Introduzione

Are the gobs of OEM thermal paste causing your MacBook Pro to be sluggish while hot? Use this guide to remove your heat sink and apply new thermal paste.

Remove the following ten screws:
  • Remove the following ten screws:

    • Three 14.4 mm Phillips #00 screws

    • Three 3.5 mm Phillips #00 screws

    • Four 3.5 mm shouldered Phillips #00 screws

Does void the warranty?

jfondeur - Replica

No, it does not void the warranty. More specifically: http://eshop.macsales.com/Search/display...

oakdragon12 - Replica

How much weight can I save by removing the optical drive?

gunes314 - Replica

You can save a lot of weight if lets say your installing a solid state drive or putting in a second hard drive but if you know that you use the CD/DVD disc drive a lot then you might just want to leave the drive alone.

Marshall WahlstromHelgren -

Also wondering how much weight I'd save by just removing. My drive is broken for ages, but I have not needed it in ages. The HD was already replaced by a cheap SSD (second best thing after upgrading to 8GB), so I'd appreciate losing some weight. I mean, the computer. Although I could lose some too... erm... well, anyway, I guess the lack of the DVD would not interfere with anything, right? Opinions?

Carlos Duarte do Nascimento - Replica

Apple has meticulously balanced the MacBook's weight from left to right, and removing the optical drive may off-balance the Mac.

Seji the veggie -

What so you think that a removing the optical drive which weighs less than a AA battery will unbalance a MBP making it unusable? LOL!

Unless you use the MBP on a high wire (an even then I have my doubts) you'd never notice the weight difference.

pmhparis -

The issue is not one of weight but an issue with the systems cooling and an opening which objects could enter. For a few grams of weight I don’t think its worth it! A better solution would be to swap out the heaver HD for a much lighter SSD, and getting all of the performance benefits of the faster drive as well!

While you might not think it the optical drive also acts as a stiffener so there is less twist in the case. This is because of the size of the hole for the DVD/CD’s so taking it out weakens the case design.

Dan -

I'm thinking you'd probably be OK losing the DVD drive without a problem. Just make sure the optical drive cable is secured or you might hear it rattling in there from time-to-time.

John Adam Wickliffe - Replica

Hey guys,

this website is amazing. I read it to guide me on fixing my mac book pro, but on the video, the girl gives a wrong information.. She says that is not possible replace just the keyboard... But I managed to replace only my keyboard. It is boring because I have to remove approximately 70 screws but it is possible. Thanks a lot! You guys helped me save about US$300 thats because in Brazil some technicians would charge me with that amount!

I posted some pictures on your facebook page..

renatumb - Replica

Tip: Use one of those weekday pill holders to have a cheep way to store screws you remove and each day of the week can be for different sizes or parts. It has been handy to have (much less expensive than the magnetic mat.

Robert Wacker - Replica

Great tutorial. I found that using a Phillips #0 in lieu of the #00 worked much better.

kschmesk - Replica

I tried the PH #00 for the 10 screws that hold the bottom case and it's too big, instead PH #000 works perfectly. Are you sure this screws are #00?

Alex - Replica

The likely problem with your wifi is not the card but the antenna leads that go into the plastic clutch

. Ifixit don't have a guide to change this as it it includes the isight camera so the screen has to be disassembled which is fairly hard

I got round it by using the camera cable from the old set and cutting off the new one

brian whittle - Replica

Hello MacWorld,

Just want to say that this site is a great resource for repairing or upgrading your Mac. I had a bad SATA cable in my MacBook Pro and after ordering a new one from the "IFIXIT" site I received the cable within two days, replaced it and was up and running again in no time. Thanks IFIXIT for you help!

wer 10/5/15

tayseer999 - Replica

I have found that my MacBook Pro 13 Late 2011 has five shouldered screws and not four. I am not sure exactly where it goes but I have put it in the top left corner of the picture as it is the odd one out.

GotMac - Replica

Hello, where can I buy the screws I need in case I lose one of them?

taylornya - Replica

on my device the #00 screwdriver was a bit too small. a #0 was the perfect one

Maximilian Klotz - Replica

I found with mine that the shouldered and un-shouldered screws were reversed (the three un-shouldered screws going where the orange colour indicates). Also, I found that the front four screws went in at an angle.

gilded yak - Replica

Are you sure the short screws are different? The set sold here just says “Seven 3 mm Phillips #00 screws.”

Jack - Replica

I have the same question. What is the difference between shouldered and not? So hard to see any difference…

Michael Wilkens -

I have one stripped screw... How opening without drill it?! Any suggestions please?

rodrigosady - Replica

I also stripped a couple screws. I wasn’t able to open it up without drilling. After drilling the heads and removing the cover it was easy to hacksaw the tip and unscrew with a standard driver.

