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MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Upper Case Replacement

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  1. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Upper Case Replacement, Lower Case: passo 1, immagine 1 di 1
    Attrezzo utilizzato in questo passaggio:
    P5 Pentalobe Screwdriver Retina MacBook Pro and Air
    $5.99
    Compra
    • Shut down and close your computer. Lay it on a soft surface top-side down.

    • Remove the following ten screws:

    • Two 8 mm 5-point Pentalobe screws

    • Eight 2.5 mm 5-point Pentalobe screws

    • The special screwdriver needed to remove the 5-point Pentalobe screws can be found here.

    When you say:

    Remove the following ten screws:

    Two 8 mm 5-point Pentalobe screws

    Eight 2.5 mm 5-point Pentalobe screws

    Do the 8mm & 2.5mm dimensions refer to the LENGTH of those screws, or the size of the pentalobe? That is, are there other sizes of pentalobe drivers like there are for hex, phillips and torx? When only one dimension is provided, it is usually the socket/driver size, not the screw length, maybe since the length cannot be seen when the screw is installed.

    Can I suggest that you clarify your instructions so folks are confident they are only in need of _one_ pentalobe driver?

    Nerdily yours,

    Larry (whose iPhone 4S can now get through a day without 6 recharges thanks to ifixit.com ;-)

    larryleveen - Replica

    The 8mm and 2.5mm are the length of the screws. One pentalobe P5 screwdriver suffices for all the screws (P5 is implicitly the size of the pentalobe screw heads).

    Michael Welham -

    I sourced all the parts from ifixit, plus a magnetic project mat which I found to be very useful for organising the teardown and reassembly.

    Allen - Replica

    The magnetic mat is

    GERARD SZAREK -

    Keep the 2.5mm tiny screws away from the MagSafe connector as they will be attracted and sucked in to the magnet.

    Frank O'Carroll - Replica

    A tip an old bench tech taught me that has saved me many times: I put clear “Scotch” tape over the case screws as they became “free”. The tape kept them in place while I lifted the lid off, cleaned it etc.

    Michael Mee - Replica

    Thank you for a really smart tip! I will be using that countless more times!

    Lilljedahl -

    I’m confused about internet recovery and installing MacOS. Is all of this done before placing in the new ssd card or after. I don’t have any files that I would like to safe/transfer, is all of this necessary, if I don’t do it before placing new ssd, will I still be able to instal/upgrade macOS afterwards.

    It’s an old Mac and now it won’t start or charge, I know I will have to replace battery and put new battery first and turn on Mac before doing the ssd stuff. Since it won’t effing start.

    I’m really clueless about backing up old ssd, since I don’t need any files, besides MacOS(software) ,and is that related to the ssd?

    AMG - Replica

    The answer to your question: You need to insert your SSD into the computer before internet recovery. If you start the recovery before inserting SSD, it won’t affect the setup, you won’t damage anything. But your SSD will not be detected (as there isn’t one inserted.)

    Also, a little tip: If you bought a used SSD, go into Disk Utility and format the drive with the highest security level to permanently remove all of the previous files.

    Also a FYI: Internet Recovery will load up Mac OS X 10.9.5 Mavericks, so I would recommend making a recovery drive from a Big Sur (or desired version) through another Mac, and a USB. You can visit this support doc: https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT201372

    Hope this helps! -Dan

    danielwen -

    I got a macbook air with a damaged and swollen battery. I could remove all screws, except one 2,5 mm screw. I’m afraid it got damaged while attempting to remove it, I have no grip with the P5 pentalobe screwdriver. How can I proceed?

    Robert Hermans - Replica

    Hi Robert!

    Try some techniques found in this stripped screw removal guide. Good luck!

    Arthur Shi -

    Hello I have a macbook air they are say they do not have parts for my laptop macbook air 11 inches 2013 mid need to replace battery which one to buy

    vensilver - Replica

    Hello! This is the part you want—maybe we’re not able to ship it to you if you’re out of the United States. The battery in your MacBook Air should be the same for all 11” between mid-2011 to early-2015.

    Arthur Shi -

    The smaller screws went in more easily when I put back all the screws along the hinge edge first.

    Rachel Slatkin - Replica

  2. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Upper Case Replacement: passo 2, immagine 1 di 1
    • Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the Air.

  3. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Upper Case Replacement, Battery Connector: passo 3, immagine 1 di 2 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Upper Case Replacement, Battery Connector: passo 3, immagine 2 di 2
    • In this step you will disconnect the battery to help avoid shorting out any components during service.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry both short sides of the battery connector upward to disconnect it from its socket on the logic board.

