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Start by turning off the device, unplugging it and remove the Ionic Breeze "filter". It's more of a tri-blade object rather than a filter but you get the idea.
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Next, lay the device flat and remove the 4 screws holding the Ionic Breeze to its base and pull it away from the device.
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Remove the 2 hidden screws found beneath the base with your #1 screwdriver.
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Remove the 12 smaller screws with your #1 hobby screwdriver.
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Remove the 4 screws attaching the top of the device to the body with your #1 screwdriver.
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Separate the two halves of the body.
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Although I have separated the top from the main body in this picture you do not need to worry about this now. We will do this in a later step.
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Photos depict where to desolder the power cables connection points. Remove any hot glue that may be holding down the cables. These devices are a little seasoned so the glue should not be hard to remove by hand.
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Remember to pull the ground cable completely through the PCB. We will re-thread it back through during the reassembly process.
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Gently lift up on the top in order to separate it from the half that it is attached to.
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Pull the plastic piece out from its retaining slot.
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At this point, the PCB may make a slight popping sound. It didn't break! It simply popped out of it's retaining slot as well as you removed the plastic piece.
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Remove the single screw that's hidden underneath the top/power button unit.
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If you look at the smaller bottom PCB you will notice 2 wires on both sides of it. Slightly above that there should be some hot glue holding these wires to the plastic housing. You cannot see it in the picture but its estimated location is highlighted in red. Remove this and any hot glue that's holding the main power cable in place.
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When the glue is removed gently lift the lower plastic piece and the bottom PCB at the same time. It will come out as one whole piece.
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Place the electronics off to the side.
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Wrap both ends of the power cable real tight with plastic wrap and wrap the entire thing in electrical tape.
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Unscrew the 2 screws holding the LED light PCB in place.
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I replaced the "Low" LED first. It's the only one on the PCB that doesn't have a surface mount capacitor.
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Repeat until all 3, or the desired number, of LEDs are replaced.
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I've replaced the original OEM blue with: 3mm Green LED x3 Current: 20mA Forward Voltage: 3.0-3.4v
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