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MacBook Air 11" Mid 2013 I/O Board Replacement

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  1. MacBook Air 11" Mid 2013 I/O Board Replacement, Lower Case: passo 1, immagine 1 di 1
    Attrezzo utilizzato in questo passaggio:
    P5 Pentalobe Screwdriver Retina MacBook Pro and Air
    $5.99
    Compra
    • Shut down and close your computer. Lay it on a soft surface top-side down.

    • Remove the following ten screws:

    • Two 8 mm 5-point Pentalobe screws

    • Eight 2.5 mm 5-point Pentalobe screws

    • The special screwdriver needed to remove the 5-point Pentalobe screws can be found here.

    When you say:

    Remove the following ten screws:

    Two 8 mm 5-point Pentalobe screws

    Eight 2.5 mm 5-point Pentalobe screws

    Do the 8mm & 2.5mm dimensions refer to the LENGTH of those screws, or the size of the pentalobe? That is, are there other sizes of pentalobe drivers like there are for hex, phillips and torx? When only one dimension is provided, it is usually the socket/driver size, not the screw length, maybe since the length cannot be seen when the screw is installed.

    Can I suggest that you clarify your instructions so folks are confident they are only in need of _one_ pentalobe driver?

    Nerdily yours,

    Larry (whose iPhone 4S can now get through a day without 6 recharges thanks to ifixit.com ;-)

    larryleveen - Replica

    The 8mm and 2.5mm are the length of the screws. One pentalobe P5 screwdriver suffices for all the screws (P5 is implicitly the size of the pentalobe screw heads).

    Michael Welham -

    I sourced all the parts from ifixit, plus a magnetic project mat which I found to be very useful for organising the teardown and reassembly.

    Allen - Replica

    The magnetic mat is

    GERARD SZAREK -

    Keep the 2.5mm tiny screws away from the MagSafe connector as they will be attracted and sucked in to the magnet.

    Frank O'Carroll - Replica

    A tip an old bench tech taught me that has saved me many times: I put clear โ€œScotchโ€ tape over the case screws as they became โ€œfreeโ€. The tape kept them in place while I lifted the lid off, cleaned it etc.

    Michael Mee - Replica

    Thank you for a really smart tip! I will be using that countless more times!

    Lilljedahl -

    Iโ€™m confused about internet recovery and installing MacOS. Is all of this done before placing in the new ssd card or after. I donโ€™t have any files that I would like to safe/transfer, is all of this necessary, if I donโ€™t do it before placing new ssd, will I still be able to instal/upgrade macOS afterwards.

    Itโ€™s an old Mac and now it wonโ€™t start or charge, I know I will have to replace battery and put new battery first and turn on Mac before doing the ssd stuff. Since it wonโ€™t effing start.

    Iโ€™m really clueless about backing up old ssd, since I donโ€™t need any files, besides MacOS(software) ,and is that related to the ssd?

    AMG - Replica

    The answer to your question: You need to insert your SSD into the computer before internet recovery. If you start the recovery before inserting SSD, it wonโ€™t affect the setup, you wonโ€™t damage anything. But your SSD will not be detected (as there isnโ€™t one inserted.)

    Also, a little tip: If you bought a used SSD, go into Disk Utility and format the drive with the highest security level to permanently remove all of the previous files.

    Also a FYI: Internet Recovery will load up Mac OS X 10.9.5 Mavericks, so I would recommend making a recovery drive from a Big Sur (or desired version) through another Mac, and a USB. You can visit this support doc: https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT201372

    Hope this helps! -Dan

    danielwen -

    I got a macbook air with a damaged and swollen battery. I could remove all screws, except one 2,5 mm screw. Iโ€™m afraid it got damaged while attempting to remove it, I have no grip with the P5 pentalobe screwdriver. How can I proceed?

    Robert Hermans - Replica

    Hi Robert!

    Try some techniques found in this stripped screw removal guide. Good luck!

    Arthur Shi -

    Hello I have a macbook air they are say they do not have parts for my laptop macbook air 11 inches 2013 mid need to replace battery which one to buy

    vensilver - Replica

    Hello! This is the part you wantโ€”maybe weโ€™re not able to ship it to you if youโ€™re out of the United States. The battery in your MacBook Air should be the same for all 11โ€ between mid-2011 to early-2015.

    Arthur Shi -

    The smaller screws went in more easily when I put back all the screws along the hinge edge first.

    Rachel Slatkin - Replica

  2. MacBook Air 11" Mid 2013 I/O Board Replacement: passo 2, immagine 1 di 1
    • Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the Air.

  3. MacBook Air 11" Mid 2013 I/O Board Replacement, Battery Connector: passo 3, immagine 1 di 2 MacBook Air 11" Mid 2013 I/O Board Replacement, Battery Connector: passo 3, immagine 2 di 2
    • In this step you will disconnect the battery to help avoid shorting out any components during service.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry both short sides of the battery connector upward to disconnect it from its socket on the logic board.

    • Bend the battery cable slightly away from the logic board so the connector will not accidentally bend back and make contact with its socket.

    When reassembling the connector wire needs to be bent to fit.

    GERARD SZAREK - Replica

  4. MacBook Air 11" Mid 2013 I/O Board Replacement, I/O Board Cable: passo 4, immagine 1 di 2 MacBook Air 11" Mid 2013 I/O Board Replacement, I/O Board Cable: passo 4, immagine 2 di 2
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left and right I/O board cable connectors up off their respective sockets on the I/O board.