    • Bend the battery cable slightly away from the logic board so the connector will not accidentally bend back and make contact with its socket.

    When reassembling the connector wire needs to be bent to fit.

    GERARD SZAREK - Replica

  4. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Upper Case Replacement, I/O Board Cable: passo 4, immagine 1 di 2 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Upper Case Replacement, I/O Board Cable: passo 4, immagine 2 di 2
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left and right I/O board cable connectors up off their respective sockets on the I/O board.

  5. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Upper Case Replacement: passo 5, immagine 1 di 1
    • Lift and remove the I/O board cable.

  6. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Upper Case Replacement, Fan: passo 6, immagine 1 di 2 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Upper Case Replacement, Fan: passo 6, immagine 2 di 2
    • Use the tip of a spudger to carefully push on each side of the iSight camera cable connector to loosen it out of its socket on the logic board.

    • We recommend you gently "walk" the connector out of its socket.

  7. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Upper Case Replacement: passo 7, immagine 1 di 2 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Upper Case Replacement: passo 7, immagine 2 di 2
    • Peel the iSight camera cable up off the adhesive securing it to the fan.

    Additionally it seems as though the display assembly I have is from an earlier model with a different built in camera. I don’t care if the camera works, could I chop the cord, power it up, and just no have a working camera?

    Aidan - Replica

  8. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Upper Case Replacement: passo 8, immagine 1 di 2 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Upper Case Replacement: passo 8, immagine 2 di 2
    • Use the tip of a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the fan cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    Be sure you understand how the connector works, if you have to go and look up “apple ZIF connector” and watch a video. The one above flips up from where the tool is pointing at. Again do not damage the connector. Click the second picture to see this!

    joe - Replica

  9. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Upper Case Replacement: passo 9, immagine 1 di 1
    • Remove the following three screws securing the fan to the upper case:

    • Two 5.5 mm T5 Torx screws

    • One 4.6 mm T5 Torx screw

    • In some models this is a 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw.

  10. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Upper Case Replacement: passo 10, immagine 1 di 3 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Upper Case Replacement: passo 10, immagine 2 di 3 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Upper Case Replacement: passo 10, immagine 3 di 3
    • Lift, but do not remove the fan out of its recess in the upper case.

    • Carefully pull the fan ribbon cable out of its socket as you remove the fan from the Air.

  11. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Upper Case Replacement, Logic Board Assembly: passo 11, immagine 1 di 3 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Upper Case Replacement, Logic Board Assembly: passo 11, immagine 2 di 3 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Upper Case Replacement, Logic Board Assembly: passo 11, immagine 3 di 3
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry both antenna connectors up from their sockets on the AirPort/Bluetooth card, and move them out of the way.

    Be very careful. When I did this - just as in the photo - I prised the top of the antenna connector off from the bottom of it, leaving me with only one functioning antenna.

    Andrew Wainwright - Replica

    You can usually pull the airport card out of the socket and let it dangle by the attached wires. They can be frustrating to re-attach.

    maccentric - Replica

    This seems like great advice! Any more details would be greatly appreciated

    Colleen V -

    Just walk it out slowly. The cables don’t have a lot of slack, so if you pull too hard on the card it may yank the cables out of their sockets, or worse, when it comes free.

    maccentric -

    When I did this, one antenna connection broke off and the other will not reattach for love nor money. I have not idea how to fix it. I’d try a blob of solder if my fingers were the size of matchsticks! Haha

    Andrew Aldis - Replica

  12. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Upper Case Replacement: passo 12, immagine 1 di 1
    • Remove the following five screws securing the battery to the upper case:

    • Two 5.2 mm T5 Torx screws

    • One 6 mm T5 Torx screw

    • Two 2.6 mm T5 Torx screws

  13. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Upper Case Replacement: passo 13, immagine 1 di 1
    • When handling the battery, avoid squeezing or touching the six exposed lithium polymer cells.

    • Lift the battery from its edge nearest the logic board and remove it from the upper case.

  14. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Upper Case Replacement: passo 14, immagine 1 di 2 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Upper Case Replacement: passo 14, immagine 2 di 2
    • Disconnect the I/O board by pulling the power cable away from its socket on the logic board.

    • Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board toward the front edge of the Air.

    Did it wrong to begin with by taking the complete socket away and not just the insert. Now I can’t get the socket back on the logic board contacts. Any ideas?

    John Lillywhite - Replica

    I have the same issue! Did you find a solution?