Michael Wilkens -

I used 3 eggcups to hold the screws ;>) They are very fiddly and easy to drop on floor so keep the MacBook away from the edge of the surface you are using to avoid accidentally dropping a screw off the edge of a table, etc.

Stephen Smith - Replica

A screw does not come out, how can I get it out? Many thanks in advance for your help

Wilder Torres - Replica

Since you’ll be removing many screws it’s best to plan ahead. I found it especially helpful to have a small plastic tray with about a dozen separate compartments to hold screws. As I removed screws I kept them in one compartment for each item removed. For example: The lower case removal involves the removal of ten screws. I kept them all in the first tray compartment and set the lid aside. Also, I put a post-it note identifying this compartment as “Lower case” and noted that the top right-most screws were the long ones. I continued with this methodology as a removed the next item, and the next, etc. Disassembly notes included for each compartment. This helped SIGNIFICANTLY as I was able to reassemble the Macbook easily by simply going from one compartment to the next (in reverse order). This guide is rated “Difficult” which it really isn’t when you plan ahead in this way. It saves time in the long run.

airshack - Replica

when putting the macbook pro back together, the middle screw on the right side (if the computer is upside down and you have the hinge furthest away from you) requires a bracket that was not included with my new upper case. i had to remove it from my old case and transfer it over - if you don’t do this, that screw will have nothing to attach to.

this was one of the many additional parts i needed to transfer from my old case to the new one that aren’t mentioned in this guide…i’m adding comments on each step to try to help others…i wish i had thought to take pictures.

Matt - Replica

It seems to me the yellow and orange screws are the same

Luca Giancarli - Replica

The screws used on all Retina models, as well as about everything Apple has made since the iPhone 4, uses “PENTALOBULAR” not Phillips screws. These look like a TORX driver, but it has 5 concave sides. I believe the size you want is a P4 or T4. (1.2mm).

Don Cely - Replica

Two screw types:

______________________________

Shouldered Unshouldered

xxxxxxx……….xxxxxxx

..xxxxx……..….…….x…….

…..x……..…...……….x…….

…..x…………....……..x…….

______________________________

El Crashitan - Replica

If you are following this guide to upgrade to a better drive and want to keep your system and data intact I highly recommend first following the guide to Clone an Existing Drive using the recommended free SuperDuper!. That process was a breeze and gives you confidence that the new drive will come up looking exactly the way it did when you started.

Patrick Langvardt - Replica

Use your fingers to pry the lower case away from the body of the MacBook near the vent. Remove the lower case.
  • Use your fingers to pry the lower case away from the body of the MacBook near the vent.

  • Remove the lower case.

If the black vent window that is attached to the back cover becomes loose what kind of glue should be used to attach it again, thermal paste or super glue?

Thanks for your help.

Mikell - Replica

bonjour cette truc ça marche au mac Brook pro Retina ou pas?

Shi Feng - Replica

Bonjour, alors cela va dépendre du modèle de MacBook Pro Retina concerné. Par exemple, si vous avez un 13 pouces, allez consulter cette page MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Repair et sélectionnez-y votre modèle. Les Retina 15 pouces se trouvent ici MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Repair. Sinon cet outil https://fr.ifixit.com/info/ID-your-Mac (pour l’instant seulement disponible en anglais) vous aide à identifier quel modèle vous avez et vous redirige vers la page de votre appareil, où vous trouverez le tutoriel correspondant à votre Retina. Bonne réparation !

Claire Rapp -

Merhaba, trackpad değişimi ve ayarlaması için tornavidaya ihtiyacım var, bu konuda yardımcı olabilir misiniz acaba? Ne tür bir tornavidaya ihtiyacım var ve nereden bulabilirim acaba?

Volkan Ogul - Replica

Use the edge of a spudger to pry the battery connector upwards from its socket on the logic board. It is useful to pry upward on both short sides of the connector to "walk" it out of its socket. Be careful with the corners of the connectors, they can be easily broken off.
  • Use the edge of a spudger to pry the battery connector upwards from its socket on the logic board.

  • It is useful to pry upward on both short sides of the connector to "walk" it out of its socket. Be careful with the corners of the connectors, they can be easily broken off.

Is this step of removing the battery connector required?

manodh - Replica

yes - as with disassembly of any electronic component you have to remove any power source. You don't want to accidentally turn the Mac on

khull -

Sooo the track pad is under the battery...you kind of have to remove it to get to the track pad.

stiknrudder -

This step is not really required. Apple does not recommend it.

Steven Layton - Replica

My Battery does not get recognized after i disconnected it, screw this site!

