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MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Upper Case Replacement

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  1. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Upper Case Replacement, Lower Case: passo 1, immagine 1 di 1
    • Remove the following ten screws securing the lower case to the upper case:

    • Three 13.5 mm (14.1 mm) Phillips screws.

    • Seven 3 mm Phillips screws.

    • When removing these screws, note how they come out at a slight angle. They must be reinstalled the same way.

    Step 1 (technically step 9 - replacing the base plate) Apparently one of my screws was a micron or two smaller than the others. This screw belongs to the hole above the optical drive, which is also apparently a couple of microns smaller than the others. It took seven attempts to figure which screw had originally been in that hole; all the other screws were too large, but fitted perfectly everywhere else.

    Bizarre much?

    Will - Replica

    It might be a matter of how the screws are driven in, and not that they're slightly different sizes. When I reassembled my MacBook, a couple of the screws, including the one over the optical drive you mention, were hard to drive in and jutted up a little bit instead of sitting entirely flush. Swapping screws didn't help. The solution was to unscrew them and drive them in at a bit of an angle - perpendicular to the slightly curved surface of the back plate where the screw holes were, instead of fully vertical with respect to the ground the Macbook is sitting on. Doing it that way, the screws were easier to drive in and they all ended up flush in their holes. Didn't matter which screws they were. (I swapped a few around just to check after reading this.)

    Andrew Janke -

    I had no such screw issues. Either there are differences in manufacturing lots or I just got incredibly lucky during reassembly!

    xtophr -

    I discovered a great way of organizing the screws. I used an ice cube tray and added the screws in order, keeping the different kinds together. So when it came to reversing the steps, the screw order was an added control step to returning everything in its place.

    leonie - Replica

    Great advise! Love it! :)

    Ririds -

    I used to do that and that worked really great until I bumped it by accident and the entire tray went on the rug! I spent the next day sorting things out.

    Now I use these:

    http://www.sciplus.com/p/50-114-CLEAR-PL...

    The lower ones 50 to a package. I mark them w/ blue tape. Often if it's part like the fans, or the optical drive I'll tape the screws into/near the holes where they belong. I did this a lot especially w/ the bottom screws from MBPs until I'd done so many I knew exactly where the longer ones went.

    Richard Sato -

    I wrapped the screws in a piece of blue masking tape and wrote the number on the little pouch I made. Then I stuck the blue tape pouches on the underside of the case bottom in order.

    Roscoe -

    I take double-sided tape, put that on a piece of paper, stick the crews to that, and label them.

    jelimoore -

    Best I've found is a bead sorting tray. They're like $5 at Wal-Mart and they have a lid that seals up and won't let them jump between containers.

    maccentric -

    I take a sheet of paper, pierce the screws through the paper, take a pen and box the screws and write out what step they belong to.

    Nils -

    @Will, in my case I had the same result as you did. As a reminder to myself the next time I need to open the computer, I put a dot of white paint on those two screw's head and a very, very thin ring of white on the very edge of each hole, that way I'll know they go into those two holes.

    Roger - Replica

    Actually the four screws on the bottom were not threaded all the way up. I didn't check to see if the thread gauge was the same on them, but it wasn't until I had about four screws out (I didn't take them out in the order that the bottom all came out first) that I noticed a difference. I then took out the rest of the bottom ones to see if they matched the two that were already out that weren't threaded to the top. They did. So I went under the assumption that those were all bottom screws and when I put it back together everything went fine with no resistance.

    So there are three types of screws: Four for the bottom, three long ones as indicated and three others that might be slightly smaller than the bottom ones.

    wresnick - Replica

    Hi,

    Although its more than a year since your contribution, I thought you might be amused to know that it is not just that the screws go in more easily when at an angle, Apple actually drilled and tapped the holes at a 15% angle. I too had tried to drive them in straight. An Apple "genius" - I was in for something else - clarified the design for me. It was done so that the screws lay flush on the angled part of the lower case. Nice design, but since Apple encourages DIY memory and drive changes, they could have mentioned this little ... trap.

    H Stahl -

    MacBookPro8,2

    Intel Core i7, 2,2 GHz, RAM 16 GB

    Mountain Lion

    May someone help me?

    I have installed the second drive with ssd 840 evo, but when I try to copy the file from the new drive to the main hd this in not allowed (errore -36)

    Piero - Replica

    To my knowledge you can't transfer a single file more than 4gb. I advise compressing to a bunch of rars to split the file size and moving them individually

    1982sketcher -

    Hey everyone, here's the very best way to PERFECTLY organize your screws AND keep track of the order of the procedure: Get a piece of plain corrugated cardboard and a pen (I like using a Sharpie). For EACH step of the disassembly, draw a simple diagram of the layout of the computer on the piece of cardboard, with dots or Xs where the screws are located. Right after you remove each screw from the computer, poke a hole in the cardboard in its corresponding diagram position with your screwdriver and place the screw in that hole. If there are other non-screw related parts to be removed, you can add notes below each step diagram to remind you of where they go or how they should be placed. This cardboard method is great not only because your screws will not go flying or get mixed up by accident if bumped, but each screw goes EXACTLY back where it came from and you can keep the cardboard as a template for future use if necessary!

    - zerø K

    zeroK - Replica

    These instructions worked great for me. I ordered a replacement battery from Key Power (on Amazon) for my 15" Macbook Pro (mid-2010). Cost was $74 shipped.

    Battery came with 3 different screwdrivers to help with installation. I just needed the one size though, since my 2010 seemed to use all the same size screws.

