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Laptop take a tumble? Having trouble seeing through a jungle of cracks in your screen? Use this guide to replace your display assembly.

  1. Remove the following P5 pentalobe screws securing the lower case to the MacBook Pro:
    • Remove the following P5 pentalobe screws securing the lower case to the MacBook Pro:

    • Eight 3.0 mm

    • Two 2.3 mm

    To remove the back panel there are two different pentalobe screws 2.3mm and 3mm however on the tools list there is only one screwdriver. Will I be able to remove both screws with the same screwdriver?

    lantzero - Replica

    In my case it worked. Don't know if it was a 2,3 or 3 mm screwdriver

    Christian Mohr -

    The 2.0 and 2.3 mm measurements are screw lengths, the screw heads are the same sized P5 pentalobe heads. We include the screw lengths so you don't put the wrong screws in the wrong places and end up with screw heads poking out of your device. Hope that clears up some confusion =)

    Sam Goldheart -

    Yes the same screwdriver will remove both screws, the difference in screws I believe is the length and width but the head is the same.

    Mike -

    Just be careful to store the 2 shorter screws in a seperate space then the other 3mm screws.

    The first time I opened up my Macbook, I put the screws in the wrong order.

    Shahzad Arif -

    will this unit work with the Mid 2012 Macbook Pro Retina's as well?

    drscottgreenwell - Replica

    Same question...anyone know? Damaged my 2012 board and if possible would like to upgrade to this unit

    cloughenough -

    This works for rMBP 2012 late

    iyeori -

    Woohoo, much easier than I thought... Just got confused with the bottom case screw driver but after figure out it was P5 then everything went smooth.... One thing I wanted to upgrade was the wifi to ac and got one on ebay!

    didierma - Replica

    If you have 54 Bit Driver kit, please use Star 5 driver to remove screw for rMBP 2012 Late

    iyeori - Replica

    Where can I find the driver for the MacBook Pro Retina Display 15'4 i7 on your website iFixit please.

    Epifanio - Replica

    It took about 40 minutes due to an extreme measure of caution but I did it! The only real difficulty was reattaching the screen to the base (yes you have to pry the hinges open) and re-connecting the camera wires. After a few tries the camera wires finally came together. I'm hating Apple for all it's frailty and magical screws but I love ifixit!

    floyd - Replica

    Simple guide, but it solved my problem. Was wondering why the top two screws weren't going all the way down. Hadn't realized they were 0.7mm shorter.

    Emilio Mejia - Replica

    I have BootCamp running Win7 on my MBPwRetina15" 2013'Late. I run Visual Studio to build and run my Company's Application which is very CPU & NVidia (specific) intensive. So much so that during a build & run of app I was averaging about 85~95+Celcius!!! And every so often would reach 100Celcius!!! I could not take it anymore so I decided to delve into and re-apply Thermal Paste on the CPU/GPU. I ended up going with CooLaboratory Liquid Pro instead of the traditonal AS5. The original Thermal Paste was pure garbage,,, part of the CPU seemed like it was missing TP. I was scared to do this but it turned out easier than I had imagined. I am currently building the same application and can already observe that the temps average about 75~85 and once in a while will reach 90Celcius. So I am seeing about a 10~15 degree drop in Temps and that makes me very happy!

    Alvaro Suarez - Replica

    Nice to hear that, i was looking for that kind of information. I have a MBPwRetina 15 Mid 2012 and looking to obtain the best performance!

    Jose David Valle -

    Woa! Thanks dude! And you follow some guides here for the thermal paste? My mac 15’’ early 2013 heats up a lot but I’m a bit worried about touching anything

    Bert0ld0 -

    Good to list the bit needed to open the case: P6

    brian2burnett - Replica

    Much easier than expected. Sounds like several people had trouble with the backlight. It is possible that they damaged something by not first making sure to power down the computer completely with the “Shut Down” command. This should be step 1 before removing the back cover screws. Also as noted all the back cover screws are Apple Pentelope #5 bit, but 2 of the screws are shorter than the others. This bit is is hard to find in most stores. Buy it on line along with the Tork #5 and #8. 11/21/2017

    Walt Goede - Replica

    Replaced my Magsafe 2 yesterday and it works perfectly on my MBP 15” ea13. However, when I plugged in the charger I heard the startup sound twice and then I got to the login page where I realized the keyboard didn’t respond.

    So I thought I should restart the computer so I clicked ”shut down”. But the keyboard is dead. I can’t start it. I haven’t tried to use a USB-keyboard yet..

    Any ideas what may have caused this to happen and what component ”handles” the keyboard? Thanks

    /JD

    Jakob Dahlin - Replica

    Not sure if this has been listed.

    PRO TIPS from a non-pro:

    1 - Keep screws separated and labeled by step # and size.

    2 - Be very careful to get screws in properly threaded, its VERY easy to strip the ccrew holes and screws. Especially the case. Not that it happened to me…

    3 - It was impossible for me to get all the adhesive off the case from under battery, it left a lot on w/o issue (yet).

    4 - Make sure you have Aluminium Foil before starting!

    5 - Upgrade the SSD or HDD while your in there!

    erin - Replica

    Hi there, about advice no.4 Why should I bring Aluminium Foil? What is the purpose of using Aluminium Foil. Thank you.

    RR J -

    Do we remove the logic board purely to get the speaker enclosures out and away from the acetone? Or does it physically block getting the batteries out? Ie. if I wanted to risk the damage to the speakers, could I jump straight to step 34?

    Obviously I don’t want to melt the speakers, but I’m kinda weighing that risk against losing a screw or breaking a connector…

    Michael Ferenduros - Replica

    So I did take the risk and swapped out the battery without doing the logic-board + speaker removal.

    Before applying the acetone I put tape on the exposed sides of the speaker-enclosures as best I could - I wrapped the tape, sticky side out, around a card, slid it into the gap, and pressed it onto the speakers. And when applying the acetone, I squirted it as gently as possible onto the side of the battery and let it run down the side, which seemed to help avoid getting too much on the speakers.

    The speaker’s plastic turned white in the spots where the acetone touched it, but it looked like surface damage only. Otherwise it was a nice and smooth procedure.

    Your milage may vary, obviously.

    Michael Ferenduros -

    I changed the battery pack as well without removing the logic board etc. It helped, that the batteries already were swollen, thus access to the glue stripes was easier. It works, if you give a little tension, pulling a pack upwards, and then work with a small blade or knife, and cut the glue stripes. It may take a while, but much less time than dismantling the whole macbook. If you don’t hurry, and don’t apply too much force, you will not damage anything. Beside the 10 cover screws you only have to loose 2 screws for the battery connector. After removing the old pack I used Methanol to remove the glue. I prefer this solvent to Acetone, because it’s less or not harmful to plastic (however, no warranty, just my personal experience). I was able to finish the work in 40 minutes, although it was the first time I opened my Macbook. Well, I am an engineer, that helps, but with dismantling all boards it definitely would have taken double the time. And more risks to break a plug or make a mistake while reassembling.

