• Remove the following ten screws securing the lower case to the upper case:

    • Two 2.3 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

    • Eight 3.0 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

  • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your device.

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Wedge your fingers between the upper case and the lower case.
  • Wedge your fingers between the upper case and the lower case.

  • Gently pull the lower case away from the upper case.

  • Remove the lower case and set it aside.

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  • The lower case is connected to the upper case at the center, with two plastic clips.

  • During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the two plastic clips.

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  • Remove the plastic cover adhered to the battery contact board.

This plastic cover wasn’t included with the new battery so I placed the original one back in. Was it supposed to go back in? This detail wasn’t clear since the original cover didn’t fit exactly over the newer battery connector. Plus any stickiness of adhesive that may have been there was gone.

arnolfo santoro - Replica

  • Remove the following screws securing the battery connector board to the logic board:

    • Two 2.8 mm T6 Torx screws

    • One 7.0 mm T6 Torx shouldered screw

Top screw in this image was not a T6. I found that a T5 bit fit this one.

Alex Grayson - Replica

  • Use tweezers to remove the small plastic cover located near the bottom right of the battery connector board.

Is adhered to screw beneath, so lift firmly and slowly.

Andrew - Replica

  • Remove the wide head 6.4 mm T6 Torx screw securing the battery connector to the logic board assembly.

I lost this screw! How important is it? Will it be okay with just the 3 previously removed screws?

Gerardo Jimenez - Replica

  • Carefully lift the battery connector board up off the logic board.

  • It is recommended to bend the battery cables just slightly, to keep the board suspended up above the logic board and out of the way.

  • Do not fold the board completely over, or crease the cables, as this may damage the battery.

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  • Grasp the Interposer with tweezers.

    • An interposer is the name for an interface that links one electrical connection to another. In this repair, it is the board connecting the battery to logic board.

  • Lift the Interposer off the logic board and remove it.

    • Removing this board will ensure that the battery remains disconnected throughout your repair, preventing your computer from accidentally powering on. It's also a good idea to take it out so it doesn't fall out unexpectedly.

WHy to remove battery contact board? Replace can happen without it also, right.

Behram Beldagli - Replica

You don’t want to work on a live system as you could damage parts

Dan -

How can I remove interposer I m not able to remove it

Raunak - Replica

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the right side of the I/O board data cable connector up off its socket on the I/O board.

  • When prying the I/O board data cable connector from its socket, make sure to pry the connector itself and not the socket. Prying the socket may cause irreversible damage to the I/O board.

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  • Wedge the flat end of a spudger beneath the left side of the I/O board data cable connector.

  • Gently twist the spudger to disconnect the I/O board data cable connector from its socket on the logic board.

This step is NOT really necessary. The trackpad can be removed with this cable still in place.

Robert - Replica

  • Lift and remove the I/O board data cable from the MacBook Pro.

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  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the SSD cable connector up from its socket on the logic board.

  • Move the SSD cable connector out of the way.

Because it is attached to the battery with a tiny bit of tape near where the spudger is in the picture, this cable should probably be loosened. But it is NOT necessary to remove the speaker entirely.

Robert - Replica

  • Wedge the flat end of a spudger beneath the right speaker cable connector.

  • Gently pry the right speaker cable connector up off from its socket on the logic board.

  • Be sure you are prying up on the connector, not the socket itself.

When reassembling be careful that the right speaker wire is flush against the battery. At first, it was slightly touching the airport/bluetooth board causing wifi and bluetooth to not work after restarting.

Stu - Replica

NOT truly necessary to remove either speaker.

Robert - Replica

  • Remove the following screws securing the right speaker to the upper case:

    • One 6.8 mm T5 Torx screw

    • Two 6.3 mm T5 Torx screws

  • The corner screw may be covered with a foam pad. If so, use your tweezers to peel it up and remove it.

There are two 6.8mm screws, both fit to the side of the Macbook.

