Introduzione

L'aggiunta di un secondo disco rigido nell'iMac offre diversi vantaggi, fra cui velocità più elevate, maggiore spazio di archiviazione e la possibilità di installare nuovi software senza problemi. Utilizzare questa guida per eseguire l'installazione mediante il nostro case per disco rigido nell'alloggiamento ottico.

  1. Allentare la vite con testa a croce al centro dello sportello di accesso.
    • Allentare la vite con testa a croce al centro dello sportello di accesso.

    • La vite resta all'interno dello sportello di accesso.

    • Rimuovere lo sportello di accesso dall'iMac.

    isn't it actually pc2-5300s ?

    grze - Replica

  2. Il pannello di vetro è fissato nella mascherina anteriore con quattordici magneti posizionati lungo il perimetro.
    • Il pannello di vetro è fissato nella mascherina anteriore con quattordici magneti posizionati lungo il perimetro.

    • Far aderire due ventose agli angoli opposti del pannello di vetro.

    • Per far aderire le nostre ventose, per prima cosa posizionarle con la maniglia semovente parallela alla superficie del pannello di vetro. Tenendo delicatamente la ventosa contro il vetro, sollevare la maniglia semovente finché non è parallela all'altra maniglia.

    • Se la ventosa non aderisce, provare a ripulire il pannello di vetro e la ventosa con un solvente delicato, come i detergenti per i vetri.

    At this stage and later handling the LCD I found thin cotton gloves helped to reduce smudges

    john31 - Replica

    My GPS unit's car mount suction cup worked nicely here - couldn't find any at the store and didn't want to wait for mail order!

    Two cups would make it easier but one is fine if you place it in the center and are careful to pull the panel straight out.

    Mathew Hendry - Replica

    Why use suction cups when some finger nails will do the job nicely, though a plastic spudger might work too. Start at a top corner. Prize the glass away from the case and leave finger nails in. Move the other hand along the top edge and then with finger spread peel the screen cover away. Be careful not to twist plastic I suppose, but I've had no difficulties.

    damianwise - Replica

    3M Command Strip hooks in opposite corners is another fabulous option when suction cups are not available!

    Adam McCombs - Replica

    Tape works fine, here. Search for a YouTube video for a simple look-see.

    Richard - Replica

    I didn't have any suction cups, but my pencil sharpener (the kind that suctions to the table) worked great. I put it on the middle and lifted straight up.

    Lisa Mac - Replica

    For a quick 'n' dirty alternative "tool" for this step, take a look at IKEA's Stugvik suction hooks: they provide an excellent adjustable grip. Just used it to take apart an EMC2133. Cheers!

    hadderakk - Replica

    Suction cups usually available at Home Depot or Lowes, in the flooring section. (They're used to handle large ceramic & stone floor tiles.)

    Griff in Fairbanks - Replica

    • Estrarre delicatamente il pannello di vetro dall'iMac.

    • Il pannello di vetro presenta diversi piedini di posizionamento lungo il perimetro. Per evitare di staccare i piedini dal pannello di vetro, fare attenzione a rimuoverlo solo tirando verso l'alto.

    • Pulire con attenzione la parte interna del pannello di vetro e l'LCD, poiché la polvere e le impronte digitali saranno sgradevolmente visibili durante l'accensione del display.

    In order to avoid unnecessary smudges and what not I covered the LCD itself with some plastic wrap while doing the hard drive upgrade. When I reinstalled it all I needed to do was blow off a few dust particles.

    robgendreau - Replica

    While you are at it, it is worth cleaning out dust within the case to help with cooling - particularly around the fans and vents.

    For the screen I used a lens cleaner from my camera bag. These have very fine fibers and won't leave detritus.

    Mathew Hendry - Replica

    Note that the front glass panel is quite light. When reassembling I found it impossible to get the LCD free of dust with the computer lying on its back. I had success with standing the computer up, tilting the LCD down as far as it goes, holding the glass panel upright in front of the computer (about 1 foot away), lightly spraying both the LCD and the back side of the glass panel with compressed air, and then attaching the glass panel (with the computer upright). It took me 5 tries before it was completely clean of dust once the front glass was on.

    axel - Replica

    Although I do not advise it, you can substitute the suction cups with two strips of duct tape along the sides of the glass, with the tape attached to it's self in the middle of the strip

    Mike Hostetler - Replica

    • Rimuovere le 12 viti seguenti, che fissano la mascherina anteriore al case posteriore:

      • Otto viti Torx T8 da 13 mm.

      • Quattro viti Torx T8 da 25 mm.