Diego Hernandes -

Did you properly ground yourself to the case before putting the spudger to the connector/logic board? Did you use a spudger or something else that is non conductive...or did you use a flat blade metal screw driver instead and compound your error by not grounding yourself before touching the logic board? All kinds of variables here but the bottom line is iFixit provided you a guide to fix your computer. Lots of others have followed this guide without trouble. Your battery issues are not their fault. They did say this guide was moderate difficulty...maybe it's just a little beyond your skill level. We should all know our limits!

stiknrudder -

Rather than be careful of the corners of the connector i would say don't use the spudger anywhere near the corners. While the corner looks like the obvious place to begin to pry it up from, it will break. Levering from the sides as the instructions suggest works well.

ausmkv - Replica

wonder why apple does not recommend it?!

Peter - Replica

I would recommend it, one careless short and the whole board is dead......

John - Replica

simply remove the battery rather than disconnecting the cable

toiu - Replica

What do you mean by "remove the battery"?

Anrothan -

Don't know what the deal is with the battery, but this IS a necessary step to keep from frying the logic Board if you accidentally touch something and short it out. I did this step every time during my troubleshooting and The battery was ALWAYS recognized by the system the next time I turned the MBP on. So be safe and don't fry your logic board in the process...

fasthans - Replica

Prying the battery connector off does not take much force. I did exactly what the guide suggested (walked it off back and forth) with the spudger without any problems. Just be very gentle, much like with anything inside laptops, they are very fragile and need to be worked with carefully. A+ instructions, battery replacement was a success.

aekinaka - Replica

Installed/upgraded 4gb RAM to the system maximum 16gb and installed a 500 gb SSD today....DID NOT disconnect the battery cable....no issues at all when I powered back up. Then did a clean install of OSX Yosemite....next I used a time machine backup to put all my stuff back on the new HD. From start to finish it took about 4 hours. Macbook boots up right at 16 seconds now.

MacProUser - Replica

Easiest to use two spudgers, one on each short end, I found.

Simon Mundy - Replica

I took off th Airport /Bluetooth connectors but the number J3 connector is broken and so where can i buy J3 connecter for the Airport/bluetooth board

Zeerachen - Replica

Its a lot easier and safer (corner wise) to pry it using the flat side of the black spudger directly in front of the connector (don't go/use the corners) very easily you will be able to pry it further by inserting the spudger into a better and thicker plastic section of the connector

Ed Oliver - Replica

DON'T remove the Battery Cable, you risk the battery NOT being recognised when you start the Mac up again, or breaking it!! More to the point, APPLE DOES NOT RECOMMEND THIS, so don't do it! I Installed 2x 8GB ( 16Gb total) of Crucial Mac RAM at 1333Mhz for my Late 2011 MacBook Pro, and it works beautifully, fully recognised and working well. I followed these instructions, but as Apple didnt recommend disconnecting the battery, I skipped this step, and as well as taking less time, nothing was damaged or broken, and everything works perfectly!!! Just make sure that you DISCHARGE ALL STATIC ELECTRICITY FROM YOUR HANDS, by touching a metal surface in the Mac. Apple recommends the edge of the Optical Disk Drive ( Big silver thing ) before touching any parts. Also, Take care removing the RAM out of its packet, DO NOT touch the Gold connectors, and hold the RAM by the edges. Finally, be PATIENT, GENTLE and it should all go perfectly. I managed it first time, with no technical ability, so follow my advice. Good luck!

Bradley Marks - Replica

Followed the tuto Step by step. Disconnected the battery (quite easily).

No problem when I lit the Mac on again. Battery's here, date's right.

nichoferr - Replica

Switch off your Mac and continue without disconnecting the battery. Don't know how it will switch on by itself.

Mfernandez - Replica

This comment made me think that disconnecting the battery was no point at all, because really - how would the computer be able to switch on by it self. So... I had my mac flipped around and was fiddling with the last part of the guide when I all of a sudden hear the start up sound! Don't know how and why it did. I turned it around with it guts open and guts hanging out. Screen was on. I forced it to shut down by keeping the power button down. Turned it back and first thing removed the battery cord.

Luckily the computer started up just like normal. But hearing that sound was just too scary.

BTW I had been cautious to de static myself multiple times.

wassberg -

Definitely do this step. It's an easy disconnect anyway and also easy to reconnect later.

Stephen Smith - Replica

I removed the battery cable for the repair. When I plugged in the MagSafe adapter after the repair, the Mac turned on automatically without pressing the power button and I was a bit worried, but after a restart everything worked fine again. I did have to reset date and time in Preferences. The battery was recognized OK.

