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Sostituzione scheda madre MacBook Pro Unibody 15" inizio 2011

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  1. Sostituzione scheda madre MacBook Pro Unibody 15"  inizio 2011, Case inferiore: passo 1, immagine 1 di 1
    • Rimuovi le dieci viti seguenti, che fissano il case inferiore a quello superiore:

    • Tre viti con testa a croce Phillips da 13,5 (14,1) mm.

    • Sette viti con testa a croce da 3 mm.

    • Nel rimuovere queste viti, nota come escono lievemente angolate. Devono essere rimesse al loro posto nello stesso modo.

    Step 1 (technically step 9 - replacing the base plate) Apparently one of my screws was a micron or two smaller than the others. This screw belongs to the hole above the optical drive, which is also apparently a couple of microns smaller than the others. It took seven attempts to figure which screw had originally been in that hole; all the other screws were too large, but fitted perfectly everywhere else.

    Bizarre much?

    Will - Replica

    It might be a matter of how the screws are driven in, and not that they're slightly different sizes. When I reassembled my MacBook, a couple of the screws, including the one over the optical drive you mention, were hard to drive in and jutted up a little bit instead of sitting entirely flush. Swapping screws didn't help. The solution was to unscrew them and drive them in at a bit of an angle - perpendicular to the slightly curved surface of the back plate where the screw holes were, instead of fully vertical with respect to the ground the Macbook is sitting on. Doing it that way, the screws were easier to drive in and they all ended up flush in their holes. Didn't matter which screws they were. (I swapped a few around just to check after reading this.)

    Andrew Janke -

    I had no such screw issues. Either there are differences in manufacturing lots or I just got incredibly lucky during reassembly!

    xtophr -

    I discovered a great way of organizing the screws. I used an ice cube tray and added the screws in order, keeping the different kinds together. So when it came to reversing the steps, the screw order was an added control step to returning everything in its place.

    leonie - Replica

    Great advise! Love it! :)

    Ririds -

    I used to do that and that worked really great until I bumped it by accident and the entire tray went on the rug! I spent the next day sorting things out.

    Now I use these:

    http://www.sciplus.com/p/50-114-CLEAR-PL...

    The lower ones 50 to a package. I mark them w/ blue tape. Often if it's part like the fans, or the optical drive I'll tape the screws into/near the holes where they belong. I did this a lot especially w/ the bottom screws from MBPs until I'd done so many I knew exactly where the longer ones went.

    Richard Sato -

    I wrapped the screws in a piece of blue masking tape and wrote the number on the little pouch I made. Then I stuck the blue tape pouches on the underside of the case bottom in order.

    Roscoe -

    I take double-sided tape, put that on a piece of paper, stick the crews to that, and label them.

    jelimoore -

    Best I've found is a bead sorting tray. They're like $5 at Wal-Mart and they have a lid that seals up and won't let them jump between containers.

    maccentric -

    I take a sheet of paper, pierce the screws through the paper, take a pen and box the screws and write out what step they belong to.

    Nils -

    @Will, in my case I had the same result as you did. As a reminder to myself the next time I need to open the computer, I put a dot of white paint on those two screw's head and a very, very thin ring of white on the very edge of each hole, that way I'll know they go into those two holes.

    Roger - Replica

    Actually the four screws on the bottom were not threaded all the way up. I didn't check to see if the thread gauge was the same on them, but it wasn't until I had about four screws out (I didn't take them out in the order that the bottom all came out first) that I noticed a difference. I then took out the rest of the bottom ones to see if they matched the two that were already out that weren't threaded to the top. They did. So I went under the assumption that those were all bottom screws and when I put it back together everything went fine with no resistance.

    So there are three types of screws: Four for the bottom, three long ones as indicated and three others that might be slightly smaller than the bottom ones.

    wresnick - Replica

    Hi,

    Although its more than a year since your contribution, I thought you might be amused to know that it is not just that the screws go in more easily when at an angle, Apple actually drilled and tapped the holes at a 15% angle. I too had tried to drive them in straight. An Apple "genius" - I was in for something else - clarified the design for me. It was done so that the screws lay flush on the angled part of the lower case. Nice design, but since Apple encourages DIY memory and drive changes, they could have mentioned this little ... trap.

    H Stahl -

    MacBookPro8,2

    Intel Core i7, 2,2 GHz, RAM 16 GB

    Mountain Lion

    May someone help me?

    I have installed the second drive with ssd 840 evo, but when I try to copy the file from the new drive to the main hd this in not allowed (errore -36)

    Piero - Replica

    To my knowledge you can't transfer a single file more than 4gb. I advise compressing to a bunch of rars to split the file size and moving them individually

    1982sketcher -

    Hey everyone, here's the very best way to PERFECTLY organize your screws AND keep track of the order of the procedure: Get a piece of plain corrugated cardboard and a pen (I like using a Sharpie). For EACH step of the disassembly, draw a simple diagram of the layout of the computer on the piece of cardboard, with dots or Xs where the screws are located. Right after you remove each screw from the computer, poke a hole in the cardboard in its corresponding diagram position with your screwdriver and place the screw in that hole. If there are other non-screw related parts to be removed, you can add notes below each step diagram to remind you of where they go or how they should be placed. This cardboard method is great not only because your screws will not go flying or get mixed up by accident if bumped, but each screw goes EXACTLY back where it came from and you can keep the cardboard as a template for future use if necessary!

    - zerø K

    zeroK - Replica

    These instructions worked great for me. I ordered a replacement battery from Key Power (on Amazon) for my 15" Macbook Pro (mid-2010). Cost was $74 shipped.

    Battery came with 3 different screwdrivers to help with installation. I just needed the one size though, since my 2010 seemed to use all the same size screws.

    Thanks!

    Marcos - Replica

    During re-assembling (put the screws back in), it is important to note that the 3mm threaded holes are not completely vertical, but bent a little bit such that the hole direction is rectangular to the tapered surface. The force of the screwdriver must point towards the direction of the hole. Otherwise the screw gets jammed

    kusi - Replica

    There is a FOOLPROOF WAY TO ORGANIZE ALL SCREWS and other parts removed.

    Print the repair guide.

    Yes, the actual photo of the bottom of the laptop with the circles around the screws.

    When you remove the screw, tape it to the photograph.

    You will tape the screw to the exact location that you just removed it from.

    Same thing with any part you remove.

    splashzoneent - Replica

    Thanks Splash!!! I used your suggested method, and it was perfect: kept all my screws, and i was able to, very easily, put them back in their correct place. I greatly appreciated your feedback. Thank you for sharing!!

    Tommy Kedar -

    Thank you!!! This worked fabulously - even the I.T. people at my workplace were excited as they never thought to do that before. Replacing the battery took about 10 minutes!

    nclarke36 -

    Worked like a charm! Took less than 20 minutes.

    It's Oct. 2015, and the fan cost me about $10. it was the same brand/model...

    SUNON MG62090V1-Q020-S99 .

    SOME TRICKS -

    1- no T6 screwdriver- was careful using needle nose players to loosen 2 screws protruding up, then use a small phillips to push real hard into the T6 slots, SLOWLY turn , also used a small flat head screwdriver (for eye glass repair) was able to grab thread on T6's, made a small mark with screw driver across the top so I could see when it started to turn.

    2- no spudger -made one; cut a little strip 1/2" x 1 1/2" of plastic. couldn't get it to slide under plug, there's an edge where plug fits. so lifted old fan out, pulled upward on the plug it popped right out with very little effort. I used my home made spudger to push the new plug into place.

    3- download free "Macs Fan Control" This is how I was alerted to the fan not working in the first place. Program shows temperature of all key components in the computer.

    cheers- Durango CO!

    Dgodrummer - Replica

    Watch the video first, read the entire tutorial and all the comments before you start, and spread a white towel on the floor so you can find screws when you drop them. Watch this first -- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qiBxhA29e...

    kevicoll409 - Replica

    The link above is no longer available.

    Kristina Graham -

    I will be buying a battery from you and using your instructions. I just installed a new CD/DVD using your instructions and 1) I feel like I owe you something and 2) Although more expensive, I have the confidence your battery will work. My current battery is the original with 1399 cycles in 7.2 yrs. A tech buddy had bought me a replacement and I installed it. I had just installed a new OS and the kernel_task went going nuts, using 90% of the CPU. Hours on the phone with Apple did not resolve the issue. On a whim, I put the old battery back in and Voila! But I cannot risk my battery swelling and going south on me. I am also going to buy your installation tools. Yeah, I already have them. But you can never have enough tools…or beer. And you don’t sell beer.

