Salta al contenuto principale

Aggiusta la tua roba

Diritto alla Riparazione

Store

Introduzione

Use this guide to replace the entire display assembly on your MacBook Pro, in order to fix a cracked or faulty screen. This assembly also includes the integrated ribbon cables that are known to fail as part of the “FlexGate” defect, so replacing it will also resolve the “stage lights” effect and other issues resulting from ribbon cable damage.

For your safety, discharge your MacBook Pro's battery below 25% before you begin. A charged lithium-ion battery can create a dangerous and uncontrollable fire if accidentally punctured.

  1. Before starting this procedure, you must disable your Mac's Auto Boot feature. Auto Boot powers on your Mac when you open the lid, and may be accidentally triggered during disassembly. Use this guide or follow the abbreviated instructions below to disable Auto Boot. Power on your Mac and launch Terminal. Copy and paste the following command (or type it exactly) into Terminal:
    • Before starting this procedure, you must disable your Mac's Auto Boot feature. Auto Boot powers on your Mac when you open the lid, and may be accidentally triggered during disassembly. Use this guide or follow the abbreviated instructions below to disable Auto Boot.

    • Power on your Mac and launch Terminal.

    • Copy and paste the following command (or type it exactly) into Terminal:

    • sudo nvram AutoBoot=%00

    • Press [return]. If prompted, enter your administrator password and press [return] again. Note: Your return key may also be labeled ⏎ or "enter."

    • You can now safely power down your Mac and open the bottom case, without it accidentally powering on.

    • When your repair is complete and your Mac is successfully reassembled, re-enable Auto Boot with the following command:

    • sudo nvram AutoBoot=%03

    Is this step necessary? I can’t perform this step as I am attempting to repair water damage and need to remove logic board & most likely replace the battery.

    lamajr - Replica

    @mac_medic You definitely don’t want the power coming on while the board is wet. In your case, I think powering on the machine to disable Auto Boot would do more damage than it prevents. I agree, skip this step and be prepared to disconnect the battery quickly if the laptop automatically powers on. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    This did not work when running High Sierra.

    Kyle B - Replica

    Tried this on a 2018 MBP 13” Touchbar (there’s no iFixit guide for this model yet). Need to replace a broken screen.

    Luckily I managed to connect to an external screen (Cmd-Down Brightness to switch displays) and enter above command. Seems to work, but there’s another problem with this model - it powers up as soon as any key is pressed……. ffs <gnashes teeth>

    Cool_Breeze - Replica

    I unscrew the battery first and wrap electrical tape over the logic board battery connector before attempting any repairs to the board. Haven’t had any problems yet and I’ve worked on about 10 of these models already. Also when you open the bottom case use a suction cup at the bottom and pull up then run a plastic spudger along the edges to disconnect the clips. Also only use a plastic spudger on the board. Saw a youtube video from a repair shop and he did not disconnect the power and used all metal tools during the entire process of removing the board. His last step was to disconnect the battery terminal.

    Brian - Replica

    Is this step necessary if my mac can turn on? Battery fully dead(

    Nursat b - Replica

    BEFORE YOU START: The included torx head stripped off before I was done (and you might need an additional T4) so stop now and go buy a good one. Also they fail to warn you above to get some blue threadlocker ahead of time.

    Jason Sherron - Replica

    • Completely power off and unplug your MacBook Pro before you begin. Close the display and flip the entire laptop upside-down.

    • Use a P5 Pentalobe driver to remove six screws securing the lower case, of the following lengths:

    • Four 4.7 mm screws

    • Two 6.6 mm screws

    • Note the orientation of the screws as you remove them—they need to be reinstalled at a slight angle.

    • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your device.

  2. Press a suction handle into place near the front edge of the lower case, between the screw holes. Lift up on the suction handle just enough to open a small gap under the lower case.
    • Press a suction handle into place near the front edge of the lower case, between the screw holes.