    Heinrich Jung -

    Success. I needed to replace the right speaker. I thought I was ready at step 22 (you are able to replace the left speaker at this point… but but the right) To replace the right I continued thru step 29 but didn’t completely remove the motherboard. I just lifted it enough to remove and replace the right speaker cable.

    Read all of the comments and solved many problems. Thanks to I-fixit, Walter Galen and all who posted comments.

    Will Brecht - 03/02/2019

    Will Brecht - Replica

    1/2

    If you're taking the shortcut (nylon, wire…and no adhesive for battery removal (you'll def need to remove the adhesive once the battery pack is removed) things to note:

    1 The adhesive may still be pretty strong. Mine was and I broke several wires trying to do the cheese cutter move down the back of the middle two batteries

    2 if you're cheese cutting through the adhesive, when you get to the base, don't go too far. I did and severed the battery cell connector… disconcerting puff of smoke.

    Ruairi Kennedy - Replica

    2/2

    3 the you tube video dude was lucky not to have his two Central batteries adhered . Mine were stuck fast.

    4 don't forget about the two small T 5 screws to the left and right of the battery head board, just below the main battery connector.

    5 the Track Pad sits behind the two central batteries. The batteries are adhered to a flat plate that protects the Track Pad which is pretty resilient. You can do the cheese wire trick without cutting through anything you shouldn't. However be careful if you're using a spudger or other tool between the two centre batteries at the top of the T. This is where the Track Pad connector (its very flat and exposed) to the motherboard.

    6 seems obvious when it's written , but you will need the adhesive remover if you are interested in removing the adhesive. It's a work out.

    Ruairi Kennedy - Replica

    I just completed this successfully. The guide was great, and I recommend reading each of the steps’ comments, too. It is possible to cut out a majority of the steps outlined here if you’d rather not dismantle most of your laptop. As I’m a novice and this was the first difficult fix I’d ever tried, the idea of taking so many things apart — including removing the logic board — was a little scary. Everyone calculates risk and reward differently, but for me, the risk of removing the logic board for the reward of being able to remove the battery packs with adhesive remover was too great, so I opted to only do steps 1–4, 42–53 and removed the battery with one of the cards from iFixit’s kit. If you go this route, expect it to be a little frustrating & slow going — it took me around 20–30 minutes of slowly chipping away at the adhesive with only the card. There are other techniques out there (wire, fishing line, etc.) and I’d advise looking into them. Keep track of screws: tape, draw out diagrams, label them, etc.

    Jake Thornberry - Replica

    Hi. I got your beautiful guide and I got a toolkit, unfortunately not the ifix it and everything is ready to start the operation. But the P5 seems to be too big for the screws of my late 2013 a1398. Are there more than one types/ sizes of P5?

    Chrysovalantis Lamprianidis - Replica

    I only removed the 10 screws and the back panel, the 5 speaker’s screws (without removing the speakers), and the two battery screws, and managed to remove the battery package without undoing anything else. I used a member card (credit card type) to loosen the adhesives under the batteries.

    To remove the rest of the glue, I soaked it with something called Label Off from Biltema (Nordic). Finally, I used methylated spirit (rødsprit) to clean it all up and let it dry for 5 minutes before assembling the new battery pack.

    Andreas H. Parlow - Replica

    WAIT!.. STOP.

    iFixit has had a slew of defective batteries that they will require you take out and return (after gluing them in). Search on: "Battery percentage suddenly drops" here on this site. This process is 50 steps to get the new battery in, and another 50 to put all the parts back. For $199, Apple will do the whole repair, warranty it, and also replace the trackpad and the keyboard (because it's easier for THEM to do).

    Ifixit WILL NOT stand behind defective batteries unless you spend another 4-6 hours swapping in a new one. NOT. WORTH. IT. See posts here (Battery percentage suddenly drops from ~60% to 7%) on frustrated customer’s multiple attempts and class-action lawsuits.

    MFMauceri - Replica

    Hi,

    Do you have to mail in your laptop to get the battery replaced for $199?

    Thanks,

    RB

    Roshanda B -

    Alternative part suggestion(s) that worked for me:

    * Sintech NGFF M.2 nVME SSD Adapter Card for Upgrade 2013-2015 Year Macs(Not Fit Early 2013 MacBook Pro - https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01CWWAENG

    * Samsung 970 EVO 1TB NVMe M.2 Internal SSD (MZ-V7E1T0BW - https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07BN21...

    The adapter supports many common drives (though not all) and a few minor drawbacks, but otherwise has worked flawlessy for over a year.

    Harvey Thompson - Replica

    I have now replaced the battery and the dc-in board, and I still can’t get the battery to charge. I also bought a new magsafe power adapter. It appears all cables are connected, and the computer runs fine on the battery (until it runs out of juice, then I will be at a complete loss). No clue what to try next. Any suggestions? Thanks!

    matt rogers - Replica

    Why do you need to remove the entire logic board??? Seems like if you detach the appropriate cables, remove the speakers, that that should be enough. Removing the entire board doesn’t seem necessary - what am I missing?

    Sandwah - Replica

    What on earth are you talking about? This has nothing to do with the logic board.

    Trevor Picard -

    The speaker cables are routed under the logic board, or at least the right-side one is. I found that if you can undo the fastenings on one side of the logic board you MIGHT be able to lever it up and work the speaker wire out without taking the entire thing out.

    bobthrollop.redirect -

    MacBook Pro 15“ 2014:

    if the keyboard is connected nothing works. I disconnected the keyboard and the MacBook was starting automatically. An external usb keyboard is not working either. Is something on the logic board defective or is this failure (usb keyboard not working) because of the disconnected keyboard and the system is confused?

    any idea for this?

    ps: the battery is loading

    Pättes - Replica

  2. Lifting from the edge nearest the clutch cover, lift the lower case off the MacBook Pro.
    • Lifting from the edge nearest the clutch cover, lift the lower case off the MacBook Pro.

    • Set the lower case aside.

    Does anyone noticed that the bottom cover and the bottom case is actually linked with the black plastic near the battery?! After the first time you open the cover, it will be impossible to put it back to the original place. Does the critical?! Thanks a lot for informing

    jamiegan835 - Replica

    I was able to simply push and click those clips back into place before I did the screwing.

    Tim Peat -

    I truly believe this is placebo and the 10*C difference is because in the process the dust was removed from the fan/heat sink rather then the thermal "magic" paste.

    This is a "PC" habit.

    On the other hand, all the cases and protections out there have a bad effect on cooling (not sleeves or pouches) because the whole aluminum body helps dissipate heat.

    I've never had any problems with any mac regarding heat (they do get hot, but it is OK).

    Whenever you feel heat from electronic device means the heat radiates away from it.. which means the cooling is doing a good job :).

    crus - Replica

    Hey,

    Writing about dust and dirt, do you know any cleaning products for the interior of the mac. i mean how do you clean your laptop, pc, etc..