    Alexis Townsend -

    It's safer and easier to use the tip of a spudger to depress the catch located on the top of the socket. Push down and towards the connector and it will ease itself out without damage.

    jgreenb2 - Replica

  15. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Upper Case Replacement: passo 15, immagine 1 di 3 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Upper Case Replacement: passo 15, immagine 2 di 3 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Upper Case Replacement: passo 15, immagine 3 di 3
    • Use the tip of a spudger to de-route the antenna cables from their notches in the logic board.

    I ordered a used display and the antennae wires are way too short to make it in to their respective ports (either of them). Am I missing something? Anything I should know to do a splice?

    -Aidan

    Aidan - Replica

    I did not disconnect the tiny gold terminals, they are too fragile. I just slide out the card but leave it connected to the antenna, if replacing the logic board is the aim.

    Jurgen - Replica

    They're not clicking back in when I reassemble it

    Carson Banker - Replica

  16. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Upper Case Replacement: passo 16, immagine 1 di 3 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Upper Case Replacement: passo 16, immagine 2 di 3 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Upper Case Replacement: passo 16, immagine 3 di 3
    • Gently push the tip of a spudger under the black plastic flap stuck to the display data cable lock to make the lock pop upward and away from the socket.

    • While holding the lock away from the socket, gently pull the display data cable out of its socket.

    • Do not pull upward on the display data cable as you disconnect it, as its socket may break off the logic board.

  17. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Upper Case Replacement: passo 17, immagine 1 di 3 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Upper Case Replacement: passo 17, immagine 2 di 3 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Upper Case Replacement: passo 17, immagine 3 di 3
    • Use the tip of a spudger to pry under the speaker cable connector, lifting it straight up from its socket.

    • De-route the cable from its notch in the logic board.

  18. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Upper Case Replacement: passo 18, immagine 1 di 3 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Upper Case Replacement: passo 18, immagine 2 di 3 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Upper Case Replacement: passo 18, immagine 3 di 3
    • Use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the trackpad ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Pull the trackpad ribbon cable straight out of its socket toward the front edge of the Air.

  19. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Upper Case Replacement: passo 19, immagine 1 di 3 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Upper Case Replacement: passo 19, immagine 2 di 3 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Upper Case Replacement: passo 19, immagine 3 di 3
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard backlight ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Pull the keyboard backlight ribbon cable out of its socket.

  20. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Upper Case Replacement: passo 20, immagine 1 di 1
    • Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the AirPort/Bluetooth card to the logic board.

  21. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Upper Case Replacement: passo 21, immagine 1 di 3 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Upper Case Replacement: passo 21, immagine 2 di 3 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Upper Case Replacement: passo 21, immagine 3 di 3
    • Slightly lift the free end of the AirPort/Bluetooth board and pull it out of its socket on the logic board.

    • To avoid damaging its socket on the logic board, do not excessively lift the free end of the AirPort/Bluetooth card.

  22. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Upper Case Replacement: passo 22, immagine 1 di 1
    • Remove the three 3.6 mm T5 Torx screws securing the logic board to the upper case.

    • In some models these are 3.1 mm T5 Torx screws.

  23. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Upper Case Replacement: passo 23, immagine 1 di 3 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Upper Case Replacement: passo 23, immagine 2 di 3 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Upper Case Replacement: passo 23, immagine 3 di 3
    • Gently lift the logic board assembly from the heat sink end and pull it away from the port side of the case to remove it from the Air.

    • When replacing the logic board, insert the board's rubber edge under the port-side rubber gasket, then lower the board into place.

    There's a screw that's connecting the logic board to the casing that has to be removed before sliding the logic board out. I found that out the hard way.

    Andrea Carter - Replica

    Only 3 were in mine, where did you find another screw?

    maccentric -

    When replacing the logic board, make sure you haven’t trapped an antenna cable underneath. Easy to sort it out now, much more annoying if you only discover it after screwing everything down first!

    Andrew Wainwright - Replica

  24. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Upper Case Replacement, I/O Board: passo 24, immagine 1 di 3 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Upper Case Replacement, I/O Board: passo 24, immagine 2 di 3 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Upper Case Replacement, I/O Board: passo 24, immagine 3 di 3
    • Remove the small rubber gasket from the corner of the upper case nearest the the I/O board.

    • Remove the gasket from the corner nearest display cable connector.

  25. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Upper Case Replacement: passo 25, immagine 1 di 2 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Upper Case Replacement: passo 25, immagine 2 di 2
    • If necessary, use tweezers to remove any tape covering the microphone cable ZIF connector.

