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Introduzione

Use this guide to replace a faulty logic board.

Don't forget to follow our thermal paste application guide before you reinstall your heat sink.

    • Remove the following ten screws securing the lower case to the upper case:

    • Two 2.3 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

    • Eight 3.0 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

    • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your device.

    For all the screws you use the P5 pentalobe screwdriver?

    Carlos - Replica

    Pentalobe is only for the screws on the bottom cover. The Torx screw driver is for the remainder.

    Fredrik -

    Is the Pentalobe screwdriver mentioned in the tools list? I did not have one so I used a filed down flat blade screwdriver. Not a fantastic idea, but it works.

    Alex Birkett - Replica

    Yes, it's mentioned on the top of this page. P5 Pentalobe to be precise. I didn't have one either, so I bought one from iFixit and that works fantastic. An absolutely precise fit, which is important especially when you might open your MacBook a couple of times during the years you own it. Not using the correct tool might do more harm to the screws than you want! I once had this with a Lenovo Yoga 3 Pro, which has Torx screws (T4 I think) and I used cheap Chinese quality tools, with the result that both the tool and one of the screws are damaged.

    addvariety -

    I never, ever, ever considered using anything but the correct tool on the Pentalobe screws. Too easy to strip and void your warranty (if still in effect), as well as make it almost impossible to get inside later for another upgrade or repair. The Wiha P5 Pentalobe screwdriver fits like a glove and costs only about $11 (a fraction of your drive's price)at Amazon.com. Get it!

    marketing - Replica

    is P5 supposed to be for all 10 screws? it works on the 2x 2.3mm at the top, but not for the 8x others for me. what size screwdriver for the 3mm? thanks

    monsieurescargot - Replica

    Yes, the p5 works for all 10 pentalobe screw heads for bottom cover. The the different size mm reference only refers to the difference in length of the screws, but again both heads are p5.

    Antoine Thornton - Replica

    I followed this exactly and was able to replace my broken trackpad. I did not have to replace the ribbon OR the battery. However I would suggest getting the ribbon since it’s fairly cheap, as for the batteries I was able to do it with a card only. I didn’t use any heat or the liquid but it takes some time. You really have to work the card in there to release the glue. Also you must be very careful not to bend the batteries or damage them, if you do you must replace with new. This took me about 1.5hrs and my computer works like new. Apple cost for this job was around $450, I did it for $120. Big ups to ifixit for this awesome tutorial, tool set and parts!

    On a side note, only use quality tools, the cheap ones will break or strip the screws.

    Dustin Steward - Replica

    Note that the eight 3mm screws have a shoulder under the head, while the two 2.3mm screws are “full thread”, i.e., there is no shoulder under their heads. It’s important to put the two screws with no shoulder at the hinge of the cover.

    All ten screws require a P5 Pentalobe screwdriver, preferably with a magnetized tip to help hold and position the screw.

    All of the screws have blue “Loctite” thread locker compound on their threads. This is to help prevent the screws from working loose and falling out. Don’t attempt to clean the Loctite from the screws — leave it in place, and it will continue to help prevent the re-inserted screws from working loose.

    When replacing the bottom cover, it is a good technique to insert and BEGIN tightening all ten screws BEFORE fully tightening any one screw. After all the screws have been started, then go around and finish tightening all of them. By doing this, you make it easier to feel that each screw has been started properly, and is not “cross-threaded”.

    doubleclutch - Replica

    This is what I found on my MBP mid-2014 13” Retina. All 10 used the same screwdriver. I didn’t see the blue “loctite” but I also got my computer refurbished.

    Evan Shulman -

    A good technique for starting to thread the screws when replacing them is to position and align the screw, and with the driver, gently turn the screw in the REMOVAL direction until you feel and hear a slight click. This click happens when the leading thread of the screw drops off of the leading edge of the thread in the hole — this is the point at which the threads are properly positioned for engagement. You can now turn the driver and screw in the TIGHTENING direction. This technique will help prevent accidental “cross-threading” of the screw, which will damage the threads permanently.

