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MacBook Air 13" Mid 2011 Upper Case Replacement

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  1. MacBook Air 13" Mid 2011 Upper Case Replacement, Lower Case: passo 1, immagine 1 di 1
    Attrezzo utilizzato in questo passaggio:
    P5 Pentalobe Screwdriver Retina MacBook Pro and Air
    $5.99
    Compra
    • Before proceeding, power down your MacBook. Close the display and lay it on a soft surface, top-side down.

    • Use a P5 Pentalobe driver to remove ten screws securing the lower case, of the following lengths:

    • Two 9 mm screws

    • Eight 2.6 mm screws

    Pulling the fan cable out was terrifying but you actually just pull on the cable itself. No way to get any leverage at the connector to dislodge it. Did come out easily but like I said, scared me!

    allison - Replica

    Draai de schroefjes voorzichtig los en leg ze op een stabiele plek neer en let erop dat de schroefje een verschillende lengte hebben.

    bwgvanderveer - Replica

    I thought I could replace my 256 Gb SSD with 512? regards

    ola m - Replica

    Do you have good Test Point Voltages? It appears there are silver colored Test points on the I/O Board. I am working on a water spill and trying to troubleshoot if both the I/O board and the Logic need replaced.

    andrew - Replica

    It's probably not necessary but may be a little safer to completely discharge the old battery before replacing it.

    Larry Smith - Replica

    tell a model that was not inferior to the speed of the one in the laptop.

    Thank you

    ilyabuhov - Replica

    Do i need to order tools separately to replace the battery i just ordered?

    anne uhlir - Replica

    im looking for a Logic Board for a

    Apple - MacBook Air® - 13.3" Display - Intel Core i5 - 8GB Memory - 128GB Flash Storage (Latest Model) - Silver Model: MQD32LL/A

    Any help is appreciated.

    Jamie Comstock - Replica

    P5 pentalobe screwdrivers are too big! The correct size for these screws are p4 pentalobe. P5 pentalobe was just able, with difficulty, to turn some of the screws. If the screws were at all tight, my p5 was unable to get them out, and started to strip the screws. A p4 screwdriver fit better and removed the screws with ease. (I was using high quality Wiha brand screwdrivers.)

    William Skinner - Replica

    I had same experience (with MacBook Air 13-inch Mid-2012) … had to get P4, which worked swimmingly

    eric -

    Very simple installation. The screwdriver heads were exactly what we’re needed, one head for the outside case screws, the other for the screws holding the battery in place. The computer started right up. Now to see how the battery holds up, but I have a good feeling about this!

    Dennis Eaton - Replica

    My P5 and the T5 worked perfectly with my early 2015 Air 13”! And it is super fast! Thank you iFixit!

    Pennny Beach - Replica

    The supplied kit and instructions worked perfectly!

    Nikolay Andreev - Replica

    Comments that the P5 pentalobe are too large are absolutely spot-on. There is no way the P5 pentalobe bit I have will work with the MacBook Air without destroying the screws. Hard target search for P4 pentalobe bit in progress…..

    joemoog - Replica

    Bonjour j’aimerais changer mon SSD de 128 Go pour en mettre un de 512 Go. Je ne sais pas ce qu’il faut prendre car il faut qu’il soit compatible avec le macbook air A1466. J’aurais vu un Samsung Evo 970 500 Go mais si je ne me trompe pas, il faut un adaptateur.

    Merci pour votre aide.

    chicco33 - Replica

    oui, vous aurez besoin d’un adaptateur, pour completez le changement.

    Dan -

    The tool kit should include tweezers for re-inserting the battery connector.

    Andre Clement - Replica

    P5 pentalobe worked perfectly for me. Instructions were spot-on. Antenna connections were a bit fiddly to refit but got them in ok.

    michaelquinnell - Replica

    Maybe the problem some are experiencing is that the designations are confusing (blame Apple rather than iFixit). the P2 is also known as PL1. The P5 is also known as PL4. The P6 is also known as PL5. So it is possible to mistake the P6 (PL5) for the P5 (PL4), meaning it (P6-PL5) will be too big, while the P5 (PL4) will be just right. Sort of a 3 Bears explanation, but it is very confusing.

    Thomas Lewis - Replica

    To add to this. In searching for the P5 screwdriver to buy in UK, as far as I can tell, it is also known as

    Pentalobe 1.2(mm)

    also

    P4 = 0.8

    P6 = 1.5

    Just unscrewed the back case of MacBook Air 13” mid 2011, with no problems using Pentalobe 1.2

    nijafe -

    I have not replaced a display on the A1369 but have done many A1466 which is a newer 13” model. They seem really similar and its not clear why one needs to remove the logic board to remove the display. The antenna cables on the A1466 dont have to rest under the logic board but can be tucked in the hinge crevice. Cant this same thing be done with the A1369?

    Sean Love - Replica

    Did mine today - but new battery wasnt charging. Went back in and noticed the battery connector cable was not quite 100% “seated. It was sticking out by less than a millimetre! - you need to give it quite a firm push in to get it seated properly. Otherwise - all ok .

    John Brennand - Replica

    Just installed on a MacBookAir6,2 (13-inch, Early 2014).

    Was very easy.

    New iFixit battery looks great so far:

    Full Charge Capacity (mAh): 4922 -> 7333

    Jonathan Cross - Replica

    can you tell me which size of screwdrivers you’ve used to crack it up, please? I have the same model and size,

    hawk_lpc -

    Screw P5 Pentalobe 1.2

    Mario Verlent - Replica

    Install went flawlessly. Only challange was reattaching blue tooth antennas. Those sockets are so tiny.

    Joel Sebastian - Replica

    Installation was a little challenging at first because the instructions on this site did not perfectly match my model (late 2013 to early 2015).

    Found this video on YouTube which described the procedure perfectly https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lue6lVWh...

    Also the Ifixit kit I received was well put together with everything I needed and more. The calibration went perfectly and I am very pleased. Will buy again!!