    Pete Banks - Replica

    The instructions say that I am removing PH00 screws. I found that my MBP, mid ‘12, Retina has pentalobe screws instead!

    jsandersonq - Replica

    This laptop definitely originally shipped with Phillips screws—but, Apple has been known to replace Phillips screws with pentalobes when one of their devices is brought in for service. Sorry for the rude surprise! Fortunately the correct driver is easy to find nowadays. [Blatant self-promotion alert!] If you support free repair manuals, consider picking one up from iFixit. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Me, too, and it’s plausible that this machine has been serviced by Apple in the past, replacing the screws as Jeff Suovanen suggests.

    iFixit shipped a pentalobe bit with the kit, but it’s too large for the actual screws, so it looks like I now need to get another bit. But what size?

    Jeff’s link is to a driver with a P5 bit, and that page links to a P2 screwdriver, but since I don’t know what size I actually need (and I don’t have a micrometer to hand) I’m reluctant to buy two on spec.

    Norman Gray -

    (The bit in the kit appears to be a P6, so I’m inclined to order a P5 and see what happens)

    Norman Gray -

    You’re using the wrong repair guide. This guide is for the 2012 NON-Retina MBP. You have a Retina MBP. The stock case screws in the 2012 NON-Retina are all Phillips, just as the guide says.

    Steven Wymor -

    To keep track of screws, I used the suggestions above by taping a photo of the lower case to a piece of corrugated cardboard and inserting/taping the screws in place. Also, as some have noted, the screws go back in at a slight angle; they are angled toward the center of the unit.

    Kristina Graham - Replica

    If your vision, like mine, is getting too fuzzy to be able to distinguish between a tiny Phillips screwdriver and a tiny Tri screwdriver, there’s an easy way. With a Phillips (or a Pozidrive) you can get two opposite wings to reflect the light from a lamp or window straight towards your eye at the same time. With a Tri (or Penta) you can only get one wing to reflect at a time, however much you twiddle it.

    Alan Waller - Replica

    There’s a very easy way to avoid cross-threading a screw thread, any size.

    Put the screw into its hole and start by turning it gently, slowly BACKWARDS. When you hear a little “Click!” sound, the male thread has just passed the opening in the female thread and is in exactly the right position to enter into it correctly when you start to turn in the correct forward direction.

    Remember, all drivers except hex (Allen key) and TorX need pressure to avoid slipping out and damaging the head. So even when you want to turn it in with LOW moment/torque, keep the CONTACT PRESSURE high.

    Alan Waller - Replica

    The keep the pressure on is on point. In my case once I loosened my first screw I thought I could relief my initial pressure. It was a mistake. I was doing the whole thing very slowly as a precaution. That helped me notice that the Phillips screw driver was sliding up out of the screw head. Not being sure why, I put pressure back on the screw driver until almost all the screw was out of the hole. Once out, I examined closely to find out that the threads have some sort of coating. It looks to me like some kind of locktite. Then I understood the importance of keeping the pressure on all the way through. It made me uneasy having to keep so much pressure on such tiny screws, but I found it was the only way to prevent damage to the “slots” on the heads. Anyway, all of them suffered some degree of damage, but I was able to successfully remove them and reinstall all of them back in their original holes.

    Martin Mejia -

    After reading this page on iFixit several times, I just could not face all the work of replacing the Logic Boards on two MacBookPro 2011s even if I was prepared to pay approx 400 USD (which I wasn’t). Then I read the reviews of a couple of folks who’d stripped down their machines and put their logic boards in the oven and, it worked! I wondered, if I just used my new Steinel Hot Air Tool (heat gun in my language) recently delivered from iFixit, on the logic board in-situ, without removing it? So I removed the battery, hard drive, and RAM and unplugged all the leads I could see WITHOUT removing anything else physically. Then using the 500 degrees set on the gun (setting 2) I ‘played’ the gun over the logic board for about 60 seconds on machine one with the restart problem (plus latterly, not completing start-up). Long story short… it worked! I spent a long time getting the s/w to load, but the commentary is too short to let me relate that part… ping me if I can help you do the same! blackaye@gmail.com

    Ian Black - Replica

  2. Sostituzione scheda madre MacBook Pro Unibody 15"  inizio 2011: passo 2, immagine 1 di 1
    • Solleva con entrambe le mani il case inferiore in prossimità della presa d'aria per estrarre le due clip di fissaggio al case superiore.

    • Rimuovi il case inferiore e mettilo da parte.

    What is the maximum amount of RAM that can be installed in this MacBook?

    michael - Replica

    16 GB is the max

    Bradon Kelley -

    I can’t get the back panel off !! Removed all 10 screws but the panel is still on. Not a quick easy lift like in the picture of videos on youtube what going on…are the hidden screws locking tabs?

    Tachyon - Replica

    Solved the tabs were hard to get off to the point I thought I was going to bend the back case off before it would let go.

    Tachyon - Replica

  3. Sostituzione scheda madre MacBook Pro Unibody 15"  inizio 2011, Connettore batteria: passo 3, immagine 1 di 2 Sostituzione scheda madre MacBook Pro Unibody 15"  inizio 2011, Connettore batteria: passo 3, immagine 2 di 2
    • Per alcune riparazioni (es. hard drive), non occorre rimuovere la batteria, ma viene raccomandato perché previene qualsiasi cortocircuito accidentale dei componenti elettronici sulla scheda madre. Se si decide di non rimuovere la batteria, operare con cautela poiché alcune parti della scheda madre potrebbero essere alimentate.

    • Usa l'estremità di uno spudger per rimuovere il connettore della batteria dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica.

    • Può essere utile far leva verso l'alto su entrambi i lati del connettore, per farlo "camminare" fuori dal suo zoccolo.

    nails work pretty well as well...

    Sibe Jan Kramer - Replica

    At first sight I was confused when I read the description at this step, 'cause it seemed that disconnecting the battery connector was optional, in order to eliminate static discharge. While it's a helpful advice in other circumstances (as mentioned as an example changing hard drives), when changing the battery it is not an option - you have to disconnect the battery connector.

    It would have been better to mention the optional disconnecting recommendation in a side-note.

    Other than that, an excellent guide!

    Damienn - Replica

    the fact that this step is optional can not be stressed enough. i tried disconnecting the battery and in the process it short circuited which now leaves me with an even more expensive problem than i had before when i just wanted to change hard drives (at least the new hard drive works fine..)

    the hard drive changing worked though.

    nina - Replica

    Any tool used to pry on the battery connector must be non metallic, to prevent unintentional short circuit between the connector pins. In my case, my index finger nails were strong enough.

    Martin Mejia -

    Excellent guide, it was as easy as a breeze to replace my battery. I can't believe I nearly followed Apple in their saying that this part was not user replaceable. Great job for this description, and many thanks. iFixIt is THE reference for Mac owners.

    Patrick.

    Patrick Demaret - Replica

    So - I have a weird comment about this. I wanted to make sure that I was getting the right model - so I opened up my laptop and then thought "well, why not just remove the battery while i'm in here, it's shot anyway". Though, I forgot about the stupid screws (Apple really did us over on that one!). Though I disconnected the battery connector and didn't bother to re-connect it when I was finished and just put the cover back on.

    Here's the weird part - when I went to turn my laptop back on...MY BATTERY WAS RECOGNIZED...AND WORKING! I was under the impression that the connector "connects" the battery's charge to the laptop, but this just doesn't make sense! Plus, now my very dead battery is in "normal" condition according to the system report. I haven't worked for apple, but have about 5 years of IT experience and am baffled by this! I'm starting to think i've experience a miracle! Has this happened to anyone else?

    Shelly - Replica

    Possibly disconnecting the battery caused the System Management Controller to reset. That might have been your problem rather than the battery itself. See http://osxdaily.com/2010/03/24/when-and-...

    Duke Briscoe -

    I'd just like an advise of where to dispose the old battery. Thanks

    Jaime Serafim - Replica

    Any Best Buy or Batteries + Bulbs accepts batteries for recycling in their stores. Many other stores such as Home Depot do as well.

    xtophr -

    Office Depot will take any batteries and dispose of them for free

    silas -

    My battery connector pulled off parallel to the board surface

    Mazo - Replica

    I tried spudging the corner closer to the wires which was probably a bad idea. The corner broke off! I can't believe it was that brittle. So be careful. If it did it again, I'd aim for the corners AWAY from the wires or the sides themselves, though I seem to recall there not being much of a lip.

    Dave Kitabjian - Replica

    I used the spudger to gently ease the battery connector out. I then placed a q-tip between the connector and it’s socket to avoid making an accidental connection. A toothpick or some other soft stick might also work.