    Note that this is a useful technique when installing ANY threaded fastener.

    doubleclutch - Replica

    Just finished replacing my battery (MacBook Pro 13” early 2015), glad I did, the old ones were noticeably swollen. I was surprised to find the battery at 57% upon completion and charging the new battery. No problems with replacement however, kit arrived without the Pentalobe driver. I got a nice complete kit from Amazon for 20 euro in 2 days. iFixit offered a coupon on any future purchase but right now, I have no plans on needing anything. Nice gesture but would have preferred the driver in the kit in the first place.

    Suggest having a small can of compressed air on hand to clean out the interior, after 4 years, mine was quite dirty. Ear buds and alcohol were the best I could do. And a magnetized driver is mandatory I think.

    D M - Replica

    REQUIRED PARTS (SCREWS) TO DO THIS JOB UNAVAILABLE HERE:

    If your keyboard is riveted to the chassis as mine is, Late 2013 MBP 13” retina, you need about 100 screws to reattach the new keyboard.

    ifixit does not have them. I did just now find them at Beetstech for $4.50 along with a back light $13 for the keyboard in case you want one. It looks like Beetstech is a big competitor of ifixit with an excellent reputation (like ifixit has) too. I just ordered these parts and will not happily be moving forward with my keyboard replacement.

    Timothy Hardman - Replica

    Fun Fact: I got three of the 2,3 mm Pentalopes … ;-)

    Paco Demant - Replica

    My PB had eight (8), 2.3 mm screws and two (2), 3.0 mm screws.

    ellamama - Replica

    Hi peeps,

    I have a wifi problem on this MBP 13” early 2015 and was pleasently surprised to find your guide to changing the airport card.

    However upon closer inspection it seems that on my MBP (purchased new or so I thought) the 3 antennae seem so have been soldered together at the point where they are clamped to the chassis. I have photos but cannot post here. Can anyone conform that where the 3 antennae wires are held to the chssis by the 2 scew metal support (just before disappearing into the screen hinge), the support is not meant to short the 3 wires together. This makes no sense for 3 seperate antennae wires.

    Any advice /close up photos is welcome here.

    dom

    colonel mustard - Replica

    Tip: Use post-it notes to keep track of screws

    1. Pack of post it notes

    2. Stick screws to the sticky part of the post it note

    3. Write on the post it note which step and what kind of screw it is

    ibash - Replica

    Hi, in order to drain the battery I am running:

    yes > /dev/null

    in 4 terminals, so the CPU maxes out at almost 99%.

    I hope this speeds up the battery draining process.

    And the backlight is at maximum brightness :-)

    You can see the cpu load in Activity Monitor.

    Its draining at 20% per 15 minutes.

    Any concerns about draining the battery in this way?

    Andre van der Ham - Replica

    Something I’ve been curious about, is it possible to upgrade a late 2013 Retina model MacBook Pro, with the improved 16gb ram and i7 processor logic board from the 2015 retina model? I’d be interested to try but not ready to shell out the $500+ to be the first lol

    Chat Dawgie - Replica

  1. Wedge your fingers between the upper case and the lower case.
    • Wedge your fingers between the upper case and the lower case.

    • Gently pull the lower case away from the upper case to remove it.

    This takes a bit more effort than you might expect. Put your fingers where shown and lift about 3inches. With enough upwards pressure the plastic holders will “pop free” and the bottom will come off easily.

    hamiltont - Replica

    Agreed. A decent amount of force is required here.

    Evan Shulman - Replica

    To reattach bottom case I found it helpful to line fingers up with clips under case should snap easily

    Peter Stoll - Replica

    Easy snapped off for me

    Jackie Malling - Replica

  2. The lower case is connected to the upper case with two plastic clips near its center. During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the two plastic clips.
    • The lower case is connected to the upper case with two plastic clips near its center.

    • During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the two plastic clips.

    What is the black vinyl-y sticker on the inside of the case (some sort of shield?). I was forced to slightly puncture it in order to replace the feet on my laptop. Thanks in advance.

