Introduzione
How to remove the hard drive, along with its cable and bracket from your computer.
Cosa ti serve
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Use your fingers to push both battery release tabs away from the battery, and lift the battery out of the computer.
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Remove the two Phillips screws in the battery compartment near the latch.
Getting these screws in and out is difficult because most screwdrivers are longer then the battery compartment is deep and so will be slightly off plumb. When you go to re-assemble the computer, getting these screws to seat is one of the hardest parts of the re-assembly. It's very important to be gentle and not to strip the threads.The screw should tighten and come to a stop after 3-4 turns. If you turn 6 or more turns and don't feel it grab, then back off and try again, making sure that everything is in alignment.It might be easier to start with the left screw, because it is further away from the latch mechanism.
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Remove the four Phillips screws on the port side of the computer.
Be careful when reassembling your laptop -- do not put the screw into the DVI port! It will not come out.
Been there, done that!
I honestly don't remember how did I ultimately succeeded in getting that %#*@ screw back from the hole...by Scott Rose Jan 4 @ 11:12 PM
Be careful when reassembling your laptop -- do not put the screw into the DVI port! It will not come out.
To keep this from possibly happening, I placed 2 pieces of tape over the DVI connector pin holes.
Be careful in step 4, these two screws are shorter than the four screws in step 6, dont mix them up!
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Lift up at the rear of the case and work your fingers along the sides, freeing the case as you go. Once you have freed the sides, you may need to rock the case up and down to free the front of the upper case. This stage can be quite tricky. Over the DVD reader are 4 tabs set back which pull out vertically.
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Note that the two small tongues on the left hand front of the upper case may bend while you remove the upper case. When re-installing, you may need to bend them back to fit in the grooves in the lower case.
Citazione da khank:
On my MacBook, there were no pushbuttons. Rather, two mini phillips screws were holding the case on inside the battery bay. The two screws are under two ball-bearing-like nubs that help hold the battery in the bay.
I just realized these were the screws mentioned in Step 4, which I missed originally. Did you miss step 4 too?
I discovered that I didn't need to take the case off completely. I just propped it up with a small screwdriver and was able to remove the airport card and replace it with a new one fairly easily.
That's not so difficult step. you shoul know , that front edge of upper case holding only on 5 plastic "locks" 4 in front edge upon the superdrive, 5-th near the "sleep light, open laptop button"
just lift up the rear edges of upper case to 35-40 degrees
Citazione da Archhawk:
Getting the top case off, especially right above the optical drive slot was a @#$%^. !^$%. Was finally able to work it loose by twisting in the budger. Be careful.
I agree! It was really very difficult just ROCKING the front panel. NOT done! Do not pry it from the front of the unit, as the soft metal edge gets scratched! I turned the unit upside down and slowly pried the keyboard apart left-to-right from INSIDE the Battery Bay, slipping a plastic pen to keep it apart. When I finally looked at what was holding it down, it was these 5 grey&black plastic SNAP slots, and 4 of them were behind the DVD slot.
I found I had to push with a little force from underneath the battery compartment where the touch pad is located to free the bottom edge of the case. The case came away with two loud snaps. At first I thought I'd broken something, but then it appeared that it was just the plastic above the slot loading super drive that was held in very tightly and needed some encouragement.
There are several clips along the front of the case in front of trackpad and above the optical drive slot. These need to be gently levered open (eg using an old credit card), and clipped closed on reassembly. Start at the left hand side. Take care not to bend the aluminum top. When reassembling, check the top panel for kinks/bends and straighten by hand before reassembly.
The way I did it was to lift the back to about 45% (the ribbon cable is long enough) and then used the spudger to force the 4 snap tabs in front of the optical drive to separate, working from the right edge towards the middle (they will 'pop'), ending with the last tab to the left of the sleep light.
After reading all the step 9 comments I was prepared for it to be very difficult. The two bendable tabs on the left front of the case were no bigger than 1/4 inch wide each and caused no trouble taking it off or putting it back on. Lifting the cover off happened before I knew it. I was carefully lifting the cover from side to side and 'poof' it was off and the yellow ribbon attaching between the case and the keyboard was so old and brittle it parted ways without my permission so that took care of step 10 right there but no problem.
Being prepared, reading the guide, printing the guide, taping each screw to the right place on the guide made it all easy. I'm amazed it went so smooth on the first run-through. Thanks iFixit!
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Disconnect the trackpad and keyboard ribbon cable from the logic board, removing tape as necessary.
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Remove the upper case.
not necessary. just attach a string around both the screen and the keyboard. it will stay in a steady position..
-urdus.
I found that the ribbon connecting the top part of the case to the logic board wasn't long enough and the connector did have to be disconnected.
Citazione da urdus:
not necessary. just attach a string around both the screen and the keyboard. it will stay in a steady position..
-urdus.
Excellent tip! Thanks, this allowed me to skip steps 10 and 11 (any unnecessary tinkering with the logic board is recommended).
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Disconnect the orange hard drive ribbon cable from the logic board.
I fully agree with urdus. Step 11 is un-needed when replacing the harddrive.