Raymond Rinaldi - Replica

Okey, I skipped this battery disconnection part. Did not do anything like this before in my life, changing the cable was super easy!

Marijke de Vries - Replica

The official Apple guide to replacing the RAM says nothing about disconnecting the battery but it does recommend touching metal inside to discharge static. https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT201165

B T - Replica

I always do this when working on MacBooks (over ten years) and it never caused an issue. Don’t worry about this step as removal of the battery connector is simple. This particular connector is pretty much goof-proof as it won’t break. I’m fairly aggressive and just pop it off whenever I’m working on the Macbook Pro.

airshack - Replica

Hello!

Do I really need to use a spudger tool? Can’t I just use like two plectrums for guitar? xD

Myzcio - Replica

Bend the battery cable slightly away from its socket on the logic board so it does not accidentally connect itself while you work.
  • Bend the battery cable slightly away from its socket on the logic board so it does not accidentally connect itself while you work.

What are the changes of it broke when i bend it?, after i disconect it does not work anymore

Diego Hernandes - Replica

The guide worked perfectly, as it has in the past (our family has three Mid-2012 Macbook Pros that have been separately upgraded with RAM and SSD).

The PH00 screwdriver fit perfectly.

One note on getting the screws to seat easily and thread perfectly...always turn them gently a couple turns to the left (CCW or Anti-Clockwise) until you hear a small click. That's where the threads will grab. Works with any screw, but when threads are fine, this will help ensure that the screw is at the correct angle and will grab and seat perfectly.

Great guides. Thanks!

timgunkel - Replica

Got RAM in but only one slot is working and now I can't remove! The RAM won't pop up like before and tabs don't seem to do anything. Please advise.

Sal Ergrapes - Replica

I put some tape between the connector and socket while working on the drive.

Stephen Smith - Replica

That's a good tip

Anrothan -

Followed the advice and right as I was installing the replacement fan , the socket broke right off the motherboard.

Ian Thal - Replica

One other note: The screw heads fit flush with the curvature of the case -- which means that they aren't exactly horizontal. In other words, they aren't perpendicular to the table that the computer is resting on. Don't try to force them straight in vertically, because you'll risk cross-threading them. (nearly ruined one screw hole myself!)

lelandjordon - Replica

does the battery connection need to be removed? I only ask as other videos etc have not shown this step.

Darren Rose - Replica

Use the edge of a spudger to gently pry the fan connector up and out of its socket on the logic board. It is useful to twist the spudger axially from beneath the fan cable wires to release the connector. The fan socket and the fan connector can be seen in the second and third pictures. Be careful not to break the plastic fan socket off the logic board as you use your spudger to lift the fan connector straight up and out of its socket. The layout of the logic board shown in the second picture may look slightly different than your machine but the fan socket is the same.
  • Use the edge of a spudger to gently pry the fan connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.

  • It is useful to twist the spudger axially from beneath the fan cable wires to release the connector.

  • The fan socket and the fan connector can be seen in the second and third pictures. Be careful not to break the plastic fan socket off the logic board as you use your spudger to lift the fan connector straight up and out of its socket. The layout of the logic board shown in the second picture may look slightly different than your machine but the fan socket is the same.

Can the socket be soldered back if broken? Or am I screwed? Can I use the laptop without the fan?

ricardosaez395 - Replica

I have the same question, looks like instead of "unplugging" these micro connections, I accidentally pried it off the Board instead. Harumph. Can these be fixed?

Steve White - Replica

I successfully soldered the fan connector back on for a friend. I used a small soldering iron (maybe 6-10 watts) and ground the tip down to a very fine point. Also used a magnifying light and very fine rosin core solder. I took my time and lined everything up and was careful not to heat any other junction unnecessarily.

Scott Stanley - Replica

Yup. Be careful on this one. I was trying to gently pry up and popped it off the socket. Computer working fine after replacing magsafe board, but no fan for cooling…

Thomas Carr - Replica

This one is really delicate, as pointed out.  Be careful if using the pointed end of a spudger NOT to dig down and under ….there’s a layer of plastic-y insulation that can be torn.  I accidentally gored it with the pointy end of a spudger and it was slightly ripped.  Fortunately, I was able to press it down and there was no problem when the cable was reinserted.