    Tommy Huang - Replica

    When I got the back off, I found this piece loose, any idea what it is? about 9mm long frosted plastic

    https://imgur.com/a/tYaxGdG

    Fred Anderson - Replica

    This wording I found quite confusing. They just mean when putting the lid back on that you just removed in the previous step, push here.

    Mmm ttt - Replica

    I took my pointer and thumb (which are luckily long enough) to feel where the studs are on the back panel, and then as I put the back panel back on, I pushed in the spot I had marked with my fingers to ensure I was applying pressure only on this part.

    Evan Shulman - Replica

    Can you make a youtube video showing the steps? I am not sure how to proceed with this step. I want to see it done.

    Thanks.

    Carol Garrett - Replica

  3. If necessary, remove the plastic cover adhered to the battery contact board.
    • If necessary, remove the plastic cover adhered to the battery contact board.

    Do you know where I can purchase this plastic cover? Mine is missing and no one will work on my computer without it.

    jodieabc - Replica

    My new battery kit included a replacement for this part, so, no need to save the old one.

    Ralph Begleiter - Replica

    The aux in my mac works 1 out of 10 times , Is this relevant to me in order to solve the proplem ? I cant see aux input on the io board ?

    Wajde Fadool - Replica

  4. Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the battery connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board. Be sure you lift up only on the connector itself, not the socket, or you risk permanent damage to the logic board.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the battery connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Be sure you lift up only on the connector itself, not the socket, or you risk permanent damage to the logic board.

    I have a friends MacBook Pro that has some water damage that caused the MacBook not to be able to use battery power, but still work when plugged into A/C. Upon further inspection I can see visible corrosion on a few of the 9 cables going from the battery connector to that small circuit board. Is it possible to just replace that circuit board?

    jramsey21 - Replica

    I have the some problem. I was thinking to replace the whole battery but I am not it will solve the problem. Any suggestions?

    salvatorebarbera -

    Sometimes it can be enough to just clean the contacts without having to replace the entire board. Dosent work for complicated IC's like plcc type, where corrosion is underneath the chip. Here you will have to reheat and reapply the IC.

    andrehedegaard -

    Hi,have you find the solution for your battery? I also have same problem, run with plugs but it battery not supporting… as soon the plug of it goes off

    Jewel Rahman -

    Have either of you replaced the battery and/or circuit board to fix the MacBooks with the water damage ? I have the same problem with the MacBook working fine when connected to power but dying immediately when the power cord is removed.

    Steve - Replica

    Hi, Steve. I had the same problem: Macbook Pro 15 retina with coffee damage. And it worked fine when connected to power. I made it working after replacing the whole battery. It seems that circuit connected to the battery becomes disabled to prevent short circuit.

    Vadim Gribanov -

    When placing the battery connector back into the socket on the logic board, check that every part of connector is pressed down. You should hear a soft click when it's back in place.

    Ethan Tarquin - Replica

    Thanks for the comment. My MBP isn’t powering on after I walked through these steps, and I assume it is because the battery connector isn’t fully connected. (I can’t check yet since I borrowed the pentalobe screwdriver)

    Caleb Steinborn -

    +1

    I thought I made sure it was connected but when running the computer it only detected the battery but couldn’t power it. I had to run with power adapter. Also it didn’t charge. I guess some pins were connected but not all. To verify that all were connected I removed the plastic cover, placed it carefully completely flat, and then reattached the plastic cover. After that it worked!

    Jonas Ehrs -

    If I only want to replace the trackpad cable, then which steps should I skip? This step seems unnecessary

    Parth Gudhka - Replica

    This step is not unnecessary because you need to remove the battery before you can replace the trackpad

    Jeffrey Liu -

    Removing the battery connector took a bit of finagling. It wasn’t as easy as one would think. Be very careful when doing this as they warn to not damage it. Otherwise great instructions!!!!

    Peppon - Replica

    I replaced both my L and R speakers on my MBP mid-2014 13” withOUT doing this step.

    Evan Shulman - Replica

    I did the same thing, probably unnecessary to disconnect the battery. I’m not a technician however.