    Regards

    Jose David Valle -

    This is untrue. Over time thermal paste will dry up and crack and not provide good coverage between the device and the cooler. The paste massively improves the thermal transfer between the chip and the heatsink. If you do not believe in the magic paste then you should wipe it all off and apply just a little bit or none at all and then compare temperatures. You will see the paste is responsible for a big reduction in temperature.

    Andrew Fox -

    I was able to remove all screws but lower case is not comming off easly. Is it glued to somthing?

    Thanks for help.

    c4rlosv8 - Replica

    There are two clips in the centre which simply unclip with a little force.

    Tim Peat -

    If you are following this how-to because liquid/coffee splashed in through the back vents, WAIT UNTIL THE END to clean any liquid spills on the bottom panel. Use them as your map for cleaning and QA guide for checking until you are finished with your cleanup of logic board and other items.

    auntialias - Replica

  3. Peel back the warning label covering the battery connector.
    • Peel back the warning label covering the battery connector.

    For rMBP 2012 Late, you don't need to remove this sticker.

    iyeori - Replica

    Have laptop charging issues after this. When fully charged and i plug in magsafe it starts with green, then turns red and stays red (like if it was charging). Status bar says NOT charging. If i use battery a little bit (down to 69%) magsafe does the same (green then stay red). Status bar says battery 69% NOT charging. and it seems to be true. Any suggestions?

    g000phy - Replica

    Double check the connection from the battery to the logic board and the logic board socket itself... Might have damaged by disconnect/reconnect.

    max damage -

    Why is this step necessary?

    67b5ebab - Replica

    67b5ebab Good question !

    Why is this necessary ?

    bigb19791979 - Replica

    This step is necessary to prevent any discharging, arcing, friction/static charges from damaging any of the extremely delicate and intricate parts of this (or most any) electrical system. In practice, you should even be wearing an anti-static band or be working on an anti-static bench even with the battery disconnected so your body doesn't create any unintentional charges.

    One of the first things you should learn in electronics repair and and electrical in general is to cut the power source whenever possible before performing any work. Some systems have schedulers/triggers set that will wake the system up (even when closed) to perform updates and other maintenance tasks as to not eat up CPU and RAM during 'peak hours'. The last thing you need is to have your $2,000 laptop turn on while pulling an SSD (which, correct me if wrong, isn't a plug-and-play based device) which could do some serious corruption and/or damage; when all you had to do was peel a sticker and plug.

    Hope that helps!!

    ~the more you know~

    Colin Devenney - Replica

    I did not peel back the sticker. It is probably there to help unplug the battery. You can apply a gentle constant pull while you use spudger to lift the battery connector out of the socket as per the next step. It made this very easy.

    Achilles - Replica

    There is another connector here on mine, just to the left and up above the text on the battery sticker. It is an empty ZIPF socket on all these photos.

    Richard C - Replica

    Let me stop you guys here. You can skip steps 5-35.

    That’s what I did without a problem.

    Go directly to step 35 after the next step. 5-35 is only so you have more room to pry the old battery off.

    If you are not keeping the old battery, then just pry it off with a flathead screwdriver.

    This is not a difficult fix.

    Chris - Replica

    Chris,

    Thank you for providing the advise to skip several steps. I agree that you will have ample space to remove the old battery without removing everything else. I would like to provide a small correction in your directions. You will need to go to step 34 to remove the two screws holding the battery cable versus directly to step 35. You will not be able to completely remove the battery without this step.

    Laurence Rooks -

  4. Using the flat end of a spudger, gently pry the battery connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board. Bend the battery cables back and out of the way, ensuring that the battery connector doesn't accidentally make contact with the logic board.
    • Using the flat end of a spudger, gently pry the battery connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Bend the battery cables back and out of the way, ensuring that the battery connector doesn't accidentally make contact with the logic board.

    I ordered the whole kit, but seeing how much tedious effort it was to take out so many parts so they wouldn't be damaged by the solvent, I skipped from here to step 34 and only used the supplied cards (credit-card sized) with patience and persistence to free the battery sections from the backing. Success! Then I used a q-tip to apply the solvent to remove the remnants of the adhesive from the aluminum case. My battery was very swollen, so it was like removing little pillows. I think the swelling may have helped to give me additional access with the cards to free it. Success! My MBP is back up and running, and now the trackpad clicks again and it sits flat on a table!

    Joel Replogle - Replica

    So no need basically to unscrew all the mac

    Bert0ld0 -

    Joel - the purpose of all of the trouble in removing the logic board is to make sure that you don’t damage anything when you start pull out the battery. After this step - it’s true, you have about 12 connectors and dozens of screws to unplug, but I didn’t have any major problems.

    REASSEMBLY - I had to use alot of force to get the official IFIXIT battery connect to push into place to actually connect. I was worried that one of the wires would stress and break. It worked, but it was not super easy this part.

    Jer - Replica

    I also skipped down to step 50. I stuck a piece of 1/2 inch weather stripping across the middle of the top cover of the laptop to maintain a pitch on the unit so the adhesive remover stayed away from the other components. I applied the remover and used a piece of string to cut through the adhesive strips. I owed the plastic tool from the kit to position the string behind the top of each cell and cut through one ata a time. The battery came out in about 15 minutes. The directions were very informative and useful but I thought the risks associated with dismantling the laptop and reassembling it again were greater. I could not have done it without the details presented. Thank you.

    Thomas Horan - Replica

    Having broken a connector on a logic board in the past, I worried about all the steps. But I understand the disaster that can occur if cleaning fluid contacts the logic board. Weighing costs and benefits, I also did not remove the logic board. I loosened up the speakers (since only two screws could be removed) to give me space to slide the cards under the battery cells. Using the two cards, sometimes sliding one over the other, I was able to remove the battery in 15- 20 minutes. Removing the remaining adhesive was VERY tedious. Eventually I settled on CAREFULLY applying small amounts of remover with the syringe and using the spudger (both pointy and broad ends) to scrape the remainders off. I cleaned the residual with Q-tips dipped in remover (buy a big box of Q-tips), refastened the speakers, installed the new battery, closed the case and voila.

    James Suojanen - Replica

    Question, on the first image above you can read a serial and other information ... The creator of the guide could you confirm if it corresponds exactly to the Apple serial on the box? I wonder why I had the laptop in assistance to replace the GPU, and other problems were born once I returned ... to which removed the cover I saw this sticker and I immediately had doubts about it.

    Antonino Auteri - Replica

    I too found the need to completely teardown the laptop onerous and risky. I’m not certified in anything hardware but I’ve been doing my own repairs for a while. I watched the video referenced above and read the comments there. With some changes, here is what I did, which worked perfectly and minimized the risk, for a whole additional $3 in parts, just myself and in under an hour:

    1. Go to hardware store and get 2 4” bolts ($1 each) and a coil of 20 gauage galvanized wire.

    2. Wrap one end of the wire a few times around one bolt, then tie it off with a knot. Do the same with the other bolt, leaving about 10” of wire between the two.