Citazione da urdus:
you dont need to do this. disconnect the sleeplight and IR sensor connectors instead. Just lift the harddrive cable where it is glued. It can still be connected to the logicboard. Dont lift the harddrive too much when disconnecting it.
Yikes! I did Step 11 and now I have loose ribbon cable. How do I attach it back? Do I have to solder it?
I agree with Urdus... less one step if you're careful enough...
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Use a spudger to carefully loosen the adhesive securing the sleep light and IR sensor connectors to the top of the hard drive.
I didn't have a budger/spudger, so I cut the brush side off a used plastic toothbrush and used the handle after sharpening the cutoff end into a wedge... works great!
I use UN-DU scrapbookers adhesive remover <http://un-du.com/>. (It is hexane.) It temporarily dissolves adhesive bond, then evaporates and the adhesive is sticky again. Much less risky than a spudger.
cheongi -
Agreed! Two hugely tricky steps here. The larger of the two components really did NOT want to come away from the hard drive case (I was afraid of tearing the ribbon cable), AND I accidentally pulled the Bluetooth ribbon out from the case. Heck of a job to replace it! Anyone know where I can get the opaque plastic sheath for the Bluetooth board?
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Slide the Bluetooth board out of its slot next to the hard drive. The Bluetooth board is still connected to the orange hard drive cable, so don't try to remove it entirely from the computer.
Torx and no bluetooth card in MBP from March 2008.
I couldn't figure out how to 'slide' the Bluetooth board out, so I just left it in place and pulled the hard drive out.
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Lift the hard drive up with one hand and use your other hand to remove the retaining bracket from the side of the hard drive.
NOTE TO ORIGINAL MBP CORE DUO OWNERS: This picture makes it look like the retaining bracket comes off when you lift out the hard drive at this point, but it does NOT. The bracket is attached to the hard drive via 2 Torx screw (step 17), which must first be removed.
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Disconnect the orange hard drive cable.
My new Hitachi drive has the "do not cover" hole right under the place where the IR and sleep sensors need to be attached. The stock drive had the hole on the other end of the hard drive. I just made sure the adhesive didn't seal off the hole, and I think it should be alright. Otherwise, install was easy and these directions were outstanding. Thanks.
I had the same problem with my Western Digital Scorpio 2.5in 500GB SATA 16MB. Otherwise, the instructions were awesome. I had to have the tape "just" left of the breather hole and the ribbon cable wasn't flush, but I don't think it's too big a deal. Drive was recognized by the laptop immediately and good old Time Machine restore is on its way.
Thanks, I managed to put a new 320 GB drive in. Next I partitioned the drive for MAC OS 10.4 and Windows with Disk Utility. Selected Volume Format: Mac OS Extended (Journaled) for Mac OS 10.4 and MS-DOS File System for Windows. Next I restored Mac OS 10.4 with Carbon Copy from the old 100 GB drive, BUT how to restore Windows?@#$%^&* Carbon Copy doesn't do that.....??
Citazione da Barbara:
Thanks, I managed to put a new 320 GB drive in. Next I partitioned the drive for MAC OS 10.4 and Windows with Disk Utility. Selected Volume Format: Mac OS Extended (Journaled) for Mac OS 10.4 and MS-DOS File System for Windows. Next I restored Mac OS 10.4 with Carbon Copy from the old 100 GB drive, BUT how to restore Windows?@#$%^&* Carbon Copy doesn't do that.....??
My new SATA 500GB Hitachi was Initialised and Partitoned with Disk Utility when inside an external USB box ($20.00), and then all the contents of the 80GB was CCC'd over. When the new drive was switched over and tested before reassembly, everything came up identical to the original HD. (but I don't use Windows)! Kudos to CCC, and this site for clear instructions! Thanks, Guys/Gals.
On my MBP, the orange cable was glued for it's length on the top of the original drive. Rather than try to peal it off, I removed the sticker underneath which was easier as the orange cable came with it. It also made putting it back easier.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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Un commento
I love everyone's different approaches. I used a piece of paper with written descriptions of screw locations. I put a strip of double-sided tape next to each description and stuck the screws to them. The paper got moved all over my office before I finished the project, and the screws stayed in place.
Before beginning, I found some small plastic bags and labeled each of the with the location the screws would come from once removed and the appropriate step number. Once the screws were removed I placed them in the labeled bags and did not have to worry about mixing screws up. Also, provided a good way to insure that no steps were skipped in the reverse process
rpbetancourt - Replica
If you don't have any plastic bags, you can always print out the photos in black and white as you go, and then tape the screws on to the print outs over the circles that denote the screw positions in the photos. This method helps get every single screw back in it's exact location, even months after a tear down. ;o)
Adam - Replica
Thank you very much!
Evgeniy - Replica
When I did this, I used a empty egg carton to store my screws. I wrote the steps where I removed screens in Sharpie on the bottom of the "egg cup" and then dropped the screws in as I went. Then I just worked backwards to put it all back together.
mark93 - Replica
I Generally just use a piece of paper with a rough sketch of the system and locations of the screws with prestik.
Tarn Alcock - Replica