    Donald Niamath - Replica

    Gently pulled out connector of old battery, then pressed and held the power switch for 1 minute. Unscrewed and removed the old battery. Pressed and held power switch for 1 minute again. I know from previous work that this helps drain charge from spontaneous recharging as the dielectric recovers. Gently “fine tuned” leads from new battery to connector till connector stuck out at right angle to the edge of battery. Held the battery by the edges and let the connector slide into the socket. Set the battery down and put the screws in all the way. Then checked that the connector was completely seated before tightening the screws. The laptop come on immediately and showed 98% charge and registered normal (checked in “About this Mac”. Very happy to this point. Now for calibration.

    Amir Zaidi - Replica

    Thank you very much for the guilde. My MBA2011 had reborn !

    Billy Wong - Replica

    Allow for electrostatics, otherwise you may cook components on the logicboard /motherboard (like I did with one of these!)

    See great advice: Electrostatic Discharge

    Fletcher Cole - Replica

    … und wenn du eines von diesen wirklich kleinen Schräubchen vermisst: bevor du den Boden aufkehrst oder mit einem starken Magneten absuchst, schau mal am seitlichen (magnetischen) Ladekabelanschluss nach … ?

    ... and if you miss one of these really small screws: before you sweep the floor or search it with a strong magnet, take a look at the (magnetic) charging cable connection on the side … ?

    Blatt - Replica

    Fot All People ha ing trouble finding their SSD

    DONT PRESS CMD +R + POWER

    instead press

    OPTION+CMD+R +POWER

    I just installed Monterrey with WD black sn 770 SSD in m'y macbook air 2015

    Albert - Replica

    IFixit just had me submit "my story" re. fixing my MacBook Air 2013.

    This repair was NOT difficult. The battery is enclosed in a plastic frame. It is NOT glued in like the newer models of Apple laptops. And unlike older laptops, the battery is not totally enclosed in a plastic housing. So once you remove the screws holding the batterie's frame, you can remove the battery.

    Follow the instructions. Read the comments. Also read the comments re. installing a new battery.

    Good luck. - Eric J.

    ECJohansen - Replica

    On the back of the laptop, notice that each screw is angled a little bit inward, aiming toward the middle of the laptop. Keep your screwdriver lined up with the screw (angled a bit outward as seen at 01:23 in the video: https://youtu.be/tToAwO6f-SY&t=83). This will help you get a good bite on the screw to get it out and avoid stripping the head of the screw.


    Use the same angle when putting each screw back in. If the screw is in line with its hole it should not feel like you are fighting to screw it in. If it does, check your angle and back up a little; you should feel the screw fall into line.

    Rich Garella - Replica

    IFixit just had me submit "my story" re. fixing my MacBook Air 2013.

    This repair was NOT difficult. The battery is enclosed in a plastic frame.

    shrhh - Replica

  2. MacBook Air 13" Mid 2011 Upper Case Replacement: passo 2, immagine 1 di 1
    • Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the Air.

    • Remove the lower case and set it aside.

    There is a nub on the inside of the case which is attached to the battery. When you try to pull it open, it appears to be attached to the plastic casing of the battery, which sometimes splits. I gently unhooked the nub from the battery before removing the case fully. This seems to happen if the battery has suffered some drop damage (plastic parts broken around screws and parts of plastic frame split). Just an FYI in case your lower case doesn't pull away easily.

    Jeannie Crowley - Replica

    To add - the slim 1cm tab “nub” is on the centre of the back cover & fits into a hole in the battery frame. I ran my fingers around the whole of the cover to eventually here it click out.

    nijafe -

    When closing this back up make sure that the antenna cable is tucked away neatly

    Gabriel - Replica

    So this is a legit back cover for MacBook Air?

    ASHANTI SMITH - Replica

    What about disconnecting the battery?

    Luke - Replica

    I bought the part and tools from iFixit and followed the directions. The mechanical part went smoothly - maybe 10 minutes to disassemble/replace/reassemble.

    Getting Catalina (the current MacOS) to install was not working until I used Cmd-Opt-R (as noted in the OWC paper sheet that came in the box) which brought up the proper installer - I believe from a pre-prepared bootable SD card but it’s hard to say. From there the install succeeded taking ~1.5 hours.

    Beware that (a) the install requires a working internet connection for verification and updates, and (b) the system must have been running at least macOs 10.13 (High Sierra) before the install in order to have an EFI BIOS that recognizes the SSD.

    Lance Berc - Replica

    As noted by others, be a bit careful removing the lower case. There is an oblong black plastic locator very near the center of the lower case. Unless you gently pry the bottom cover pretty much straight up, you will break the ends off of the locater.

    BobY - Replica

    Thanks for the detailed photos. When repairing equipment, I don’t really like to disassemble plastic parts, they can be damaged, but your screenshots help a lot. For my studies, I am writing an essay comparing the reliability of laptops from various manufacturers and the complexity of their repair, maybe it will be useful for someone to check the essay for plagiarism here essay checker, when comparing different manufacturers, I understood why people love Apple so much. The minimum number of failures. Of course, repairing it in an official service is not cheap, but with the help of such detailed instructions, you can do it yourself and save a lot.

    Nexus - Replica

    The screwdriver bit to use on these case screws is not named, but I found that my "CR-V 1.2" did the job nicely.

    The driver for the screws inside the case are named, as "T5".

    Jim Henderson - Replica

  3. MacBook Air 13" Mid 2011 Upper Case Replacement, Battery Connector: passo 3, immagine 1 di 2 MacBook Air 13" Mid 2011 Upper Case Replacement, Battery Connector: passo 3, immagine 2 di 2
    • As a precaution against accidental discharge or shock, disconnect the battery connector from the logic board.

    • Grab the clear plastic pull tab attached to the battery connector and pull it toward the front edge of the Air to disconnect the battery from the logic board.

    • Be sure to pull the connector horizontally toward the battery, and not straight up from the Air, or you may damage the socket on the logic board.

    The clear plastic tab is missing on mine. Whoever worked on my laptop before me seems to have ripped it off. Now what?

    mjmorawski - Replica

    My plastic tab pulled off the connector. I worked the connection apart using two spurgers, slowly backing it out side to side.