    Thanks!

    Marcos - Replica

    During re-assembling (put the screws back in), it is important to note that the 3mm threaded holes are not completely vertical, but bent a little bit such that the hole direction is rectangular to the tapered surface. The force of the screwdriver must point towards the direction of the hole. Otherwise the screw gets jammed

    kusi - Replica

    There is a FOOLPROOF WAY TO ORGANIZE ALL SCREWS and other parts removed.

    Print the repair guide.

    Yes, the actual photo of the bottom of the laptop with the circles around the screws.

    When you remove the screw, tape it to the photograph.

    You will tape the screw to the exact location that you just removed it from.

    Same thing with any part you remove.

    splashzoneent - Replica

    Thanks Splash!!! I used your suggested method, and it was perfect: kept all my screws, and i was able to, very easily, put them back in their correct place. I greatly appreciated your feedback. Thank you for sharing!!

    Tommy Kedar -

    Thank you!!! This worked fabulously - even the I.T. people at my workplace were excited as they never thought to do that before. Replacing the battery took about 10 minutes!

    nclarke36 -

    Worked like a charm! Took less than 20 minutes.

    It's Oct. 2015, and the fan cost me about $10. it was the same brand/model...

    SUNON MG62090V1-Q020-S99 .

    SOME TRICKS -

    1- no T6 screwdriver- was careful using needle nose players to loosen 2 screws protruding up, then use a small phillips to push real hard into the T6 slots, SLOWLY turn , also used a small flat head screwdriver (for eye glass repair) was able to grab thread on T6's, made a small mark with screw driver across the top so I could see when it started to turn.

    2- no spudger -made one; cut a little strip 1/2" x 1 1/2" of plastic. couldn't get it to slide under plug, there's an edge where plug fits. so lifted old fan out, pulled upward on the plug it popped right out with very little effort. I used my home made spudger to push the new plug into place.

    3- download free "Macs Fan Control" This is how I was alerted to the fan not working in the first place. Program shows temperature of all key components in the computer.

    cheers- Durango CO!

    Dgodrummer - Replica

    Watch the video first, read the entire tutorial and all the comments before you start, and spread a white towel on the floor so you can find screws when you drop them. Watch this first -- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qiBxhA29e...

    kevicoll409 - Replica

    The link above is no longer available.

    Kristina Graham -

    I will be buying a battery from you and using your instructions. I just installed a new CD/DVD using your instructions and 1) I feel like I owe you something and 2) Although more expensive, I have the confidence your battery will work. My current battery is the original with 1399 cycles in 7.2 yrs. A tech buddy had bought me a replacement and I installed it. I had just installed a new OS and the kernel_task went going nuts, using 90% of the CPU. Hours on the phone with Apple did not resolve the issue. On a whim, I put the old battery back in and Voila! But I cannot risk my battery swelling and going south on me. I am also going to buy your installation tools. Yeah, I already have them. But you can never have enough tools…or beer. And you don’t sell beer.

    Pete Banks - Replica

    The instructions say that I am removing PH00 screws. I found that my MBP, mid ‘12, Retina has pentalobe screws instead!

    jsandersonq - Replica

    This laptop definitely originally shipped with Phillips screws—but, Apple has been known to replace Phillips screws with pentalobes when one of their devices is brought in for service. Sorry for the rude surprise! Fortunately the correct driver is easy to find nowadays. [Blatant self-promotion alert!] If you support free repair manuals, consider picking one up from iFixit. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Me, too, and it’s plausible that this machine has been serviced by Apple in the past, replacing the screws as Jeff Suovanen suggests.

    iFixit shipped a pentalobe bit with the kit, but it’s too large for the actual screws, so it looks like I now need to get another bit. But what size?

    Jeff’s link is to a driver with a P5 bit, and that page links to a P2 screwdriver, but since I don’t know what size I actually need (and I don’t have a micrometer to hand) I’m reluctant to buy two on spec.

    Norman Gray -

    (The bit in the kit appears to be a P6, so I’m inclined to order a P5 and see what happens)

    Norman Gray -

    You’re using the wrong repair guide. This guide is for the 2012 NON-Retina MBP. You have a Retina MBP. The stock case screws in the 2012 NON-Retina are all Phillips, just as the guide says.

    Steven Wymor -

    To keep track of screws, I used the suggestions above by taping a photo of the lower case to a piece of corrugated cardboard and inserting/taping the screws in place. Also, as some have noted, the screws go back in at a slight angle; they are angled toward the center of the unit.

    Kristina Graham - Replica

    If your vision, like mine, is getting too fuzzy to be able to distinguish between a tiny Phillips screwdriver and a tiny Tri screwdriver, there’s an easy way. With a Phillips (or a Pozidrive) you can get two opposite wings to reflect the light from a lamp or window straight towards your eye at the same time. With a Tri (or Penta) you can only get one wing to reflect at a time, however much you twiddle it.

    Alan Waller - Replica

    There’s a very easy way to avoid cross-threading a screw thread, any size.

    Put the screw into its hole and start by turning it gently, slowly BACKWARDS. When you hear a little “Click!” sound, the male thread has just passed the opening in the female thread and is in exactly the right position to enter into it correctly when you start to turn in the correct forward direction.

    Remember, all drivers except hex (Allen key) and TorX need pressure to avoid slipping out and damaging the head. So even when you want to turn it in with LOW moment/torque, keep the CONTACT PRESSURE high.