    Leo Toupin -

    I have verified I have this battery, and I have a mid-2014 macbook retina. And I swear i do not see this battery connector. I didn’t take the cover off, per other comments that said it was an unnecessary risk. What the heck? will I not see the battery cable without taking of that cover?

    martha - Replica

    How can i post a photo of what I am seeing …I don’t see the battery connector! not like in photo above. maybe I have to remove that plastic cover although others recommended not doing that (see above).

    martha - Replica

    ooops nevermind..I see it now! tks . But..there is SO much gunk/dust under there (old, hand me down, used by my teen daughter while eating in bed no doubt!) . Should I attempt to clean? Beyond just blowing on it? Is compressed air safe? Or should I just leave it be? Assuming I don’t break it while replacing this battery I’d like not to break it otherwise! tks

    martha - Replica

    Lift from the long, flat side, not the shorter side. In this picture, you should lift from the NORTH part of the connector, not the WEST side like they are doing. This is because you can spread the pressure from lifting the connector across more area, as compared to the side. I accidentally broke off part of my battery connector lifting it up the way shown, but was able to do it the way I described without problem. Make sure to lift from the wide part so you don’t have my same trouble!

    Jaden Salama - Replica

  5. Bend the battery connector up out of the way to prevent accidental contact with its socket during your repair.
    • Bend the battery connector up out of the way to prevent accidental contact with its socket during your repair.

    If you miss or let this step for later like I did, the power left in the battery even though the computer is completely shut down, will screw up the I/O board cable like I did. I noticed this after I put all the pieces back, turn the computer on and surprise, no wifi hardware is detected. -.-

    sebasgaes - Replica

    Not sure I understand: did leaving the battery plugged in permanently broke the I/O board (or anything else)?

    Adrien -

    I put a small piece of blue painters tape on the battery connector contacts to prevent it from accidentally making a connection and shorting. This helped keep things a bit more protected.

    LaymanLab - Replica

    That’s a great idea!

    David Lilliebridge - Replica

    I used a small piece of paper to prevent the connector from connecting, no need to wrestle with even low-stick adhesive.

    dbrick - Replica

    I replaced both my L and R speakers on my MBP mid-2014 13” withOUT doing this step.

    Evan Shulman - Replica

    I agree that inserting a small paper above between the socket and the connector was useful. I used post-it-note, but kept the adhesive away from the socket.

    Ralph Begleiter - Replica

  6. Carefully remove the rubber fan bumper from the edge of the heat sink. The fan bumper wraps around the heat sink and fits into slots in the fan duct. During reassembly, be sure to fit the tabs into the notches in the fan duct. The fan bumper wraps around the heat sink and fits into slots in the fan duct. During reassembly, be sure to fit the tabs into the notches in the fan duct.
    • Carefully remove the rubber fan bumper from the edge of the heat sink.

    • The fan bumper wraps around the heat sink and fits into slots in the fan duct. During reassembly, be sure to fit the tabs into the notches in the fan duct.

    For reassembly, I found it easier to loosen the lone top left 2.4 mm Phillips #000 before putting the fan bumper back in.

    Boston Hampton - Replica

    I don’t think you need to remove the heat sink for this

    Mike C - Replica

  7. Use the flat end of a spudger to peel the four foam stickers off of the heat sink screws. Use the flat end of a spudger to peel the four foam stickers off of the heat sink screws.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to peel the four foam stickers off of the heat sink screws.

    How should I reapply those little foam stickers? I guess not with normal glue.

    bboy.sidekick - Replica

    I found that the adhesive came up with the foam except for one screw. The adhesive just stuck to the head of the screw so I left it intact as much as possible and just pressed the foam back on. It doesn’t take much to keep them in place.

    Ryan Sooley - Replica

    If the new Logc Board coms with a heat sink attached, It is not necessary to remove the old one. Just unscrew the screw in the left corner of the heat sink and screws of the fan as well.

    Viktor Simeonov - Replica

  8. Remove the following screws securing the heat sink to the logic board:
    • Remove the following screws securing the heat sink to the logic board:

    • Four 2.6 mm T5 screws

    • One 2.4 mm Phillips #000 screw

    The cross-head screwdriver bit was not the #000, the #00 was the right one.

