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  1. , Scocca inferiore: passo 1, immagine 1 di 1
    Attrezzo utilizzato in questo passaggio:
    P5 Pentalobe Screwdriver Retina MacBook Pro and Air
    $5.99
    Compra
    • Spegni e chiudi il tuo portatile. Appoggialo su una superfice morbida a testa in giù.

    • Svita le seguenti dieci viti:

    • Due viti Pentalobe 5-Point da 8 mm

    • Otto viti Pentalobe 5-Point da 2,5 mm

    • Puoi trovare il cacciavite speciale per rimuovere le viti Pentalobe 5-Point qui.

    When you say:

    Remove the following ten screws:

    Two 8 mm 5-point Pentalobe screws

    Eight 2.5 mm 5-point Pentalobe screws

    Do the 8mm & 2.5mm dimensions refer to the LENGTH of those screws, or the size of the pentalobe? That is, are there other sizes of pentalobe drivers like there are for hex, phillips and torx? When only one dimension is provided, it is usually the socket/driver size, not the screw length, maybe since the length cannot be seen when the screw is installed.

    Can I suggest that you clarify your instructions so folks are confident they are only in need of _one_ pentalobe driver?

    Nerdily yours,

    Larry (whose iPhone 4S can now get through a day without 6 recharges thanks to ifixit.com ;-)

    larryleveen - Replica

    The 8mm and 2.5mm are the length of the screws. One pentalobe P5 screwdriver suffices for all the screws (P5 is implicitly the size of the pentalobe screw heads).

    Michael Welham -

    I sourced all the parts from ifixit, plus a magnetic project mat which I found to be very useful for organising the teardown and reassembly.

    Allen - Replica

    The magnetic mat is

    GERARD SZAREK -

    Keep the 2.5mm tiny screws away from the MagSafe connector as they will be attracted and sucked in to the magnet.

    Frank O'Carroll - Replica

    A tip an old bench tech taught me that has saved me many times: I put clear “Scotch” tape over the case screws as they became “free”. The tape kept them in place while I lifted the lid off, cleaned it etc.

    Michael Mee - Replica

    Thank you for a really smart tip! I will be using that countless more times!

    Lilljedahl -

    I’m confused about internet recovery and installing MacOS. Is all of this done before placing in the new ssd card or after. I don’t have any files that I would like to safe/transfer, is all of this necessary, if I don’t do it before placing new ssd, will I still be able to instal/upgrade macOS afterwards.

    It’s an old Mac and now it won’t start or charge, I know I will have to replace battery and put new battery first and turn on Mac before doing the ssd stuff. Since it won’t effing start.

    I’m really clueless about backing up old ssd, since I don’t need any files, besides MacOS(software) ,and is that related to the ssd?

    AMG - Replica

    The answer to your question: You need to insert your SSD into the computer before internet recovery. If you start the recovery before inserting SSD, it won’t affect the setup, you won’t damage anything. But your SSD will not be detected (as there isn’t one inserted.)

    Also, a little tip: If you bought a used SSD, go into Disk Utility and format the drive with the highest security level to permanently remove all of the previous files.

    Also a FYI: Internet Recovery will load up Mac OS X 10.9.5 Mavericks, so I would recommend making a recovery drive from a Big Sur (or desired version) through another Mac, and a USB. You can visit this support doc: https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT201372

    Hope this helps! -Dan

    danielwen -

    I got a macbook air with a damaged and swollen battery. I could remove all screws, except one 2,5 mm screw. I’m afraid it got damaged while attempting to remove it, I have no grip with the P5 pentalobe screwdriver. How can I proceed?

    Robert Hermans - Replica

    Hi Robert!

    Try some techniques found in this stripped screw removal guide. Good luck!

    Arthur Shi -

    Hello I have a macbook air they are say they do not have parts for my laptop macbook air 11 inches 2013 mid need to replace battery which one to buy

    vensilver - Replica

    Hello! This is the part you want—maybe we’re not able to ship it to you if you’re out of the United States. The battery in your MacBook Air should be the same for all 11” between mid-2011 to early-2015.

    Arthur Shi -

    The smaller screws went in more easily when I put back all the screws along the hinge edge first.

    Rachel Slatkin - Replica

  2. : passo 2, immagine 1 di 1
    • Infila le dita tra lo schermo e la scocca inferiore e tira verso l'alto per liberare la scocca dal MacBook Air.

  3. , Connettore della batteria: passo 3, immagine 1 di 2 , Connettore della batteria: passo 3, immagine 2 di 2
    • In questo passaggio scollegherai la batteria per evitare di far fare corto circuito a qualsiasi componente durante la riparazione.

    • Usa la parte piatta di uno spudger per fare leva su entrambi i lati del connettore della batteria per scollegarlo dalla sua presa sulla scheda madre.

    • Piega leggermente il cavo della batteria lontano dalla scheda madre in modo che non torni a far contatto con la sua presa.

    When reassembling the connector wire needs to be bent to fit.

    GERARD SZAREK - Replica

  4. Questo passaggio è privo di traduzione. Aiuta a tradurlo

    : passo 4, immagine 1 di 2 : passo 4, immagine 2 di 2
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left and right I/O board cable connectors up off their respective sockets on the I/O board.

  5. Questo passaggio è privo di traduzione. Aiuta a tradurlo

    : passo 5, immagine 1 di 1
    • Lift and remove the I/O board cable.

  6. Questo passaggio è privo di traduzione. Aiuta a tradurlo

    : passo 6, immagine 1 di 2 : passo 6, immagine 2 di 2
    • Use the tip of a spudger to carefully push on each side of the iSight camera cable connector to loosen it out of its socket on the logic board.

    • We recommend you gently "walk" the connector out of its socket.

  7. Questo passaggio è privo di traduzione. Aiuta a tradurlo

    : passo 7, immagine 1 di 2 : passo 7, immagine 2 di 2
    • Peel the iSight camera cable up off the adhesive securing it to the fan.

    Additionally it seems as though the display assembly I have is from an earlier model with a different built in camera. I don’t care if the camera works, could I chop the cord, power it up, and just no have a working camera?

    Aidan - Replica

  8. Questo passaggio è privo di traduzione. Aiuta a tradurlo

    : passo 8, immagine 1 di 2 : passo 8, immagine 2 di 2
    • Use the tip of a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the fan cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    Be sure you understand how the connector works, if you have to go and look up “apple ZIF connector” and watch a video. The one above flips up from where the tool is pointing at. Again do not damage the connector. Click the second picture to see this!

    joe - Replica

  9. Questo passaggio è privo di traduzione. Aiuta a tradurlo

    : passo 9, immagine 1 di 1
    • Remove the following three screws securing the fan to the upper case:

    • Two 5.5 mm T5 Torx screws

    • One 4.6 mm T5 Torx screw

    • In some models this is a 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw.

  10. Questo passaggio è privo di traduzione. Aiuta a tradurlo

    : passo 10, immagine 1 di 3 : passo 10, immagine 2 di 3 : passo 10, immagine 3 di 3
    • Lift, but do not remove the fan out of its recess in the upper case.

    • Carefully pull the fan ribbon cable out of its socket as you remove the fan from the Air.

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Sam Goldheart

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Un commento

I have error PPF004.

Liviolog4 - Replica

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