    • Lift up on the suction handle just enough to open a small gap under the lower case.

  3. Slide the corner of an opening pick into the gap you just created underneath the lower case. Slide the opening pick around the nearest corner and then halfway up the side of the MacBook Pro. This releases the first of the hidden clips securing the lower case. You should feel and hear the clip pop free.
    • Slide the corner of an opening pick into the gap you just created underneath the lower case.

    • Slide the opening pick around the nearest corner and then halfway up the side of the MacBook Pro.

    • This releases the first of the hidden clips securing the lower case. You should feel and hear the clip pop free.

  4. Repeat the previous step on the opposite side, using your opening pick to release the second clip. Repeat the previous step on the opposite side, using your opening pick to release the second clip. Repeat the previous step on the opposite side, using your opening pick to release the second clip.
    • Repeat the previous step on the opposite side, using your opening pick to release the second clip.

  5. Lift the front edge of the lower case (the side opposite the display hinge) just enough to slide your fingertips underneath and get a good grip on it.
    • Lift the front edge of the lower case (the side opposite the display hinge) just enough to slide your fingertips underneath and get a good grip on it.

    • Two additional hidden clips near the middle of the cover may pop free at this point, if they haven't already.

    • Don't lift very far and don't try to remove the lower case yet.

  6. Pull the lower case firmly towards the front of the MacBook (away from the hinge area) to separate the last of the clips securing the lower case. Pull first at one corner, then the other. Pull to the side—not up.
    • Pull the lower case firmly towards the front of the MacBook (away from the hinge area) to separate the last of the clips securing the lower case.

    • Pull first at one corner, then the other.

    • Pull to the side—not up.

    • This may require a lot of force.

    This step drew blood. Darn you Apple!

    Kyle B - Replica

    I found it easier to insert a screwdriver through the hole (not too far down), and use that to pull sideways, as it was hard to get a strong grip with my fingers.

    Athanassios Diacakis - Replica

    If you have a black stick, or a nylon probe tool, you can insert it at the back at the point closest to the screw holes, and use that to push the lower case forward. I’ve seen this help me quite a few times, and it makes it quite easier.

    Adrian Brown - Replica

    I like adrianbrown's suggestion. Spot on!

    wmetzgerusa - Replica

    Its difficult if the side catches arent released properly, check them again if it seems too much.

    tonygreenfield - Replica

    I snapped one of the spring loaded logic board grounding pins. Take your time. Leverage from the back in order to push it out versus pulling on it.

    stevanuscg - Replica

    Take the opening pick and stick the edge down behind the hinge all the way to one side, so it is perpendicular to the case, and give it a twist. That end should pop free. Do the same on the other side and there you go.

    Indawg Wetrust - Replica

  7. Remove the lower case. To reinstall the lower case:
    • Remove the lower case.

    • To reinstall the lower case:

    • Set it in place and align the sliding clips near the display hinge. Press down and slide the cover toward the hinge. It should stop sliding as the clips engage.

    • When the sliding clips are fully engaged and the lower case looks correctly aligned, press down firmly on the lower case to engage the four hidden clips. You should feel and hear them click into place.

  8. Peel up and remove the large rectangular battery board cover, on the edge of the logic board nearest the battery. If the cover doesn't peel up easily, apply mild heat with an iOpener, hair dryer, or heat gun to soften the adhesive underneath, and try again.
    • Peel up and remove the large rectangular battery board cover, on the edge of the logic board nearest the battery.

    • If the cover doesn't peel up easily, apply mild heat with an iOpener, hair dryer, or heat gun to soften the adhesive underneath, and try again.

    • If the cover doesn't seat securely during reassembly, try rotating it 180 degrees. It must be oriented correctly in order for the adhesive pads underneath to contact the board screws.

    What is the though behind this step? I have replace my trackpad before, and I did not do this step. At the time, there was no guide. As a result, I’m wondering how this changes/or if it is necessary for the repair process.