Carolyn Ryan - Replica

For less than $16 I ordered a new fan from amazon. Fans eventually start making noise. If they fail, your system could expire from heat. Consider simply replacing your fan since this model is now about five years old. Here’s link:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FWP...

airshack - Replica

I used a guitar pick and gently wiggled underneath to lift it up and out of the socket. no damage! woo hoo! on to step 7!

jcundy2 - Replica

Remove the following three screws securing the fan to the logic board:
  • Remove the following three screws securing the fan to the logic board:

    • One 7.2 mm T6 Torx screw

    • Two 5.3 mm T6 Torx screws

These are T5 screws

dbell316 - Replica

I think so too, (maybe on a certain batch?) tried a T6 and its too big

billytalentlovexo -

No they are T6

tweakland - Replica

Nope just tried a T6 and its too big, don't have a T5 but it's gotta be one

billytalentlovexo -

It would be helpful to have recommendations about how to clean the dust from inside. What places to direct the compressed air,

garyrclark - Replica

Forget the dust inside: replace the fan for about $15! Here’s what I ordered and it worked perfectly:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FWP...

airshack - Replica

Wah. My screws got rounded out and the old fan is stuck in now. Anybody have a solution to get them out without frying the logic board? It definitely seems as if locktite has been used here. Has anybody else found evidence to support that?

Jimbo - Replica

Lift the fan out of its recess in the logic board, minding its cable that may get caught.
  • Lift the fan out of its recess in the logic board, minding its cable that may get caught.

Aggiungi Commento

Use the tip of a spudger to pull the right speaker/subwoofer cable out from under the retaining finger molded into the upper case. Pull the right speaker/subwoofer cable upward to lift the connector out of its socket on the logic board.
  • Use the tip of a spudger to pull the right speaker/subwoofer cable out from under the retaining finger molded into the upper case.

  • Pull the right speaker/subwoofer cable upward to lift the connector out of its socket on the logic board.

Aggiungi Commento

Disconnect the camera cable from the logic board.
  • Disconnect the camera cable from the logic board.

  • Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board. Pulling the cable upward may damage the logic board or the cable itself.

The camera cable head has bump at both sides. Just use two spudgers to pry it out.

townbull - Replica

Here's where the mid-2009 13" MacBook Pro 5,5 makes its first major departure from this guide. No such connection exists. At least nowhere I could find on the motherboard.

Larry Horton - Replica

IIRC the official service manual suggests putting the blunt or wide edge of a black-stick/spudger underneath the cable and then pressing down on said cable to provide better gripping force while pulling the cable out/away from the connector. It’s my tried-and-true method of choice.

James - Replica

Disconnect the following four cables: AirPort/Bluetooth cable
  • Disconnect the following four cables:

    • AirPort/Bluetooth cable

    • Optical drive cable

    • Hard drive cable

    • Trackpad cable

  • To disconnect the cables, use the flat end of a spudger to pry their connectors up from the sockets on the logic board.

On the mid-2009 13" MacBook Pro 5,5 the Airport/Bluetooth cable is different from the other three cables in this step. It's fabric wrapped, and its connection works in a fashion more like the display data cable connection, although it does not have a lock that releases by pulling a tab back over the cable. So, to those of you who are repairing this model, be careful. Prying upward is not the way to remove this cable. I played with it until I could detect which parts were moving which way and why. Although I can't say with precision how the connection works, I removed it by gently coaxing slightly up at an angle and back along the plane of the optical drive. The idea is to pull the cable back out of its socket while lifting slightly.

Too bad we can't post photos in the comments.

Larry Horton - Replica

Use your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF socket. Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself. Use the tip of a spudger to pull the keyboard ribbon cable out of its socket.
  • Use your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF socket.

  • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

  • Use the tip of a spudger to pull the keyboard ribbon cable out of its socket.

Hello i've a late 2011 and have manged to break the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF socket. Is this a part that can be replaced? Ribbon is still good just the plastic has broken on the edge. Thanks

Derek Cowan - Replica

No, You'll need to replace the logic board. I'd probably just use a wired or bluetooth keyboard and put the money towards a new machine.

maccentric -

I ran into trouble reattaching the keyboard ribbon cable into the ZIF socket. I couldn't grasp it in a way that let me push it all the all back. A local repair guy told me his trick: use a piece of tape. Attach a piece of tape to the ribbon cable and make a tab so you can pull the cable into the socket. Use of a piece of tape that you can easily remove. Works like a charm.

David - Replica

Buy that man a pint! I've been working on computers professionally for a decade and I've never thought of that trick. Brilliant!

Gryyphyn -

Amazing this saved me!

Felipe Cordero -

David, thank you so much for the tape suggestion! A little Scotch tape just ended 15 minutes of eyes-widening frustration. :)

simolinic - Replica

if the zif socket got fried which parts must be replaced?

Jacob - Replica

i dont know what yall be talkin bout i just ripped the top part off and then i put some back tape voerit

works great!

mark Andrews - Replica

After I put it all back together, the keyboard didn’t work; I traced it to this cable not being plugged in all the way. I used the tape trick to coax it all the way in to seat well and it works like a charm.