    Alan Waller - Replica

    The keep the pressure on is on point. In my case once I loosened my first screw I thought I could relief my initial pressure. It was a mistake. I was doing the whole thing very slowly as a precaution. That helped me notice that the Phillips screw driver was sliding up out of the screw head. Not being sure why, I put pressure back on the screw driver until almost all the screw was out of the hole. Once out, I examined closely to find out that the threads have some sort of coating. It looks to me like some kind of locktite. Then I understood the importance of keeping the pressure on all the way through. It made me uneasy having to keep so much pressure on such tiny screws, but I found it was the only way to prevent damage to the “slots” on the heads. Anyway, all of them suffered some degree of damage, but I was able to successfully remove them and reinstall all of them back in their original holes.

    Martin Mejia -

    After reading this page on iFixit several times, I just could not face all the work of replacing the Logic Boards on two MacBookPro 2011s even if I was prepared to pay approx 400 USD (which I wasn’t). Then I read the reviews of a couple of folks who’d stripped down their machines and put their logic boards in the oven and, it worked! I wondered, if I just used my new Steinel Hot Air Tool (heat gun in my language) recently delivered from iFixit, on the logic board in-situ, without removing it? So I removed the battery, hard drive, and RAM and unplugged all the leads I could see WITHOUT removing anything else physically. Then using the 500 degrees set on the gun (setting 2) I ‘played’ the gun over the logic board for about 60 seconds on machine one with the restart problem (plus latterly, not completing start-up). Long story short… it worked! I spent a long time getting the s/w to load, but the commentary is too short to let me relate that part… ping me if I can help you do the same! blackaye@gmail.com

    Ian Black - Replica

  2. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 2, immagine 1 di 1
    • Using both hands, lift the lower case near the vent to pop it off two clips securing it to the upper case.

    • Remove the lower case and set it aside.

    What is the maximum amount of RAM that can be installed in this MacBook?

    michael - Replica

    16 GB is the max

    Bradon Kelley -

    I can’t get the back panel off !! Removed all 10 screws but the panel is still on. Not a quick easy lift like in the picture of videos on youtube what going on…are the hidden screws locking tabs?

    Tachyon - Replica

    Solved the tabs were hard to get off to the point I thought I was going to bend the back case off before it would let go.

    Tachyon - Replica

  3. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Upper Case Replacement, Battery: passo 3, immagine 1 di 1
    • Remove the two 7.4 mm Tri-point screws securing the battery to the upper case.

    • Note: For certain repairs (e.g. hard drive), removing the battery is not necessary but it prevents any accidental shorting of electronics on the motherboard. If you do not remove the battery, please be careful as parts of the motherboard might be electrified.

    • You do not necessarily have to follow steps 3-6 to remove the battery in order to replace the hard drive. However it is recommended to remove all power sources from electronics before working on them.

    A 1/16th flathead screwdriver easily removes the tri-wing screws in this step. I could not find a Y0 Tri-wing driver at any local stores.

    Jon Daniels - Replica

    I'd like to add that for me, a 1/16th flathead screwdriver did NOT allow me to remove the tri-wing screws holding the battery in place. After several careful attempts, it became obvious I was perilously close to stripping the screw(s), so I abandoned the attempt to unscrew the tri-wing screws with a flathead screwdriver altogether. As it turned out, I didn't need to remove the battery to do what I needed to do (keyboard replacement), but it would have been a whole lot easier had the battery been easily removable.

    dave - Replica

    The Tri-wing screw driver is impossible to find in retail, amazon and ebay are great bets but they vary wildly in quality... I ordered two, and both were so cheap, and barely got the job done. It could be worth getting it here. When you do get it, make sure you push, the Y0 screws were very tight in my macbook, pressing hard prevents you from stripping the Y screw.

    Abe - Replica

    I believe they are Y1 screws, no?

    Mark -

    What worked for me was actually a set of needlenose pliers - the heads on those screws aren't flush, they actually stick out enough that it's possible to turn them from the outside. Caused some scuff marks on the finish of the screws but it's not like anyone's going to see them anyway!

    oboewan42 - Replica

    A tri-wing screwdriver sold as 'for Nintendo Wii' marked 'HFA 360/ x50' did the job. I replaced the screws with standard-head M2x6mm metric screws (M2 = 2 mm thread, 6 mm length of threaded part). Exactly, I took them out of an old hard-disk (with torx head and slightly shorter).

    akronymus - Replica

    I had a cheap Tri-wing screw driver. The one that comes with the “Newertech“ battery. It did not make the job and it rather damaged the screws. Panic! I decided to buy the screwdriver sold by ifixit, the German one, not the other. At any point did I want more surprises. Yes it’s pretty expensive, but equally useful even with the screws already damaged. Thanks guys!

    Raul Roman - Replica

  4. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 4, immagine 1 di 1
    • Use the tip of your finger to carefully peel back the corner of the warning label to reveal a hidden Tri-point screw.

    • Remove the last 7.4 mm Tri-point screw securing the battery to the upper case.

    Is removing the battery necessary?

    bname - Replica

    It is not strictly necessary. As mentioned above, removing the battery is the only way to be sure that no parts of the logic board are electrified. It is very easy to replace the hard drive without removing the battery, but it is safer to remove the battery first.

    Daniel Brauer -

    Note: removing the battery can cause a hitch with OS X 10.9 Mavericks installation to a blank drive, or at least it did for me.

    Disconnecting the battery makes the hardware clock reset to something like Jan 1, 2000. This causes the Mavericks installer to fail its self-check with the error message: "This copy of the Install OS X Mavericks application can't be verified. It may have been corrupted or tampered with during downloading."