    Ric Thistlethwaite - Replica

    I don’t see my socket on logic board, how can I fix it

    QUYNH PHAM - Replica

  4. MacBook Air 13" Mid 2011 Upper Case Replacement, I/O Board Cable: passo 4, immagine 1 di 1
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the I/O board cable connector upward out of its socket on the I/O board.

    Be really careful when reconnecting the I/O board cable connector. The deep connector has a tendency to bend the pins with very little force applied. If this is the case, check to see if the gold pins are bent down, you may only see one row of gold pins vertically, or none.

    They can be lifted with a flat head screwdriver bit. Gently slide the bit under the pins, this may need a small amount of pressure depending on how far they are bent down. Lever the pins back to the vertical position.

    I found attempting to insert this connector was easier while holding the MacBook on a slight angle to see down the pins as I aligned the connector.

    Another way to tell if the I/O connector cable is in place correctly is to run an Apple Hardware Test. Hold down the letter D while booting the mac and follow the prompts. If no issues found, you're all good.

    A common error for a misconnected I/O Connector is 4SNS/1/C0000008:TS0P--124. This means the system cannot read the palm temperature sensor. Fix the cable and you're good

    Ben - Replica

    Hi, Can the 13” Logicboard of 2012/2013/2014 or 2015 be compatible in the 2011 model?.

    verma1986 - Replica

    This is ridiculous.

    From this point, skip ahead to step 18. There is no need to perform steps five through 17.

    AnnoniMoose - Replica

    I am glad I saw your comment. This saved me a lot of time and allowed me to miss many points of failure. thanks.

    norsk4sure -

  5. MacBook Air 13" Mid 2011 Upper Case Replacement: passo 5, immagine 1 di 1
    • Carefully peel the I/O board cable from the top of the fan.

  6. MacBook Air 13" Mid 2011 Upper Case Replacement: passo 6, immagine 1 di 2 MacBook Air 13" Mid 2011 Upper Case Replacement: passo 6, immagine 2 di 2
    • The following connector has an especially deep socket. Use care when disconnecting it.

    • While gently pulling the I/O board cable upward near its connection to the logic board, use the tip of a spudger to pry upward on alternating sides of the connector to help "walk" it out of its socket.

    • Remove the I/O board cable.

    This step can be skipped, not required for removing the fan.

    yurkennis - Replica

    Agreed, there is no need to remove this cable.

    David Robillard - Replica

  7. MacBook Air 13" Mid 2011 Upper Case Replacement, Fan: passo 7, immagine 1 di 1
    • Use the tip of a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the fan cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    It is not necessary to remove the fan cable.

    ezequielaceto - Replica

    It's certainly necessary to remove the fan cable, as you won't be able to remove the fan in Step 10 if you don't!

    Goth70 Fuzed - Replica

    If you break the ZIF socket, it could be a bad day.... It happened to me. Not one to throw in the towel, I fashioned a hold-down with a length of paperclip held in place by the nearby screw. So far, it is working like a charm. Hopefully, it continues to work and this helps some other poor soul.

    Lester Newsom - Replica

    I also haven't removed the fan cable. No need for this step IMHO. Just let the fan on the side instead of completely remove it.

    David Robillard - Replica

    Trouble putting the cable back in the ZIF socket?

    Get some electrical tape and cut it down the the width of the ribbon cable fold over one end to create a pull tab. Now place the tape onto the ribbon to give yourself something to pull either in or out as needed. Then you can peel off the tape.

    Don't forget the unlatch the connector first!

    Source: Re-connecting fan ribbon cable

    Adam Banko - Replica

    The hardest part is to put the fan cable back in the ZIF socket.

    (Why do people say you don’t have to unplug the cable? that makes no sense)

    Digital Blended - Replica

    after putting the cable back in the fan is very loud, can someone help?

    Ramon majem - Replica

    Be very careful when locking the ZIF connector during reassembling. This was my first time seeing a ZIF connector, the retaining flap plastic bounced when I was reassembling the I/O board ( I didn’t pushed so hard though) and a struggled nearly 1 hour to reassemble it. Same connector, be careful. It was a nightmare, thank god it didn’t broke!

    Berkin Birol - Replica

    Quick note, when u install the new fan, i inserted the ribbon cable back in the zif socket first with a pair of tweezers then screw the fan back in.

    robdroby - Replica

    I see comments suggesting not to remove the ribbon cable. This would work. Simply flip the fan like the page of a book, from right to left, thereby getting it out of the way while you remove the i/o board. Flip it from left to right when you reinstall. This approach would save some frustration, as it is a challenge to reinsert that tiny ribbon into position.

    If you do remove the ribbon, reinsert it before repositioning the fan. That will give you more play as to fiddle with the ribbon.

    Mark - Replica

  8. MacBook Air 13" Mid 2011 Upper Case Replacement: passo 8, immagine 1 di 1
    • Peel the rubber gasket off the adhesive on the top of the fan.

    Note how the “ears” of the gasket are routed

    davecortesi - Replica

    Where can I purchase a replacement gasket? It’s missing after the repair place opened my computer

    Erin Kaspar-Frett - Replica

    Should I put some adhesive back when reasembling?

    Marco - Replica

  9. MacBook Air 13" Mid 2011 Upper Case Replacement: passo 9, immagine 1 di 1
    • Remove the following three screws securing the fan to the upper case:

    • One 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 2.7 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw with a short head

    When reinstalling, start all three screws before tightening down. There’s some play in these holes, and you will have trouble lining them up if you tighten one down first.

    Curtis Kline - Replica

    I just replaced the the i/o board and it went fine, but I think I broke the screw holder on the top left side of the fan, and now can get the screw out - the computer still runs - i was wonder can I get a way with that one screw not holding it down?

    ilarkin1 - Replica

    Same here. The screw socket was broken for the 2.7 mm T5 Torx screw. Is there a way to re-solder the socket? Or support the fan. It’s making a horrible noise now :(

    Jason - Replica

  10. MacBook Air 13" Mid 2011 Upper Case Replacement: passo 10, immagine 1 di 1
    • Lift the fan out of the upper case and carefully pull the fan ribbon cable out of its socket as you remove it from the Air.