    On the 24" EMC2134 there are 3 screw sizes: 6x13, 4x20 & 2x30mm, particular note should be made of their location.

    john31 - Replica

    Note for the less experienced.. the case is plastic and the metal coarse thread screws will easily cut a new thread in the hole if you don't line up the screw in the original thread. Do this a few times and the hole will be stripped and the screw no longer tightens.

    TIP:- place the screw in the hole and rotate BACKWARDS/counter clockwise (for RH threads) until you hear/feel it click/drop into the original thread then tighten the screw down. rotate it a couple times to get the feel of things. If there is any significant resistance you probably don't have the original thread.

    This trick also works on the fine metal thread screws and can help avoid cross threading them.

    HIH

    Richdave - Replica

    On the 24 inch iMac Model A1225 EMC #2134, the two T8 Torx screws in the middle are the longer of the four total bottom 25 mm screws. Just a note for reassembly.

    bhoffs - Replica

    This step is not really explained here with pictures. But you can check this same step in another guide to help you : iMac Intel 20" EMC 2266 Front Bezel Replacement

    thibault - Replica

    I'll echo Thibault's comment. This guide does not actually tell you when and/or how to remove the bezel! Click on the other guide he linked to see the photo and instructions.

    steven - Replica

    Make sure you're ram slot at the bottom is open to remove front frame bezel

    edgain99 - Replica

    I think you're missing this step: With the iMac lying on its back screen facing up, grasp the aluminum sides of the bezel and carefully pull it straight up. Then disconnect the microphone cable. Took me a while to figure it out.

    Richard Cacciato - Replica

    I found it helpful to use a few lids from spaghetti sauce jars to hold the different screws. I used a sharpie to mark the inside of the lid w/ location taken from or the step number from directions. Then I placed a small magnet under the lid to hold the screws inside the lid in case I accidentally jostle something on the table. Worked great! You can also use a magnetic knife bar to line up the lids in sequential for the project.

    tom - Replica

    I cut a hardwood block and drew the outline of the the iMac shape with the base as key. I then drew another two lines at 1/2” and 1” all around from the outline. This done I drilled holes for each screw (12 Outer securing the front bezel to the rear case , and 8 Inner screws securing the display panel to the rear case ). That way I don’t lose any or get them mixed up.

    jmadams - Replica

    • Scollegare il connettore del cavo del microfono, rimuovendo il nastro secondo necessità.

    • Affinché la mascherina anteriore sia posizionata correttamente, verificare di aver inserito il connettore nello spazio vuoto accanto alla scheda della fotocamera.

    I avoided this step by just flipping the housing over and having it lay flat on the table. The tape on mine was on really tight, and I risking ripping the wires out of the connector if I messed with it (I didn't have some really small scissors which might have helped removing it). I would suggest either securing the body of the iMac and the housing to the table you're working on, or somehow securing the housing to the body, so that it doesn't move around accidentally, since it's only hanging on by a very thin wire at that point.

    robgendreau - Replica

    ^^^ This! This tutorial should be amended for this step. Much, much easier and less damage-prone.

    (There really oughta be a step addressing the removal of the bezel as well.)

    cklarson -

    Make sure you do not pull this apart by the wires. Have a firm grasp on the plastic parts. Do not force back together. It only goes back together one way. Also, it is crucial when placing the aluminum bezel back in place that this wire is out of the way. It often gets in the way and is easily damaged.

    Kyle Freeman - Replica

    CAUTION - To disconnect the cable, you'll need to support the bezel while you carefully extract slack microphone cable which is tightly tucked within the iMac. (I didn't have this guide's 'notes on' and missed robgendreau's warning - then inadvertently shifted the bezel and busted my microphone cable in this step.)

    dagnew - Replica

    Don't forget to pull the microphone cord out before you put the panel back on. Otherwise you will have to go back and remove screws to find that microphone cord

    Melvin Hines - Replica

    As robgendreau says, avoid this whole step by opening the bezel and laying it upside down above the iMac, still connected by the mic cord, just carefully. Then replace the battery, suck/blow out your dust, and carefully rotate the front bezel back over the iMac from where you removed it. No cord manipulation or damage at all!

    recmsoj - Replica

    • Estrarre il connettore del sensore temperatura dell'LCD direttamente dal connettore sulla scheda logica.

    • Se occorre, deviare il cavo del sensore temperatura dell'LCD dalla parte posteriore della scheda logica.

    • Quando rimuovi il pannello LCD, controlla la disposizione del cavo del controllo temperatura del display. Nel rimontare lo schermo, assicurati che questo cavo non blocchi una delle viti inferiori di fissaggio della cornice anteriore.