    To fix this, you need to open up Terminal from the Utilities menu in the bootable OS X installer environment and use the `date` command to set your Mac's clock back to the correct time before proceeding with the "Install OS X" menu selection, as described here: http://blog.mconserv.net/2013/10/install...

    Andrew Janke - Replica

    Thanks for that warning, Andrew.

    Max Fenton -

    Happened here too, thanks for the tip!

    Franco Bianchi -

    As a note, my Mid-2010 Unibody Macbook did not have this third screw, just two to remove the battery.

    Max Fenton - Replica

    Can anyone answer this question. I cannot afford the entire 80 dollar repair kit listed here and the tools needed only list a spunger t6 and a phillips...it appears from some of these comments there are more drivers needed. I am afraid to do this anyway but not having the right tools off the bat will just make things more difficult while waiting for an order to come in...can someone list the exact tools I would need ? Any help would be appreciated...I am ready to order this but want to put in one order....ifixit, can you clear this up perhaps ?

    laurie - Replica

    One of the most important tool you should get is the head strap magnifier with lighting, it will make your viewing and capable ability much more confident.

    James -

    Taking the battery out is the easiest part once you have the Tri-Wing screwdriver

    Tri-point Y1 Screwdriver

    Tao - Replica

    And yes, taking the battery out does naturally make the hardware clock reset.... It's easily fixed. See Andrew Janke's comment above.

    It's a small hassle, compared to needing to possibly replace your logic board because a surge from your battery fried it.

    Tao - Replica

    Ne trouvant pas de tournevis Y1, j'ai utilisé avec succès une pince électrique à bouts fins pour déserrer la vis puis j'ai terminé avec un tournevis plat très fin (1.5x35)

    Ivan Keller - Replica

    I stripped the Y screw! Arghhhh. Any help ideas?

    erinandjoy - Replica

    new battery drains at the rate of about 10% a minute. i may have received a faulty one but i wouldn't have bought it if i knew what i know now.

    aozoren - Replica

    Is this a battery from iFixit?

    Scott Dingle -

  5. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 5, immagine 1 di 2 MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 5, immagine 2 di 2
    • Lift the battery by its plastic pull tab and slide it away from the long edge of the upper case.

    • Do not try to completely remove the battery just yet.

  6. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 6, immagine 1 di 1
    • Tilt the battery away from the logic board enough to access the battery cable connector.

    • Pull the battery cable connector away from its socket on the logic board and remove the battery from the upper case.

    • Pull the battery cable connector away from the center of the logic board.

    • If you're installing a new battery, you should calibrate it after installation:

    • Charge it to 100%, and then keep charging it for at least 2 more hours. Next, unplug and use it normally to drain the battery. When you see the low battery warning, save your work, and keep your laptop on until it goes to sleep due to low battery. Wait at least 5 hours, then charge your laptop uninterrupted to 100%.

    • If you notice any unusual behavior or problems after installing your new battery, you may need to reset your MacBook's SMC.

    I'm having the same problem as previous commenters: the battery now drains much faster. It's the original factory unit—I only replaced the HD, which is working great.

    Is there something I am missing with the battery reconnection? Maybe it's loose?

    I just want to make sure before I crack open my laptop again.

    cmalec722 - Replica

    Fast battery drain problems might be due to a corrupted power manager circuit on the logic board. To reset it, remove the battery, press the power button for about 5-10 seconds, then reinstall the battery. I know the problem might have been partly due to removing the battery in the first place, but this is the procedure for resetting what might have gone wrong. It might also help to do a PRAM reset, by holding down Command-Option-P-R at power (not just from a restart), and let the Macbook chime twice after its initial powerup chime.

    johnsawyercjs -

    The spudger works well for detaching the connector.

    skat1140 - Replica

    I’ve done a few of these and it should be noted this connector is a very firm fit. Using the flat end of the spudger to pry alternately at the protruding sides can be helpful.

    py - Replica

    Buen tutorial, solo advertir una cosa: los tornillos de la batería (Tri-point), en mi caso estaban muy duros.. atención si se usan destornilladores baratos.. mucho cuidado porque puedes dejar el tornillo imposible de extraer..

    fserranolv - Replica

  7. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Upper Case Replacement, Left Fan: passo 7, immagine 1 di 1
    • Remove the three 3.4 mm T6 Torx screws securing the left fan to the logic board.

    • In some models, these T6 Torx screws may be 3.1 mm long.

    Je vais juste vous surprendre car je suis français.

    JI'll just surprise you because I am French .

    I understood the problem of the left fan. In fact the problem is with the design at Apple. The fan housing is too narrow vertically a few tenths of millimeters. This is why so many problems . The left fans deteriorate very quickly.

    The solution is very simple. Buy a new fan in China, it is the cheapest and level it's very fast delivery . Warning it comes fan already used but in good condition.

    The thing to do is to over- raise the fan does not rub and deteriorating. To do so just buy a zinc washer 3 mm diameter available from my local hardware store ( € 3 for 70 pieces ) and place it under the black screw fully right and top right . The over- elevation leads to no longer have friction effect.

    Thats ALL !!!

    olivierbartoli - Replica

    on my screwdriver set, the T6 screw driver felt wobbly. It felt like I would strip the screw if not careful. So I used a T7 screw driver, and it was much more snug.

    Bryan Chun - Replica

    Same here. T6 did not fit at all. Too small.

    Bummer. Will have to screw my MBP back together and get a T7 on Monday…

    Oliver Nielsen - Replica

  8. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 8, immagine 1 di 3 MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 8, immagine 2 di 3 MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 8, immagine 3 di 3
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the left fan connector from the logic board.