Ruedi Schubarth - Replica

“Attach a piece of tape to the ribbon cable and make a tab so you can pull the cable into the socket. Use of a piece of tape that you can easily remove. Works like a charm.” <=== perhaps the best suggestion I’ve read in years!

airshack - Replica

The tape trick works. Since we’re in the middle of a home renovation project I used a piece of painters tape that was lying around. It doesn’t really stick to the cable but it just gives you that extra grip.

Rob Kruit - Replica

I had a hard time to reattach the keyboard cables, the tape trick just saved my life.

nikowesome - Replica

Just a random thing to add. My Mac would not boot without the keyboard ribbon being plugged in correctly.

Zakary Womack - Replica

Thanks for the tip about keyboard ribbon, saved me a major headache

domhnallk - Replica

If present, remove the small strip of black tape covering the keyboard backlight cable socket.
  • If present, remove the small strip of black tape covering the keyboard backlight cable socket.

The bottom of the small strip has excellent adhesive which will re-stick upon reassembly without any problems. I handled the sticky side and even stuck it to a plastic tray without any issues. Which is to say the sticky-ness does not seem to wear off.

airshack - Replica

Use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard backlight ribbon cable ZIF socket. Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself. Pull the keyboard backlight ribbon cable out of its socket.
  • Use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard backlight ribbon cable ZIF socket.

  • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

  • Pull the keyboard backlight ribbon cable out of its socket.

The first time I reassembled the system I left this tiny ribbon connector under the logic board by accident. If your keyboard backlight no longer works after reassembly it’s because you forgot to reattach this small connector. Fortunately, I caught my mistake before securing the logic board screws. It’s an easy to miss item.

airshack - Replica

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the sleep sensor/battery indicator connector up from its socket on the logic board.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the sleep sensor/battery indicator connector up from its socket on the logic board.

Hello Guys , I accidently Broke the Cable , is there a replacement for it?

dewa - Replica

the sleep sensor/battery indicator were not included with my new case, i had to transfer them over from my old case. once the battery is out (step 22), you can see the three screws you need to remove in order to take it out. it’s also secured by adhesive. the button for the battery indicator will likely fall out (at least it did on mine) when you remove the board, so be careful not to lose it…my new case did come with the button for the battery indicator (even though it didn’t come with the board or cable), but i just re-used the old one.

Matt - Replica

Grab the plastic pull tab secured to the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the DC-In side of the computer. Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board. Do not lift up on the display data cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board.
  • Grab the plastic pull tab secured to the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the DC-In side of the computer.

  • Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.

  • Do not lift up on the display data cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board.

Its quite delicate, pull gently and it will pop out with a slight clicking sound

Leo Jose - Replica

On my mid-2009 13" MacBook Pro 5,5 the display data cable was square with the motherboard, rather than at an angle. I'm not experienced with working on computer connections, but if I were going to describe this procedure, it would be more like:

"Grasp the plastic tab on the end of the display data cable connection, and pull it gently back over the cable, toward the DC-in board. The tab is connected to a flat rectangular 'ring' that locks the cable to its connection, and when you pull the tab, the rectangular lock will flip back over the cable, allowing the cable to be removed by pulling the same direction, parallel to the surface of the motherboard."

Larry Horton - Replica

Probably a long shot but can this cable be replaced? I think i broke mine

Ahmad z - Replica

Well i found the part at amazon. how to repair it is another thing. I have to ask for help from one on this one. because its booting to a whiet screen.

mark Andrews - Replica

My display is not working after reassemble the mac.

Any reason?

Nitin Sonwal - Replica

My display is also not working after reassembly. External monitor works, but the internal display doesn't.

Chris - Replica

I choose not to remove this, just laid the board over. Worked just fine.

Justin Patterson - Replica

I used my phone to photograph the entire underside of the Macbook Pro before I started removing things. This photo helped augment the excellent photos here. Take a few close-ups of each section/item before disassembly to reference upon assembly.

airshack - Replica

when reattaching the display cable, i used the spudger to tuck the spongy top flap underneath the cable lock, so that i could then get the cable lock down the entire way. i couldn’t get it under there (and get the lock closed) without it, the top part of the display cable blocked it.

Matt - Replica

Remove the following nine screws:
  • Remove the following nine screws:

    • Five 3.6 mm T6 Torx screws

    • Two 4.3 mm T6 Torx screws

    • Two 7.2 mm T6 Torx screws

  • In some models the screws may be slightly shorter as follows:

    • Five 3.0 mm T6 screws

    • Two 3.6 mm T6 screws

    • Two 6.7 mm T6 screws

2 of the 7 listed 4mm screws attaching the logic board are actually 4.5 or 5 mm.... unfortunately. I didn't notice that until I was reassembling. so I don't know which positions they came from.

starf1970 - Replica

I'm just noticing this too... I've put the longer screws as the two on the far left of the picture because they seemed to be the two holes I couldn't see the bottom to.