    Anthony Bleyer - Replica

    It’s necessary in order to disconnect the battery. Always disconnect the battery before making repairs.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I found my one of my fan making some noise, when open the bottom of my Mac I see this piece floating over the fan. Trying to put it back where it goes but don’t seem to stick anymore and move around. Does this piece is really necessary or I can simply remove it or order a new one from you?

    Alexandre Bolduc - Replica

    It should be pretty easy to reattach. Put a dab of rubber cement or a bit of double-sided tape on top of each of the screws underneath the cover, press the cover down, and close up your MacBook. It should stay put. Don’t use superglue or anything else that will harden over the screw heads and make it impossible to fit a driver in there later.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Do you know if this piece is necessary. I lost mine.

    scoop scoop - Replica

  9. Peel back the tape covering the battery board data cable connector. The tape may not detach completely; just peel it back enough to access the connector.
    • Peel back the tape covering the battery board data cable connector.

    • The tape may not detach completely; just peel it back enough to access the connector.

    Wow, mine peeled up from the board. Now I have some board level soldering. Any part number on the connector for this cable on the board.

    Mark Mata - Replica

    I second that; does anybody know where this battery board data cable connector can be purchased?

    Tim - Replica

    The replacement battery did not come with the “tape” in this cable so it was very difficult to reinsert the cable into the zif socket. Now I can’t get the replacement battery to charge.

    J D - Replica

    I have the same issue, My battery is not charging. Did you figure out how to get your battery to charge?

    Jeremy Smith -

    In my case, the original replacement was faulty. iFixIt sent an RMA without hesitation, and I am happy to report that the new one works fine. But also recheck this step and steps 13/14.

    J D -

    Note that the tape covering that comes on the OEM battery is not included in the battery sent from iFixIt. I removed it from the old and attached it to the new, but it does not “re-stick” very well, so it’s rather difficult to re-insert. Be careful, the ribbon is fragile.

    J D - Replica

  10. Use a spudger to gently pry up the locking flap on the ZIF connector for the battery board data cable. Use a spudger to gently pry up the locking flap on the ZIF connector for the battery board data cable. Use a spudger to gently pry up the locking flap on the ZIF connector for the battery board data cable.
    • Use a spudger to gently pry up the locking flap on the ZIF connector for the battery board data cable.

    Mein Sicherungsbügel ist abgebrochen, oder zumindest nicht mehr auf dem ZIF-Stecker. Ist dieser Sicherungsbügel sehr wichtig, oder kann ich das Kabel dennoch zurück stecken?

    Fabio Jock - Replica

    Sie sollten in der Lage sein, das Kabel wieder anzuschließen und mit einem guten Klebeband abzudichten.

    mark - Replica

    My zif connector was already open. It apparently never got closed during manufacture. Being so tiny this made it difficult to see why there was nothing to pry up with the spudger. Once I put my finger on top of it I realized the flap was already verticle.

    Ian Simmons - Replica

  11. Disconnect the battery board data cable by sliding it out from its socket. Slide parallel to the logic board, in the direction of the cable.
    • Disconnect the battery board data cable by sliding it out from its socket.

    • Slide parallel to the logic board, in the direction of the cable.

    If this breaks, what’s the risk to the computer?

    Jose Lopez - Replica

    I tried powering mine on after my zif connector socket broke. It made bad electrical noises. I had water damage at one point and cleaned the unit very well but never replaced the battery. Through excesive, a hot and bad battery, or water damaged weakening the area mine came right off with the tape when i peeled it up. Im working on finding the part and will attempt to solder it back. Of course i still need a battery which ours was swollen. After water damage it worked great for over a year though.

    Mark Mata - Replica

    Mine broke and now the Macbook will not power on, this was after a battery replacement, the Macbook powered up afterwards, but after transporting it, it would not power up. I removed the back cover and noticed the battery board cover was missing and the zif gate for the battery data connector was half off.