    • It is useful to twist the spudger axially from beneath the fan cable wires to release the connector.

    • The fan socket and the fan connector can be seen in the second and third pictures. Be careful not to break the plastic fan socket off the logic board as you use your spudger to lift the fan connector straight up and out of its socket. The layout of the logic board shown in the second picture may look slightly different than your machine but the fan socket is the same.

    I successfully removed my right fan, cleaned it and installed it back. But when it came to the left one I accidentally broke the connector from the logic board. Now I'm left with only one functioning fan. I'm using an external laptop fan. Do I have to replace the whole logic board or can it be fixed somehow? My temp is between 90-95 C when I run a heavy game.

    khalid alodan - Replica

    I made the same mistake! Did you solve it?

    Rosario - Replica

    In case anyone else accidentally breaks a fan connector, check the comment on step #14. It is basically the same connection, so that should work here.

    Relevant part of comment - “To replace it, I removed the socket, held it in place against the solder pads and ran a 750degF soldering iron across the pads. It's definitely reattached it, I'm not sure how good the electrical contacts are yet.”

    John - Replica

  9. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 9, immagine 1 di 1
    • Lift the left fan out of the upper case.

    If you’re just looking to remove fluff that can block the fan outlets, you don’t need to disconnect fan power connector from the logic board header (Step 6) - the fans on my MacBook Pro kept spinning up to max speed (6200rpm) so I removed the three T6 Torx screws (Step 5) and carefully lifted the fan to oneside removed the fluff with a toothpick and replaced the fan and screws — repeated this for both left and right fans

    Kev Salmon - Replica

  10. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Upper Case Replacement, Logic Board: passo 10, immagine 1 di 1
    • Remove the three T6 Torx screws securing the right fan to the upper case.

    on my screwdriver set, the T6 screw driver felt wobbly. It felt like I would strip the screw if not careful. So I used a T7 screw driver, and it was much more snug.

    Bryan Chun - Replica

    Same here. T6 did not fit at all. Too small.

    Bummer. Will have to screw my MBP back together and get a T7 on Monday…

    Oliver Nielsen - Replica

  11. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 11, immagine 1 di 2 MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 11, immagine 2 di 2
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the right fan connector up out of its socket on the logic board.

    • It is useful to twist the spudger axially from beneath the fan cable wires to release the connector.

    • Remove the right fan from the upper case.

    There is no way to reconnect the fan cable. It looks like it was soldered onto the logic board. I disconnected it and can't reconnect it.

    Has this happened to anyone else.

    Vicki - Replica

    Vicki, you tore the connector off the board. They can be re-soldered if you are very careful/skilled with a soldering iron, but that is not something that you should try to do if you haven't soldered SMD components before.

    rcoleskelton - Replica

  12. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 12, immagine 1 di 1
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the AirPort / Bluetooth ribbon cable up off its socket on the logic board.

    • Fold the AirPort / Bluetooth ribbon cable back to keep it out of the way of the logic board.

  13. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 13, immagine 1 di 1
    • Disconnect the iSight cable by pulling its connector toward the optical drive opening.

    I was afraid to pull too hard, but wiggling it worked! :)

    Mark - Replica

    This is NOT good advice, ifixit! You should never pull a cable but rather pull or push its connector. In this case, it went well for me the first time, but the second time I pulled the cable out of its connector and now my iSight camera is not working anymore. Thanks, ifixit. Not!

    Rather, use plastic (so you don’t short-circuit anything) tweezers or two tooth-picks or so and push the connector out of its socket.

    That’s actually who it’s described in Apples repair manual for this device that — I think — I also found on this webpage somewhere.

    So: PUSH, don’t pull!

    Colonel Task - Replica

  14. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 14, immagine 1 di 1
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the optical drive cable connector up from the logic board.

    • Fold the optical drive cable back to keep it out of the way of the logic board.

    hello i just installed a brand new logic board in my mac, in my mac i have replaced the cd drive with an second ssd - but when i turn the mac on, the OS cant find the second ssd, the cable is in (it clicks in) - does anybody know how to fix this or ?

    Best regards Mathias

    mathiastondering - Replica

  15. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 15, immagine 1 di 1
    • Carefully pull the subwoofer/right speaker cable up to lift its connector out of its socket on the logic board.

    Same problem as with step 11. I pried up the connector as shown and can't reconnect it. It looks like it may have been soldered to the logic board. How can this be fixed?

    Vicki - Replica

    The only problem that I face on substituting the top case was when I tried to connect the subwoofer connector to the socket on the logic board. I did some tentatives but on the last the socket on the logic board I suppose unsoldered. Some suggestions?

    Thanks

    Paolo Sperati

    paolosperati63 - Replica

    I did step 16 (disconnecting the hard drive cable) first and then came back to this step - worked for me

    Colin White - Replica

    This connector is just like the ones used for the fans (but has a cushion-like protection over it). Just take it apart just like in steps 8 and 11.

    Andres Lartitegui - Replica

  16. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 16, immagine 1 di 1
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the hard drive cable connector up out of its socket on the logic board.

  17. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 17, immagine 1 di 2 MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 17, immagine 2 di 2
    • Remove the two short Phillips screws securing the small EMI shield to the logic board.

    • Remove the EMI shield from the logic board.

    Mine was stuck to the Keyboard Ribbon Cable; needed an extra pull, but it's safe and should come off - it's not attached to anything. :)

    Mark - Replica

  18. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 18, immagine 1 di 1
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the trackpad cable connector up out of its socket on the logic board.