    Would like more detail about removing the fan cable. Looks like it just pulls out to the right. I thought I ripped it off.

    kennyavis81 - Replica

    On re-installation of fan cable cable no tool required - just wiggle it in from from side/above (side force aided by bend of cable)

    Super easy - my first computer repair..hope all is well

    paul deacon - Replica

    The ribbon connector held in the socket by a tiny square on top, which enters a square hole in the top of the socket. An xacto blade used to pry the top of the connector gently up will help release the connector.

    peteragries - Replica

    This helped me no end, I agree with the people above that it's worth explaining how the ribbon cable is held in and that

    it's simple to remove and reinstall. Thank you for a brilliant guide.

    leesparey - Replica

    Year, from the top, the ribbon appears to be just the plastic strip. Copper connectors are on the bottom but at first glance it looks like I pulled the connector off the ribbon. Mine pulled straight out away from the connector, no upward angle needed or desired.

    Allen - Replica

    Question: Is the ribbon connector a part of the fan, so that the new fan has its own ribbon connector? Apologies if this sounds trivial, but I could not tell from the wording/picture.

    jerry bennett - Replica

    So I did the replacement according to this guide, with a replacement fan purchased from iFixit, and the fan would not spin even under heavy load! I took out the fan, and noticed that there was quite a lot of resistance when I spun the blades manually. It turns out, the fan was slightly squashed flat near the vent so that the resulting friction prevented the blades from spinning free. I un-squashed the fan, re-installed it, and the fan is spinning! The moral of the story is to make sure the blades can spin free when installing a new fan.

    Hiroshi - Replica

    On reassembly, I found it hard to reinsert this ribbon cable, so did step 11 again. I disconnected the I/O board, connected the fan and snapped the retainer down on the ribbon cable, then undid step 11 (ie. I connected the I/O board again). As others have said, a brilliant step-by-step guide, and slloeing comments is a great idea too.

    Jim Henderson - Replica

    nice! Congrats!

    Luis -

  11. MacBook Air 13" Mid 2011 Upper Case Replacement, I/O Board: passo 11, immagine 1 di 1
    • Disconnect the I/O board by pulling the power cable away from its socket on the logic board.

    • Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board toward the right edge of the Air.

  12. MacBook Air 13" Mid 2011 Upper Case Replacement: passo 12, immagine 1 di 1
    • Pull the camera cable parallel to the face of the I/O board toward the corner of the Air to disconnect it from its socket, using the tip of a spudger to help push the connector out of its socket.

    • Do not lift upward on this cable as you disconnect it, as its socket may break off the logic board.

    Mine was very reluctant... couldn't get any purchase with a spudger, had to use flat tweezers to get enough grip on the cable. Exerted slowly increasing pull, but when it came out, it broke loose suddenly.

    Allen - Replica

    My Macbook Air (2013) didn't have this cable.

    Phillip Remaker - Replica

    Mine too, only a slot where a cable was passing,

    Gianni Borghesan -

  13. MacBook Air 13" Mid 2011 Upper Case Replacement: passo 13, immagine 1 di 2 MacBook Air 13" Mid 2011 Upper Case Replacement: passo 13, immagine 2 di 2
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker cable connector up and out of its socket on the I/O board.

    • Pry up from beneath the wires.

    • De-route the left speaker cable from its retainer on the I/O board.

    On re-assembly, I haven't gotten the speaker or microphone to work. Must have broken the connection, but it looks fine. Ran the hardware diagnostic (holding down "D" at start up) and got the following error code - 4MOT/4/40000002:Exhaust-0

    Anyone know what this means.

    Daniel Thomas - Replica

    I recommend for the two speakers & mic connectors place thumb nail on top while prying up so you can gauge the upwards pressure better.

    also generally before trying anything scary double click the picture & zoom in so you can see better what you’re dealing with. Or even get your phone magnifier to zoom in on to your tricky parts.

    nijafe - Replica

  14. MacBook Air 13" Mid 2011 Upper Case Replacement: passo 14, immagine 1 di 1
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the microphone cable connector up and out of its socket on the I/O board.

    • Pry up from beneath the wires.

    Be very careful: it is quite easy to accidentally pry the whole cable connector from the I/O board.

    Dallas Guy - Replica

    What do you do if this happens? Buy a whole new I/O board?

    adamwitz -

    I agree, I found this to be the only critical step of the entire disassembly procedure: I snapped the microphone connector socket off the board despite applying a relatively gentle pull on the cables. Fortunately I did this on a dead MBair from which I wanted to get the display, but now I'm afraid of doing the same damage while installing the display on the target MBair!

    Any tricks/tips would be most welcome.

    Lorenzo

    Lorenzo Cangiano - Replica

    Following up on my previous post I'd like to share how I eventually circumvented the risk of snapping the microphone connector socket on the I/O board. Instead of attempting to disconnect the mic (as suggested in this guide, step 14), I did the following: a. remove the battery, b. detach the right speaker, c. detach the microphone from the outer case (for steps b and c I followed the iFixit guide on how to replace a MacbookAir microphone). The advantage is that the microphone can now remain safely connected to the I/O board. Of course when reassembling the mac one has to reverse these extra steps (the microphone can be easily reattached to the case as it has a sticky side). I would strongly advise iFixit to revise this guide accordingly!

    Lorenzo Cangiano -

    I don't think this step is necessary if you aren't seeking to fully remove the I/O board - if you are seeking only to remove the heatsink, you can skip this step, leave this delicate cable attached, then in the next couple steps you'll end up "flipping" the board out of the way, while leaving this cable connected.

    coopermarcus - Replica

    Maybe I just lucked out but removing the mic cable was about the same effort as the left speaker cable. I wasn't ready to try Lorenzo's workaround above without a photo guide, so took my chances. Your mileage may vary.