    Benjamin Hug - Replica

  9. Remove the heat sink from the laptop. When reassembling your computer, follow our thermal paste application guide to reapply the thermal paste.

    I bought all the tools necessary from iFixit except for the cleaning solutions for this step. You can just use isopropyl alcohol with a microfiber cloth to clean the thermal paste off before re-applying a new coat.

    Ryan Sooley - Replica

  10. Use the tip of a spudger to push on either side of the the iSight camera cable connector to walk it out of its socket on the logic board. Use the tip of a spudger to push on either side of the the iSight camera cable connector to walk it out of its socket on the logic board.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to push on either side of the the iSight camera cable connector to walk it out of its socket on the logic board.

    I found this to be the most difficult step. There is a need to get positioned so that you have the leverage to push hard enough at exactly the point shown in the photo without risking slipping and perhaps damaging the CPU nearby

    Tony M - Replica

    Very helpful tip from Tony.

    Thomas Sturgill - Replica

    I used two tools simultaneously. A spudger and a pic like spudger to walk it out.

    lucas - Replica

    Man muss den Stecker aus der Steckverbindung herausschieben, und nicht darauf drücken . In der englischsprachigen Anleitung steht auch push und nicht etwa press…

    Holger - Replica

    There are 2 black tabs either side - force them towards the back of the back of computer. It seemed to pop out super easily just doing it gently.

    Josh - Replica

    This step is very difficult. With care it could be omitted. After detach the cable from the glue on the back cover of fan, there is enough clearance to take the fan assembly out with a little pivoting, just be careful and don’t put too much stress on the table where it make a 90 downward turn to the connector. Reinstalling is just reverse and doable as well.

    Xiaokun Xu - Replica

    After readying all, trying Josh’s tip with no joy, I found that two nice sized fingernails made this easy x 2! Just push on each little indent simultaneously.

    Ross Elkins - Replica

  11. Peel the iSight camera cable off the fan housing to fold it out of the way. Peel the iSight camera cable off the fan housing to fold it out of the way.
    • Peel the iSight camera cable off the fan housing to fold it out of the way.

  12. Use the tip of a spudger to flip the tab on the fan's ZIF connector. Carefully pull the fan cable straight out of its socket. Carefully pull the fan cable straight out of its socket.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip the tab on the fan's ZIF connector.

    • Carefully pull the fan cable straight out of its socket.

    my cable was glued, had to be pryed up first.

    maccentric - Replica

    I found it a bit difficult to know exactly when the new one is back in position.

    steffen - Replica

  13. Remove the following screws securing the fan to the upper case:
    • Remove the following screws securing the fan to the upper case:

    • One 5.0 mm T5 Torx screw

    • Two 3.6 mm T5 Torx screws

    When reinstalling, do the screw closest to the front of the computer first.

    Steve Wechsler - Replica

  14. Lift the end of the fan closest to the display hinge and remove the fan from the upper case. Lift the end of the fan closest to the display hinge and remove the fan from the upper case. Lift the end of the fan closest to the display hinge and remove the fan from the upper case.
    • Lift the end of the fan closest to the display hinge and remove the fan from the upper case.

    Um, this guide should include steps for applying thermal paste, including instructions to clean the mating surfaces, and pictures showing how much thermal paste to use.

    TheIronGiant - Replica

    Hi @theirongiant, there are generic thermal paste application instructions linked in the introduction “Don't forget to follow our thermal paste application guide before you reinstall your heat sink.”

    Sam Goldheart -

    Make sure to put the end furthest away from the hinge under the ribbon cable first.

    Then place the hinge side. The screw furthest away from the hinge is partially obscured by the ribbon cable.

    If not placed correctly, ribbon cable damage may result.

    toodarkpark - Replica

  15. Remove the two 2.1 mm T5 Torx screws securing the I/O board cable bracket to the logic board. Remove the I/O board cable bracket.
    • Remove the two 2.1 mm T5 Torx screws securing the I/O board cable bracket to the logic board.

    • Remove the I/O board cable bracket.