  26. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Upper Case Replacement: passo 26, immagine 1 di 3 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Upper Case Replacement: passo 26, immagine 2 di 3 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Upper Case Replacement: passo 26, immagine 3 di 3
    • Use the tip of a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the microphone cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • With a pair of tweezers, pull the microphone ribbon cable straight out of its socket.

  27. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Upper Case Replacement: passo 27, immagine 1 di 3 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Upper Case Replacement: passo 27, immagine 2 di 3 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Upper Case Replacement: passo 27, immagine 3 di 3
    • Use the tip of a spudger to pry under the speaker cable near the connector, lifting it straight up from its socket.

    • De-route the cable from its notch in the logic board.

    When I reassembled it these wouldn't click back in?

    Carson Banker - Replica

  28. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Upper Case Replacement: passo 28, immagine 1 di 1
    • Remove the single 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw securing the I/O board to the upper case.

  29. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Upper Case Replacement: passo 29, immagine 1 di 3 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Upper Case Replacement: passo 29, immagine 2 di 3 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Upper Case Replacement: passo 29, immagine 3 di 3
    • Carefully lift the I/O board by its power cable and pull it away from the edge of the case.

  30. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Upper Case Replacement, Display Assembly: passo 30, immagine 1 di 3 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Upper Case Replacement, Display Assembly: passo 30, immagine 2 di 3 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Upper Case Replacement, Display Assembly: passo 30, immagine 3 di 3
    • Peel up the six cable loops securing the antenna cables to the upper case.

    • In some models there are seven cable loops.

    • Gently pull the cable loops slightly out of the channel cut into the upper case one at a time.

    • Use your spudger to open up the plastic loops as you de-route the antenna cables through them.

    • Repeat this for each retaining loop until the antenna cables are free from the upper case.

    On the reassemble phase, rethread these before you reattach the display/

    Mark Kammerer - Replica

    Agreed, with Mark, I found pushing the loop in the hole over the gasket material and then using a small tweezer to reposition them. Once you attache the display, you will probably have to push the securing tabs back to the working side of the back.

    joe - Replica

  31. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Upper Case Replacement: passo 31, immagine 1 di 2 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Upper Case Replacement: passo 31, immagine 2 di 2
    • Remove the inner 4.9 mm T8 Torx screw securing each display hinge to the upper case (two screws total).

  32. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Upper Case Replacement: passo 32, immagine 1 di 1
    • Open the display until it is perpendicular to the upper case and place it on a table as shown.

    • While holding the Air steady, remove the remaining 4.9 mm T8 Torx screw from the lower display bracket.

  33. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Upper Case Replacement: passo 33, immagine 1 di 1
    • Before removing the last display screw, be sure to hold the display and upper case steady with your other hand. Failure to do so may allow the components to fall onto the table, causing potentially expensive damage.

    • Remove the last 4.9 mm T8 Torx screw securing the display to the upper case.

  34. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Upper Case Replacement: passo 34, immagine 1 di 2 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Upper Case Replacement: passo 34, immagine 2 di 2
    • Push the upper case slightly toward the display assembly, then rotate it away from the front of the display assembly.

    • Once the two display hinges have cleared the upper case, remove the display.

  35. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Upper Case Replacement, Upper Case: passo 35, immagine 1 di 2 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Upper Case Replacement, Upper Case: passo 35, immagine 2 di 2
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the right speaker off the adhesive securing it to the upper case.

    • Only pry up on the speaker from the areas of bare aluminum on the upper case. Prying up from the keyboard area may damage the keyboard and the speaker itself.

    • Remove the right speaker from the upper case.

  36. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Upper Case Replacement: passo 36, immagine 1 di 2 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Upper Case Replacement: passo 36, immagine 2 di 2
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker off the adhesive securing it to the upper case.

    • Only pry up on the speaker from the areas of bare aluminum on the upper case. Prying up from the keyboard area may damage the keyboard and the speaker itself.

    • Remove the left speaker from the upper case.

    No screw to remove here.

    Mark Kammerer - Replica

  37. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Upper Case Replacement: passo 37, immagine 1 di 2 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Upper Case Replacement: passo 37, immagine 2 di 2
    • Use the tip of a spudger to pry the microphone away from the side of the upper case.

    • Remove the microphone from the upper case.

    • Upper case remains.

    This connector is different on mine and does not appear to be removeable. My replacement upper case came with it attached.