    Allen - Replica

    I find it very helpful that you give directions on where to pry, and how to address each connection. I’m always hesitant for fear of snapping something off, so I appreciate this detail. Thanks.

    Adam Goldstein - Replica

    I recommend for the two speakers & mic connectors place thumb nail on top while prying up so you can gauge the upwards pressure better.

    nijafe - Replica

  15. MacBook Air 13" Mid 2011 Upper Case Replacement: passo 15, immagine 1 di 1
    • Remove the single 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw securing the I/O board to the upper case.

    The screw was stripped and I couldn’t remove it, but it didn’t matter, I could complete removal of the logic board without removing the I/O board. I think the steps involved with disconnecting the I/O board are redundant.

    Nigel Anderson - Replica

    I have done this repair without the steps laid out above. The I/O board does not need to come out. Just be careful when de-routing the wires attached to the display and you should be fine. I was able to skip steps 11-21 and go straight to step 22 without issue.

    Kevin Ginther - Replica

  16. MacBook Air 13" Mid 2011 Upper Case Replacement: passo 16, immagine 1 di 1
    • Carefully lift the I/O board from its edge nearest the logic board and remove it from the upper case.

    When following these instructions in reverse, and reinstalling the I/O board, be sure to carefully check and adjust the alignment of the ports on the board with the holes in the case - it is especially obvious if the headphone port is mis-aligned with the case.

    coopermarcus - Replica

    Also on reassembly, make sure the speaker and microphone cables are visible before securing the i/o board!

    davecortesi - Replica

  17. MacBook Air 13" Mid 2011 Upper Case Replacement, Battery: passo 17, immagine 1 di 1
    • Remove the following five screws securing the battery to the upper case:

    • Three 6.3 mm T5 Torx screws

    • Two 2.4 mm T5 Torx screws

    Be careful when screwing in again not to overtighten, the plastic of the battery breaks easily with tightening.

    Mike Dacre - Replica

  18. MacBook Air 13" Mid 2011 Upper Case Replacement: passo 18, immagine 1 di 1
    • When handling the battery, avoid squeezing or touching the four exposed lithium polymer cells.

    • Lift the battery from its edge nearest the logic board and remove it from the upper case.

  19. MacBook Air 13" Mid 2011 Upper Case Replacement, Logic Board: passo 19, immagine 1 di 2 MacBook Air 13" Mid 2011 Upper Case Replacement, Logic Board: passo 19, immagine 2 di 2
    • Use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the trackpad ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Pull the trackpad ribbon cable straight out of its socket toward the front edge of the Air.

    Disaster strikes. I pulled away the socket itself (just like it says not to). Is there any possibility to re-connect it, or did I just ruin the whole logic board?

    Nigel Anderson - Replica

    I lost the retaining flap so I don’t know if it can stay in place without the retaining flap

    SK Alias - Replica

  20. MacBook Air 13" Mid 2011 Upper Case Replacement: passo 20, immagine 1 di 2 MacBook Air 13" Mid 2011 Upper Case Replacement: passo 20, immagine 2 di 2
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard backlight ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Use your spudger to help pull the cable out of its socket.

  21. MacBook Air 13" Mid 2011 Upper Case Replacement: passo 21, immagine 1 di 1
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the right speaker cable connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Pry up from beneath the cables.

    To snap back in, place speaker cable connector directly on top of socket and press down with your finger or tool.

    anonymous 6745 - Replica

    This has to be done very gently. I only applied a mild lift and the socket broke off from the board. I had to say good-bye to the right speaker. :-(

    Kuro Kurosaka - Replica

    Read my comment about using tweezers for the left speaker cable connector. But for some reason, the right connector was a little more tight and took more effort than the left speaker cable connector.

    Mark Kilpatrick - Replica

  22. MacBook Air 13" Mid 2011 Upper Case Replacement: passo 22, immagine 1 di 3 MacBook Air 13" Mid 2011 Upper Case Replacement: passo 22, immagine 2 di 3 MacBook Air 13" Mid 2011 Upper Case Replacement: passo 22, immagine 3 di 3
    • Gently push the tip of a spudger under the black plastic flap stuck to the display data cable lock to make the lock pop upward and away from the socket.

    • While holding the lock away from the socket, use the tip of a spudger and your fingers to gently remove the display data cable from its socket.

    • Do not pull upward on the display data cable as you disconnect it, as its socket may break off the logic board.

    Regarding the second photo on step 22, I believe the placement of the spudger is incorrect. If the second photo's purpose is to demonstrate the placement of the spudger described in the second bullet--"...use the tip of a spudger and your fingers to gently remove the display data cable..."-- then such placement could lead to damaging the connector. View this annotated screenshot to see what I'm trying to convey: https://www.evernote.com/shard/s4/sh/1f5....

    Christopher Fernandes - Replica

    I agree, I used tweezers to pull it gently and it worked beautifully

    Gian Carlo -

    Agree. Use tweezers.

    sdcsoup -

    You should place the tip of the spudger on top of the connector and push out. At first I had the tip of the spudger on the bottom and tried to push up and that was incorrect.

    Mark Kilpatrick - Replica

  23. MacBook Air 13" Mid 2011 Upper Case Replacement: passo 23, immagine 1 di 2 MacBook Air 13" Mid 2011 Upper Case Replacement: passo 23, immagine 2 di 2
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry both antenna cable connectors up and off their sockets on the AirPort/Bluetooth card.

    When reconnecting, how will I know which cable connects to the connectors?

    Ringo CoC - Replica

    Fits oneway only. See length of the cable connectors

    yuroen - Replica

    I put a small piece of red tape on the right wire to identify.

    kcunningham - Replica

  24. MacBook Air 13" Mid 2011 Upper Case Replacement: passo 24, immagine 1 di 1
    • Gently de-route the antenna cables from the slot cut into the logic board.

  25. MacBook Air 13" Mid 2011 Upper Case Replacement: passo 25, immagine 1 di 1
    • Remove the single 2.85 mm T5 Torx screw securing the SSD to the logic board.