    Charles Braxton - Replica

    Same here, I broke the cable which was soldered on the mainboard. I tried to hold it on place with a tape, but I couldn‘t charge my macbook though. Then I tried to solder it and I also failed. I wish I had read the comments before :/

    Sebastian Fritsch - Replica

    I couldn‘t find the fpc 6 pin connector with 0,5 mm grid. However I managed to connect the flex cable directly on the mother board with 0,3 mm isolation filament! It was tough but I‘m so happy that it works again :)

    Sebastian Fritsch - Replica

    Would you be able to give a little instruction on how you were able to make this work? I’m super curious and need a solution to the same issue.

    Tim -

    Anybody know where this connected can be purchased? Mine completely snapped to pieces the moment I touched it.

    Tim - Replica

  12. Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the 3.7 mm pancake screw securing the battery power connector. Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the 3.7 mm pancake screw securing the battery power connector.
    • Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the 3.7 mm pancake screw securing the battery power connector.

  13. Use a spudger to gently lift the battery power connector, disconnecting the battery. Lift the connector high enough to keep it separated from its socket while you work. If it accidentally makes contact, it could damage your MacBook Pro.
    • Use a spudger to gently lift the battery power connector, disconnecting the battery.

    • Lift the connector high enough to keep it separated from its socket while you work. If it accidentally makes contact, it could damage your MacBook Pro.

    I tossed a piece of tape on the connector just to be safe.

    Kyle B - Replica

    wondering if i didn’t heed this warning close enough. mac not powering on. only black screen with battery and lightning bolt beneath it. What happens if this connector makes contact?

    ONYCHA HAZEL - Replica

    im in the exact same boat right now.

    Was everything okay in your case?

    Anthony Gasbarro -

    Mine will power on, but will not charge.

    J D - Replica

  14. Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 3.5 mm screws securing the cover on the display board flex cable. Remove the display board flex cable cover. Remove the display board flex cable cover.
    • Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 3.5 mm screws securing the cover on the display board flex cable.

    • Remove the display board flex cable cover.

    I have T4 sized here. Same with a lot of the other ones. Make sure your driver fits snugly!

    Mac Daddy - Replica

    Its a t4! Not a t3!

    Gary Esser - Replica

    Which one is the back light? Anybody know?

    Gary Esser - Replica

  15. Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.7 mm screws securing the bracket for the display board cable connector. Remove the bracket from the display board cable connector. Remove the bracket from the display board cable connector.
    • Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.7 mm screws securing the bracket for the display board cable connector.

    • Remove the bracket from the display board cable connector.

    I had a problem with the display and I managed to solve it by disconnecting the display board flex cable and connecting it back. It worked for a while, until the first restart of the laptop, again display became inoperable.

    When I tried to do the same thing, I realized that this bracket is missing. Most likely I lost it when I first worked on it.

    Could be this piece the reason why the display stopped working after the restart?

    I ask because I try to eliminate every step in finding the source that is causing this problem at the moment.

    Thank you!

    Lei Mi - Replica

    A lot of these are actually T4, not T3, so be sure to use the right bit. It should fit snugly.

    Mac Daddy - Replica

  16. Pry straight up with your spudger to disconnect the display board flex cable. Pry straight up with your spudger to disconnect the display board flex cable.
    • Pry straight up with your spudger to disconnect the display board flex cable.

    Are parts (cover and bracket) from Step 15 and 16 required in order the display to work?

    MiniMe - Replica

  17. Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 2.0 mm screws securing each hinge cover (four screws total). Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 2.0 mm screws securing each hinge cover (four screws total).
    • Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 2.0 mm screws securing each hinge cover (four screws total).