    Kristina Graham - Replica

    My battery connector had a shiny metal cover over it like a male USB plug. I had to take the 3 peace symbol screws oit and remove the battery before I could access thr plug properly. My battery plug also came off parallel to the board by walking the black plastic part off the metal part towards the battery. It required quite a bit of force to walk it off the connector. I broke a spudger trying. Something nonconductive but strong like a wittled down bamboo chopstick could work well.

    Pii - Replica

    Translate to Spanish:

    Para ciertas reparaciones (por ejemplo, el disco duro), no es necesario desconectar el conector de la batería, pero evita cualquier cortocircuito accidental de la electrónica en la placa base. Si no desconecta el conector de la batería, tenga cuidado ya que partes de la placa base pueden estar electrificadas.

    Use el borde de un spudger para levantar el conector de la batería hacia arriba desde su zócalo en la placa lógica.

    Es útil hacer palanca hacia arriba en ambos lados cortos del conector para "sacarlo" de su zócalo.

    Pakito Villaseñor - Replica

    The BATTERY MUST BE DISCONNECTED - it is NOT OPTIONAL if you are going to remove the logic board.

    These instructions are for Removing The Logic Board, so if that is what you are going to do the battery MUST be disconnected.

    The informational item beginning with the words “For certain repairs (e.g. hard drive), disconnecting the battery connector is not necessary … “ is NOT applicable to a set of instructions on removing a logic board and it should be deleted from this otherwise excellent set of instructions.

    Michael Walsh - Replica

    In my opinion the RAM should be removed first - i.e., before the battery is removed.

    The RAM DIMMS are just in the way if they are left in their sockets on the logic board until step 33.

    I cannot see any useful reason to not remove them very early in the sequence.

    Michael Walsh - Replica

    I disconnected the battery because it is an opportunity to reset the SMC (which is how the SMC has to be reset in some older Macs.)

    Barb - Replica

  4. Sostituzione scheda madre MacBook Pro Unibody 15"  inizio 2011: passo 4, immagine 1 di 1
    • Piega leggermente il cavo della batteria per allontanarlo dal connettore femmina sulla scheda logica, affinché non si colleghi accidentalmente durante il lavoro.

    My battery connect was like mid 2010 model

    Iain Friend - Replica

    Why not go ahead and remove the battery at this point instead of bending the battery connector back (see steps 23 -25 below)?

    BilMcKelvy - Replica

    Translate to Sanish: Doble el cable de la batería ligeramente lejos de su zócalo en la placa lógica para que no se conecte accidentalmente mientras trabaja.

    Pakito Villaseñor - Replica

  5. Sostituzione scheda madre MacBook Pro Unibody 15"  inizio 2011, Batteria: passo 5, immagine 1 di 1
    • Rimuovi le due viti Tri-point da 7,4 mm che fissano la batteria al case superiore.

    Where can I suggest that iFixit add a cross-referenced note/warning when purchasing a replacement battery (or other parts that require odd tools) that you also need to purchase yet another special-purpose *&$%#(%@ screwdriver, "because Apple"!!

    I had to wait for weeks to find time to complete this repair, and now have to wait weeks longer for another chance.

    Note to self: read the entire guide before purchasing, AND before starting the repair, AND while you're doing the repair...

    seijihuzz01 - Replica

    I preferred to use the Y0 for these screws, the Y1 felt too big for the screws they used with my battery.

    Aschwin de Hoog - Replica

    Are these Tri-wing or Tri-tip? Perhaps there isn't a difference but I've seen references to both.

    Robert Hammett - Replica

    I found that I could not remove the Tri-Wing screws with the guide recommended Y1 bit. It was way too large and instantly started stripping the screw. The Y0 bit fits perfectly. I believe the guide incorrectly recommends the Y1. There is also a 3rd Tri-Wing screw in the top left corner of the batters (same orientation as the guide) located UNDER a small black plastic flap.

    Vincent Glon - Replica

    For Logic board removal, I did not find it necessary to remove the 3 tri-point screws or the battery, the board came out no problem.

    Jokton Strealy - Replica

    I did not need to remove the tri-wing screws or the battery to remove the Logic board on my MBP. The logic board comes right out no problem.

    Jokton Strealy - Replica

    As many people above mentioned, I failed to check the tools required. I thought since I’d done other minor fixes/replacements that I’d already have everything I needed but didn’t have that blasted tri-tip screw driver. I got impatient though and forced a small flat head to work with the pliable screw material. Hopefully I didn’t ruin my ability to ever take them out again.

    Tyler Penrod - Replica

    I bought a tool-kit 1.5 years ago to replace the stock HDD with SSD. There’s only one screwdriver of Y type: an index on its facet that reads “CR-V Y2.0“. Will it do? I don’t understand the nomenclature.

    Elijah - Replica

    Replying to myself: I discovered that that screwdriver is a perfect fit for the screw’s in question bit.

    Elijah -

  6. Sostituzione scheda madre MacBook Pro Unibody 15"  inizio 2011: passo 6, immagine 1 di 1
    • Solleva delicatamente l'estremità rotonda dell'etichetta (quella non incollata) con le avvertenze dal case superiore tra la batteria e il disco ottico in modo da scoprire un'ulteriore vite Tri-point.

    • Rimuovi l'ultima vite Y1 Tri-point da 7,4 mm che fissa la batteria al case superiore.

    • Non rimuovere l'etichetta della batteria.

    Two of the three plastic screw eyelets on my old battery were broken - I guess someone had dropped the computer at some time. So these two little bits of black plastic fell down into the Unibody when I lifted the battery out. I’m glad I saw them so they didn’t rattle around and cause trouble later on!

    Alan Waller - Replica

    I also had all three of the plastic screw eyelets broken off of the battery after I unscrewed. Wasn’t a problem as I was only replacing the battery.

    silas - Replica

    Putting these screws back in was the only problem I ran into – I had to realign the battery a few times before they went in easily.

    Philip Machanick - Replica

  7. Sostituzione scheda madre MacBook Pro Unibody 15"  inizio 2011: passo 7, immagine 1 di 1
    • Usa la linguetta di estrazione in plastica per rimuovere la batteria dal case superiore.

    • Dopo aver installato una nuova batteria, dovresti calibrarla:

    • Carica al 100% e poi tieni sotto carica almeno altre due ore. Quindi stacca l'alimentazione e usa il laptop normalmente per farlo scaricare. All'avviso di batteria in esaurimento, salva il lavoro corrente e tieni acceso il MacBook finché non si iberna perché è scarico. Aspetta almeno altre 5 ore, poi carica il laptop ininterrottamente fino al 100%.

    • Se noti qualsiasi problema o comportamento inusuale dopo l'installazione di una nuova batteria, può essere necessario resettare l'SMC del tuo MacBook.

    ifixit kit i bought linked to from here says to discharge below 10% then charge to 100%, but this says to charge, then discharge, then charge. Guess I’ll follow the instructions here, but would be good to update the notes to say whether to disregard the card that comes with the kit or not.

    Nathan Loyer - Replica

    The instructions here in the guide are the most up-to-date. It takes a little longer to make changes/updates to printed materials. Sorry for any confusion!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    WARNING!

    When I lifted my dead battery out, I saw two old 3 mm Phillips case screws lying loose in the bottom of the Unibody. I lifted them out using the magnetism of the Phillips #00 screwdriver.

    On gently shaking the case I could hear that there was another loose item still in there somewhere, so I carefully turned the laptop over to have it fall out – and the whole hard disk fell out, though it remained hanging by its cable! I discovered that the two screws holding the retaining strip (that runs the whole length of the hard disk between it and the DVD unit) had been completely loose!

    Nothing broke, but it was a nasty surprise!

    I had bought this machine second-hand as factory refurbished with twelve months guarantee – and gotten three old case screws and a nasty surprise for free! Apart from that, I’ve been really pleased with it.

    Alan Waller - Replica

    I purchased this battery and kit for my late 2011 MacBook Pro on Wednesday and received it today; Monday. Great timing with shipping! Instructions were VERY handy. I almost missed the screw in STEP 6. Thanks for that guys! The kit is exactly what was needed and the battery came out smoothly and replacement went in without any issue!

    Derek Lipscomb - Replica

    After there complete discharge, it certainly needed helped figuring out how long to recharge – it kept telling me another hour and 30 minutes or so for a while. I hope now it knows as it is useful to have an idea how long it’s going to take.

    Philip Machanick - Replica

    How long should it take to drain when using it normally (just websurfing), after charging to 100% and waiting 2+ hours that first time?