  26. MacBook Air 13" Mid 2011 Upper Case Replacement: passo 26, immagine 1 di 2 MacBook Air 13" Mid 2011 Upper Case Replacement: passo 26, immagine 2 di 2
    • To avoid damaging its socket, do not lift the end of the SSD excessively.

    • Pull the drive straight out of its socket and remove it from the logic board.

    • When reinstalling the SSD, be sure it is properly seated before reinstalling its retaining screw.

    Warning: there may be adhesive keeping the SSD in place. i got 1 with, and 1 without, both slightly different models (but still the same model name, A1466 )

    divinity76 - Replica

  27. MacBook Air 13" Mid 2011 Upper Case Replacement: passo 27, immagine 1 di 1
    • Remove the six 6.3 mm T5 Torx screws securing the logic board to the upper case.

    Please Please Please remember to re-attach your antenna cables if you are replacing the upper case with a new or refurbished one. They have a way of slipping under the logic board.

    Timothy Button - Replica

    These screws are easily stripped. If you accidentally push too hard, you will strip the screw when re-attaching. If that happens, get a pair of needle nose pliers and gently work the screw out taking care not to damage the board.

    Timothy Button - Replica

    My screws were 4.xx mm

    Gabe - Replica

    These screws are actually 3.6 mm T5 Torx. Please fix :)

    Doc Halstater - Replica

    I’ll second this observation.

    sjosefw -

    When putting the logic board back, make sure the speaker wire isn't trapped under it

    Shiv Sikand - Replica

    I have not replaced a display on the A1369 but have done many A1466 which is a newer 13” model. They seem really similar and its not clear why one needs to remove the logic board to remove the display. The antenna cables on the A1466 dont have to rest under the logic board but can be tucked in the hinge crevice. Cant this same thing be done with the A1369?

    Sean Love - Replica

  28. MacBook Air 13" Mid 2011 Upper Case Replacement: passo 28, immagine 1 di 1
    • Remove the inner two 4.9 mm T8 Torx screws securing the antenna cable retainer and left clutch hinge to the upper case.

    These are T9-sized torx screws, not T8.

    Hanii Puppy - Replica

    This is good to know. I think I need to order a screwdriver set - all I have is the pentalobe and one other that came with my SSD replacement kit.

    forestsprite -

    I also had T9 screws on my device.

    I found it helpful to loosen the 3rd screw of the hinge already a TINY bit. The screws are quite tight so it´s easier to loosen them while the case is lying flat on the surface. This procedure comes in handy in Step 34 where you have to hold the case perpendicular with one hand, while unscrewing this screw with the other hand.

    wolfgang07 - Replica

    Mine were T8 screws, but I was able to use a T9 torx with pressure and that worked.

    kcunningham - Replica

    fyi, mine were T8

    jmull - Replica

    My hinge screws were T9, and fit very snugly. If your screwdrivers are not a precision set, such that the T9 is too tight, you can use T8, but it won’t be good for the screw heads.

    Josh - Replica

    Mine were T8 and my T8 bit worked fine.

    Mark Kilpatrick - Replica

  29. MacBook Air 13" Mid 2011 Upper Case Replacement: passo 29, immagine 1 di 1
    • Push the antenna cable retainer away slightly and remove the 3 mm T5 Torx screw securing the end of the heat sink to the upper case.

    "remove the 3 mm T5 Torx screw securing the end of the heat sink to the upper case" -- an optional step when detaching components from upper case for cleaning, eg after a liquid spilled to keyboard.

    yurkennis - Replica

    When I was re-assembling, the screw hole of the heat sink didn’t align. I applied a mild force then the edge of the heat sink broke off from the rest, losing the contact to the case. I am hoping the Air would work for a while during the test run (if it ever works) but I would buy a replacement heat sink for regular use.

    Kuro Kurosaka - Replica

  30. MacBook Air 13" Mid 2011 Upper Case Replacement: passo 30, immagine 1 di 1
    • Carefully remove the logic board assembly from the upper case, minding any cables that may get caught.

    • Hold the antenna cables out of the way as you lift the heat sink end of the logic board out of the upper case.

    On reassembly, as you seat the board in place, make sure the keyboard backlight cable is not trapped under it.

    davecortesi - Replica

    Removal of logic board and all the steps leading up to it I found unnecessary. They may be good for some but I really didn't need to dismantle the laptop as much as this guide shows to get the display off. Just my opinion, of course.

    Kevin Ginther - Replica

  31. MacBook Air 13" Mid 2011 Upper Case Replacement, Display Assembly: passo 31, immagine 1 di 1
    • Gently de-route the antenna cables out of the channel cut into the upper case.

  32. MacBook Air 13" Mid 2011 Upper Case Replacement: passo 32, immagine 1 di 1
    • Remove the inner two 4.9 mm T8 Torx screws securing the right display hinge to the upper case.

    • We intentionally have you leave the third screw in to aid in future steps.

    Again, these are T9 screws, not T8.

    Hanii Puppy - Replica

    Dear all,

    on my Air I dropped water and now the display looks without backlight... I can type with no issue, as well the backlight of the keyboard is working fine, audio too but the display doesn't show the light also if boosted at top. What's happened?

    Thanks,

    sev7en - Replica

    I also had T9 screws on my device.

    Like in Step28 I found it helpful to loosen the 3rd screw of the hinge already a TINY bit. Comes in handy in Step 33 where you have to hold the case perpendicular with one hand, while unscrewing this screw with the other hand.

    wolfgang07 - Replica

    Does anyone know if it will work without the display assembly all together? I just want to remove it and plug into an external monitor.

    Andrew White - Replica

    I recommend to loosen outward screws at this step, so it is easier to completely unscrew them on the next step.

    yurkennis - Replica

    My tip is to open the case so the screen is 90º to the base and then lay the MBA down with the keyboard on the work surface with the screen hanging down the front of your work bench. This makes it much easier to work with and reassembly is much easier.

    If you follow this tip, go ahead and take all the remaining four hinge screws out now. You can now easily lift off the lid and set it aside. Now skip to step 36.