Bhoom Suktitipat - Replica

On my "Early 2013" A1425 EMC2672 the corner screw is under some metallic foam that needs to be removed with tweezers or the corner of a spudger before the screw can be accessed.

Matt Sephton - Replica

On my Early 2013 A1425 EMC2672 the corner screw is covered by foam that needs to be removed with tweezers or the corner of a spudger before the screw can be accessed.

Matt Sephton - Replica

For me the corner screw was covered by metal sponge that needs to be removed before the screw can be accessed.

Matt Sephton - Replica

For me the corner screw was covered by metal sponge

Matt Sephton - Replica

For me the corner screw was covered

Matt Sephton - Replica

  • Lift and remove the right speaker out of the upper case.

  • If necessary, de-route the right speaker cable from its channel in the upper case.

NOT necessary to remove this speaker.

Robert - Replica

Yes it is…the speakers cover up the three screws on each side that hold in the battery.

Redwolf - Replica

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the headphone jack cable connector straight up off its socket on the logic board.

  • Gently bend the headphone jack cable to 90° up from the logic board.

  • Bending the headphone jack cable will allow you to disconnect the left speaker cable connector without having the headphone jack cable in the way.

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  • Wedge the tip of a spudger beneath the left speaker cable connector.

  • Gently pry the left speaker cable connector up off from its socket on the logic board.

  • Be sure you are prying up on the connector, not the socket itself.

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  • Remove the following screws securing the left speaker to the upper case:

    • One 6.8 mm T5 Torx screw (top right)

    • Two 6.3 mm T5 Torx screws

  • The corner screw may be covered with a foam pad. If so, use your tweezers to peel it up and remove it.

The 6.3mm screw appears to be on the lower central part of the Macbook that I'm working on.

Bhoom Suktitipat - Replica

On my Early 2013 A1425 EMC2672 the screw in the corner is under some metallic foam that needs to be removed before the screw.

Matt Sephton - Replica

Be very careful on this step. If you aren’t you can snap the plastic on the corners where the screws go in. Remember to go slowly when spinning the screws back in, it doesn’t take gorilla torque to tighten them, just take it easy!

Stacey Deel - Replica

  • Lift and remove the left speaker out of the upper case.

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  • Use your thumb or finger to bend the plastic spring bar on the SSD tray, freeing the two clips at the front side of the device.

  • While holding the spring bar depressed, tilt the SSD assembly up out of its cavity.

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  • Remove the SSD assembly from the upper case.

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  • Remove three 2.2 mm T5 Torx screws from each side of the battery (six screws total).

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  • The liquid adhesive remover provided in your kit can affect the antireflective coating on your MacBook Pro's display.

  • To protect your display, place a sheet of aluminum foil between the display and keyboard and leave it there while you work.

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  • Now that your MacBook Pro is fully prepped, it's time to prep yourself.

  • iFixit adhesive remover contains acetone, a mild skin and eye irritant.

    • Wear eye protection when handling and applying the adhesive remover. (Eye protection is included in your kit.)

    • Do not wear contact lenses without eye protection.

    • Protective gloves are also included in your kit. If you are concerned about skin irritation, put your gloves on now.

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  • Pull off the black rubber stopper from your bottle of adhesive remover.

  • Twist to loosen or remove the bottle cap before you cut the applicator tip.

    • This unseals the bottle and allows the pressure to equalize before you cut the applicator tip. If you skip this step, the adhesive remover may spray out unexpectedly when the tip is cut.

  • Use scissors to cut off the sealed tip of the applicator.

    • Cutting close to the narrow tip will give you better control so you can apply the adhesive remover in small amounts.

  • Twist and close the bottle cap securely before you proceed further.

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  • Apply a few drops of adhesive remover evenly under the edge of the leftmost battery cell.

    • You don't need to use very much. The small bottle contains more than twice the amount of solvent needed to remove all the battery cells.

  • Wait 2-3 minutes for the liquid adhesive remover to penetrate underneath the battery cell before you proceed to the next step.