    Annelisse Fifi - Replica

    I noticed after first full charge, the battery lasted a little less than 3 hours w constant web surfing… will it improve?

    yetixhunting - Replica

    yetixhunting - Sep 15, 2022.... Batteries are mass produced. it's not necessary that all the product exhibit the same characteristics.

    It's advisable, that you request for a replacement.

    The correct procedure to calibrate the new battery after it's installed, is to use it till discharge to 25% and then charge it to 100% and hold the charging process for 2 more hours

    Then repeat the process mentioned above namely; (discharge to 25% and charge to 100% hold for 2 hours etc)

    This is process is enough to almost stabilize the battery.

    But remember, you'd not obtain a result of OEM standards, in any case. Apple standards are very stringent and such standards will be be there in other manufacturers. Meaning 7 hrs continuous use, when new.

    FYI the device I'm presently on, is MacBook Pro (15-inch, Late 2011) and I have not replaced the Battery as yet.

    I will not discharge more than 20%.

    Modifications: 126GB HHD replaced to 256GB SSD. 8GB RAM to 16GB. The system is faster than before.

    This machine is the best. Cheers.

    Sree Kumar - Replica

    Hi, I've just bought a new battery from Ifixit for my mid 2012 MacBook Pro. It works well. But my computer doesn't wake up anymore without the Magsafe charger. Then, I can use my laptop. How do I change this ? Thank you.

    seraphinlampion - Replica

  8. Sostituzione scheda madre MacBook Pro Unibody 15"  inizio 2011, Ventola sinistra: passo 8, immagine 1 di 1
    • Svita le tre viti Torx T6 da 3,4 mm che fissano la ventola sinistra alla scheda madre.

    • In alcuni modelli, queste viti Torx T6 potrebbero essere da 3,1 mm.

    Je vais juste vous surprendre car je suis français.

    JI'll just surprise you because I am French .

    I understood the problem of the left fan. In fact the problem is with the design at Apple. The fan housing is too narrow vertically a few tenths of millimeters. This is why so many problems . The left fans deteriorate very quickly.

    The solution is very simple. Buy a new fan in China, it is the cheapest and level it's very fast delivery . Warning it comes fan already used but in good condition.

    The thing to do is to over- raise the fan does not rub and deteriorating. To do so just buy a zinc washer 3 mm diameter available from my local hardware store ( € 3 for 70 pieces ) and place it under the black screw fully right and top right . The over- elevation leads to no longer have friction effect.

    Thats ALL !!!

    olivierbartoli - Replica

    on my screwdriver set, the T6 screw driver felt wobbly. It felt like I would strip the screw if not careful. So I used a T7 screw driver, and it was much more snug.

    Bryan Chun - Replica

    Same here. T6 did not fit at all. Too small.

    Bummer. Will have to screw my MBP back together and get a T7 on Monday…

    Oliver Nielsen - Replica

  9. Sostituzione scheda madre MacBook Pro Unibody 15"  inizio 2011: passo 9, immagine 1 di 3 Sostituzione scheda madre MacBook Pro Unibody 15"  inizio 2011: passo 9, immagine 2 di 3 Sostituzione scheda madre MacBook Pro Unibody 15"  inizio 2011: passo 9, immagine 3 di 3
    • Usa la parte piatta di uno spudger per scollegare il connettore della ventola sinistra dalla scheda madre.

    • È utile ruotare lo spudger lungo l'asse da sotto il cavo della ventola per scollegare il connettore.

    • Puoi vedere la presa e il connettore nelle ultime due immagini. Stai attento a non rompere la presa in plastica della ventola sulla scheda madre mentre usi lo spudger per scollegare il connettore. La disposizione della scheda madre mostrata nella seconda immagine può essere leggermente diversa dalla tua, ma la presa della ventola è la stessa.

    I successfully removed my right fan, cleaned it and installed it back. But when it came to the left one I accidentally broke the connector from the logic board. Now I'm left with only one functioning fan. I'm using an external laptop fan. Do I have to replace the whole logic board or can it be fixed somehow? My temp is between 90-95 C when I run a heavy game.

    khalid alodan - Replica

    I made the same mistake! Did you solve it?

    Rosario - Replica

    In case anyone else accidentally breaks a fan connector, check the comment on step #14. It is basically the same connection, so that should work here.

    Relevant part of comment - “To replace it, I removed the socket, held it in place against the solder pads and ran a 750degF soldering iron across the pads. It's definitely reattached it, I'm not sure how good the electrical contacts are yet.”

    John - Replica

  10. Sostituzione scheda madre MacBook Pro Unibody 15"  inizio 2011: passo 10, immagine 1 di 1
    • Solleva la ventola sinistra dalla copertura superiore per rimuoverla.

    If you’re just looking to remove fluff that can block the fan outlets, you don’t need to disconnect fan power connector from the logic board header (Step 6) - the fans on my MacBook Pro kept spinning up to max speed (6200rpm) so I removed the three T6 Torx screws (Step 5) and carefully lifted the fan to oneside removed the fluff with a toothpick and replaced the fan and screws — repeated this for both left and right fans

    Kev Salmon - Replica

  11. Sostituzione scheda madre MacBook Pro Unibody 15"  inizio 2011, Scheda madre: passo 11, immagine 1 di 1
    • Usa la parte piatta di uno spudger per scollegare il connettore della ventola destra dalla sua presa sulla scheda madre.

    • È utile ruotare lo spudger lungo l'asse da sotto il cavo della ventola per scollegare il connettore.

    Of course, this is not the right fan but the left in the picture.

    maccentric - Replica

    Managed to break off a fan connector. Really poor mistake there, as it really is not too hard. Follow exactly like the picture and realize that it lifts up! But good news, I managed to break one of the least important parts and the computer still runs fine!

    Sam - Replica

  12. Sostituzione scheda madre MacBook Pro Unibody 15"  inizio 2011: passo 12, immagine 1 di 2 Sostituzione scheda madre MacBook Pro Unibody 15"  inizio 2011: passo 12, immagine 2 di 2
    • Svita le tre viti Torx T6 da 3,4 mm (o 3,1 mm) che fissano la ventola destra alla scheda madre.

    • Soleva la ventola destra dal suo alloggio nella scheda madre.

    After doing this remove the iSight connection; it’s the thin strip located at the bottom of the speaker socket. You can carefully pull it out.

    Jirosworld - Replica

  13. Sostituzione scheda madre MacBook Pro Unibody 15"  inizio 2011: passo 13, immagine 1 di 1
    • Sfila il cavo della fotocamera dalla sua presa nella scheda madre.

    • Non tirare il cavo della fotocamera verso l'alto mentre lo scolleghi: potresti danneggiare sia il cavo che la scheda madre. Tira il cavo parallelamente alla scheda madre.

    One can see how to remove the cable in this picture: https://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/ig...

    Better than pull is to push it with something like a screwdrive at the small angle left and right.

    Alex Nevell - Replica

    Before doing this remove the iSight connection; it’s the thin strip located at the bottom of the speaker socket. You can carefully pull it out.

    Jirosworld - Replica

  14. Sostituzione scheda madre MacBook Pro Unibody 15"  inizio 2011: passo 14, immagine 1 di 1
    • Usa la parte piatta di uno spudger per scollegare il connettore AirPort/Bluetooth dalla sua presa sulla scheda madre.

    Am I the only one but my MacBook has black shielding on the CD-R drive, not some clear tape stuff to reveal the internals on the drive….

    Vincent Mahler - Replica

  15. Sostituzione scheda madre MacBook Pro Unibody 15"  inizio 2011: passo 15, immagine 1 di 1
    • Usa la parte piatta di uno spudger per scollegare il connettore del lettore CD dalla sua presa sulla scheda madre.

    Mine had a little adhesive strip behind the connector. Pull gently

    nicholasmcroberts - Replica

    Also had an adhesive strip, thanks for mentioning it!

    Andrew Wong -

  16. Sostituzione scheda madre MacBook Pro Unibody 15"  inizio 2011: passo 16, immagine 1 di 1
    • Scollega il cavo del disco rigido/sensore IR dalla sua presa sulla scheda sollevandolo da sotto il suo connettore.

  17. Sostituzione scheda madre MacBook Pro Unibody 15"  inizio 2011: passo 17, immagine 1 di 1
    • Usa la parte piatta di uno spudger per scollegare il connettore del subwoofer/speaker destro dalla sua presa sulla scheda madre.

    • Fai leva da sotto i cavi.

    Be really, really careful detaching this connector - make sure it's lifted from the cable side. I managed to remove the whole lot from the logic board by accident. On mine it was disguised under a lump of rubber foam.