    Reassembly Hint: Use this method to get all 4 screws started and before you do the final tighten, back them off ¼ turn, close up the clamshell and lay it on your work bench screen side down Now make sure the top does not overhang the bottom and are aligned by running your fingers around the perimeter. When you are happy with the alignment, tighten all four screws.

    Hope that helps.

    Josh - Replica

    I agree with Josh : makes it very easy to remove~replace the screen lid using one hand to stop it falling to the floor and the other to remove the last 2 screws and then to replace those 2 screws when re-assembling.

    Andrew Gordon - Replica

  33. MacBook Air 13" Mid 2011 Upper Case Replacement: passo 33, immagine 1 di 1
    • Open the display until it is perpendicular to the upper case and place it on a table as shown.

    • While holding the Air steady, remove the remaining 4.9 mm T8 Torx screw from the lower display bracket.

    During reassembly, once the two screws are in the left and right hinges, close the laptop and flip it over so that the display is down on the table. Run your fingers along the edge of the laptop where the display meets the lower assembly. If it is not flush, loosen the two screws in the hinges slightly and adjust, then retighten.

    Ethan Cross - Replica

  34. MacBook Air 13" Mid 2011 Upper Case Replacement: passo 34, immagine 1 di 1
    • Before removing the last display screw, be sure to hold the display and upper case steady with your other hand. Failure to do so may allow the components to fall onto the table, causing potentially expensive damage.

    • Remove the last 4.9 mm T8 Torx screw securing the display to the upper case.

  35. MacBook Air 13" Mid 2011 Upper Case Replacement: passo 35, immagine 1 di 1
    • Push the upper case slightly toward the display assembly, then rotate it away from the front of the display assembly.

    • Once the two display hinges have cleared the upper case, remove the display and set it aside.

    Reassembly Hint: My tip is to lay bottom case with the keyboard on the work surface with the rear edge hanging over the front of your work bench. Approach with the screen side of the lid facing the workbench and 90º to it. Lower the screen hinges into place. This makes it much easier to work with and reassemble.

    *

    Use this method to get all 4 screws started and before you do the final tighten, back them off ¼ turn, close up the clamshell and lay it on your work bench screen side down Now make sure the top does not overhang the bottom and are aligned by running your fingers around the perimeter. When you are happy with the alignment, tighten all four screws.

    Hope that helps.

    Josh - Replica

    I agree with Josh : makes it very easy to remove~replace the screen lid using one hand to stop it falling to the floor and the other to remove the last 2 screws or to replace those 2 screws

    Andrew Gordon - Replica

  36. MacBook Air 13" Mid 2011 Upper Case Replacement, Upper Case: passo 36, immagine 1 di 3 MacBook Air 13" Mid 2011 Upper Case Replacement, Upper Case: passo 36, immagine 2 di 3 MacBook Air 13" Mid 2011 Upper Case Replacement, Upper Case: passo 36, immagine 3 di 3
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the right speaker off the adhesive securing it to the upper case.

    • Remove the right speaker from the upper case.

  37. MacBook Air 13" Mid 2011 Upper Case Replacement: passo 37, immagine 1 di 3 MacBook Air 13" Mid 2011 Upper Case Replacement: passo 37, immagine 2 di 3 MacBook Air 13" Mid 2011 Upper Case Replacement: passo 37, immagine 3 di 3
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker off the adhesive securing it to the upper case.

    • Remove the left speaker from the upper case.

  38. MacBook Air 13" Mid 2011 Upper Case Replacement: passo 38, immagine 1 di 2 MacBook Air 13" Mid 2011 Upper Case Replacement: passo 38, immagine 2 di 2
    • Use the tip of a spudger to pry the microphone away from the left side of the upper case.

    • Remove the microphone from the upper case.

    • Upper case remains.

    My microphone appears slightly different, featuring a ribbon cable which is difficult to re-route when re-assembling.

    Under no circumstances try to pull the microphone out using any pulling motion on the cable, as the microphone assembly will come apart in two pieces (as mine did), and will most likely not function on re-assembly (as mine doesn't).

    Goth70 Fuzed - Replica

    Note: No need to do this for keyboard replacement.

    anonymous 6745 - Replica

    Note 2: My replacement case came with the microphone installed, so check your case. You might not need to do this step.

    Josh - Replica

  39. MacBook Air 13" Mid 2011 Upper Case Replacement, Upper Case: passo 39, immagine 1 di 2 MacBook Air 13" Mid 2011 Upper Case Replacement, Upper Case: passo 39, immagine 2 di 2
    • Use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the trackpad ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Pull the trackpad ribbon cable straight out of its socket toward the rear edge of the Air.

  40. MacBook Air 13" Mid 2011 Upper Case Replacement: passo 40, immagine 1 di 3 MacBook Air 13" Mid 2011 Upper Case Replacement: passo 40, immagine 2 di 3 MacBook Air 13" Mid 2011 Upper Case Replacement: passo 40, immagine 3 di 3
    • While carefully lifting the keyboard ribbon cable with one hand, use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Pull the keyboard ribbon cable straight out of its socket toward the front edge of the Air.

    I was hoping there would be a way to take the keyboard apart after step 41. I have a shorted power switch I was hoping to try and clean. $250 to replace the upper case on a Mac that's worth $550 if working and $250 as parts doesn't make sense. Super fun to take this apart though!

    allison - Replica

    i need just to try to clean the keyboard cable socket, i need to follow all 40 steps or i can jump something?

    dav - Replica

  41. MacBook Air 13" Mid 2011 Upper Case Replacement: passo 41, immagine 1 di 1
    • Remove the following seven screws:

    • Six 1.6 mm Phillips screws securing the trackpad to the upper case.

    • One 1.4 mm T5 Torx set screw from its tapped hole near the front edge of the upper case.

    • During reassembly, do not over-tighten the set screw, as the button will cease to click at a certain point. Adjust the set screw until the movable side of the trackpad has minimal play.

    I found that the solo T5 for step 41 can be stripped easily. I used a T6 bit making sure to press down firmly before unscrewing.