    Thanks for sharing. Emus4u app is the best app, I love this app. Emus4u easy to download all game chats app and emulators apps. This app has advantages to download the free cost of app and quality and quantity apps. Emus4u apps design for PC, ISO devices, and Android. All the apps including the paid ones that you see in the official app stores are available for free using Emus4u. There is a lot to explore in the app store. I really enjoy this app Click more information Emus4u

    jinn dev - Replica

    ^ Clearly there needs to be a report button on comments because of shithead spammers like jinn dev

    John M - Replica

  18. Remove both hinge covers. Remove both hinge covers. Remove both hinge covers.
    • Remove both hinge covers.

  19. Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the single 2.9 mm screw securing the antenna cable bundle. Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the single 2.9 mm screw securing the antenna cable bundle.
    • Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the single 2.9 mm screw securing the antenna cable bundle.

  20. Disconnect all three antenna cables by prying each one straight up from its socket. Slide your tweezers or the flat end of your spudger underneath each cable until it's near the socket, and then gently twist or pry up to disconnect it. To reconnect each cable, align the connector directly over its socket, and then press down so it snaps into place.
    • Disconnect all three antenna cables by prying each one straight up from its socket.

    • Slide your tweezers or the flat end of your spudger underneath each cable until it's near the socket, and then gently twist or pry up to disconnect it.

    • To reconnect each cable, align the connector directly over its socket, and then press down so it snaps into place.

  21. Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the four 3.3 mm screws securing the display board. Before reinstalling these screws: Make sure the display board flex cable lies on top of the board, not trapped underneath.
    • Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the four 3.3 mm screws securing the display board.

    • Before reinstalling these screws:

    • Make sure the display board flex cable lies on top of the board, not trapped underneath.

    My model uses T3 screws here, not T5. FYI if this is a typo. Thanks for the great guide!

    enricolimcaco - Replica

    IF when you are putting your new screen in, and it looks different than this picture, make sure you routed the cable properly, with respect to the antenna you just reinstalled. Its very easy to route the display cable around the antenna the wrong way and have a bit of extra cable flapping around when you are done. It should look nice and tight like this pic shows.

    Mac Daddy - Replica

    Also, enricolimcaco is right. These screws are T3, not T5

    Mac Daddy - Replica

    Make sure you pay attention to which screws you remove here! I removed the 2 next to these 2 that hold in that metal plate and then couldn’t figure out why my antenna would not come out!

    Christopher Meats - Replica

  22. Use a P2 Pentalobe driver to remove the sixteen 1.5 mm screws securing the antenna assembly. Use a P2 Pentalobe driver to remove the sixteen 1.5 mm screws securing the antenna assembly.
    • Use a P2 Pentalobe driver to remove the sixteen 1.5 mm screws securing the antenna assembly.

    FYI the right side screws came up without a problem. the right side ones…only half could be loosened without stripping. I had to drip WD40 on the screws and use a hand drill with a brass bit to bore out the pentalobe heads… and get it nice and flat, so I could use a screw extractor kit + sacrificial 1.4mm flathead screwdriver and tweezers to drive and pull out the rest. Anybody know where to buy spare 1mm P2 screws, or the Philips equivalent? Otherwise I will distribute the good screws between the two antenna arrays. Hit me up at enrico.limcaco@gmail.com if you have any leads :)

    enricolimcaco - Replica

    Same problem. All but the very last one. Which now makes me think I should’ve left a few of the other ones in and taking it out first. Maybe it’s causing too much torque on that last screw. ?

    Chris Leeds - Replica

    I made the mistake of buying a cheap ebay P2 Pentalobe. It stripped out after the first screw, even though I was slow and careful. 2nd time bought the iFixit brand from Germany and a little WD40 to easily get all 16.

    Jimmy D - Replica

    I had to be VERY careful with these. More than any other screws. The first 4 wanted to strip out on my. Started to be WAY more careful, and apply way more pressure and was able to get them all out. A combination of not being careful enough on the first ones and having a cheap toolkit almost got me in big trouble!

