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Introduzione

Use this guide to replace a damaged heat sink or to reapply its thermal paste.

Be sure to apply a new layer of thermal paste before reinstalling your heat sink.

    • Shut down and close your computer. Lay it on a soft surface top-side down.

    • Remove the following ten screws:

    • Two 8 mm 5-point Pentalobe screws

    • Eight 2.5 mm 5-point Pentalobe screws

    • The special screwdriver needed to remove the 5-point Pentalobe screws can be found here.

  1. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Heat Sink Replacement: passo 2, immagine 1 di 1
    • Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the Air.

  2. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Heat Sink Replacement, Battery Connector: passo 3, immagine 1 di 2 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Heat Sink Replacement, Battery Connector: passo 3, immagine 2 di 2
    • In this step you will disconnect the battery to help avoid shorting out any components during service.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry both short sides of the battery connector upward to disconnect it from its socket on the logic board.

    • Bend the battery cable slightly away from the logic board so the connector will not accidentally bend back and make contact with its socket.

  3. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Heat Sink Replacement, Fan: passo 4, immagine 1 di 2 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Heat Sink Replacement, Fan: passo 4, immagine 2 di 2
    • Use the tip of a spudger to carefully push on each side of the iSight camera cable connector to loosen it out of its socket on the logic board.

    • We recommend you gently "walk" the connector out of its socket.

  4. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Heat Sink Replacement: passo 5, immagine 1 di 2 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Heat Sink Replacement: passo 5, immagine 2 di 2
    • Peel the iSight camera cable up off the adhesive securing it to the fan.

  5. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Heat Sink Replacement: passo 6, immagine 1 di 2 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Heat Sink Replacement: passo 6, immagine 2 di 2
    • Use the tip of a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the fan cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

  6. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Heat Sink Replacement: passo 7, immagine 1 di 1
    • Remove the following three screws securing the fan to the upper case:

    • Two 5.5 mm T5 Torx screws

    • One 4.6 mm T5 Torx screw

    • In some models this is a 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw.

  7. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Heat Sink Replacement: passo 8, immagine 1 di 3 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Heat Sink Replacement: passo 8, immagine 2 di 3 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Heat Sink Replacement: passo 8, immagine 3 di 3
    • Lift, but do not remove the fan out of its recess in the upper case.

    • Carefully pull the fan ribbon cable out of its socket as you remove the fan from the Air.

  8. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Heat Sink Replacement, Heat Sink: passo 9, immagine 1 di 1
    • Remove the four 2.5 mm T5 Torx screws securing the heat sink to the logic board.

    • If the heat sink seems to be stuck to the logic board after removing all four screws, use a spudger to carefully separate the heat sink from the face of the CPU.

    • Remove the heat sink from the logic board.

    • When reinstalling the heat sink, be sure to apply a new layer of thermal paste. If you have never applied thermal paste before, we have a guide that makes it easy.

Conclusione

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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Sam Goldheart

Membro da: 18/10/2012

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3 Commenti

you should seriously note the danger of the cpu screw holders. apple for some reason decided to attach the fricken screw receivers/standoffs via surface mount. they dont have a bottom cap either. use a screw slightly too long or turn too far and pop(screw pushes against motherboard and pops the holder off)... one corner is unable to be screwed in. ask me how i learned this...lol...I cant see how this design decision helps anything but apples wallet. the other side of the board has components smds as well so its not like a really short through hole was undo-able.

John W - Replica

There is step missing between 3 and 4. There is another ribbon cable over fan that is still there in step 3 but gone in step 4.

Bogdaniec Ze Zbyszka - Replica

The step 3 and 4, there should be a step removing the I/O cable. I/O cable must be removed or disassembled to access iSight camera cable. The I/O cable is covering the entire iSight cable, and without removing, accessing the iSight cable will extremely difficult.

ChiKen - Replica

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