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  • Insert the flat edge of a spudger or plastic card underneath the leftmost battery cell.

  • Run your tool along the bottom perimeter of the battery cell and lift to begin separating the adhesive.

This is the most difficult step. The tip of my spudger got bended and the aluminum case damaged it.

Ahmed Almulhim - Replica

I also broke a spudger trying to do this. Eventually I figured out it is easier to go in diagonally from the corner, just to one side of the screw hole, and lever until you hear the adhesive pad tear and give way.

Matt Sephton - Replica

we use a hair dryer and gently blow hot air in between the battery for a good minute before trying to lift it with a spunger. It worked wonderfully! When lifting, just give it constant force upward and you'll hear the battery slowly breaking away from the macbook, and we don't even see glue residues on our macbook at all. Just be patient. :)

Allen Lin - Replica

Just a note to say that the above comments were written before the liquid adhesive remover was added to the guide—you should definitely NOT be breaking any spudgers using the current procedure, which requires very little force. I recommend using plastic cards rather than spudgers—it's pretty easy to slide them under each battery cell and separate the adhesive once the solvent has done its work.

Jeff Suovanen - Replica

This is much easier to do using a plastic card. Just slide the card under the side of the battery and rock it back and forth. The battery will separate pretty quickly with minimal residue.

lukecparr -

by a plastic card, do you mean a credit card type thing? thanks in advance.

Jennifer McPherson - Replica

Exactly—one of these or an old credit card should work fine.

Jeff Suovanen -

  • Insert the spudger along the left-hand side of the leftmost battery cell.

  • Run the spudger up along the left side of the leftmost battery cell.

  • Slightly pry the leftmost battery cell to release it from the adhesive.

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  • Repeat the above steps to separate the adjacent battery cell from its adhesive:

    • Apply a few drops of liquid adhesive remover under the battery cell.

    • Wait 2-3 minutes for the adhesive remover to penetrate and soften the adhesive.

    • Carefully wedge a spudger or plastic card inwards, being careful to not damage the battery, and separate the battery cell from the adhesive securing it to your MacBook Pro.

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  • Insert the flat end of a spudger underneath the larger leftmost battery cell.

  • Carefully wedge the spudger inwards, being careful to not damage the battery cells.

  • Pry the larger leftmost battery cell up off the upper case.

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  • Grasp the battery cells and gently move (but do not remove) them from their recess in the upper case.

  • Leave the battery cells resting on top of the upper case as shown in the third picture.

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  • Switch sides and repeat the above procedure for the two battery cells on the right-hand side of the MacBook Pro.

    • Remember to add a small amount of liquid adhesive remover under each battery cell, and wait 2-3 minutes for it to penetrate before prying up the cell.

    • Be careful not to puncture or otherwise damage the battery cells.

Puncturing the battery’s protective covering can lead to release of caustic fumes or fire.

Chris Leeds - Replica

  • Lift the battery as a whole up out of the upper case, and remove the battery.

  • Before installing a new battery, remove all the old adhesive from the MacBook Pro's case.

    • With a little luck, you can slowly pull out each strip of adhesive with your fingers.

    • Otherwise, soak each section of adhesive with a bit of adhesive remover for 2-3 minutes, and then scrape it out with an opening pick or one of the other tools in your kit. This can take quite a bit of work, so be patient.

    • Mop up any remaining adhesive remover and give your MacBook Pro a few minutes to air dry.

  • The replacement battery included in your iFixit kit comes with adhesive pre-installed. Test the battery's fit and alignment carefully before peeling off the film covering the adhesive, and then press each cell firmly into place. If any additional films/liners are present that weren't on your original battery, remove them now.

  • Calibrate your new battery before using it: allow it to drain overnight, then charge it to 100% and drain it again until your MacBook Pro shuts down automatically. Charge it again and use it normally.

  • If you notice any unusual behavior or problems after installing your new battery, you may need to reset your MacBook Pro's SMC.