GotMac -

2 of the 7 (the two red ones on the right side in the image) seem really hard to remove. Is there something I'm missing, or do I just need to try harder?

rubenwiersma - Replica

lol @ eye widening frustration. i disabled the keyboard and track pad some how after trying discon my mic. i think its cuz i DID REMOVE BATTERY AND STICKER. grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

msvicious510 - Replica

For keeping the screws straight I drew a simple diagram and placed them on it head down/threads up in their respective positions. Then all screws went back into their original positions without any guess work. Another suggestion I have during assembly is to start the screws without torquing them all the way down - leave them a little loose to allow some adjustment of the logic board for getting them all to line up with their holes, then torque them down. This technique also works for the screws on the bottom cover/lower case.

Great guide! Saved me some dough, and now my MagSafe connector stays nice and cool.

gregory mogle - Replica

There is only 2 4.3mm T6 on the left part of the logic board and 2 7.2mm T6 on the magsafe board. The 5 T6 left are 3.6mm

sebdominguez - Replica

for me the two on the farthest left were the 4.3mm screws. otherwise all went as described

Levi Hoover - Replica

Remove the following two screws: One 8.6 mm Phillips screw
  • Remove the following two screws:

    • One 8.6 mm Phillips screw

    • One 5.5 mm Phillips screw

  • Remove the display data cable retainer from the upper case.

The last screw is the onde that's getting me. Been trying to take it out for half an hour...

leotowers - Replica

Use the tip of a spudger to gently peel the microphone off the adhesive securing it to the upper case.
  • Use the tip of a spudger to gently peel the microphone off the adhesive securing it to the upper case.

The mic adhesive was the only adhesive which seemed diminished by disassembly. I don’t know what apple uses for internal adhesive but I finished the project wishing I had some to secure this mic assembly a little better.

airshack - Replica

Careful with this one. The wires are very thin fragile and it’s glued down very well making it extremely hard to remove. Just go slow and be patient otherwise you’ll damage the wires.

Rob Kruit - Replica

Minding the many connectors near its edges, lift the logic board from the end nearest the optical drive.
  • Minding the many connectors near its edges, lift the logic board from the end nearest the optical drive.

  • Without flexing the board, maneuver it out of the upper case, minding the flexible connection to the DC-In board that may get caught in the upper case.

  • Remove the logic board.

I am stuck here. When I lift the logic board, it doesn't come out. I don't want to force it out by fear of breaking it. Please help

Jean F - Replica

I had the same issue. After wiggling the logic board back and forth and slowly applying more force, just up the threshold where I felt uncomfortable, it came out. The problem appeared to be caused by glue on the heatsink barcode sticking to the layer underneath.

Shaun - Replica

Same experience here. I used a longish spudger slipped under the logic board to carefully separate the black backlight shield from the underside of the logic board. I suspect the processor and/or the GPU sticks the two together. Be careful and patient separating the backlight shiled...it is delicate..go slow and use minimal force...

fasthans - Replica

It is heat not glue that caused the sticking...

fasthans - Replica

I got the microphone cable out fine, but what I'm really struggling with is the camera cable - it doesn't seem to wanna come out and I don't want to force it because I know it's fragile. Anyone find a trick for this?

ingwis - Replica

I did all this, and worked! .but Im wondering, has anybody unscrewed what seems to be a mini heatsink (black 1 inch square housing) on the integrated GPU? Could I re apply paste on that?

tony perry - Replica

I did make the change yesterday. inside it has a thermal pad, that appears to be 3mm or less. i try to clean on my best. I make a making a very tick pea size and added again. but i have no idea if it works or not. still having temps on 56c on idle. there is no much info on that. i use MX-4 from arctic. but i still, in my option, a little to for my use. if someone have more info on that part on the late 2011 i7 macbook pro 13inch please send the info.

Carlos De Bernard -

I did and applied Arctic Silver 5 underneath instead of the crap tape they put under there. This alone stopped the random freezing and rebooting problem I was having with this macbook pro. I recommend if you're already that deep into it, you might as well do it. I'm glad I did.

ej257lgt -

There is one flexible metal plate near each connector probably a grounding plate which can get bend while pulling out the logic board. I had one of them bend but fortunately it didn't break off.