    Christopher Meats - Replica

    The secret to these is to lightly twist the P2 to make sure it’s fully engaged. Once it is, then push straight down (very very) firmly on the screw as you turn it counter clockwise and it will come right out.

    Do the same but clockwise when you reinstall and you won’t strip a thing.

    Corey Mack - Replica

    The secret to this is, don’t buy the iFixIt toolkit. Most of it’s alright but the P2 bit is too brittle and stripped itself after removing only two screws. Borrowed my brother’s Tekton set and had ZERO issues.

    Sean Zubrickas - Replica

    Sorry to hear this—for whatever it’s worth, this is the exception rather than the rule! iFixit bits carry a lifetime warranty. Reach out to customer service and they can ship you a replacement bit, free of charge. I’ve done hundreds of repairs with the same set of bits; haven’t yet had any of them strip or break. Better luck on your next repair!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I had a problem using the ifixit tool kit to remove the 16 antenna screws (striped one badly) so i ordered the Wiha drivers from Germany and found the ONLY bit that would fit and thus remove (press down firmly while rotating driver) the pentalobe screws was the 1PLx40 driver, not the 2PL as many have said here. 2PL was just too big to even fit in the screw head.

    Robert DiIorio

    robert - Replica

    I had some real issues with these screws. It was because the P2 bit was stripped somehow. iFixit was super helpful!!! They replaced the bit and the new bit worked perfectly. Only stripped one screw. Thanks iFixit!

    KeithMelara - Replica

  23. Use an opening pick to pry up the antenna assembly and separate it from the MacBook Pro. Watch out for the delicate ribbon cables in the middle section. Avoid sliding the pick from side to side so as not to damage the cables. Watch out for the delicate ribbon cables in the middle section. Avoid sliding the pick from side to side so as not to damage the cables.
    • Use an opening pick to pry up the antenna assembly and separate it from the MacBook Pro.

    • Watch out for the delicate ribbon cables in the middle section. Avoid sliding the pick from side to side so as not to damage the cables.

    How do I properly reinstall the antenna assembly during reinstallation?

    ase310 - Replica

    This did not need much prying for me. Could almost lift it out by hand once all the proper screws were removed. Make sure to remove the correct 4 middle screws from step 22 or you will be prying trying to figure out why it wont come out!

    Christopher Meats - Replica

  24. Carefully remove the antenna assembly, while simultaneously feeding the antenna cable bundle out from underneath the heat sink. During reassembly, gently pinch the cable bundle together and guide it under the heat pipe into the correct position on the board. If needed, use your tools to help guide it through, but don't force it. During reassembly, gently pinch the cable bundle together and guide it under the heat pipe into the correct position on the board. If needed, use your tools to help guide it through, but don't force it.
    • Carefully remove the antenna assembly, while simultaneously feeding the antenna cable bundle out from underneath the heat sink.

    • During reassembly, gently pinch the cable bundle together and guide it under the heat pipe into the correct position on the board. If needed, use your tools to help guide it through, but don't force it.

    I took a short piece of scotch tape and “bundled” the 3 cables together. I kept The screw loop out of the taped bundle. I was able to push the bundle thru the hole including the loop. Using tweezers helped grab the bunch and pull them thru.

    lamajr - Replica

    Watch out when re-assembling to get the ribbon cables back under the antenna.

    tonygreenfield - Replica

    PLEASE Consider Tonygreenfield’s comment. I ended up having to take the whole computer a part because I reassembled the laptop with cables on the wrong side of the antenna!

    Corey Mack - Replica

  25. Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the four 3.9 mm screws securing the display cable cover springs. Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the four 3.9 mm screws securing the display cable cover springs.
    • Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the four 3.9 mm screws securing the display cable cover springs.

    Mine are T4. Make sure your bit fits snugly!

    Mac Daddy - Replica

    Take care to replace these correctly. It is easy to put the film over the top of the black hinge holder.

