Introduzione
Use this guide to replace the LCD cable connected inside the hinge of your MacBook Pro Retina Display Assembly.
Cosa ti serve
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Remove the following ten screws securing the lower case to the upper case:
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Two 2.3 mm P5 Pentalobe screws
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Eight 3.0 mm P5 Pentalobe screws
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Use tweezers to remove the small plastic cover located near the bottom right of the battery connector board.
when doing this with metal tweezers as instructed in the video, it was difficult to get off and apparently while i was trying to do it, the tweezers went too far under and i believe made contact with the screw underneath? there was a zzz noise, an orange flicker and a little stream of smoke that came out. i freaked out and put everything back together to see if the laptop even still worked, it turned on and everything but died right away (i drained it before doing the repair anyway, so i was surprised it turned on at all).
i finished the battery repair and did several other things while in there. i have charged it all the way as recommended and will use it later on to see how everything is, im hoping that it’s a okay, but could someone explain to me what happened and the possible consequences?
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Grasp the Interposer with tweezers.
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Lift the Interposer off the logic board and remove it.
you must lift it absolutely vertically, or it fouls against the locator pin in the corner- you can easily get the impression that it won’t come over the end of this pin- almost like it’s rivetted in. it isn’t. get a good grip on it with the tweezers in the centre hole & one of the sides, & lift it STRAIGHT up.
I would recommend to use plastic tweezers in order to reduce risk of damage.
wat is the model this SSD
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Use the tip of a spudger to push the iSight camera cable connector straight away from its socket on the logic board.
This was the hardest part of the repair for me. The iSight cable was really lodged in its socket. "Walking" the connector as the guide suggests -- i.e. pushing on each side alternately at a 45 degree angle (with more force than I expected) -- eventually worked.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry and disconnect the three antenna cable connectors from the AirPort board.
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The three cables are coded with black sleeves of different lengths. During reassembly:
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Connect the long-sleeved cable to the socket closest to the ports.
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The short-sleeved cable connects next to the screw.
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The remaining cable has no sleeve, and connects in the last empty socket, next to the fan.
The long-sleeved and short-sleeved antenna cables are switched compared to this guide, on my Macbook Pro A1425. Maybe note which order they are in on your machine, since apparently they differ. http://i.imgur.com/r9g9ZXS.jpg
Be very careful with these, I wasn't and two of the cables detached from the connectors!!
As two other users have mentioned, the long-and short-sleeved cables for my late 2012/early 2013 A1425 were not in the order mentioned in the guide. If the laptop is positioned with fan in the upper left corner, the order (left to right) is short sleeve, long sleeve, no sleeve. If it is positioned as it is in the photo with the fan in the lower right, the order (left to right) is no sleeve, long sleeve, short sleeve.
I also found my cables were not as described in the guide. They were as @kagnew described.
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Move the antenna cables aside, clear of the AirPort board.
The display assembly has a metal retaining clip attached to the airport cables. I didn’t notice how this was positioned during disassembly, and it wasn’t mentioned in the guide. When I was reassembling the device, I found that it fit perfectly over the Torx T8 screws holding the display to the case. Attaching it here holds the airport cables nicely in place and out of the way.
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Grab the black pull tab secured to the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the DC-In side of the computer.
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Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.
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Remove the two 3.1 mm T5 Torx screws securing the aluminum hinge brackets.
I ended up stripping one of these out and had to use a T6 and some delicate pressure to get it out. Be careful.
The T6 and a lot of downward pressure ended up doing the trick for me. YMMV
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Remove the four inner 5.3 mm T8 Torx screws (two on each side) securing the display to the upper case.
There is a retainer for the airport cables that goes beneath the left and center screws.
My screws were covered with a thin tape, much like scotch tape. I used tweezers to remove it.
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With the display facing towards you and the plastic clutch cover down, grab the clutch cover and slide it all the way to the right, towards the hinge.
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Lift the plastic cover from the bottom and remove it from the display.
I was able to remove this plastic peace by sliding to the right, and then it came out. You need to apply some force in order to do this.
There’s a minor addition on how you do this. There are covers on both the ends of this clutch cover and they are connected like a hinge. For some models, it’s sliding this clutch cover to right and then you need to turn this clutch cover anti-clockwise and you’ll hear some clicking sounds affirming that the clutch cover is disconnected. Atleast this worked in my case :) .
This plastic cover is clearly not meant to be removed. There are small plastic catches under it as well as on the two plastic end covers. I found that it was impossible to remove it without breaking them. Sliding to the right is correct, but unfortunately the plastic was quite brittle and mine snapped in half.
I used this on a late-2013 model and found the plastic cover had side walls on both ends. Unfortunately they broke off when moving cover to the right.
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Peel up the tape covering the cable connector.
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Remove the two screws securing the cable to the case:
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Two T8 Torx screws.
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Remove the six screws securing the antenna assembly in place:
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Six PH00 Phillips screws.
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Lift the antenna assembly to reveal the LCD cable connector underneath the left side.
some tabs need to be lifted up on the bottom face of the antenna assembly before lifting straight off, I used a spudger to lever them off
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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5 Commenti
Hi,
Can anyone help me ? It might be possible that my MacBook Pro 13” early 2015 restarts by it self once in a few minutes because this cable is slightly damaged? It had before LCD problems and has been serviced. As I have noticed, when I touch the cable and move it a little bit, computer restarts immediately, so I thought this might be the restarting problem.
(I have to say that I have already tried other options : I have fresh reinstalled the operating system, so theres no software issue, I have repasted the processor, I have checked the cables connections). The only strange thing is that it doesn’t turn on with the battery disconnected…
Does anyone have any suggestion?
Thanks a lot!!
Are there instructions using the MacBook Pro (Retina, 15-inch, Early 2013)? The inside is completely different. Alas.
I'm getting this because the hing broke. The real problem is both hinges have broken. Seems like the other hinge is not possible to replace. Is that right? Will just this one side be enough to open with light use? My Mac is a early 2013 15inch pro. Model A1398
This works on a mid-2015 Pro Retina also. The display is *slightly* different in that the black antenna cover does not simply slide to one side and come off. It has little tiny end caps that can be popped on/off. Apart from that and the antenna had one more screw all the way on the right (away from the display connecter) that doesn’t have to be removed to just lift up the antenna and while holding the antenna slightly up, you can remove and replace the LCD connector. All else was the same and I was able to fix my Mid 2015 MacBook Retina Pro. Thanks iFixit!!!
Hey peeps, hope you are all doing well
I have a backlight issue with my MacBook Pro early 2013 Retina display 13 in and I am trying to figure out where the issue is stemming from. I am wondering if i could use the LCD cable from an older model (Unibody mid 2010 matchbook pro 13in), would that work or be compatible with my current device? Any insight would be highly appreciated, Thank you.
If don’t have one of those neat project mats, then you can use small pieces of flattened blu-tack to hold the screws. If you arrange them in the shape of your mac book cover, and put the screws down methodically, you can get a one-to-one mapping of the screws to the correct screw holes.
Toby Thurston - Replica
Or you can use an ice tray where you put the screws and the parts in separate bays in the same order as they come in the instructions.
timofej.se -
This is great! I used a small magnetic white board, and wrote on it to identify the parts as I went. This whole process, from the fast shipment to the great instructions to the complete, high quality, tool kit has been great. I’m typing this comment on my resurrected laptop. Thank you! Sue
Susan Greer - Replica