    3. Follow steps 1-4 in this guide

    4. Slip the wire under one of the outer batteries (use a card or spudger to help get the wire underneath

    5. Grip both bolts with one hand and rock them back and forth, pulling the wire under the battery, using your other hand to hold the case. This should take about 2 seconds (seriously). Repeat for other outer batteries

    (continued)

    steve - Replica

    6. Pull the plastic frames away from the left and right sides of the center batteries.

    7. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for the two center batteries.

    8. Jump to step 55, then reassemble.

    Note: when installing the new battery, ensure the part closest to you is UNDER the two plastic tabs.

    Worked perfectly.

    Link to video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fupkPz55...

    Note: using the nylon thread with that much effort is crazy. Use the wire or fishing line.

    steve - Replica

    cool.

    removed everything and have now 88% after 2 times calibrating and smc reset

    wouldn’t have liked to do everything again, but this seems like a possible solution :)

    Dennis Britsch -

    i just got my Kit and started the procedure, i decided to try if i can get the bulged batteries out with a fishing line, which worked fine. No need to use any solvent and even not too much force was needed to get the line under the batteries. I was able to remove the batteries in about 5min, used another 10min to clean the case from the residue, and put in the new battery. All togehter about 20min of work. I´m very happy with the result, Macbook stays now back on its feet, closes correctly and trackpad works as expected.

    manu - Replica

    Also departed from procedure immediately after STEP # 4 as per JOEL’s recommendation …used a small chunk of fishing line and it worked sans solvent…easily ! Spudger worked quite well to initially position the string /line & the ifixit ( ‘credit’ ) cards were nice for final dislodging of each battery segment from the last bits of residual gooey adhesive , AFTER working the fishing line back & forth down the length of the battery as much as possible. With the old battery out of the way, I used a razor blade to clean out the remaining bits of adhesive gunk. ( Decided NOT to use solvent here, either.) Took me every bit of 1-hour.

    One thing that helped ,too, was a cheap pair of cotton gloves coated on the palm side w/ latex. This kept my fingers comfortable from the pressure of the fishing line & allowed more of a range of force …since I wasn’t wincing from saw-cutting myself !

    John Joslin - Replica

    I skipped steps 5-33. These steps are completely unnecessary. I used the back of a flat tweezers to separate the battery from the case.

    support64 - Replica

    so the only reason they are taking all the stuff off before the battery is because of the solvent?

    I used cards and dental floss and just took the battery out … It was a pain in the butt but i got it out with out using the solvent remover solution.

    GR Verner - Replica

    I skipped steps from 5 to 33 and directlychanged the battery (before disassembling all). Worked fine.

    derdietrich - Replica

    I also skipped all the additional disassembly. I used cards and wire to cut through the adhesive quite easily. I also did not apply any tape on the new battery. The Mid-2014 laptop seems slim and tight enough to keep the cells from moving and the two screws at the power connector area seem to stabilize the connection and battery as a whole. Such STRONG tape seems unwarranted for the amount of squirm room in such a tight compartment.

    P.S. Remember, while you have it open, clean, clean, clean!!!

    jyee - Replica

    Thanks guys for all the tips. I followed the pragmatic way of cutting short and really taking battery out only. Thanks to the cards it worked well and none of the liquid made it to any other part of the computer. Put some efforts in to properly clean the remaining glue after battery was out - but looked good and this message comes from the old mid 2012 15” Retina modell - but with the new battery in - and all is fine. I am happy - thanks to the short cut encouragement.

    Jochen Färber - Replica

    Also skipped steps from 5 to 32. I used the supplied cards and a piece of string, i.e. braided nylon twine, (thickness 24). and used supplied acetone sparingly, mostly to the middle section. It took one and a half hours and another half hour or so for removing the leftover goo. It was demanding but not challenging, just take it slow and steady.

    jkobli - Replica

    Learnt a lot from former comments. Also skipped steps from 5 to 54. Used fishing line to cut through adjective by myself easily, but needed to put on glove to protect hands. I didnt order full package, so used nail polish remover and eraser to clean the base. Looks good and all is fine! Thanks to the short cut method!

    Gerry GU - Replica

  5. Use a spudger or tweezers to pry the three AirPort antenna cables straight up off of their sockets on the AirPort board.
    • Use a spudger or tweezers to pry the three AirPort antenna cables straight up off of their sockets on the AirPort board.

    • The cable connection points are fragile. Be careful to lift only on the connector, and not on the socket or cable.

    • To reconnect, align the connector carefully into position over the socket, and press it down firmly with the flat of your spudger.

    will this procedure remove my warranty? I have applecare for another 2 years, Laptop was dropped on the side, there is a very small dent on the side of I/O.

    Oleg Babko - Replica

    Yes, this voids your warranty.

    max damage -

    If I am facing the MacBook like I'm surfing or typing, this I/O board is referring to which side of the MacBook? Left or right side? How about replacing the other side of I/O board? The other side I/O port are part of LogicBoard? If I want to replace it, need to replace the whole LogicBoard? TQ.

    Delta - Replica

    These are notoriously difficult to remove. I actually damaged 2/3 of the connector pins during the process. Thankfully i was still able to fit them in place. This step should not be underestimated.

    Alvin Chua - Replica

    If you are not replacing the display case assembly, you can opt to leave all 3 connectors attached and remove the Airport card with them connected. You will need to carefully manage the card and attached cables so as not to damage them(masking tape) as you proceed with disassembly/reassembly. Step 6 will need to be done carefully (camera cable connector). I did it after step 8. I took a picture of routed cables as well before I removed them from channel.

    lamajr -

    I damaged 1/3 of these litte guys, how did you get them back together?!

    is there a way to replace the antenna?

    Fabian Schweinfurth - Replica

    unless you have really tiny fingers, a tweezer helps, just be careful not to damage the wires or the board as your holding each cable in place. Oh and take your time - this is like the most frustrating step in the process, imo.

    Arn Custodio - Replica

    The order of the cables doesn't seem to matter when re-attaching. It also might be helpful to unscrew and eject the airport card. Having it free can give you a better angle.

    joey - Replica

    Definitely the hardest step (when putting it back together). The three pins were on progressively longer plugs, so I put the shortest one on the left and so on. This helps with getting the right angle. I used my fingers and the spudger to guide them back in. It took me easily 10-15 minutes to do this. The pattern that worked eventually was to first adjust the angle of the pin head so that it's x/y/z axes would line up perfectly with the connection if you are able to bring it together just so. If you're off on any of these while you try to bring it together, you won't be able to just click it down at the end. Good luck!

    Thomas Kunjappu - Replica

    Agreed, for some reason, the middle one was stubborn — and I was worried the amount of force I applied to push it back on was going to break something - but it did pop back on.

    Jer -

    I would never remove those tiny plugs unless I absolutely have to. And we do not have to remove them, just the card itself…

    Jurgen -

    After reading so many reviews on ifixit and other sites regarding the difficulty of replacing my MacBook Pro retina screen assembly, I was a bit nervous. Using this walk through made it super easy. Thank you so much for taking the time to create it!

    cabcpa - Replica

    Removing these 3 tiny cables is completely unnecessary. I removed my fan last week to clean and it slips by these cables. For some dumb reason i wanted to follow this "correct" procedure and now one of the gold connections detached from the wire like it was nothing. Seriously, dont do this. I used a spunger and was very delicate putting it back on... And look what happened. SKIP!

    travismlive - Replica

    Yeah, I agree, just leave the airport card attached to the pins and remove the card itself. Then you won’t have to fuss with these connectors.