  16. Use the flat end of a spudger to pop the I/O board connector straight up off its socket on the logic board. Be careful to only pry up on the I/O board cable, not on the socket itself or you risk damaging your logic board.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pop the I/O board connector straight up off its socket on the logic board.

    • Be careful to only pry up on the I/O board cable, not on the socket itself or you risk damaging your logic board.

  17. Lift the logic board end of the I/O board cable straight up to bend it out of the way. To avoid damage to the cable, fold only at the bend in the I/O board end of the cable.
    • Lift the logic board end of the I/O board cable straight up to bend it out of the way.

    • To avoid damage to the cable, fold only at the bend in the I/O board end of the cable.

  18. Use the tip of a spudger to lift the right speaker connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board. Use the tip of a spudger to lift the right speaker connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to lift the right speaker connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board.

  19. With the tip of a spudger, push on either side of the I/O board connector to walk it out of its socket on the logic board. With the tip of a spudger, push on either side of the I/O board connector to walk it out of its socket on the logic board.
    • With the tip of a spudger, push on either side of the I/O board connector to walk it out of its socket on the logic board.

    Having a hard time at this step. Any suggestions? it's just not walking out.

    Moki - Replica

    Use your fingernails to pinch the sides of the clip inwards to release the connector. I couldn’t walk it out either, both sides needed to be pushed in simultaneously to pull it out of the socket.

    maccentric - Replica

    Do not pull from the cables end. you will risk separating thin cables from connector head. Use spudger tip to push it out.

    lamajr - Replica

  20. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the keyboard backlight cable and bend it up out of the way of the logic board. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the keyboard backlight cable and bend it up out of the way of the logic board. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the keyboard backlight cable and bend it up out of the way of the logic board.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the keyboard backlight cable and bend it up out of the way of the logic board.

  21. Grab the black plastic tab to flip the display cable connector open and pull it straight out of its socket on the logic board. Grab the black plastic tab to flip the display cable connector open and pull it straight out of its socket on the logic board. Grab the black plastic tab to flip the display cable connector open and pull it straight out of its socket on the logic board.
    • Grab the black plastic tab to flip the display cable connector open and pull it straight out of its socket on the logic board.

  22. Carefully pull the DC-In board connector straight out of its socket on the logic board. Carefully pull the DC-In board connector straight out of its socket on the logic board.
    • Carefully pull the DC-In board connector straight out of its socket on the logic board.

  23. Wedge the flat end of a spudger under the left speaker cable near the connector and lift it straight up out of its socket and fold it out of the way. Wedge the flat end of a spudger under the left speaker cable near the connector and lift it straight up out of its socket and fold it out of the way. Wedge the flat end of a spudger under the left speaker cable near the connector and lift it straight up out of its socket and fold it out of the way.
    • Wedge the flat end of a spudger under the left speaker cable near the connector and lift it straight up out of its socket and fold it out of the way.

  24. If necessary, peel back any tape covering the microphone cable ZIF connector. If necessary, peel back any tape covering the microphone cable ZIF connector.
    • If necessary, peel back any tape covering the microphone cable ZIF connector.

  25. Use the tip of a spudger to flip the retaining tab on the microphone cable ZIF connector. Pull the microphone cable out of its socket on the logic board. Pull the microphone cable out of its socket on the logic board.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip the retaining tab on the microphone cable ZIF connector.

    • Pull the microphone cable out of its socket on the logic board.

  26. If necessary, peel back any tape covering the keyboard cable connector. Use the tip of a spudger to flip the retaining tab on the ZIF connector. Use the tip of a spudger to flip the retaining tab on the ZIF connector.
    • If necessary, peel back any tape covering the keyboard cable connector.

    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip the retaining tab on the ZIF connector.

  27. Pull the keyboard cable straight out of its ZIF socket on the logic board. Pull the keyboard cable straight out of its ZIF socket on the logic board.
    • Pull the keyboard cable straight out of its ZIF socket on the logic board.