  19. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 19, immagine 1 di 2 MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 19, immagine 2 di 2
    • Use your fingernail to carefully flip up the keyboard ribbon cable retaining flap.

    • Make sure you are flipping up the retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Use the tip of a spudger to pull the keyboard ribbon cable straight out of its socket.

    How will I know I have inserted the keyboard ribbon successfully? After installing a new upper case I can't seem to get the keyboard ribbon to stay in its socket. Or does the EMI sheild hold it in place?

    Cem Catikkas - Replica

    Ditto. It seems very tricky to reinsert the keyboard ribbon.

    GrooveStomp - Replica

    I just did this - it is kinda tricky. The ribbon cable has a flap on top that is designed solely to help you coax the cable back into the socket....don't make the mistake I did and spend an hour trying to feed this flap through the socket. What worked for me was a combination of using the flap with my fingers and tweezers on the actual cable to reinsert it into the socket. Took a few tries, but I got the cable re-inserted, pressed down on the tiny locking thing, and the keyboard cable was in and secured.

    dave - Replica

    Indeed, it is difficult to insert the keyboard ribbon cable. It will stop after about 1mm of insertion. It needs to go in quite a bit further. Angling it slightly, you may be able to get a corner to go in, then straighten the ribbon while applying forward pressure. I reassembled it a few times with that sinking feeling on startup before I realized that it wasn't really making contact!

    dennishodge - Replica

    I've replaced the keyboard, so reinserting the ribbon was particularly tricky. After several failed attempts, here's what finally dawned on me... I took a piece of scotch tape, maybe an inch long. I folded on end on itself, maybe a quarter inch from the top. That left a sticky zone and a non-sticky zone on the tape. I taped it to the ribbon, and was able to use the tape and a "handle" to pull the ribbon into the socket. Afterwards, I carefully removed the tape without pulling the ribbon out of the socket.

    Bryan Chun - Replica

    This was the hardest part for me. Be sure you flip the release flap up before removing or re-inserting.

    Jonathan Daiello - Replica

    This might be obvious to some, but for those for whom it is not, this info is very important. First: only the ribbon is what needs to be pulled out (and inserted later on) not any of the black plastic casing. Second: before you try to pull the ribbon out, you need to flip up the release flap so its vertical (this is the thin black part that is located on the top edge of the black casing). If you don’t do this you will damage the casing or the ribbon or both.

    Greg - Replica

    Vraiment dommage que ce point de blocage très sensible ne soit pas plus développer, il peut compromettre tout le travail et l’état de la machine, c’est la grosse erreur de ce tuto.

    Pour l’instant, je ne suis pas parvenu à retirer ce connecteur et je crains que l’impatience me fasse commettre une erreur irréparable.

    pc-design - Replica

    the flap mentionned is the plastic part the most far to the ribbon, not the part where the finger seem to be pulling. The flap comes off easily.

    Paraita Wohler - Replica

  20. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 20, immagine 1 di 1
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the battery indicator cable connector up out of its socket on the logic board.

    Can anyone tell me what the little gold-colored button or switch is on the left side of the cab let connector?

    michael crawford - Replica

    On mine, the plastic tab was almost completely hidden under some fabric-like tape on top of connector.

    Make sure to grab only the glossy plastic tab and pull it up, which rotates upward a metal hinge on the removable part of the connector. That metal hinge is then used as a handle to pull the connector straight out (flat) toward MagSafe.

    I didn’t see the plastic tab, and first pulled up the tape. That caused the metal hinge to pop off. Upon close inspection, it was easy to see where the hinge attached at each end to the top assembly. whew!

    prreitz - Replica

  21. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 21, immagine 1 di 3 MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 21, immagine 2 di 3 MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 21, immagine 3 di 3
    • Grab the plastic pull tab secured to the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the DC-In side of the computer.

    • Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket.

    • Do not pull the cable upward, as the socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board toward the corner of the upper case.

    One of the chips in this image was covered in glue. when I flipped the data cable clip, the glue plus encased chip popped right off the board. Does anyone know what chip this is? Without it, my Mac plays the startup chime, but the screen is black. The backlight is on, but it just displays black.

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/befonnaz125fn9...

    Jon - Replica

    I did the exact same thing. I still have the tiny chip. Is there a way to glue it back on or will I need a new logic board now?

    Louis Adams - Replica

    There's a bracket / handle clip attached to the display port. I didn't know it was there and accidentally bent it off. Can't get it back on, but it seems to work OK without it.

    Bryan Chun - Replica

    The pull tab has a small rectangular frame. I used this to gently pull out the plug with both hands, rather than pulling on the cable like in the photo. This worked well.

    Bryan Kring - Replica

  22. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 22, immagine 1 di 2 MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 22, immagine 2 di 2
    • Use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard backlight ribbon cable socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Pull the keyboard ribbon cable straight out of its socket.

    I couldn’t see the flap as mine was already popped up. Try looking at it from the side to get a better view of the state of yours.

    Cyrille - Replica

    broke it! be really careful

    zoharargaman - Replica

    I did too. The whole connector actually popped off the board. Were you able to fix yours?

    Dylan -

    I posted a question on this as well. I have an Early 2013 Macbook Retina, and I accidentally popped off the flex cable connectors to the fans. From doing some research, it seems like you can solder it back on but I have no experience in that. Would anyone know where to start, and where to get the tools?