    This was the most confusing step, because the video shows MJ just tilting the monitor open, and I had a ribbon cable hooked up to it. Finally figured out that the ribbon cable was connected to the LCD temp sensor cable, and it was neatly tucked under the adjacent fan. Had to pull it pretty hard to get it out from under the fan, and then could tilt the LCD. Instructions are not completely clear about this, only that you may have to reroute the cable around the motherboard.

    d3nn151950 - Replica

    I agree, there is no sign of how to remove the bezel (it took me several minutes to understand it was even the bezel that came off here) in these steps (in all the guides for this model, in fact). On step 4 says remove the LCD screws, and suddenly step 6 shows innards and fans etc - !! - What about showing the bezel being removed here - super confusing and not up to usual ifixit high standards.

    hutchwilco - Replica

    If you rush through the reassembly, it's very easy to miss reconnecting the LCD Temp Display cable. I just did it and one of the fans came on full-speed and stayed there through a new macOS install. Did a Google search and found mention of this symptom. At first I was thinking I switched one or more of the inverter cables but this guide shows that this is not a problem. Once I reviewed this step, the problem was obvious as was the solution. Thanks again, iFixit, for saving my nappy behind.

    barryjaylevine - Replica

    I can speak from experience, this cable’s a pain. It came out of where I tucked it and snuck behind one of the bottom screws, which pierced it during reassembly, afterward it would not boot properly. It’ll boot without the cable plugged in, but the fan runs near max. I’m glad it can at least be used while I wait for the replacement cable to ship. What a weird (lazy) design choice from Apple.

    Ian Sprenkle - Replica

    • Rimuovere le due viti Torx T6 da 5,3 mm che fissano il cavo dati del display alla scheda logica.

    My Torx 6 driver purchased from ifixit didn't fit the screws well and potentially would strip them. Had to purchase a better driver to fit better in order to loosen these screws.

    kakisback - Replica

    reinstalling these screws requires extra care to be sure you don't drop it and loose it under any of the other components.

    kakisback - Replica

    Make sure not to drop the screws.

    ulan - Replica

    Removing these screws was the most difficult part of the whole job. They were tight and felt as if the heads were about to chew up. I had to press really hard and jerk the screwdriver counter clockwise to loosen them. Despite others' warnings, I managed to drop a screw when reinserting.

    kevinp - Replica

    The only tool I needed to buy was the T6 Star Bit - the first auto store I went to had it. These screws are tiny so you have to be careful not to drop them!

    James Miles - Replica

    When reinstalling these tiny screws, consider placing the iMac upright. That way when you (inevitably) drop these tiny screws, you don't lose them in the guts of the computer where they are likely to fall into a fan.

    stown1211 - Replica

    Yes, this step is very difficult. I finally used a magnet to magnetize the torx driver, and that helped immensely...however, that was AFTER I lost the right one inside the computer. You really only need one screw to reattach the monitor connector, however.

    d3nn151950 - Replica

    Argh! I dropped my right screw into the bowels of the iMac. I can't find it anywhere and am loath to leave it rattling around as well as to tear down the machine any further.

    steven macfarlane - Replica

    Well, I followed the instructions for right-speaker removal and optical drive fan removal and still couldn't find the right screw. I couldn't hear it rattle either so figured it was wedged somewhere. Using an inspection mirror and flashlight, I finally found it. It had fallen down and wedged between the PCB and the plastic housing (below the ports). I was able to slide it toward the right until it came to the void left by the right speaker where it fell out into my hand.

    steven macfarlane -

    It's true, these were super tight. I only had a T5 which worked on the first screw, but the second wouldn't budge. Ended up filing the tip off the T5 bit - presto! - instant T6.

    marcintosh - Replica

    I Think the real screw size is 3.5 mm T6 Torx, not 5.3 mm

    raul - Replica

    Dropped those little bastards like 2-3 times into the deeps of my iMac. The right one is really tricky. If you drop it: better get yourself very thin tweezers and gently shake your mac. :(

    Popelnase - Replica

    Note that just below where you are working is the PRAM battery. If you have never replaced this, now is a good time so you won't have to open the machine up again in the near future. The battery is a CR2032.

    mattgauntt - Replica

    Taking all the warnings into account about losing these tiny screws, during removal and replacement I held onto the screws tightly with a very fine needle nose tweezer. Fortunately I managed not to lose them either out or in. I highly recommend using a small gripper during this step.

    recmsoj - Replica

    This step together with step 8 can be avoided. Leave this cable alone. You will have plenty of space to lift the LCD and rest it against a wall or any other object. Again...