Leo Jose - Replica

Need help. After I put everything back together, everything works fine but my macbook just wont charge. Any diagnosis on this? Anyone who can explain to me how the battery and the charging work in a Mac?

justfinditjoshyip - Replica

Hi - did you figure out what the problem was? Everything working great - but not charging =/

Denise Vondy -

If this happened to me, I would first suspect I hadn't completely connected the DC-in board cable. If I hadn't just replaced the battery, I would wonder if the battery was good. MagSafe power cable connect connections fail too, especially if they've been attached for a long time to a red hot DC-in board.

If those failed, I'd head to the genius bar!

Larry Horton -

I had this problem. I accidentally cut the a cable from the DC-in board and I had to buy this component and replace it. You have to be very careful when mounting back the logic board in its position to not get a cable from the DC-in board cut by the screws.

Enrique Cerrillo Cuenca -

I broke the black backlight shield.... be careful when you feel the logic board and the film underneath it seem stickinig togethre.

EUNAE JO - Replica

The magnetic MagSafe connector pins have a grey plastic frame which can be seen as you look at it from the outside, looking inwards at the port. This plastic frame eventually starts to crack and break-up over the years. It’s not a necessary part so if your MagSafe connector has broken grey plastic on the external end of the connector, remove the pieces as they’re there only for cosmetic reasons.

airshack - Replica

The fan exhaust grille was catching onto the speaker unit so I had to skip to step 28 to take it out. After taking out the airport card the speaker was able to move away from the fan grille and let me lift out the logic board.

Antonio Cabrara (MrUnkownGuy) - Replica

Also be sure to lift up the logic board to a slight angle so it clears the optical drive then pull it out gently at that angle. Do not pull it ulwards.

Antonio Cabrara (MrUnkownGuy) - Replica

Remove the three 8.4 mm #1 Phillips screws securing the heat sink to the logic board.
  • Remove the three 8.4 mm #1 Phillips screws securing the heat sink to the logic board.

  • Don't lose the springs held under each of the screws.

When my mbp 2012 gets too hot it freezes and then restarts, especially when the battery is charging, on occasion I have to hard reboot it. When it does this there are purple lines all over the screen. What could be the problem?

Please help.

Carlos Adamez - Replica

Carefully remove the heat sink from the processor.
  • Carefully remove the heat sink from the processor.

  • If the heat sink seems to be stuck, it may be helpful to gently pry it off the processor with a plastic spudger. Be careful not to break any surface mount components on the processor while prying.

  • Be sure to clean off the old thermal paste and apply a new layer before you reinstall the heat sink. We have a guide that makes it easy.

Probably most people are here because of overheating problems and they want to replace the thermal paste. Use a decent thermal paste that lasts. Arctic Silver 5 doesn’t dry out as it’s based on silver particles.

Rob Kruit - Replica

Conclusione

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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Hello Community!

I recently replaced the heat sink in my MBP and now I'm having some issues. I reset the PRAM and have been trying everything possible to get it back to a normal running state.

The computer was having some heat issues and after some research I determined I should probably replace the thermal paste on my heat sink. So I did. Then, after putting the computer back together, I turned it on and a number of issues seemed to arise.

1.) The first issue that seemed to arise was that I could only turn on the computer with the power charger plugged in (even though the computer battery sits at 98%). This is still an issue, and sometimes pressing the power button (including holding it does nothing.

(Continued————>)

Kevin - Replica

(Continued from above)

2.) At first, the only keys that worked were Q-I, A-K, and Z-M. However, those issues seemed to resolve themselves after I went back through my Mac. I reassembled it and regained usage of many more keys and now it seems that the keys that aren't working are both Shift keys as well as the top row (esc - eject).

At this point I'm stumped. I found that if I plug in my USB magic keyboard I regain full access of my laptops keyboard but the power button is still and issue. I feel like all these issues must be somehow related, but I can't seem to find the culprit and I would rather not bring the laptop into a repairman quite yet since usage isn't urgent (I have an iMac I use for primarily.)

Thank you in advance for the help!

Kevin - Replica

Thanks, you’re a lifesaver! It’s much easier than I imagined. Used this to replace the old thermal past with some Arctic Silver 5. Temperature differences are surprising. During the break in period it went from 60 degrees Celsius idle to 50 degrees and from max 105 degrees Celsius under heavy load to about max 90 degrees. Now after a 24 hour break-in period it went down to 45 degrees idle and 85 max under heavy load. Will update if there’s any changes after the full 200 hour break-in period specified by the manufacturer.

Rob Kruit - Replica

Reporting back. Temperatures now @ 41 degrees Celsius idle and under full load between 81 and 85 degrees. System is stable again like before. This really solved a lot of problems for me!

Rob Kruit - Replica

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