    Christopher Fernandes - Replica

    I also used a T6 at this step.

    lyllo_rj -

    I think these are phillips #000. I tried a cheap eye-glass repair phillips on these with little luck. I ended having to buy a $26 craftsman set to get a #000 phillips, but what a difference it made.

    elijahbuck - Replica

    This is the info I needed! Thanks.

    forestsprite -

    Note: No need to do this for keyboard replacement.

    anonymous 6745 - Replica

    In replacing the palmrest / top case with keyboard & speakers already attached, undoing these 6 screws off the trackpad were by far the most difficult step. Mine were sooo tight in.

    Tips to avoid stripping the heads & not being able to get them out without drilling them out :-

    1 use the magnifier on your phone in one hand while gently testing the size & capability of your screw driver. I ended up using one I had for an iPhone 4s -don’t no size but it looked small enough to be 00 or 000.

    2 while still using magnifier go gently but firmly while looking for it slipping out then release & apply pressure on the turn & repeat this until it starts to turn.

    3 if really tight like mine I did the old mechanics trick of using a “Manchester Spanner” (hammer) to dislodge rusty bolts/screws. While the tip of driver is in the cross correctly (use a magnifier) tap the top of driver with something as form as you dare - I used an egg cup as that was to hand!. My screen was not attached at this point!

    4 still use magnifier when replacing screws

    nijafe - Replica

  42. MacBook Air 13" Mid 2011 Upper Case Replacement: passo 42, immagine 1 di 1
    • Carefully lift the edge of the trackpad closest to the keyboard from its recess in the upper case by lifting it away from the brackets attached to the upper case.

    • Remove the trackpad from the upper case.

    • The upper case remains.

Conclusione

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Altre 81 persone hanno completato questa guida.

David Hodson

Membro da: 04/13/10

150.352 Reputazione

127 Guide realizzate

16 Commenti

question for anyone...just did step 14, and accidentally pried the whole microphone cable box out of the board. Any way to put that back in or did i just lose microphone capability?

adamwitz - Replica

You can resolder it back on or carefully use a hot-air rework station and Kapton tape to protect the surrounding area.

applerepairshop -

This guide is truly SPOT-on!!

I went to my local Fry's Electronics and purchased a Pro's Kit branded "Consumer Electronic Equipment Repair Kit" that had all the necessary bits and tools needed for US$35.

No need to spend $250 for a new upper case, I figured: what did I have to loose?

I found a brand new keyboard $45.95 (included priority shipping) from MCCComputers.com

Steps: Remove keyboard:: CAREFULLY, remove all #000 Philips head screws around the outside edge of the keyboard on the logic board side of top case. Then, i started at one end, four keys at a time and started rocking around the four corners and pressing firmly in sections (from the side where you usually type on the keys, inward) until the rivets started popping out. MAKE SURE YOU ARE DOING THIS IN AN ENVIRONMENT THAT IS CLEAN and SMOOTH SURFACES. They go everywhere!

Reassembly:use 3M #77 adhesive spray on the aluminum casing to reattach and make up for lost rivets. Snap in rivets with flat end of T-15 bit and screw-in edge screws.

TuckerLM - Replica

Step 9

On reassembly with a new upper case I spent a long time trying to replace the red-circled screw to hold the fan. After a while I figured out that the new case I purchased from IFIXIT had a small screw already inserted in the socket. Once I removed this extra part everything went smoothly.

wlnem - Replica

THAT’S why I ended up with an extra screw!

I agree, this guide is great. Was able to skip the last few steps, as my replacement upper case was already assembled.

Kurt Sprangers -

Can i change a Uppercase (2012, Mainboard defect, Keyboard WITH Backlight, monitor OK) with the uppercase of my MB Air 2011 (NO Backlight, Monitor with Scratches)

Wanna have Backlite Keys. ;-)

Schalt Klaue - Replica

nobody ever testing it?

Schalt Klaue - Replica

Most excellent directions, worked for me. Thank you.

Ken Peterson - Replica

I am replacing the backlight keyboard on a mid-2011 Air and inadvertainly knocked off the resistor(?) that is immediately adjacent to the backlight cable socket on the logic board. Is this critical; is there a fix; or do I need to get another logic board?

Thanks, Ken

Ken Cline - Replica

Just finished… very good guide… takes longer than an hour, for first time anyway. You have to be careful and pay attention. Also, the backlit keyboard costs $17 and new battery $65 both on amazon. Everything works great, like new… however, the keyboard back light is much dimmer and has unevenly lit keys all over the keyboard… wondering if that’s related to the cheap keyboard or something else… any thoughts let us know, thanks!

Gabriel Solnica - Replica

This guide worked great. If you just want to replace the keyboard, skip steps 41 & 42 and have a look at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gLbasVD6...

Uwe Schmock - Replica

I accidentally caused a small Bent/cut and scratched at the keyboard ribbon cable edge at the trackpad while trying to remove the retainers. So now some keys are not responding. Is there any way to strip/so something to that ribbon cable to get good connection or do i need to replace the whole keyboard.

Tom Mathew - Replica

The clear instructions with pictures were spot on. Also, the comments posted by others under each instruction were very helpful. Author David Hodson did a great job and I would recommend his instructions to anyone not afraid to take on this kind of technical repair. This format for following along is miles above trying to watch Utube videos while trying to do intricate, detailed work. No comparison. Great job David!

lhillmike - Replica

Q to O line of keyboard keys intermittently functional & no joy following other suggested steps on iFixit or else where so last resort to resolve was get a new Uppercase with keyboard keyboard/backlight/speakers/mic still attached - grabbed a good deal on eBay for £25.

Looks a scary job but with patience & reading comments it’s all sorted & working now.

Watch out for the Philips screws on the trackpad - see comments on that stage.

Thanks

nijafe - Replica

Hello i was cleaning the trackpad of my macbook air and accidently i bust a little piece of the connector of the ribbon cable. Now my trackpad is ok but my keyboard does not work at all. What should i change now the cable or the trackpad the cable has also a fold in the little end corner. I really appreciate if some one can tell me what to buy or just order both at the same time?

Edd - Replica

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