    To replace it, I removed the socket, held it in place against the solder pads and ran a 750degF soldering iron across the pads. It's definitely reattached it, I'm not sure how good the electrical contacts are yet.

    afoster - Replica

    There is foam on the top of this connector. Do not pry up from under that. Instead, put your spudger underneath the red and black wires themselves and pry up. Very little resistance.

    Alex Grayson - Replica

    Passe auf, nicht den Plastikanschluss des Lautsprechers vom Logic Board abzubrechen, wenn du den Stecker mit einem Spudger gerade nach oben und aus dem Anschluss hebst!

    Urs Wihler - Replica

  18. Sostituzione scheda madre MacBook Pro Unibody 15"  inizio 2011: passo 18, immagine 1 di 2 Sostituzione scheda madre MacBook Pro Unibody 15"  inizio 2011: passo 18, immagine 2 di 2
    • Svita le due viti a croce Phillips da 1,5 mm (o 1,2 mm) che fissano il cavo della tastiera/trackpad alla scheda madre.

    • Solleva la copertura dalla scheda madre e mettila da parte.

    Be sure to use the right size screwdriwer, as these screws might be hard to remove. I ended up having to cut the metal cover and bend it away as the screws wouldn't come loose.

    That works too however..

    dmitri - Replica

    I ended up using a #000 phillips screwdriver instead of the #00. I was able to get this piece up without issue.

    Dave Bruhn - Replica

    I bought ph#00 screwdriver and it doesn't work for all phillips screws. Just buy #000 phillips screwdrive for all phillips screws.

    ozhan - Replica

    Can I get it work with PH#00?

    Utsav Dusad - Replica

    I was able to skip this step, along with 16, 17, & 18, and complete the repair successfully. Instead of fully removing the logic board as described in step 22, I lifted the left edge and then wiggled it left until I could lift it from the hinge edge; this gave me plenty of room to see what I was doing while removing and replacing the DC-in board.

    Sarah Dunlap - Replica

    @Sarah Dunlap. Yes, I did the same, it entirely possible ( although fiddly ) to complete this repair without fully removing the Logic board and instead lifting it out of the way taking care not to put too much tension on the keyboard ribbon cable.

    bill borez - Replica

    I used the J000 bit (I think this is a JIS bit, not Phillips) for these screws and they seemed like a much better fit. It seems like the screws aren’t actually Phillips (ie. with the curved, cam-out corners) but are squared off.

    Andrew Wharton - Replica

    On mine the small black piece of plastic directly south of the plate we just removed that is connected to the aluminum frame underneath by two screws was broken in the middle. Can’t find what this piece is called or what its purpose is. It swings open from the screws like a door because it is broken in the middle but it doesn’t seem to have intrinsic value other than filling up space and seems that it would be held in place by the battery and the plate and the logic board once assembled.

    Aaron - Replica

    I ended stripping one of the screws with Phillips #00 and just bent the metal piece carefully up instead so I could disconnect the two connectors underneath it. These screws are awful!

    Andrew Wong - Replica

    Aaron. The small black piece of plastic is one of two clips. The other is to the left of the one you mention. On the inside of the bottom case there are two small metal tabs that slip into these two black plastic clips.

    Michael Walsh - Replica

    As a couple of others have mentioned (above), I too had trouble getting these two screws out too. My problem was that they had corroded and locked into their threaded sockets. Also, the corrosion had rotted out the inside shape of the Phillips slots so that no screwdriver would fit properly.

    I had to cut the cover down the middle and bend it up and out of the way.

    Michael Walsh - Replica

    Hey I’m trying to find the screws for this step online through ebay or amazon. But I can’t find it.

    Is the screws the same as the one used on the trackpad, or the keyboard (ebay selling 100 pieces set)?

    Can anyone check?

    Johnny Sasaski - Replica

  19. Sostituzione scheda madre MacBook Pro Unibody 15"  inizio 2011: passo 19, immagine 1 di 1
    • Usa la parte piatta di uno spudger per scollegare il connettore del trackpad dalla sua presa sulla scheda madre.

  20. Sostituzione scheda madre MacBook Pro Unibody 15"  inizio 2011: passo 20, immagine 1 di 2 Sostituzione scheda madre MacBook Pro Unibody 15"  inizio 2011: passo 20, immagine 2 di 2
    • Usa le unghie per ruotare verso l'alto l'aletta di bloccaggio sul connettore ZIF del cavo a nastro della tastiera.

    • Assicurati di star ruotando l'aletta di bloccaggio incernierata, non la presa stessa.

    • Usa la punta di uno spudger per sfilare il cavo a nastro della tastiera dalla sua presa.

    Need a better picture of the zif connector. You lift the lock from the side farthest from the flat cable, and it lifts toward the cable. When reinserting be sure to get the cable all the way or you may have only half the keyboard working.

    Jim - Replica

    Definitely should have read this comment before I cracked the ZIF socket…

    Joshua Vande Walle -

    this almost trigger panic button in my head, since after reassembly, my macbook wont turn on at all. turned out the keyboard zif cable is not fully inserted to the socket, and since power button is also connected through those flex, its no wonder it wont respond when i press it. Re-seat the zif flex and everything went great.

    Otniel Yoreiza -

    I could use some advice on reinserting the ZIF cable firmly in its socket. I can get it started, but getting it far enough in to make contact is difficult, given its flexibility. Any tips on manipulating it?

    CJ Attias - Replica

    I used a piece of sticky tape that I attached to the ZIF cable, then pulled firmly on the tape (attached to the cable) to get the ZIF cable to seat properly. The tape held to the cable, the ZIF cable seated properly, and the keyboard worked.

    robertemcgee -

    getting the cable back in was leaps and bounds more difficult than this entire replacement job! be very very careful and note that it goes alllll the way in. i bent the ribbon like crazy, but the keyboard still seems to work fine!

    shmianco - Replica

    REINSERTING THIS CABLE WAS ABSOLUTELY THE MOST DIFFICULT STEP IN THIS WHOLE PROCESS!

    Key points:

    •Make sure that it's inserted evenly. It's tempting to get one edge in, and then the other, but that approach will prevent it from seating properly.

    •The cable goes all the way in. There is maybe 1/16" of the little grooves showing, but not much more.

    •Once the cable is properly seated, use a piece of tape to pull it all the way in, and keep the tension on the tape as you use a sprudger to flip down the retaining flap.

    •It's a fragile connection, and if you break the cable it's a top-case or keyboard replacement, which is either expensive or a PITA, so patience is key.

    Kyle - Replica

    It's very easy to do this step incorrectly. Make sure to use your fingernail and pry gently. This was the only step I felt didn't have a great explanation and damaging the part could easily happen.

    tgphotosales - Replica

    I messed up and broke the connector. Here is part of a video showing in close-up how to remove it properly (different model Mac, same connector). Wish I had seen it before I tried it.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qiBxhA29e...

    wizzart - Replica

    Thank you for posting that video link. You saved me a lot of frustration!

    disneyfunteacher -

    Thanks for posting the video. Made it much clearer how to disconnect and save damage!

    Gareth Aschenbrenner -

    When they say "retaining flap", they are referring to a square plastic clip that hinges to the clip on the board. Starts at 7:15 in the video.

    kevicoll409 -

    Thanks a lot! Great video

    Sean Kandel -

    I needed that video. Thanks

    Justin Brisotto -

    Veeerrrry subtle. This video saved me I think. Thank you!

    The key is between 7:33 and 7:36 but I didn’t catch it until the third watch.

    Aaron -

    Thank you to everyone who commented about this step. I did not have any trouble doing this but I could have. Also for all the excellent clarification especially the tips on reinserting the ribbon cable which I have yet to do after I hopefully fix the logic board

    Peter Newman - Replica

    When they say "pull" the cable, they mean to "slide" it. Do not lift and pull.

    kevicoll409 - Replica

    Attaching a small piece of tape and pulling parallel to motherboard did the trick.

    Brian Blair - Replica

    I had trouble getting the cable out (let alone back in!) In the end, sliding a toothpick in behind the ribbon and gently pulling from both sides of the toothpick did the trick.

    Kal - Replica

    On reassembly, I realise why it was so hard to get out—I had not lifted the retaining flap, thinking they just meant the flap of tape. Not well illustrated in the photo. The retaining flap is the long bit of plastic opposite the ribbon (closer to the fans).

    Kal - Replica

    I acquired a macbook pro with a cut trackpad wire and no battery. In looking at this layout my concern is… what if the connection is pulled from the hinge and the hinge to hold it into place is completely missing?