During battery replacement take care to position the two left and right battery packs inwards and upwards towards the macbook center such, that there is sufficient space for reinstallation of the two speakers!

Fred Ziegler - Replica

If you're replacing the top case that includes a new battery, can't you skip removal of the battery?

jaredcastello - Replica

Wie setze ich die Zyklen wieder auf 0 wenn ich einen neuen Akku verbaut habe?

Albert Zweistein - Replica

@Albert: you don’t need to reset the cycles as it is done automatically.

Serge Struß - Replica

When you are at this step and before you put the new battery in, take the time to clean your computer really well. You will be surprised how much dust/dirt and even pet hairs have gotten into your computer. After I removed the battery, I use a little more of the acetone to clean the bays up and after it dried, I used a tiny bit of Isopropyl Alcohol to make sure there was a good clean area for the new bonding. Make sure you clean the fans. Don’t use a toothbrush or anything like that. If your have a Lowes or Home Depot, you can buy a shop vac attachment kit for about $20, it’s well worth it. Don’t use that air in a can crap, it will put moisture on circuits. Take your time, it’s not a hard task to do everything, just use a little patience.

Stacey Deel - Replica

thanks to everyone for the helpful comments along with this really good tick list of things to do. The main thing I have learned is, I don’t have the patience to do this so I am taking my macbook pro (early 2013) 90 odd miles to my nearest Apple store with a Genuis bar. They can sort it for me. They might charge a lot to do it, but at least it will be them risking messing the process up not me! Thanks again.

Jennifer McPherson - Replica

Really well done on this. I followed it to a T. Perfect. Thank you for all your work on this.

Stephen Johnson - Replica

Excellently communicated.

Andrew Goldberg - Replica

I wouldn’t have thought to drain my old battery! (Which means I cannot begin my ‘new battery install’ until later today.

Andrew Goldberg - Replica

  • Use the tip of a spudger to push the edges of the I/O board connector straight out of its socket on the logic board.

  • It is recommended to carefully push on both sides of the connector to "walk" it out of its socket.

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  • Use the tip of a spudger to push the iSight camera cable connector straight away from its socket on the logic board.

  • It is recommended to carefully push on both sides of the connector to "walk" it out of its socket.

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  • Move the iSight camera cable aside.

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  • Wedge the flat end of a spudger underneath the keyboard backlight connector and the logic board.

  • Gently twist the flat end of a spudger upwards to pry the keyboard backlight connector up off its socket on the logic board.

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  • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the trackpad ribbon cable ZIF socket.

  • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

  • Grasp the plastic pull tab and pull the trackpad ribbon cable out of its socket.

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  • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF socket.

  • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

  • Grasp the plastic pull tab and pull the keyboard ribbon cable out of its socket.

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  • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the microphone ribbon cable ZIF socket.

  • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

  • Grasp the plastic pull tab and pull the microphone ribbon cable out of its socket.

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  • Use the tip of a spudger to rotate the pull tab secured to the display data cable lock toward the DC-In side of the computer.

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  • Gently push the edges of the display data cable connector away from its socket on the logic board.

  • It is recommended "walk" the connector out of its socket. Simply push the top and bottom corners of the connector and carefully "walk it out" of its socket.

  • Pull, but do not remove, the display data cable connector out of its socket and carefully move it out of the way.

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  • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the left fan ribbon cable ZIF socket.

  • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

  • Carefully pull the left fan ribbon cable out of its socket.

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  • Move the left fan ribbon cable aside to reveal a hidden screw securing the logic board assembly to the upper case.

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  • Remove the following screws securing the logic board to the upper case:

    • Eight 3.3 mm T5 Torx screws

    • One Phillips #00 screw

    • Two 3.1 mm T5 Torx screws

  • Remove two more screws, from the MagSafe DC-In board in the upper right corner (second image).

    • Two 3.4 mm T5 Torx screws

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  • Carefully lift the logic board assembly from its left side and work it out of the upper case, minding any cables and the I/O ports that may get caught during removal.