    Jer -

    @tmm Your right on! Just finished replacing my right fan and your tip saved me from messing with these tiny cables. I totally understand your frustration as I was too just about to stick to the procedure, but if it’s any comfort your tip helped someone… so don’t be surprised being rewarded by some good karma :)

    IT’S UNNECESSARY TO DETACH THE 3 TINY CABLES FROM THE CARD, JUST DETACH THE AIRPORT CARD WITH IT’S CABLES ATTACHED BY GRABING IT FROM BOTH SIDES USING TWO FINGERS AND GENTLY SHAKE IT UNTIL IT DETACHES. THEN MOVE THE WHOLE THING A BIT ASIDE.

    THIS STEP IS ONLY NECESSARY TO MAKE WAY TO THE FAN CONNECTOR UNDERNEATH.

    There is one thing though I find missing which concerns:

    1)The rubber heat sink cover

    2 The AirPort/Camera cables

    3)The IO board cable

    All these are “glued” to the fan and you need to peel them off gently using the spudger, now while I noticed that some glue remains on each cable so they will kinda stick again, I wonder what kind of glue is this and where one can buy it?

    Itai -

    These individual instructions are re-used across multiple tutorials. If you are replacing the battery, you probably won’t need to remove the three connections from the Airport card; if you are replacing the display, you definitely need to replace them, because they are connected to the display. I just replaced the battery and the display in a single activity, so I pretty much had to remove everything. Also agree with a previous commentor that it’s easier to reconnect the cables before the card is reconnected to the system board.

    ChrisMBP -

    travismlive is right, you do not need to remove these cables or the airport card. Just remove the I/O board cable, undo the screws, and detach the antenna cables from the fan where they are glued with a spudger. Unlock the ZIF-socket and the you can wriggle the fan out. Probably saved my airport card, thanks travismlive!

    Jasper - Replica

    I only successfully reattached 1 of the 3 AirPort cables, I just taped the other two. But the AirPort seems to work fine. Do these also have anything to do with Bluetooth though? I do seem to have trouble with Bluetooth after this operation. In any case, it was worth it... I replaced the screen with a new Apple screen for less than 1/2 the Apple Store wanted! Thanks!

    Douglas Johnston - Replica

    Would soldering them back in place be better than taping? I certainly don't want spare solder on my motherboard, so I figure that'd be a last resort only if I lose AirPort connectivity.

    Douglas Johnston - Replica

    Assembly is a nightmare. If rightmost cable is not connected, BT will not work.

    Radoslaw Przybyl - Replica

    the hardest step is reconnecting the airport antenna cables. just have patience< and use tweezers, spluger and a q-tip.

    Frederick Rae - Replica

    The three cables have different lengths. The longest should to the farthest pin, medium to middle, short to nearest.

    Sam Jomaa - Replica

    Also, having the right tools will make the job really easy. I used a spudger similar to the one recommended on this web site. But i had ordered a complete kit from amazon.com. I did not have any problem removing or re-attaching the pins.

    Sam Jomaa - Replica

    tweezers to hold the cable and the flat part of the spudger to push down on the connectors is the easiest way to re-assemble

    Jon Ocampo - Replica

    Replacing these were the most difficult step I encountered. I finally determined that it took slight back and forth twisting of the cable (from left to right as viewed from above) to cause the connector on the cable to twist into position so it could be pressed down.

    chuck60 - Replica

    I read your step and you are 100% correct. This helped me tremendously. Thanks!

    Achilles -

    Use leverage with tip of a spudger, it’s not that difficult to pry the cables.

    When you reassemble, use a tweezers to put the connector on the right position and push it down with a finger on the other hand.

    Grab the neck of the cable when using a tweezers.

    eskoo - Replica

    Several of the people above mentioned not disconnecting these three wires. You must remove and replace these if you are replacing the entire display which is what these instructions are about. This is the most difficult step as others have noted. Just be careful and make sure you have the cable level before you start pushing down.

    Walt Goede - Replica

    If you are not replacing the display case assembly, you can opt to leave all 3 connectors attached and remove the Airport card with them connected. You will need to carefully manage the card and attached cables so as not to damage them(masking tape) as you proceed with disassembly/reassembly. Step 6 will need to be done carefully (camera cable connector). I did it after step 8. I took a picture of routed cables as well before I removed them from channel.

    lamajr - Replica

    Reassembling: What makes this so hard? From all appearances I’m just pressing a squat sleeve-and-pin connector down onto the female counterpart. It appears to be circular and therefore not needing to be oriented radially in any particular angle. It doesn’t look hard at all! Does anyone understand what the subtlety is that causes everyone so much grief?

    Chapman Harrison - Replica

    Reassembling: as so many as commented, this is incredibly hard - and inexplicably so. From all appearances I’m just pressing a squat sleeve-and-pin connector down onto the female counterpart. It doesn’t look hard at all! But I couldn’t do it.

    Here’s what seems to have worked for me: with my left fingertip on the cable holding the connector directly above the female, I used the spudger to press down the flat back of the connector, initially at the top and then sliding along toward the neck. I used normal pressure, and voila, when I lifted the spudger away the wretched wire didn’t spring up again. It was like it wanted to be rocked, or stroked, once, from top to neck, rather than pressed straight down.

    Chapman Harrison - Replica

    I skipped to step 34. Just pushed up the speakers so that they don’t touch the body.

    Sascha Gl Richy - Replica

    I totally agree, this step is not tagged contrarely to others while it is the most dedicate !!! 1/ A warning should be added (the 31 comments should have done it…) 2/True it is possible to skip this step. Result for me : 1/3 damaged (the left one). Luckily, everything seems to work airport, bluetooth (so far, I haven’t tried Airdrop yet). Really disappointed by this guide is way below the iFixit’s standard…

    Antochny - Replica

    Can anyone help me? I would like to replace my speakers. Which steps can i skip?

    Manzil Monabber - Replica

    I have completed replacing my speakers and this step was not needed at all.

    Manzil Monabber - Replica

    I just completed the full screen assembly replacement with 90% success I guess. Like many others noted, this was the hardest step, and one them (leftmost) was extra hard, but I eventually got them all back in. However, I don’t have 5G wifi anymore. 2.4 g works fine, bluetooth works fine, and the screen, camera, and mic are all perfectly functioning. I just can’t connect to 5G wifi. Is there a fix for this?