    Anthony Eliseo - Replica

    The most difficult part was putting it back in. I read the comments and I used a piece of tape to help push it back in. Make sure it’s all the way in or else you wont be able to turn your mac on. About a hairline of the grooves were

    Cristina - Replica

    The comment Kal left about lifting the retaining flap is key during reassembly!

    I, too, totally missed that there is a plastic “bar” covering the end of the pins. Without that lifted up, it’s %#*@ near impossible to push the connector in since the flap/bar is putting pressure downwards.

    With the retaining flap down, it comes out without too much effort. But putting it back in is a whole different story. Be sure to lift it up!

    Justin Blecher - Replica

    For reinserting, just be patient, lining up the ribbon, keeping a good hold on the tab, and applying even pressure along the ribbon, slowly, firmly reinserting. If the power button doesn’t work when you put everything back together, you will know the ribbon needs better connection. I promise you can do it!

    hyde244 - Replica

    Even with the warning, I tried to flip up the socket. It looks unusual, not a standard zif socket. Try gently pulling (not lifting!) the cable to see where the cable ends and the socket begins. There is more socket there and less cable then it looks!

    frnhr - Replica

    ps, donʻt forget to LATCH the retaining flap back in place. i forgot and had to re-open the computer, was only getting the letter “H”. wasted 5 minutes for a 2 second slip up.

    Kahana - Replica

    Thanks for this priceless comment. Had 8 dead keys. It occurred to me to check the comments here and, lo and behold, same here! Who needs adventure sports or drug taking for highs and lows.

    Rob -

  21. Sostituzione scheda madre MacBook Pro Unibody 15"  inizio 2011: passo 21, immagine 1 di 1
    • Usa la parte piatta di uno spudger per scollegare il connettore dell'indicatore della batteria dalla sua presa sulla scheda madre.

    It is not obvious which direction to pull. I pulled towards towards the center and pulled off the sponge handle. Easy to put back on. Pull towards the nearest corner.

    cvmiller21 - Replica

  22. Sostituzione scheda madre MacBook Pro Unibody 15"  inizio 2011: passo 22, immagine 1 di 2 Sostituzione scheda madre MacBook Pro Unibody 15"  inizio 2011: passo 22, immagine 2 di 2
    • Prendi l'aletta in plastica fissata al blocco del cavo dello schermo e ruotala verso il lato di ingresso DC del portatile.

    • Sfila il cavo dello schermo dalla sua presa sulla scheda madre.

    • Non tirare il cavo dello schermo verso l'alto, in quanto la sua presa è molto delicata. Tira il cavo parallelamente alla scheda madre.

    The metallic flap controlled by the plastic handle looks like it could easily break... a safer route is to grab the shielded cable after rotating the metal flap out of socket and gently pry it out of the socket by applying force parallel to the logic board. It will probably take a few minutes but you could save yourself some gray hairs.

    This is the hardest step IMO

    brbulic - Replica

    Indeed this s the hardest step.its not clear from the instruction that there are two elements to this component. The connector and also a metal retaining clip that needs to be rotated off the connector first.

    mail - Replica

    this was the hardest part of the dismantling for me. it's not super obvious in the pictures that there is a hinge and the metal piece, attached with tape, swings over and towards the DC-in.

    shmianco - Replica

    I found it easiest to grab the connector where the hinged metal piece connected to the body.

    Replacing this connector was a bit fiddly, as you have to make sure it's lined up exactly before pushing it in, and because pushing it in requires a bit of force.

    Kyle - Replica

    "Pull the cable straight" means to slide the connector out, do not lift and pull. Also, check for a square locking clip attached to the plug, if it won't come out.

    kevicoll409 - Replica

    I really advise you to remove the cable retainer (one 8.6 phillips, you can see a photo in the display replacement tutorial) BEFORE unplugging the cable, to have more freedom of movement (to plug it in back it's even more important). Those are REALLY flimsy (i just broke one without being brutal and believe me you don't want to change it).

    Bonachera - Replica

    I found it helpful to remove the bracket for the display cable to allow more movement of the cable when attempting to reassemble

    Justin Brisotto - Replica

    Really great site!! replaced a LB in an mid 2010 MBP with kernal panic crash. Fixed! No issues with detailed procedure and comments. So I'll add one for this step. This was the simplest step really. Additional clues. (Wish I could post a pix). Look at the gold conn in the pix above. Note that the cable mates with the conn with the 2 tabs each side showing full insertion. The silver retainer pops up, bar away from the cable. Using my custom tool, a small screw driver, filed really small as I don't have a #000 Phillips, release the retainer, then carefully wedge open the tab on each side, inserting your "tool" in the slot. Neatly and slowly, the conn comes apart. Putting it back together, once the conn is alligned, just push alternately on each tab. Doesn't take much effort, better that pushing on the cable. I also appreciate the comment that removing the clamp, both clamps with one screw actually, makes this easier.

    Bruce Rayner - Replica

    This made a difference for me. I put my arm behind the computer to pull the hinge and tape everything away from me out of my way and holding out with my thumb and walk each side and bit by bit using the tool. I’ll add be very careful that it is steady parallel force. Also if you can’t get the hinge clip down when the cable seems in try steady flat force across the clip of the hinge with the tool alternating with walking it in even more with your thumb on top holding it down so you don’t actually accidentally pry anything perpendicularly up.

    Aaron -

    This is indeed a tricky step. First time, after following all the steps and reassembling I had no screen, which freaked me out. Luckily, another go at the connector did the trick and now I’m a happy owner of a macbook with a new trackpad. Thanks!

    Balazs Gobel - Replica

    This step is really unclear! After grabbing what I thought was the “plastic pull tab” and having it come off in my hand, I was clueless about how to proceed. After puzzling over it for about 15 minutes, I saw the actual “plastic pull tab”, which was against the mother board near the fan. Pulling this upward unlocked the metal hinge and everything else was obvious after that.

    xtophr - Replica

    I agree, this step was unclear. Part of the problem may be variations between logic boards. Mine did not look like the one pictured here. Mine has a tab lying flat against the logic board, as also described by xtophr. If this describes yours, check out [|this video] https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=-IE3WNOsrZ... (around 40 seconds in) to see exactly how it comes out. You lift the locking clip up by the plastic tab, then (with a little bit of downward pressure on the cable) slide it out towards the nearest corner of the machine.

    Kal - Replica

    Wow Thansks for the video link. That definetly helped out to understand how this part actually moves. It is pretty easy after this explanation

    Carlos Anriquez -

    ummm, yeah, this was an intimidating 2-STEP step. sounds easy, lift the latch then pull back on the cable connector, but it took me several minutes (felt like an hour) to figure it out.. reinserting was worse, i couldnʻt figure out how to relatch the connection, lots of attempts, and i finally got it in. tested it gingerly, and i think itʻs ok. at least, the screen is working, so iʻll take that as a good sign.

    Kahana - Replica

    Fortunately, the step was easy for me thanks to all the great comments above. It could have been a disaster otherwise.

    Fred Heineman - Replica

    Step 19 :

    First remove the cable clamp, one screw in center behind the connector. Lift the plastic tab upwards and rotating back over the connector. Slide connector out by pulling gently on bend in the wire harness. To reconnect, slide connector into place by pushing on back of bend in wire harness, do not push hard. Use small flat blade at each corner to make final connection. Swing locking hinge down. Reinstall cable clamp.

    John Cusack - Replica

    When putting the logic board back in, remember to move this cable out of the way first. (Otherwise you may find it underneath, and have to take out all the screws again. Not that this happened to me of course.)

    Rob - Replica

    I had a 2011 fully speced, Macbook pro 15 and for one day it died in like late 2017, I had asked a repair shop and they said dead GPU but looking at the gpu now I see no damage and also even if it was dead the CPUs internal graphics would allow it to boot anyway. Can someone help me?

    Tanvir - Replica

  23. Sostituzione scheda madre MacBook Pro Unibody 15"  inizio 2011: passo 23, immagine 1 di 2 Sostituzione scheda madre MacBook Pro Unibody 15"  inizio 2011: passo 23, immagine 2 di 2
    • Usa la punta di uno spudger per ruotare verso l'alto l'aletta di bloccaggio sul connettore ZIF del cavo a nastro della retroilluminazione della tastiera.

    • Assicurati star ruotando l'aletta di bloccaggio incernierata, non la presa stessa.

    • Sfila il cavo a nastro della retroilluminazione della tastiera dalla sua presa.

    Connector slides out, do not lift and pull.

    kevicoll409 - Replica

    any replacement parts available for this? I pulled up instead of sliding cable :(

    Allen Jenkins - Replica

    This step would benefit from a macro view of hinged retaining flap and clarification. The instruction about flipping up the hinged retaining flap is misleading people into trying to flip out the ribbon.