    Geoff Kayum - Replica

  26. Use a T8 Torx driver to remove two 4.9 mm screws from each hinge (four screws total). Each hinge has a third screw, which you should leave in place for now.
    • Use a T8 Torx driver to remove two 4.9 mm screws from each hinge (four screws total).

    • Each hinge has a third screw, which you should leave in place for now.

    TR8 if you have the pro tech toolkit

    stmfwc - Replica

  27. During reassembly, first install the hinge screws without tightening them. Then adjust the screen until it is correctly centered and aligned on each side. Finally, tighten the screws. If your screen clicks or snaps upon opening, loosen the hinge screws and adjust the alignment. Make sure the screen doesn't sit too far forward, or it can catch on the body when opening and closing. If desired, add a little blue threadlocker to the screw threads to prevent them from loosening over time.
    • During reassembly, first install the hinge screws without tightening them. Then adjust the screen until it is correctly centered and aligned on each side. Finally, tighten the screws.

    • If your screen clicks or snaps upon opening, loosen the hinge screws and adjust the alignment. Make sure the screen doesn't sit too far forward, or it can catch on the body when opening and closing.

    • If desired, add a little blue threadlocker to the screw threads to prevent them from loosening over time.

  28. If you plan to re-use your screen, open it and apply a piece of tape to the glass directly above each hinge. This helps protect the glass from getting scratched in the following step. Fully open the screen and stand your MacBook Pro up on one side.
    • If you plan to re-use your screen, open it and apply a piece of tape to the glass directly above each hinge. This helps protect the glass from getting scratched in the following step.

    • Fully open the screen and stand your MacBook Pro up on one side.

  29. Use a T8 Torx driver to remove the two remaining 4.9 mm hinge screws (one from each hinge). Remove the topmost screw last, using one hand to steady both halves of the MacBook Pro to make sure they don't separate and fall over unexpectedly. Remove the topmost screw last, using one hand to steady both halves of the MacBook Pro to make sure they don't separate and fall over unexpectedly.
    • Use a T8 Torx driver to remove the two remaining 4.9 mm hinge screws (one from each hinge).

    • Remove the topmost screw last, using one hand to steady both halves of the MacBook Pro to make sure they don't separate and fall over unexpectedly.

  30. Keep a firm grip on both the screen and main body of the MacBook Pro. Either half can fall unexpectedly during this step. Push both halves of the MacBook Pro together so that the hinges can be lifted clear of their recesses in the chassis. Push the main body of the MacBook Pro away from you while pulling the screen toward you to separate it.
    • Keep a firm grip on both the screen and main body of the MacBook Pro. Either half can fall unexpectedly during this step.

    • Push both halves of the MacBook Pro together so that the hinges can be lifted clear of their recesses in the chassis.

    • Push the main body of the MacBook Pro away from you while pulling the screen toward you to separate it.

  31. Remove the screen.
    • Remove the screen.

    Hi, great guide! I followed along to replace the screen assembly on my orange stained MBP!

    Only one minor correction, on step 16, the screws inside my unit (owned since new) were T4, not T3.

    Thanks!

    Mitch Stephenson - Replica

    È possibile cambiare solo la scocca in alluminio?

    marcello.paolucci60 - Replica

Conclusione

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Answers community for troubleshooting help.

Altre 24 persone hanno completato questa guida.

Jeff Suovanen

Membro da: 06/08/2013

317.018 Reputazione

255 Guide realizzate

Team

iFixit Membro di iFixit

Community

130 Membri

13.331 Guide realizzate

Many thanks for this excellent guide, Jeff.

I completed this two months ago and it went very well - fitted a new screen to replace a smashed one and it worked perfectly… until this week. Now I need some advice please!

The new screen has developed strange ghosting and freezing and vertical lines. It started gradually and has become unusable now. I know the installation was good because it worked. I’ve checked the connections and ribbon cables - all is well, undamaged and correctly-routed. The video chip & logic board seem good because an exrternal monitor displays fine and allows me to carry on working even when the MacBook screen is frozen.

