Introduzione
La parte destra del tuo MacBook Pro non emette suoni? Segui questa guida per sostituire il subwoofer e lo speaker destro.
Cosa ti serve
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Rimuovi le dieci viti seguenti, che fissano il case inferiore al MacBook Pro Unibody da 13":
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Sette viti con testa a croce da 3 mm.
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Tre viti con testa a croce da 13,5 mm.
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Solleva leggermente il case inferiore e spingilo verso la parte posteriore del computer per liberare le linguette di montaggio.
In the introduction you should link fixers to this excellent doc: https://www.ifixit.com/Misc/HD_Software_...
It is really critical, super easy, and free(!) to clone your existing drive onto the new one you will install. I ran into one error, but SuperDuper! support replied immediately on how to fix it...Thanks ifixit and SuperDuper! (I ponied up the $28 for the software anyway, I was so impressed!)
Long story short: I drank the AppleKoolAid back in 1984 and have always left the guts of my machines up to Apple - until recently when I needed to swap the SATAs from my original MacDaddy (2009 13" MBPro that I killed in 2018 - coffee + blackout = OOOOPS) into a pristine 2009 MBPro from a Goodwill in North Carolina through eBay. I need the files from iCal and MacMail that can't be opened in my newer machines.
Well . . . I ain't never done nuttin' like that, before!
Enter Luke Miani on YouTube. He raves about you guys! So, I watched everything I could, read your site, bought the right tools and at the ripe old age of 72, I sat down, this morning and did the work. Now my original MacDaddy lives in MacDaddy2.0.
Am I allowed to cry?
Seriously, I can't thank you enough for your bitchen site and killer tools. I wish I'd'a been turned on to this shizzle 30+ years ago.
IFIXIT - IDIGIT!
HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA.
That was a brilliant read.
Yes, I came across ifixit a few years ago. Totally helped me out on several occasions.
Glad your Mac repair journey worked out.
:)
Cary B -
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Mediante l'estremità piatta di uno spudger, sollevare il connettore del cavo della batteria dal connettore femmina sulla scheda logica staccandolo da questa.
How do you get that battery connector back on? Do you just press it in back in place after you're done?
yes. I usually plug it in before I screw it down so I can lift the battery a bit and have enough slack to be able to go straight down on the connector, otherwise it comes in on a bit of an angle, which can't be good (though not necessarily bad).
This step almost finished me, and I did extensive damage to the battery plug. Fortunately, I later replaced the battery, and the replacement came with a new plug! :) Newbies need to know - 1. The battery plug is like a thin lip on a thicker lip, so you need to pry BETWEEN 2 thin lips to get it off, else you are trying to yank out the socket. 2. Mine was initially VERY tight, and trying to get it out broke the plastic on all sides of plug, even though I was as careful as possible. Luckily, this didn't hurt functionality and I later replaced the battery. AFTER disconnecting once, it was never so tight again,
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Usando l'estremità piatta di uno spudger, stacca delicatamente dalla scheda logica il connettore del cavo dell'altoparlante/subwoofer di destra. Stai attento a non sollevare la presa. Tira il connettore verso l'unità ottica.
What is the best way to solder this back onto the board? I did it once 5 years ago, but that was my first and only time soldering. I know there is a soldering guide, and I have read it. Could someone tell me please the best way to reconnect the right speaker/subwoofer cable to the board, referencing the soldering guide?
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Tira il connettore del cavo della fotocamera in direzione dell'unità ottica per scollegarlo dalla scheda logica.
When you put the Mac back together after this entire procedure, it's virtually impossible to get the camera cable reconnected because there is a small piece of plastic glued to the board to keep it from coming unplugged. An Apple store tech explained the piece of plastic and said it won't break anything if I pry it off the board. I did and then the cable connected easily.
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Rimuovi le due viti a croce Phillips che fissano il subwoofer al case superiore. Quella di destra è da 5 mm, quella di sinistra da 3,9 mm.
For step 8, I found I had to use a Phillips #0 screwdriver to remove the two screws. I'm not sure if mine were just over-tightened, but I couldn't get the two screws off with a cheapo Radioshack #00 screwdriver or a nice Wiha one for the life of me without coming close to stripping them. Tried the #0 and they popped right out. Hope this helps.
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Rimuovi le due viti Phillips da 8,4 mm che fissano la staffa del cavo della fotocamera al case superiore.
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Solleva dal case superiore la staffa del cavo della fotocamera.
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Rimuovi il nastro adesivo nero che copre il cavo dello speaker destro.
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Usa la punta dello spudger per far leva sullo speaker destro e sollevarlo dall'adesivo che lo tiene fermo sulla scocca superiore.
The new speakers don’t come with adhesive, so some double sided tape is handy. Also, the right speaker cable can be rather long, so some tape is useful to carefully loop it out the way.
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Per riassemblare il dispositivo, segui le istruzioni nell'ordine inverso.
Per riassemblare il dispositivo, segui le istruzioni nell'ordine inverso.
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4 Commenti
Thank you iFixit
Thank you iFixit!
I too snapped the right speaker/subwoofer cable connector right off the mother board, but with patience and a little research, I learned how to solder the thing back on. How about a Warning!!!!! inserted at that step.? I only saw that there were comments AFTER I gingerly tried to pry the connector as instructed. It would help to show how the parts fit together as is done with the fan cable connector. Those instructions (the fan cable connector instructions), helped me better understand what I was prying apart and gave me an idea of how best to do it, and how the speaker/subwoofer cable connector connected to the board, as well as how to position the “pads.”
So, I learned from my mistake, which is a good thing. Nonetheless, I would have preferred to learn BEFORE I snapped off the cable connector, LOL!
Thanks Again for this incredible site.
My connection did not hold. I asked above what the best way is to solder or reattach the right speaker/subwoofer cable connector back onto the board. I saw the soldering guide, but have only soldered once. Any specific guidance on how to reattach this cable would be SO APPRECIATED, especially referencing the soldering guide. Visuals are extremely important to me.
Compare the short screws carefully before reinstalling them. The shouldered screws go in the holes on the front edge.
David Kilbridge - Replica
Before I started removing any screws I took a piece of paper and drew the bottom of the laptop and put a piece of double-sided tape in the spot where each screw goes. That way when I took out the screws, I could put them on the tape so I knew exactly which screw went in which spot. I did the same thing for dismantling the inside on another sheet of paper, then a third sheet for the screen after getting the front glass off.
mastover - Replica
I use a similar technique: I print out the iFixit manual for the job, and Scotch-tape down the screws/brackets/cables I remove at each step next to the component descriptions. That way, when I'm reassembling, the bits are taped right next to the photo of where they came from.
adlerpe -
That's exactly what I do for all my repairs! It's the best way to keep track of all of the parts ' original location and to make sure that you don't miss any parts during reassembly.
joyitsjennie -
Great idea and one I use often
Thomas Overstreet -
Excellent idea! Thanks for sharing it here.
Laura Sharkey -
I used a 00 that fit but the screws were very tight so I used a tiny paintbrush with some wd40 on it and put it around the edges of the screws. Worked like a charm
valentinedhdh - Replica
I use a magnetic mat and place the screws in order on that :)
Cary B - Replica