    Tif - Replica

  23. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 23, immagine 1 di 1
    • Remove the following screws:

    • Seven 3.3 mm T6 Torx screws securing the logic board to the upper case.

    • Two 8 mm T6 Torx screws securing the DC-In board to the upper case.

    • Do not remove the logic board yet! There are components on the underside of the logic board attached to the the upper case that must first be disconnected.

  24. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 24, immagine 1 di 1
    • Carefully lift the logic board assembly from the left side and work it out of the upper case, minding the port side that may get caught during removal.

    • Do not entirely remove the logic board yet!

    I just took one apart that had some pretty strong adhesive holding the speaker onto the upper case. I had to slip a spudger underneath and pry it up, else it was going to overly bend the mobo before it would release.

    jkamis - Replica

    My board was stuck to the bottom plastic. I had to gently release it by pushing the black plastic beneath the board down, while carefully moving the board upward.

    Jonathan Daiello - Replica

  25. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 25, immagine 1 di 1
    • Lift the logic board enough to gain clearance and use a spudger to pry the microphone up off the upper case.

    On this step, the microphone was attached to the board so the whole unit lifted off easily.

    seandodd - Replica

    Mine was too; it was part of the speaker assembly, a much better arrangement.

    maccentric -

    me too on model number A1286

    mid 2009

    15 inch

    Balloon Wrangler - Replica

    I have a Mid 2010 15 inch and had one more connection in the corner that needed to be removed, so be careful!!

    Scott Hopper - Replica

  26. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 26, immagine 1 di 1
    • Slide the logic board away from the port openings and lift the assembly out of the upper case.

    • Before reinstalling the logic board, it is easiest to press the microphone down into its housing in the left speaker to keep it in place.

    • To avoid ESD damage, be sure to lay your logic board on a soft, static free surface during service.

    After prying off the mic from the top case and carefully lifting the logic board, I realized there was still a wire connected near the display connector, under the board. I was able to disconnect it but I'm wondering if I missed something or if this cable is missing from the instructions. The wire was connected under the board so it could not be disconnected before removing the board.

    Laurent Daudelin - Replica

    This is the magsafe cable. Step 23 details removing the torx screws holding the magsafe board in place. If you remove the screws, you don't need to remove the cable.

    supersuade - Replica

  27. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Upper Case Replacement, Upper Case: passo 27, immagine 1 di 2 MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Upper Case Replacement, Upper Case: passo 27, immagine 2 di 2
    • Remove the two Phillips screws securing the hard drive bracket to the upper case.

    • These screws are captive in the hard drive bracket.

    • Remove the hard drive bracket from the upper case.

  28. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 28, immagine 1 di 1
    • Using its attached pull tab, lift the hard drive out of the upper case.

    • Don't try to completely remove it yet, as it is still connected to the hard drive cable.

  29. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 29, immagine 1 di 2 MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 29, immagine 2 di 2
    • Pull the hard drive connector out of its socket on the hard drive.

    • Pull on the connector, not the cable itself.

    • Remove the hard drive and set it aside.

  30. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 30, immagine 1 di 1
    • Remove the following four screws securing the hard drive/IR sensor cable to the upper case:

    • Two 2.5 mm Phillips screws.

    • Two 10 mm Phillips screws.

  31. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 31, immagine 1 di 2 MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 31, immagine 2 di 2
    • Carefully peel the IR sensor cable off the adhesive securing it to the upper case.

    • Pull the hard drive bracket/IR sensor housing away from the side of the upper case.

    • Remove the hard drive/IR sensor cable from the upper case.

  32. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 32, immagine 1 di 1
    • Use the tip of a spudger to pry all three AirPort/Bluetooth antenna connectors up off the AirPort/Bluetooth board.

  33. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 33, immagine 1 di 2 MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 33, immagine 2 di 2
    • De-route the three antenna cables from their channels in the AirPort/Bluetooth housing.

    • De-route the camera cable from its channel in the AirPort/Bluetooth housing.

  34. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 34, immagine 1 di 2 MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 34, immagine 2 di 2
    • Remove the following two screws securing the AirPort/Bluetooth housing to the upper case:

    • One 3.8 mm Phillips

    • One 8.6 mm Phillips

    • Remove the AirPort/Bluetooth assembly from the upper case, minding any cables that may get caught.

    I switched the colors denoting the 2 screws in this step. I can't speak for anyone else's, but in my MacBook Pro the screw on the left in the picture was twice as long as the screw pictured on the right. However, I guess I don't really understand editing on the site because my changes do not show up in the history or the document.

    Robert Ciaccio - Replica

    Good catch! You didn't see your edits before because they do not take effect until an admin goes through and approves them to ensure the accuracy of the edit.

    Andrew Bookholt -

    Cool, thanks! Glad to help :)

    Robert Ciaccio - Replica

    What can I do when the 3.8 screw is stuck? Any special trick to get it out?

    James Cauwelier - Replica

  35. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 35, immagine 1 di 2 MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 35, immagine 2 di 2
    • Remove the following three Phillips screws securing the optical drive to the upper case:

    • One 4.5 mm Phillips screw securing the optical drive bracket to the upper case near the fan.

    • Two 2.5 mm Phillips screws securing the optical drive to the upper case near the optical drive opening.

    • In some cases, all three may be 2.5mm screws.

    • Remove the optical drive from the upper case.

  36. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 36, immagine 1 di 2 MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 36, immagine 2 di 2
    • Remove the following six screws securing the subwoofer and right speaker to the upper case:

    • Two 3.2 mm Phillips screws.