  • Pull the right I/O port side of the logic board away from the side of the upper case and remove the logic board assembly.

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  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry and disconnect the three antenna cable connectors from the AirPort board.

  • The three cables are coded with black sleeves of different lengths. During reassembly:

    • Connect the long-sleeved cable to the center socket.

    • The short-sleeved cable connects next to the screw.

    • The remaining cable has no sleeve, and connects in the last empty socket, next to the fan.

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  • Remove the following two screws securing the I/O board to the upper case:

    • One 3.53 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 4.89 mm T8 Torx standoff screw

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  • Carefully pull and remove the I/O board away from its recess in the upper case.

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  • Remove the two 3.4 mm T5 Torx screws securing the headphone jack to the upper case.

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  • Lift and remove the headphone jack out of the upper case.

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  • Use a pair of tweezers to lift the rubber hinge covers up off the right and left display hinges.

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  • Remove the 3.2 mm T5 Torx screws (one on each side) securing the aluminum hinge brackets to the upper case.

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  • Use a pair of tweezers to lift aluminum hinge brackets off the right and left display hinges.

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  • Remove the four inner 5.3 mm T8 Torx screws (two on each side) securing the display to the upper case.

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  • Open the MacBook Pro approximately 110 degrees, and place it sideways on the table, as shown.

  • While holding the display and upper case together with your left hand, remove the remaining T8 Torx screw from the lower display bracket.

  • Be sure to hold the display and upper case together with your left hand. Failure to do so may cause the freed display/upper case to fall, potentially damaging each component.

  • Remove the last remaining T8 Torx screw securing the display to the upper case.

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  • Grip both halves of the device, one in each hand.

  • Gently push forward on the bottom half of the device to detach it from the display assembly.

  • Carefully set each component aside, making sure to set down the lower half keyboard-side down.

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  • Remove the following screws securing the trackpad to the upper case:

    • Four 1.4 mm Phillips #000 screws

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  • Wedge the spudger between the trackpad ribbon cable and the upper case.

  • Run the spudger along the bottom to release the trackpad ribbon cable from the adhesive securing it to the upper case.

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  • Insert the tip of a spudger in between the trackpad ribbon cable and the upper case.

  • Carefully thread the trackpad ribbon cable out of the notch near the top of the SSD assembly cavity.

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  • Once the trackpad is free of the upper case, guide the trackpad ribbon cable through the slot cut in the upper case.

  • Remove the trackpad from the upper case.

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  • For this step, it is recommended to use a heat gun or hair dryer to soften the adhesive securing the microphone assembly to the upper case. You may be able to remove it without doing so, but will risk damaging the microphone cable.

  • With the heat gun set to low, heat the microphone assembly to loosen the adhesive attaching it to the upper case.

  • Be very careful not to overheat the microphones or upper case. Keep in mind that the plastic keyboard is on the other side—too much heat in a single place can melt keys.

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  • Use the tip of a spudger to remove the piece of tape covering one of two microphones.

  • Grasp the piece of tape with a pair of tweezers and remove it.

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  • Repeat the same procedure as the previous step to remove the tape covering the second microphone.

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  • Wedge the tip of a spudger underneath the microphone assembly cable.

  • Run the spudger up along the bottom of the microphone assembly cable to separate it from the upper case.

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  • Gently wedge the tip of a spudger underneath the second microphone and push inwards to loosen the adhesive.

  • At this point the second microphone should be completely detached from the upper case.

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  • Carefully pry the first microphone up off the upper case.

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  • Lift and remove the microphone assembly out of the upper case.

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  • Upper case remains.

Hey guys

Can i just replace the keyboard in this type of mac? I've ordered one online as the P key has died.

I can't find just a keyboard replacement guide but hope I can just replace that cheaper component...

Cheers

B

Bill Wood - Replica

Conclusione

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Altre 5 persone hanno completato questa guida.

Sam Lionheart

Membro da: 18/10/2012

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Always order a new battery. Saves you another repair.

John - Replica

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