Anyone ever come across this before? I suspect it’s a faulty screen, but the sypmtoms are strange so before sending it back and finding the replacement does the same thing, I want to explore any avenues I may have missed.

Many thanks,

Mousematt

Mousematt - Replica

Ouch! Your troubleshooting steps sound right to me—bad display would be my guess as well. Best of luck getting it sorted out!

Jeff Suovanen -

Thanks for sharing. Emus4u app is the best app, I love this app. Emus4u easy to download all game chats app and emulators apps. This app has advantages to download the free cost of app and quality and quantity apps. Emus4u apps design for PC, ISO devices, and Android. All the apps including the paid ones that you see in the official app stores are available for free using Emus4u. There is a lot to explore in the app store. I really enjoy this app Click more information

Emus4u

jinn dev - Replica

Great Guide! Thanks!!!

tyamashita - Replica

I completed the replacement by following this amazing guide about two months ago. The new display has been working great since then. However, last week I realised that my keyboard doesn’t have backlight anymore! Trying to adjust the backlight brightness gives the icon that there is no backlight.

Is there any possibility I disconnected something relating to the keyboard backlight during this display replacement?

Thanks!

Arne - Replica

A breeze until you get to the display cables and sliding them through the tiny hole that leads the cables under the heat sink and onto the logic board. We gently pry the heat sink up (be careful not to bend too far as it could cause heat sink issues) then use iFixit tweezers to pull the 3 cables through the tiny hole and onto the logic board.

Ted Teske - Replica

Thanks for this excellent guide. I would never have believed I could do something this complicated, but your clear pictures and instructions guided me through it. There was just one problem - I had to stop and send off for a T3 screwdriver in the middle of the job. I should have checked the list of tools against what I had more carefully!

Paul Boocock - Replica

I just replace on 2016 15” screen from another MBP 2016 with motherboard damage, the computer starts well but after introducing a password ask for an update on software, and it will not finish the update and it will not start up completely. if I reattach the old one the computer starts normally. I have talked to apple and nothing. I have installed the system form cero, I have done all the pram, etc. I have started from an external hard drive and still the same ask me for internet connection and it will try to download something but without any luck.

I have to reattach the old one and stay with the broken screen.

I believe it is the serial number of the screen, so I am going to actively read the serial number and paste it on the other screen. I am waiting for the device to do it.

if anyone has any insight let me know.

sergiocb - Replica

Thank you so much for this excellent guide. It feels like I have a brand new laptop now. Buying the iFixit Pro tool kit was worth every penny too.

daithisound - Replica

Great guide; thanks Jeff.

I have not yet begun the replacement of the screen for my MBP as I would like to explore other options than the “nuclear'“ one.

In my case the hinges on my MBP are loose and the screen won’t stay upright unless I use a foreign object to keep it in place.

Recently Apple replaced the faulty keyboard on my MBP. While they did so, I asked them to look at the hinges and tighten them if possible. When I got the MBP back, Apple told me that the hinges were tightened but defective because of wear and tear.

So here my question: do you know if it is possible to replace the screen hinges only or is the only option to replace the entire screen? Do you know of (or can you think of) any other ‘elegant’ solution to provide resistance to the screen for it to remain in place when open?

Any and all insight/ guidance is much appreciated.

- G

Gregory - Replica

Thank you so very much for the guide! You guys are Awesome! I would ask that you mention something about those 16 1mm P2 screws ahead of step 23. My P2 bit was stripped and it stopped me dead in my tracks for the repair. Thank you again!

KeithMelara - Replica

Aggiungi Commento

Visualizza Statistiche:

Ultime 24 Ore: 52

Ultimi 7 Giorni: 353

Ultimi 30 Giorni: 1,619

Tutti i Tempi: 23,896