    • Two 12.3 mm Phillips screws.

    • One 2.5 mm Phillips screw.

    • One 8.3 mm Phillips screw.

    • Remove the subwoofer/right speaker from the upper case.

  37. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 37, immagine 1 di 2 MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 37, immagine 2 di 2
    • Remove the 8.6 mm Phillips screw securing the antenna/camera cable retainer to the upper case.

    • Remove the antenna/camera cable retainer from the upper case.

  38. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 38, immagine 1 di 2 MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 38, immagine 2 di 2
    • Remove the single 8.6 mm Phillips screw securing the display data cable retainer to the upper case.

    • Remove the display data cable retainer from the upper case.

  39. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 39, immagine 1 di 1
    • Remove two of the three 6 mm T6 Torx screws securing the right side of the display to the upper case.

    • We purposely have you leave one screw attaching the display to the upper case to aid in future steps.

  40. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 40, immagine 1 di 1
    • Remove two of the three 6 mm T6 Torx screws securing the left side of the display to the upper case.

    • We purposely have you leave one screw attaching the display to the upper case to aid in future steps.

  41. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 41, immagine 1 di 1
    • Open your MacBook Pro so the display is perpendicular to the upper case.

    • Place your opened MacBook Pro on a table as pictured.

    • While holding the display and upper case together with your left hand, remove the remaining T6 Torx screw from the upper display bracket.

  42. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 42, immagine 1 di 1
    • Be sure to hold the display and upper case together with your left hand. Failure to do so may cause the freed display/upper case to fall, potentially damaging each component.

    • Remove the last remaining T6 Torx screw securing the display to the upper case.

  43. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 43, immagine 1 di 3 MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 43, immagine 2 di 3 MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 43, immagine 3 di 3
    • Grab the upper case with your right hand and rotate it slightly toward the top of the display so the upper display bracket clears the edge of the upper case.

    • Rotate the display slightly away from the upper case.

    • Lift the display up and away from the upper case, minding any brackets or cables that may get caught.

Conclusione

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Altre 64 persone hanno completato questa guida.

8 Commenti

In my experience, re-inserting the battery connector to the mobo is a pain with the battery in place. There is very little room to maneuver the connector and reconnect it - after several very careful attempts, I got the connector back on, but next time I'm removing the battery.

dave - Replica

Great, easy repair (at least for me).

I only had problems with a 2.5 mm phillips screw, the one holding the right speaker assembly from the side. I needed to use a drill to drill it from the center away.

So 100% success, 1 screw less.

jacopochiapparino - Replica

I am having a heck of a time reinserting this keyboard ribbon cable. The first time I powered up, only the left side of the keyboard worked. I tried reinserting, and all further attempts have resulted in no keyboard response at all. The ribbon is starting to "dogear" a tiny bit in the corners, so I am hesitant to try my current technique too many more times. I'd really like to do this correctly. Has anyone had luck slightly removing the logic board to aid in getting a better angle on inserting the cable? Any help would be appreciated!!!

rylandkoopus - Replica

A number of these steps are unnecessary to replace the upper case. For example, there is no reason why the hard drive needs to be removed. After getting to the steps where the upper display hinges are removed, I couldn't see any reason why the logic board needed removal. My advice would be to disconnect the battery. Then perform Step 21 (disconnecting the display cable). Then perform Step 32 (disconnect Airport/Bluetooth antenna cables). Then proceed to Step 37 and complete the guide from there. If you encounter any part that's in your way (perhaps the edge of the logic board might prevent the upper display case from being pulled away from the lower case), just go back through this guide and follow the directions to remove only that particular part. But just be aware that quite a few steps in this guide are not necessary, and it is certainly not true that "Replacing the upper case requires removal of nearly every component inside your MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010."

Chris Dahler - Replica

The hard drive and logic board are installed in the upper case. How could you not remove them? You'd be rebuilding your computer with the new upper case, without a logic board or keyboard. You aren't confusing the upper case for the display, are you? This guide is about replacing the top case, which is the part where the keyboard is, not the display.

John M -

The high quality hardback leather construction minimizes potential damage to your laptop from knocks and scratches, and the vintage book design disguises it, reducing the chance of theft. http://bestapplecases.com/best-macbook-p...

nuna - Replica

Fantastic guide, thanks!

I'd suggest adhesive for reaffixing the sticky strips but not sure what kind would be best, mine had just enough old glue attached to them.

There was a tiny padded mesh chunk (maybe em shielding?) stuck to the back of the keyboard that did not have enough sticky stuff left on it, I did not put this into the new case as I wasn't sure if it had been glued with conductive or nonconductive adhesive and didn't want to risk it coming loose and shorting something.

If you have the time to post re-assembly steps they would be very useful.

Thanks again.

naomijarvis - Replica

Hello there,

allow me one question. I have a C2D 2.66 SD MacBook Pro 15", Mid 2009.

a few months ago, it fell and in result the case is damaged in the corner, but it works fine! although dust accumulation is noticeable and common.

A couple of days ago, I found a business opportunity, a Mid 2010 i5 15" Macbook Pro, which seems to have all the cases in good condition. I'm thinking it could be a good opportunity to refurbish mine, by replacing all my cases with the cases from this one.

So my question is: Can I replace my Mid 2009 Macbook Cases with the ones from this Mid 2010? Although it's an i5 instead of a C2D...?

I know the batteries differ... apparently mine is 73 W h Li-Poly, the other is 77.5 W h Li-Poly...

can anyone help please?

Thank you

ChristianLoeffler - Replica

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