    Aaron C - Replica

    Absolutely no need to take apart the whole thing, get some strong fishing line and slowly saw the adhesive away. Once the battery is out, (if you are prone to be clumsy just cover/ shield the rest of the computer, than use GOO GONE or the like waiting a couple minutes to scrape out the old adhesive. The only reason they make your take everything out is that they assume you are lazy and will be using the adhesive remover which could damage the rest of the computer if allowed to splatter etc. Just save your self some time and stress, get strong braided fishing line ( works way better than floss or string as it is of a smaller diameter and isn’t smooth and helps the sawing action), and work your way around each cell. This is still way shorter than removing the entire computer and much less likely hood of damaging sensitive connectors.

    Pia Paeh - Replica

    Putting these 3 cables back was a lot of work. I bent the outer side of the middle cable, but was able to fix it with fine tweezers from the repair kit.

    olegpsh - Replica

    I did a screen replacement recently using this guide and the disassembly/assembly was fine - very good instructions. But when I turned on the machine there was a very fine flickering, snow-like interference, especially noticeable on black backgrounds. I assumed it was a faulty replacement screen and continued to use it. Recently, I had to change out the battery so I dissasembled the screen again to see if reconnecting it would fix the problem. Now it is perfect. I think the problem was that the left-most (shortest) airport cable connector was touching the black screw next to it on the board and shorting out. Be careful to position this connector well away from that screw.

    rumblefish - Replica

    I found placing the spunger under the part of the connectors AWAY FROM THE WIRE (top and/or side depending on which of the three you’re finessing), and then rocking them gently from side to side pops them out gently.

    MFMauceri - Replica

    I read the note above and managed to fold the card out of the way. I’d put it in a paper envelope to stop it touching anything as it flaps around. The bag also stops static build up and reminds you it’s there ! The wires on mine were held down with two strips of tape, the pointed spudger? pushed along the length of the wires widened the tape loop when I pushed firmly but carefully. Once widened, tweezers can open it fully .

    Simon Anthony - Replica

    I skipped the step of removing the airport antenna cables and removed the airport card with the cables since so many users said it was extremely hard to get the airport cables back on properly. By skipping the airport cable removal I save a lot of potential headaches and performing this task was not any more difficult to do.

    Timothy McDaniel - Replica

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  7. Use the tip of a spudger to push the camera cable connector toward the fan and out of its socket on the logic board.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to push the camera cable connector toward the fan and out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Be sure to push parallel to the board, first on one side, then the other, to slowly "walk" the connector out of its socket. Do not pry up, or you will damage the socket.

    I've broken camera connection socket, is it repairable?

    Sergey - Replica

    Same for me too just take the socket from your broken screen and cut it off and solder it onto the new screen. It was really hard because it's so small but I did it.

    bhayes9614 -

    This is much easier if you do step 7 first so you can pull lightly on the cable and take the tension off the connection caused by the stiff cable.

    mayer - Replica

    This tip worked for me.

    eskoo -

    If you are removing the right fan it is not necessary to unplug the camera cable. You can slip the fan out underneath the cable.

    noahtfu - Replica

    Hi! Camera flex cable is from MBP Retina Mid 2012 & Early 2013. Not Late 2013 :) Edit it please.

    kramerigor - Replica

    the tip of the middle 3 wire was broken on the replacement screen. I didn't connect it and everything seems to work fine, mac hardware test says everything is fine... Is it possible?

    micheleroger - Replica

    Yes. They are wifi antenna cables. Missing one antenna won't affect much, and won't show up in any hardware test.

    Jason Amri -

    Push on the little wings, from right to left.

    Julian Wood - Replica

    This is the hardest part of disassembly! Arguable hardest part of re-assembly too, other than the airport cables

    Jon Ocampo - Replica

    The instruction is not clear to me at all. Frankly the comments mentioning things make me uneasy about proceeding further.

    Ben Moore - Replica

    This came off for me - now my computer’s fan is running high constantly, and “Kernel_task” is using 500% of the CPU even though nothing else is running - what can I do?

    Ryan Brown - Replica

    Did you ever get the fan to stop? how?

    Cyd Trice -

    It is very important to note here that you are NOT pushing up. You are pulling the cable back toward the fan. Doing step 7 first makes that easier. I misunderstood the instruction here (as others seem to have as well) and broke this part. I’m fine with not having a camera on this computer so I’ll leave it or ask my son to help me solder it later.

    Jen Wells - Replica

    can you give guidance on the soldering? Im new to it and dont want to burn anything / especially the wrong thing!

    Cyd Trice -

    The wing closed to the edge of the chassis is completely stuck. I’ve worked on it for an hour. The other wing moves freely. I’m not sure what to do now.

    Charles Lindauer - Replica

    The connector is very tight - I couldn’t even see the join between cable end and the socket and couldn’t see the “ears” on the end of the socket. And, of course, pulling didn’t help. I eventually used tweezers to start things off, gripping on the metal of the socket right where the invisible join was. What a delight to have the join open enough to see! After that, it was easy.

    jerryl - Replica

    Thank You Jerryl - The tweezers did the trick. They want to pop out so you can use your other hand to apply slight downward pressure to keep them in place. Work both ends of the tweezers gently back and forth and you should start to see the gap get bigger.

    Chuck Barton - Replica

    I used tweezers and the spudger. Take the point of the spudger and push on one side of the “dog ear” while supporting the other side with the closed tweezers on the cable side of the dog ear. (Could use a second spudger) work one side the move to the other repeatedly until the connection disconnects.

    This is allows You to push and support simultaneously and minimize the chance damaging the connector.

    Jonathan Dowling - Replica

    Removed cover (Step 7). Released adhesive. Pulled directly out of socket to the left.

    Pushing out of this connector is ill advised, as no mechanical ledge to push.

    Joseph Gorse - Replica

    The late 2013 Macbook connector is slightly different to the picture, I used tweezers to loosen up first and when the joint appeared used the flat edge of the spludger to push the connector using the gap. Don't rush push this from each side gently till it comes out.

    Lanre O - Replica

    I found this step to be difficult due to the picture and instructions being incorrect for MacBook Late 2013. Unfortunately, I damaged the pins during this step and my camera no longer works. :^( Please update this step.

    Cristina Stoll - Replica

    @xtstoll I looked at two separate Late 2013 units today, and both are indistinguishable from what’s shown in the instructions. Are you sure you’re working on the right model? A photo of what this cable looks like on your laptop would be helpful.

    Jeff Suovanen - Replica

    A MAGNIFYING GLASS really helps on this. The cable’s sheathing may need to be pushed back a tad to find a place to get leverace to work the pin out.

    MFMauceri - Replica

    DO FIRST

    STEP 7 : Untight the rubber heat sink cover on the right fan.

    Lift the cover and flip it back so that you can access the cables underneath.

    STEP 8 : Carefully de-route the cables from the plastic cable guide.

    So you can easily disconnect the connector.

    KRIS - Replica

    Tweezers saved me on this one! Take your time and keep trying (gently) if you're still struggling

    Elizabeth Jolly - Replica

  8. Insert the flat end of a spudger underneath the rubber heat sink cover on the right fan. Slide the spudger underneath the length of the cover, releasing the adhesive. Lift the cover and flip it back so that you can access the cables underneath.
    • Insert the flat end of a spudger underneath the rubber heat sink cover on the right fan.