  28. If necessary, peel back any tape covering the trackpad cable connector. Use the tip of a spudger to flip the retaining tab on the ZIF connector. Use the tip of a spudger to flip the retaining tab on the ZIF connector.
    • If necessary, peel back any tape covering the trackpad cable connector.

    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip the retaining tab on the ZIF connector.

  29. Pull the trackpad ribbon cable straight out of its socket on the logic board. Pull the trackpad ribbon cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.
    • Pull the trackpad ribbon cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.

  30. Remove the five 3.5 mm T5 Torx screws securing the logic board to the upper case.
    • Remove the five 3.5 mm T5 Torx screws securing the logic board to the upper case.

    • When reassembling, install all five screws loosely, position the logic board, and then tighten evenly.

  31. Lift the processor end of the logic board up slightly and pull it toward the fan recess to free the ports from the edge of the upper case. Remove the logic board. When reinstalling, make sure the keyboard, keyboard backlight, MagSafe, and microphone cables don't get trapped beneath the logic board.
    • Lift the processor end of the logic board up slightly and pull it toward the fan recess to free the ports from the edge of the upper case.

    • Remove the logic board.

    • When reinstalling, make sure the keyboard, keyboard backlight, MagSafe, and microphone cables don't get trapped beneath the logic board.

    • Also be sure to slide the ports' metal EMI fingers under the side of the case, not over.

  32. Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the SSD to the logic board.
    • Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the SSD to the logic board.

    It looks like this picture is not a 820-4924-A motherboard (A1502 2015 13in. MBPr). It must come from a previous version of Macbook pros. Don’t panic if the RAM chips on the top right corner do not look exactly the same on your board and on this picture.

    Alex AVRON - Replica

  33. Lift the free end of the SSD up slightly and pull it straight out of its socket on the logic board. Lift the free end of the SSD up slightly and pull it straight out of its socket on the logic board. Lift the free end of the SSD up slightly and pull it straight out of its socket on the logic board.
    • Lift the free end of the SSD up slightly and pull it straight out of its socket on the logic board.

Conclusione

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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Sam Goldheart

Membro da: 18/10/2012

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Hi @sam !

I have a macbook pro 13" retina i5 2.6 8gb mid 2014 Model. A1502 and it has the damaged board.

In SAT, I changed it for 600 euros to replace it.

I have found a logicboard used for this same model A1502 (i7 3.0 Ghz 8Gb Ram) for half price and I would like to know if it is possible to replace it for this, or the mac will give me some problem when plugging a logicboard with different characteristics that the original?

Thanks for you support !

neotic82 - Replica

Question: Can I put a 2014 logic board in a 2015 model? I have a water damaged MF839LL/a 2015 model, but I can get a MGX72LL/a 2014 model logic board for cheap. Thanks!

Danny M - Replica

Sam, thank you so much! Repair guide worked perfectly for removing logic board to clean corrosion after a water spill on the keyboard! Everything was exactly as picture and explained. I have two questions I was hoping Sam or someone else knowledgeable could answer.

1. Can/ should I replace the foam stickers from the heat sink screws (step 8)? If so, what kind of computer safe adhesive should I use to ensure that they stay in place?

2. Should the plastic cover adhered to the battery contact board in step 4 be replaced?

Andrew Lingousky - Replica

Thanks from the bottom of my feet for the excellent guide, my water-damaged mac lives again! Everything works but the power button…

stupple82 - Replica

Hi Sam,

It is possible to remove the logic board without taking out the heat sink first? I am really not sure I can do the procedure of putting back the heat sink on reassembly with the reapplication of new thermal paste. I know that is critical in the operation of the processor which makes sure it does not burn with excessive heat. Please advice. Thanks.

joey_garcia_ph - Replica

i have a water damaged MBP Retina, it still works but fans ramp up to full speed immediately and it seems like it’s thermal throttling. any suggestions how to fix it ?

leoworrall - Replica

Guys want to ask you in this mbp efi chip is on the downside of logic board? not on the side that you face when just open the case like in the same but 15’ model, right?

And is it safe to connect battery charger while logic board is disassembled from mbp? I need it to recognize a chip

Серёжа Маричелли - Replica

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