    Mark Kammerer - Replica

    This microphone is different and glued in. Takes a bit of prying out

    Steve Weinberg - Replica

    Don't pull too hard the microphone has the density of cardboard and I ripped mine in half.

    CaRina Deneseus - Replica

  38. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Upper Case Replacement, Upper Case: passo 38, immagine 1 di 3 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Upper Case Replacement, Upper Case: passo 38, immagine 2 di 3 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Upper Case Replacement, Upper Case: passo 38, immagine 3 di 3
    • The ZIF connector for the keyboard ribbon cable is hidden under the cable itself.

    • Push/lift the keyboard ribbon cable off of the upper case with one hand.

    • With the other hand, use a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the ZIF connector.

    • Once the retaining flap has been flipped up, carefully pull the ribbon cable straight out of its socket.

  39. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Upper Case Replacement: passo 39, immagine 1 di 2 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Upper Case Replacement: passo 39, immagine 2 di 2
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to separate the trackpad ribbon cable from the underside of the keyboard.

    • The cable is held in place with adhesive. Work carefully, and be sure to not let the spudger slip and damage any components.

  40. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Upper Case Replacement: passo 40, immagine 1 di 1
    • Remove the six 1.5 mm Phillips #00 screws securing the trackpad to the upper case.

    • Check your replacement upper case—if it doesn't have this wide T5 screw, remove it to transfer into the replacement.

    • This is an adjustment screw to set the distance of the click of the trackpad—on reassembly, test the click and adjust this screw until it feels right.

    Also you will need to remove the T5 screw at the bottom of the trackpad, closest to the edge. It's located right underneath the hill shape in the aluminum. Without it the trackpad will not physically click.

    Orioles4L - Replica

    I needed the #000 bit instead of #00.

    wanderchic - Replica

    I also needed #000.

    alyssaberns -

    #000 is a necessity to remove those six screws - #00 is just too thick to fit.

    Michael Sweetser -

  41. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Upper Case Replacement: passo 41, immagine 1 di 3 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Upper Case Replacement: passo 41, immagine 2 di 3 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Upper Case Replacement: passo 41, immagine 3 di 3
    • Holding the upper case up off the table with one hand, gently push the trackpad up through the upper case.

    • Remove the trackpad from the upper case.

  42. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Upper Case Replacement: passo 42, immagine 1 di 1
    • The upper case remains.

Conclusione

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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5 Commenti

Thanks to Sam Lionheart for this guide! Yes difficult but a great step by step guide!

A member of our family had a coffee spill on their MacBook Air 11". The Apple Store said the machine was "dead" forever and encouraged us to buy new. I used this guide to take the Air apart, clean it, and put it back together. The Air is now working, it has some minor glitches so we will have to watch it and keep the data backed-up. But it works.

The hardest parts, where I wished there was more hints - helps, were putting the Air back together at: #38 reattaching the larger ZIF connector and #15 reattaching the antenna cables.

David - Replica

Thanks to this guide, it was easy. Took me about 2.5 hours total, no problems after re-assembly.

Check your replacement part, mine included cable loops and microphone already installed, so I did not need to remove during disassembly.

Thanks Sam & ifixit!!

Ben Mishkin - Replica

Used this guide to replace the keyboard and backlight to my MacBook Air 11” early 2014 A1465! Had to accompany the repair with a few videos on YouTube for help with KB removal and reinstall. Apple charges 231 including labor and iFixit charges $220 for the top cover, but it’s not necessary. Ordered the KB, backlight, and extra set of screws (for the KB) on EBay for about $25 total Installing the 50+ KB screws was very tedious and routing the antenna was a pain, but worth saving $200!

Daniel Cho - Replica

Very good guide. I discovered some a missing screw and gasket. Steps are accurate although I did it in a different order.

watertubigh2o - Replica

My 5 year old spilled a glass of water on the keyboard and after opening and putting the computer upside down for a couple of days, it would not do anything. After sitting dead for a month I decided to crack it open. I found a bunch of corrosion (no surprise) on the logic board and some of the connectors and cleaned it all with alcohol. When I put everything back together, the computer actually began charging and was awakened from its sleeping state. However, the keyboard was not working properly, so I decided to order this upper case. While tedious, the replacement was not too difficult. When I finished and powered on, it started up no problem, but it would not connect to the internet (wifi connected, just no internet). A simple restart fixed this issue. Now, the only issue I’m dealing with is that the left “shift,” “opt/alt,” and '“ctrl” keys do not work. The standard advice is to reset the SMC, but this requires the use of the affected keys. Please help!

Aaron Smela - Replica

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