    • Slide the spudger underneath the length of the cover, releasing the adhesive.

    • Lift the cover and flip it back so that you can access the cables underneath.

    Back (case) side of rubber attachment is flimsy-ish, so need to be delicate when peeling rubber back.

    cahcadden - Replica

    True @cahcadden.

    Worst case you could accidentally tear it off

    (thank god, that didn’t happen to me, but belive me —> it was a close call)

    Shahzad Arif - Replica

  9. Use your fingers to pull the AirPort/Camera cables up off the fan. The cables are adhered to the fan, so peel them up carefully to avoid damaging them. Carefully de-route the cables from the plastic cable guide.
    • Use your fingers to pull the AirPort/Camera cables up off the fan.

    • The cables are adhered to the fan, so peel them up carefully to avoid damaging them.

    • Carefully de-route the cables from the plastic cable guide.

    It's a bit tricky to re-route the cables when you're installing the new display, so pay close attention to how they're originally routed, to make sure you don't pinch them or torque them.

    PriorityMail - Replica

    Do we need to use some adhesive to paste them back?

    Aniket Suryavanshi - Replica

    I used scotch tape to temporarily hold the cables in place until I was ready to reinstall the bottom cover, but I removed the tape at that last step (didn’t want it coming loose later, and possibly obstructing a fan).

    ChrisMBP - Replica

  10. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry off the two rubber hinge covers, one from each end of the device. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry off the two rubber hinge covers, one from each end of the device.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry off the two rubber hinge covers, one from each end of the device.

    I lost one of these rubbers. Is it OK if I dont buy a replacement? What happens if I dont?

    haloerika - Replica

  11. Remove the two 3.1 mm T5 Torx screws securing the aluminum hinge covers to the upper case. Remove the two aluminum hinge brackets from the MacBook Pro.
    • Remove the two 3.1 mm T5 Torx screws securing the aluminum hinge covers to the upper case.

    • Remove the two aluminum hinge brackets from the MacBook Pro.

  12. Use the tip of a spudger to pry the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the DC-In side of the computer. Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board. Do not lift up on the display data cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to pry the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the DC-In side of the computer.

    • Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Do not lift up on the display data cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board.

    "Pull the display data cable" is misleading unless you first read the following comment "Do not lift up on the display data cable". Those two statements together might lead you to "With the hinge away from you, SLIDE the display data cable out by pulling the handle to your right, not up."

    jefowler4th - Replica

    This is also a difficult step as it isn’t clear that the connector is held in place by a clip that is initially flat against the board. It must be rotated up at a 90 deg angle to the board. then you can work the connector back out parallel to the board.

    Walt Goede - Replica

    A bit confusing. First, you want to lift up the cable lock. After this step, you want to back out the cable from the socket by rocking the cable side-to-side whilst gently pulling it towards the edge of the macbook pro. Do not lift up. You want to in effect slide the cable out of the socket.

    Dean Dillavou - Replica

    It think I break the data cable…Is that possible to change only this part?

    camille.laflamme.r - Replica

    After going through all of the steps, replacing the battery, and re-assembling, something is wrong with the display and the laptop is no longer usable as a laptop. It only works with an external display. This step appears to have been the culprit. Although I understood the directions and was very careful, either the cable or the socket may have been damaged. As I look back, I question why ANY of this needs to be done, with the exception of opening the case and disconnecting the battery cable to replace the battery. You’d be better off following the idiots who used dental floss and made YouTube videos. I still recommend the iFixit tools and solvent. In any case, thanks iFixit for directing me to take the extra steps that destroyed my MacBook Pro.

    Russell Topping - Replica

  13. Remove four out of the six 5.3 mm T8 Torx screws securing the display to the upper case.
    • Remove four out of the six 5.3 mm T8 Torx screws securing the display to the upper case.

    • We purposely have you leave one screw attaching the display to the upper case to aid in future steps.

    • When reassembling, make sure that the screws go through the two grounding loops on the webcam/airport cable.

    Are the grounding loops on the webcam/airport under or on top of the upper case hinge?

    tonylbvre - Replica

    They were on top for me

    matthew - Replica

    These guy are imposssible to get out - Either I need to get lifting or somethings &&^&@@

    yannick - Replica

    For me they’re T9 torx screws. They’re pretty hard to unlock because of the blue thread lock, use a good quality screwdriver.

    Adrien - Replica

    Remove the two screws over the airport/webcam grounding loop. Makes the process easier.

    See also MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2013 LCD Cable Replacement for replacement of the LCD cable.

    Harvey Thompson - Replica

  14. Open the MacBook Pro approximately 110 degrees, and place it sideways on the table, as shown.
    • Open the MacBook Pro approximately 110 degrees, and place it sideways on the table, as shown.

    • While holding the display and upper case together with your left hand, remove the remaining T8 Torx screw from the lower (closer to the table) display bracket.

    This is more easily achieved by inverting the MacBook and placing the “C deck” / keyboard surface on a desk such that the display hangs down vertically, i.e. at 90° to the C deck. Removing the last screws then just leaves the display held by gravity into the channels - it can’t fall or twist as with the “place on edge” method shown here - the risk shown with the exclamation mark in Step 14 below is eliminated.

    stephen_desaulles - Replica

    Agree with placing MacBook keyboard down on edge of desk so monitor hangs over edge: place a cloth over the edge to avoid screen damage, you can then support the bottom of the screen with your legs. I tried the other method for disassembly, this is easier and less scary by far.

    Harvey Thompson - Replica

  15. Be sure to hold the display and upper case together with your left hand. Failure to do so may cause the freed display/upper case to fall, potentially damaging each component.
    • Be sure to hold the display and upper case together with your left hand. Failure to do so may cause the freed display/upper case to fall, potentially damaging each component.

    • While holding the display and upper case together with your left hand, remove the remaining T8 Torx screw from the upper display bracket.

  16. Grip both halves of the device, one in each hand. Gently push forward on the bottom half of the device to detach it from the display assembly. Carefully set each component aside, making sure to set down the lower half keyboard-side down.
    • Grip both halves of the device, one in each hand.

    • Gently push forward on the bottom half of the device to detach it from the display assembly.

    • Carefully set each component aside, making sure to set down the lower half keyboard-side down.

    The hinge on my replacement display is not open 110 degrees. It's completely closed. How do I open it to screw in the torx screws that connect the display to keyboard?

    i12i5 - Replica

    I had the same problem. Did you finds a solution for pulling back the hinges on the replacement screen to 110 degrees?

    Steve Dawson -

    Pliers work! You can twist one hinge at a time with pliers. They should move surprisingly easily. (Fingers clearly aren't quite strong enough)

    Steve Dawson -

    Use your screwdriver instead of pliers! :D

    jfigueroagerena -

    I used an old credit card (or 2, stacked), so as to not risk scratching the screen.

    Andrew Ngu -

    I also used pliers, but you’ll want to wrap a paper towel or thin cloth, etc. around the hinge flap so you don’t scratch it with the pliers when you move it.