    Frank Wilson - Replica

    Another great save by good comments. Thank you, thank you. :)

    Fred Heineman - Replica

  24. Sostituzione scheda madre MacBook Pro Unibody 15"  inizio 2011: passo 24, immagine 1 di 1
    • Svita le seguenti viti:

    • Sette viti Torx T6 da 3,4 mm (o 3,1 mm) sulla scheda madre

    • Due viti Torx T6 da 8 mm sulla scheda di ingresso DC.

    Remove T6 (smaller) screws first, that was the last screwdriver that you used (for smooth workflow).

    kevicoll409 - Replica

    Getting the DC board back in required a non-trivial amount of force to get it into position and lined up with the screw holes. It seemed to want to sit away further from it’s hole in the external case than it had to be to line up. I eventually got it in by leaving the main logic board out of it’s final position (but with the cable connected), which allowed me to get the leverage to push the DC board in so it would line up and be screwed in. Once it was in, I then positioned the main logic board and screwed it in.

    Andrew Wharton - Replica

  25. Sostituzione scheda madre MacBook Pro Unibody 15"  inizio 2011: passo 25, immagine 1 di 3 Sostituzione scheda madre MacBook Pro Unibody 15"  inizio 2011: passo 25, immagine 2 di 3 Sostituzione scheda madre MacBook Pro Unibody 15"  inizio 2011: passo 25, immagine 3 di 3
    • Solleva attentamente il gruppo della scheda madre dal suo bordo sinistro per rimuoverla dal case superiore, stando attento al cavo del lettore CD e le porte I/O che possono impigliarsi durante la rimozione.

    • Se necessario, usa la parte piatta di uno spudger per separare il microfono dal case superiore.

    • Tira via il lato delle porte I/O dal bordo del case superiore e rimuovi il gruppo della scheda madre.

    I had a little difficulty pulling the motherboard before the battery. I'm not sure why you would want to do it in the order listed here, but doing steps 23 and 24 first helped the board come out easier.

    maccentric - Replica

    The thing that caught me on this step was that, at least on mine, the speaker box was glued/taped to the case, and so I got rather nervous trying to remove the logic board as it wouldn't move until said adhesive was pried apart. Thank goodness I knew the difference between the sounds of "board breaking" and "adhesive separating", but this step was still rather harrowing for me.

    Joseph Sikorski - Replica

    The microphone cable was easy to pry off the logic board for disassembly. For re-assembly, I was having a heck of a time getting the connector to connect to the logic board. There just isn't enough room to get your hands and tools in there and still see what you're doing (unless you're a dentist and you're used to that kind of thing). Anyway, I finally got brave and pulled the round, rubberized microphone from the case. I connected the short cable to the logic board, set the microphone in the made-for-the-microphone housing on the logic board, hoping it would stick itself back to the case once the logic board was in position, and I was back in business. In this case, simply stating "reverse these steps for reassembly" wasn't very forthcoming.

    robk64 - Replica

    Pulling the microphone off the case is key to reassembling. Place the mic back into the cut-away in the speaker housing and plug the connection into the backside of the logic board

    Justin Brisotto -

    thx graciaaaas :)

    driveremule -

    When I did this step the microphone was REALLY STUCK to the upper case, it actually stayed stuck to it and disconnect "itself" from the mother board while I was lifting up everything.

    Finally, there was no damage : I separated the microphone from the upper case while reassembling, then connected it back to the mother board and put it on its housing.

    Greg - Replica

    Count the number of connectors as you remove the board, so that when you put it back one does not get lost under the board and you can't figure out why it won't go in. You should do this.

    kevicoll409 - Replica

    If you laptop was getting hot when charging then be extra careful in this step because the foam pad under the logic board my have started to fuse to the casing. If the pad seems stuck then use a knife to gently pry it up.

    Jereme Shaver - Replica

    I wish I'd read the comment on the items being stuck to the surface below

    Mazo - Replica

    I have the same case with Joseph Sikorski - it's hard to pull out the mother board because the speaker is glued that I thought their are remaining screws that hook in to it. Better use flat spudger to pry the right side that is stuck when you pull the left upward first.

    Auldz Buzz - Replica

    Repairing a friend’s laptop… I wonder if the “glue” between the speaker and case is actually juice or soda, lol

    Sarah Ybarra - Replica

    This part was highly stressful. The microphone/left speaker assembly are fused to the underside of the logic board. As you are facing the project according to the layout in these photos, the mike assembly is on the right side of the logic board, towards the top end. It is fused to the logic board but it also has adhesive sticking it to the upper case. As you lift, you have to insert a long spudger flat end down into that corner and move it back and forth between the mike assembly and the upper case, and it will release. Be very patient, focused, and slow. The spare part I bought from iFixIt had an extra speaker there in case I messed up, but I did not need it.

    jruedas - Replica

    Hallelujah! There is a God!…Been sitting here for the past 2 hours, eyeballing the rubber whatever it is ”My New Moto”..When I’m stuck…”READ THE COMMENTS!…Thanks to all of you!!!!

    taleahebey - Replica

    For reinserting the logic board, it helps to have a second person helping hold connection points to the side so you do not accidentally lay the logic board on top. Just go slowly, being mindful of all connections. (best to start by properly seating the DC power unit in the upper right corner)

    hyde244 - Replica

    This step need a better picture of how the speaker and microphone looked from beneath the board, so people can understand where they should pry with the stick tool to wiggle the adhesive. In my case, it was the microphone that stucked, luckily the connector of the mic itself wigle off when i pull the board sideway. N fortunately the connector wasnt torned.

    For any of you have difficulty in this step i would suggest to actually disconnect the socket of the mic from the board first, and then only pull the mic itself from the upper case.

    Otniel Yoreiza - Replica

    When you put in back, remember there’s 11 connectors-wires

    Sergio Cuervo - Replica

  26. Sostituzione scheda madre MacBook Pro Unibody 15"  inizio 2011, Dissipatore: passo 26, immagine 1 di 1
    • Appoggia la scheda madre su una superficie piatta e soffice con il dissipatore rivolto verso l'alto.

    • Svita le sei viti a croce Phillips #1 che fissano il dissipatore alla scheda madre.

    • Tieni traccia delle piccole molle sotto ogni vite.

    My MacBook Pro (Mid 2012, 15") comes without the heat sink of the CPU :/

    neodefensio - Replica

  27. Sostituzione scheda madre MacBook Pro Unibody 15"  inizio 2011: passo 27, immagine 1 di 1
    • Rimuovi il dissipatore dalla scheda madre.

    • Se il dissipatore sembra incastrato sulla scheda madre dopo aver rimosso le sei viti, Potrebbe essere utile usare uno spudger per separare i due componenti.

    • Se devi rimontare il dissipatore sulla scheda madre, abbiamo una guida per la pasta termica per aiutarti a sostituirla facilmente.

    Are 3,5 grams of thermal paste enough for both CPU and GPU? ('m an owner of a MacBook Pro Early 2011, with the AMD Radeon)

    Zamir Hashorva - Replica

    1 gram should be enough for both

    Kabunka Ferreira - Replica

    Strictly speaking, there’s no absolute need to remove the heat sink, unless you need to clean and re-apply some cooling past. The steps concerning the left speaker and the microphone following this step in this guide, can be done without it.

    Mikael Bystrom - Replica

    Should i use a heat gun?

    Eddie - Replica

    this is the only step iʻm really not sure if it worked - i donʻt know if i got enough heat sink paste in. feels a little warm with a fan pad under the computer, but maybe thatʻs just normal. i HIGHLY urge reading the linked section of doing the thermal paste. i hope i never have to do it again, unless i know i got it right this time.

    Kahana - Replica

    There is another flat black rectangular heat sink between the heatsink listed above and the speaker/microphone bracket.

    It is worth replacing the thermal paste under it too. It is held in place by two T6 torx screws.

    Michael Walsh - Replica

    I second this. My new logic board didn’t come with this rectangular heat sink and does not have screw standoffs attached to the motherboard. I see that new logic boards don’t seem to have it yet this guide and several others already have it attached on. HELP!

    Brandon Billington -

  28. Sostituzione scheda madre MacBook Pro Unibody 15"  inizio 2011, Scheda madre: passo 28, immagine 1 di 1
    • Se necessario, solleva il microfono dal suo alloggio sullo speaker sinistro.

  29. Sostituzione scheda madre MacBook Pro Unibody 15"  inizio 2011: passo 29, immagine 1 di 1
    • Svita le due viti a croce Phillips da 5 mm che fissano lo speaker sinistro alla scheda madre.