  5. MacBook Air 11" Mid 2013 I/O Board Replacement: passo 5, immagine 1 di 1
    • Lift and remove the I/O board cable.

  6. MacBook Air 11" Mid 2013 I/O Board Replacement, Fan: passo 6, immagine 1 di 2 MacBook Air 11" Mid 2013 I/O Board Replacement, Fan: passo 6, immagine 2 di 2
    • Use the tip of a spudger to carefully push on each side of the iSight camera cable connector to loosen it out of its socket on the logic board.

    • We recommend you gently "walk" the connector out of its socket.

  7. MacBook Air 11" Mid 2013 I/O Board Replacement: passo 7, immagine 1 di 2 MacBook Air 11" Mid 2013 I/O Board Replacement: passo 7, immagine 2 di 2
    • Peel the iSight camera cable up off the adhesive securing it to the fan.

    Additionally it seems as though the display assembly I have is from an earlier model with a different built in camera. I donโ€™t care if the camera works, could I chop the cord, power it up, and just no have a working camera?

    Aidan - Replica

  8. MacBook Air 11" Mid 2013 I/O Board Replacement: passo 8, immagine 1 di 2 MacBook Air 11" Mid 2013 I/O Board Replacement: passo 8, immagine 2 di 2
    • Use the tip of a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the fan cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    Be sure you understand how the connector works, if you have to go and look up โ€œapple ZIF connectorโ€ and watch a video. The one above flips up from where the tool is pointing at. Again do not damage the connector. Click the second picture to see this!

    joe - Replica

  9. MacBook Air 11" Mid 2013 I/O Board Replacement: passo 9, immagine 1 di 1
    • Remove the following three screws securing the fan to the upper case:

    • Two 5.5 mm T5 Torx screws

    • One 4.6 mm T5 Torx screw

    • In some models this is a 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw.

  10. MacBook Air 11" Mid 2013 I/O Board Replacement: passo 10, immagine 1 di 3 MacBook Air 11" Mid 2013 I/O Board Replacement: passo 10, immagine 2 di 3 MacBook Air 11" Mid 2013 I/O Board Replacement: passo 10, immagine 3 di 3
    • Lift, but do not remove the fan out of its recess in the upper case.

    • Carefully pull the fan ribbon cable out of its socket as you remove the fan from the Air.

  11. MacBook Air 11" Mid 2013 I/O Board Replacement, Battery: passo 11, immagine 1 di 1
    • Remove the following five screws securing the battery to the upper case:

    • Two 5.2 mm T5 Torx screws

    • One 6 mm T5 Torx screw

    • Two 2.6 mm T5 Torx screws

  12. MacBook Air 11" Mid 2013 I/O Board Replacement: passo 12, immagine 1 di 1
    • When handling the battery, avoid squeezing or touching the six exposed lithium polymer cells.

    • Lift the battery from its edge nearest the logic board and remove it from the upper case.

  13. MacBook Air 11" Mid 2013 I/O Board Replacement, I/O Board: passo 13, immagine 1 di 2 MacBook Air 11" Mid 2013 I/O Board Replacement, I/O Board: passo 13, immagine 2 di 2
    • Disconnect the I/O board power cable from the logic board by pulling the cable out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board toward the front edge of the Air.

  14. MacBook Air 11" Mid 2013 I/O Board Replacement: passo 14, immagine 1 di 2 MacBook Air 11" Mid 2013 I/O Board Replacement: passo 14, immagine 2 di 2
    • If necessary, use tweezers to remove any tape covering the microphone cable ZIF connector.

  15. MacBook Air 11" Mid 2013 I/O Board Replacement: passo 15, immagine 1 di 3 MacBook Air 11" Mid 2013 I/O Board Replacement: passo 15, immagine 2 di 3 MacBook Air 11" Mid 2013 I/O Board Replacement: passo 15, immagine 3 di 3
    • Use the tip of a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the microphone cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Pull the microphone ribbon cable straight out of its socket.

  16. MacBook Air 11" Mid 2013 I/O Board Replacement: passo 16, immagine 1 di 2 MacBook Air 11" Mid 2013 I/O Board Replacement: passo 16, immagine 2 di 2
    • Use the tip of a spudger to pry under the speaker cable near the connector to lift the connector straight up out of its socket.

  17. MacBook Air 11" Mid 2013 I/O Board Replacement: passo 17, immagine 1 di 2 MacBook Air 11" Mid 2013 I/O Board Replacement: passo 17, immagine 2 di 2
    • De-route the cable from its notch in the I/O board.

  18. MacBook Air 11" Mid 2013 I/O Board Replacement: passo 18, immagine 1 di 2 MacBook Air 11" Mid 2013 I/O Board Replacement: passo 18, immagine 2 di 2
    • Remove the small rubber gasket from the corner of the upper case nearest the I/O board.

  19. MacBook Air 11" Mid 2013 I/O Board Replacement: passo 19, immagine 1 di 1
    • Remove the single 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw securing the I/O board to the upper case.

    • In some models this is a 3.1 mm T5 Torx screw.

  20. MacBook Air 11" Mid 2013 I/O Board Replacement: passo 20, immagine 1 di 3 MacBook Air 11" Mid 2013 I/O Board Replacement: passo 20, immagine 2 di 3 MacBook Air 11" Mid 2013 I/O Board Replacement: passo 20, immagine 3 di 3
    • Carefully lift the I/O board by its power cable and pull it away from the edge of the case.

Conclusione

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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Un commento

Great tutorial. I may do this for sure. I get no audio and no microphone on my MacBook air. I took it to Apple and they told me it was hardware and not software. In Settins in Audio, there is no Audio Ouput available and No built in Mic available. Would you imagine this might be what is wrong with my Air?

Jon Bonci - Replica

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