    Delaney Cunningham -

    How can I remove the long and thin black plastic cover that seats in the bottom of the screen so I can tight the screw that seats in other end of the hinge?

    gkmaia - Replica

    i replaced the lcd and now my backlight does not work on the new screen. I tried putting back the old screen and the backlight doesn't work on that one either. I forgot to disconnect the battery when changing the screen and i accidentally pressed the power button while the computer had no screen. Im pretty sure i damaged the backlight fuse but i cant seem to figure out where its at. If anyone could help that would be great.

    george - Replica

    Hello George,

    Did you manage to solve the problem, because I also tested a good lcd to my mbp and when I put back the lcd to the original laptop it dosn't work anymore...

    Dan -

    Hello Georges, same here my backlight stop working?

    Pierre Paquet - Replica

    did you reset the pram after the installation?

    faocisco -

    All went well, but the new screen now has a slightly greater distance from the body when the MacBook Pro is closed. I don't have any explanation for that, since the distance can't be influenced. A large distance would mean that the hinges are too close to the body, because they are screwed to the bottom of the body. Any ideas?

    orkus - Replica

    The little flange that holds the wires and fastens onto the hinge screws should go on top of the hinge and not below? Just a thought.

    max damage -

    As noted in an earlier step, you must make sure that before you start this entire task, Step 1 should be to “Shut Down” your computer completely. I used a stubby pair of long nose pliers to bend the clips out. Don’t use a screw driver.

    Walt Goede - Replica

    I was able to disassemble a display form a broken macbook pro and am looking to set up this separated display as a monitor attached to another computer. Does anyone have a solution on how to get this set up?

    nicko1995 - Replica

    using the 2 credit cards stacked together worked best

    Athanasius Pernath - Replica

    This was a relatively east repair compared to replacing a logic board in my older Macbook Pro 15. I needed to replace the LVDs cable which required using another tear down guide not part of this one. MacBook Pro Retina Display Teardown.

    I really appreciate the authors. You guys saved mt $600 which is what my local Apple Store quoted to replace the entire display which the computer didn’t need. All it needed was a fairly inexpensive cable available here for $20/

    Thanks very much.

    FFCS Family - Replica

    My screen is fine but the hinges are broken. Do I have to replac whole screen? I shouldnt have to but there are wires coming from the hinges into the screen once. Ive taken the screen off FYI

    Stewart Lyon - Replica

Conclusione

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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I was a bit scared to do this... But it was actually not that hard... And I had no issues whatsoever. Thank you so much! You saved my ass hahaha.

Jasmine Shoja Ardalan - Replica

Worked perfectly for me. Thanks for the guide!

Mike Lucas - Replica

I have limited computer repair experience but I found this repair very easy and straightforward to do. If you're careful with the cables and don't force them you shouldn't have any problems! Thank you ifixit!

Kyle - Replica

Other iFixit guides worked great for me. So when my Macbook pro 15" retina late 2013 got a cracked display I bought a new one and tried assembling it with this guide. I tried this so many times, and even bought a couple of displays (both are supposed to have matched the model number of my laptop), but it didn't work for either of them. My old display, which was cracked, comes on, but the new ones I bought don't come on when I boot the computer. I've also tried those weird key combinations that they suggest for fixing a black screen elsewhere on the web. I am at my wit's end.

Ann Marie - Replica

But I might have gotten the wrong year :( Apparently the macbookpro I have is 2015, not 2013.

Ann Marie -

Thanks for the guide! This was my first repair and it worked without a hitch, can't thank you enough!

Michael Haddad - Replica

Worked perfectly. Thanks for your work!

Robert Reinke - Replica

Hardest part of doing this was unfolding the hinges on the new screen, those things are tight! Easy repair, completed in about 40 minutes. Great repair guide.

breannadalke - Replica

Excellent repair guide. A small comment/hint on unfolding the hinges on the new screen would be great (I used a screwdriver through one of the hinges holes to get the torque to move it. Also under tools it should add the blue lock tight as that would be nice to have added back onto the hinge screws. Although I suspect it will be fine without that.

Robert Schumann - Replica

This repair was pretty simple if you take your time and be careful with the cables. I struggled to get the wifi antennas to stay on. One was fine but the other two gave me fits

bobcat94 - Replica

If you buy a pair of cheap reading glasses (the strongest ones you can buy), it can help you see the small parts (especially the Airport antennae cables when plugging them back in).

Achilles - Replica

got put back together, but ended up with white screen, any ideas? checked all cables

herrky - Replica

Excellent guide - use your fingers and a magnifying glass to put the Wifi antennas back on - practice before doing next steps. For the hinge, simple use a pair of pliers to move them to the correct angle, being careful not to damage the screen below. My first repair, under 2 hours, no real issues to report.

Jon Lucenius - Replica

If after the replacement is done, and the backlit keyboard does not come on, simply reboot and hold down CMD-OPT-P-R to reset the Parameter Ram. Make sure you are indeed in low light and all should be well.

Jon Lucenius - Replica

Like many others, I was nervous to do this job. Not to mention my wife (It was her laptop). When I came across this guide, I knew I could follow it. The pictures and descriptions were great. My main trouble spot was step 6 and I added a comment that may help you. Another thing that helped was I took a piece of paper and sketched out multiple diagrams of the laptop. I made little circles on the paper for the placement of where the screws went and placed them on the same spot I took them from. When it came time for reassembly, I knew right where everything went. It was very satisfying to do this job. My wife hasn’t stop thanking me :-).

Chuck Barton - Replica

Bought the Ifixit toolkit they recommended and it made this job a breeze. Instructions are very clear, and I was delicate with the cables. Having never done this before, it only wound up taking me an hour. Great write up, thank you guys so much.

Michael DeSantis - Replica

Great guide… The hardest thing was moving the new hinges to correct angle. Insert one of the screwdrivers into the hole furthest from the screen and push down this levers the hinge up, Be very careful not to touch screen with driver.

david goodman - Replica

Worked great! Hardest part was getting the WiFi antenna connected again, but just a little patience, and it worked out!

Adam Ahlquist - Replica

I just completed a display change. My old display had a crack all the way across and at first was okay, then it was impossible to view with crazy vertical motion. Anyway the guide got me through my first computer repair and everything is working great. It took me 45 min start to finish. I did, by the way, buy the ifixit Pro tech tool kit, so that I’d have the necessary tools, wouldn’t have happened without the kit. Thanks

Sarah Hoekstra - Replica

Hi, When I try this the last step kills me. I cannot get it to move forward as shown. It seems like the hinges need to slide through a slot in the top case. Moving it forward as directed just makes the hinges hit a part of the top case.

I am not a novice and have used all previous take apart instructions here successfully.

Any ideas?

Brian Fountain - Replica

Excellent guide! Thanks for taking the time to create this. No YouTube videos necessary. It was actually much easier than other repairs i have tried like replacing hinges on my Asus Ux360CA! Just go slow and be methodical. Thanks again! Dan

Dan W - Replica

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