  30. Sostituzione scheda madre MacBook Pro Unibody 15"  inizio 2011: passo 30, immagine 1 di 1
    • Se presente, rimuovi la piccola striscia di nastro adesivo nero che copre il connettore dello speaker sinistro.

    • Tira attentamente verso l'alto i cavi dello speaker sinistro per scollegarli dalla loro presa sulla scheda madre.

  31. Sostituzione scheda madre MacBook Pro Unibody 15"  inizio 2011: passo 31, immagine 1 di 1
    • Tira attentamente verso l'alto i cavi del microfono per scollegarli dalla loro presa sulla scheda madre.

  32. Sostituzione scheda madre MacBook Pro Unibody 15"  inizio 2011: passo 32, immagine 1 di 1
    • Tira i cavi della scheda di ingresso DC verso il dissipatore per scollegarli dalla loro presa sulla scheda madre.

    • Tira i cavi parallelamente alla scheda madre.

  33. Sostituzione scheda madre MacBook Pro Unibody 15"  inizio 2011: passo 33, immagine 1 di 2 Sostituzione scheda madre MacBook Pro Unibody 15"  inizio 2011: passo 33, immagine 2 di 2
    • Rilascia le alette su entrambi i lati della RAM spingendole via dal banco allo stesso tempo.

    • Queste alette tengono fermo il banco e rilasciarle lo solleverà.

    • Dopo che il banco della RAM si è sollevato, sfilalo dalla sua presa.

    • Ripeti questa procedura se è presente un secondo banco della RAM.

    • Resta solo la scheda madre.

    • Se devi rimontare il dissipatore sulla scheda madre, abbiamo una guida per la pasta termica per aiutarti a sostituirla facilmente.

    I broke one of the clips that secures the memory in the "down" position when replacing the RAM. Is there any way to replace just this part? I tried removing the 4 screws that appear to connect the fastener to the logic board but had not luck removing the piece. Any ideas?

    Doug - Replica

    Don’t forget to turn the logic board over (as pictured) first!

    Kal - Replica

    These instructions are really fantastic. I’m about to do my board. While you’re in there, you might consider bumping the RAM. Apple said the 2012 topped at 8GB, but it’s really 16GB of RAM. B&H and OWC have it for less than $90 shipped. :)

    John - Replica

    Logicboard 2012 its competible to 2011? Upgrade logicboard 2011 to 2012 ?

    warungtahu - Replica

    Yes, the non retina 2012 of compatible with the unibody 2011.

    Sally -

    Does this logic board (and this guide) work on the 17” mid-2010 Macbook Pro? Or does the 17” have a different logic board?

    minchou - Replica

Conclusione

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30 Commenti

Thanks a lot for this helpful tutorial. There is precision and the detailed steps are very useful.

fmtkk - Replica

Can the CPU replaced on this Logic Board? Or I have to replace the whole Logic Board?!

Ahmed Moubarak - Replica

Logic board completely

gzasuwa -

cpu is part of board

Allen Jenkins - Replica

Hello. Why don't you remove RAM in the beginning? Thanks

Carlos de Cos - Replica

Yeah, I too find this a bit weird.

Tomas Hallgren -

This is a fantastic guide to getting the board removed! The detail around pry points, connector disengagement, and small part removals are perfect!!! Got this done in less than 20 minutes.

Brian Dobbs - Replica

wow! Did just the removal take you 20 minutes, or the entire replacement (including thermal paste reapplication and everything)?

Nuka Kola -

I couldn't get my MacBookPro to power on after this replacement. It made a sound like it was mounting the HD, but no chime and the screen never came on.

Jeff Miller - Replica

UPDATE- I left it on until the indicator light on the front went out (battery died), then plugged it in and it came back on and booted up. The screen and OS worked properly at once.

Jeff Miller -

You may want to try resetting the SMC next time by pressing Shift + Control + Option + Power Button and holding them for 10 seconds.

More here: https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT201295

Nuka Kola -

I plan to replace the logic board for my early 2011 Macbook Pro using this iFixit guide. I gather, from the photo of the replacement logic board (IF161-078-1) in store, that the small heat sinks (item number: IF161-082-1 PCH heatsink; covering the Intel BD82HM65 Platform Controller Hub and the Intel L051NB32 EFL) are not included. Since it's not currently available in store, I was wondering if I could transfer these small heat sinks from the old board onto the new one by just cleaning/reapplying the thermal paste?

Jithin Radhakrishnan - Replica

I don't know if you got your answer Jithin. Either way, yes you need to transfer the heatsink, microphone and speaker from the old logic board to the new one. Transferring the heat sink is one of the most important steps and please carry it out with caution. The part where you clean of the old thermal paste from the heat sink, and apply new paste to the new logic board core's, dab it and spread it out and attach the heat sink; I suggest you use silicon gloves and extra caution.

Sridhar Nemani -

Hi, Jithin,

I believe the new board does not need those heat sinks. In fact, there are no mounting screws/clips to affix them to the 2012 board (I'm talking about a 15" MacBook Pro here). Please follow the link below and read through the discussion to see other people's (and my own) experiences with this replacement procedure.

Here is the link to my post on that string: MacBook Pro 2011 to 2012 logic board swap?

Nuka Kola - Replica

Nuka, Is the logic board for the A1286 dual core and the A1286 quad core the same?

My 15" MacBook Pro quad core (A1286 on back of case) logic board has gone belly up (according to the Mac store, where I took it to have it repaired only to find out this model is no longer "supported".)

mm gd - Replica

Hello.

Unfortunately I have no experience with the dual core board. You can find my experience under the link I've provided in reply to Jithin above. I replaced an Early 2011 Core i7 with a Mid 2012 Core i7. Perhaps this could be of help to you: http://www.everymac.com/systems/by_capab...

Nuka Kola -

Hi there.

I have purchased a Logic board from ifixit website but it doesn't work properly and it would like to retune it and being refunded.

Any idea to whom I have to send it this request?

Many thanks

Marco Berardi - Replica

very good tut...

especially detailed tips on screws measures are very useful.

well done!!

Daniele Ribolla - Replica

Dear all,

I need to change my logic board for mabook pro 2011 15 inch. Can I upgrade it to 2013 version or other version? Any benefit from that? How can I check the compatibility?

Mehran Sh - Replica

Extremely well done. My graphics card was completely gone and my computer wouldn’t boot. I followed these instructions and then put my logic board in the oven at 350 degrees F for 7 minutes, let it cool, applied the thermal paste to the heat sync and reassembled. Booted right up like no problem ever existed. I cannot even believe it.

One thing though, you DO NOT need to get those “Y” bits and take out the battery. Just disconnect it and the logic board comes right out no problem.

Nick Goldston - Replica

Nick, disconnecting the battery is precautionary and highly recommended. Even the slightest damage to the battery while working around it can cause a thermal event. It’s best to just get it out of the way altogether.

Robert Dunham -

Perfect guide. I followed this to fix broken AMD GPU (yes, that issue). When completely disassembled and cleaned, I put the board in the oven at 200C for 7 minutes. Applied new thermal paste (the application from the factory was very bad btw), and put everything back together. And voilá! Tha machine was as good as new. Very happy with the result.

Andreas Lantz - Replica

Is it still working? My MacBook quit booting up one day. It was fixed by Apple a few years ago for gpu problem but now again not working. Maybe putting it in the oven wood be worth a shot!

Alberr -

Thanks for this detailed instruction. I think I will have someone do it.

rvenneman - Replica

bonjour,

sauf erreur de ma part vous ne parlez pas du débranchement du disque dur…

merci pour ce tutoriel!

cordialement

Benoit Ginion - Replica

Dear Readers,

What is the most recent and fastest Ghz LogicBoard that fits into an A1286 Macbook Pro 15” early 2011?

To explain: I run music programs live and write my own music. This software demands a lot from my Macbook at the moment and I’d like to take it up a notch more than I allready have. Believe me its worth my cost. (without buying a new Macbook!)

Maikel Meijer - Replica

Are Late 2011 15” Macbook Pro Unibody logic boards compatible to use in an Early 2011 Macbook Pro?

William Pile - Replica

Very helpful - enabled me to strip down my MacBook and bake the logic board in the oven, bringing it completely back to life (twice)!

Martin Symonds - Replica

Thanks for the guide, a few differences, but relatively straight forward. I use painter’s masking tape to tape all the screws to the parts they held in, then put the logic board screws into a little metal tray. In my case the device had been previously worked on and there were 3 missing bottom case screws, only 2 logic board screws to remove along with the DC in board screws.

infiniti25 - Replica

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