    1) don't waste your time if you know what you are doing

    2) don't complicate things and remove unecessary cables.

    Scorps - Replica

    This is true. There's plenty of space to work without taking the whole LCD out, either by resting it on your head, having someone hold it, or propping it on something. This makes steps 7, 8, and 10 unnecessary.

    hillman -

    While you have the case open this would be a good time to replace the PRAM battery and carefully clean the fan and interior of the case with Q-tips / compressed air.

    John Fisk - Replica

    These screws are Torx 7 - at least that was what

    I used on them and got a prefect tight fit ... .

    Patrik Albin - Replica

    torx 6 didn't do it, needed torx 7

    nielsdolieslager - Replica

    Torx7 did NOT work for me. Torx6 did.

    pdienstm - Replica

    • Utilizzare la linguetta nera per estrarre il connettore del cavo dati del display dalla scheda logica.

    Aggiungi Commento

    • Rimuovere le otto viti Torx T8 da 12 mm che fissano il pannello del display al case posteriore.

    • Sollevare il pannello del display dal bordo sinistro e ruotarlo verso il bordo destro dell'iMac.

    I was able to disconnect the two connectors to the front easily. With those off, I just rotated the LCD out of the way to expose the hard drive. Again, make sure it's stabilized if you do this so that when you yank on something else you don't send it flying.

    robgendreau - Replica

    I did a HD replacement on my 24 inch iMac. It's basically the same, but it does not have disconnectable invertercables. Instead, there's just one cable that's can't be disconnected. It sits too tight to rotate the display to the degree that you can lean it against something, so the only way to get the job done was to call in an extra set of hands to hold the display while I took out the hard drive.

    Marijn - Replica

    On the 2134 model, I found that the LCD must be lifted from the RIGHT (not the left as per the 2133 guide) - the connector wires are covered in nylon housing and it's way easier just having someone hold the LCD vertical whilst you replace the HDD, unless you have small fingers and feel like disconnecting completely ...

    simon - Replica

    During reassembly, make sure that the data and temperature cables will reach their sockets before inserting the eight screws.

    kevinp - Replica

    • Mentre il pannello del display è sollevato, scollegare i quattro cavi dell'inverter.

    • Durante la reinstallazione, posizionare i quattro connettori dei cavi dell'inverter negli spazi vuoti fra i componenti collegati al pannello posteriore per garantire il corretto allineamento del pannello del display.

    • Durante il riassemblaggio, è possibile inserire i cavi dell'inverter nei rispettivi connettori femmina in qualsiasi ordine.

    • Se devi sostituire il disco fisso e hai un paio di mani supplementari, puoi accedere al disco e rimuoverlo senza scollegare nulla tranne i connettori della temperatura dell'LCD e quella del display come al passo precedente con l'LCD sollevato.

    Make sure to not squeeze the inverter-cables between the superdrive and the display when putting the display back on !

    epzzky - Replica

    This was the only step different for my 2134 - it is just one cable that connects to the monitor - disconnect the monitor end rather than the motherboard side.

    Jim Laredo - Replica

    There is no need to discnnect the inverter cables if display is positioned against a wall or something of the sort. Make sure it doesn't tumble over !!!

    info5825 - Replica

    For 24" iMacs, a single power cable is attached on the left side of the screen. To remove the cable, lift the screen from the right side and rotate it to the left. Remove the black plastic protector on the back of the screen and disconnect the cable.

    Matt Stichnoth - Replica

    Make sure you squeeze the two ends of the inverter cable together firmly - if not you will get yellow areas on your screen. One of my cables had not quite been clicked together, and I had to unscrew everything all over again.

    Philip - Replica

    So does it matter which ones are connected to which?

    That is, at each end there are two connectors (one pink/black the other light blue/dark blue on the "male" side). The "female side appear identical. Does it matter if the pink/black "male" one is connected to the wrong "female" one?

    Mark Gibson - Replica

    Mark, did you ever get an answer about the connectors?

    Mike -

    Agreed this is an unspecified issue and i'm surprised it's not covered? Did everyone else just guess?

    kainatticus -

    Managed to avoid this step just lifting the lcd panel and holding it with my... head ;)

    Antonio Bernardini - Replica

    I'm trying to find some information on replacing the power supply temperature sensor cable. Mine broke during removal of a bad power supply.

    Mike Overholt - Replica

    found out that taking the 2 inverter cables (top right corner underneath LCD) and mixing them will not work. I got beeping sound. So...you really need to mark the 2 white sockets with P (pink) and B (for light blue-gray color). Then everything will come out smoothly. Again... inserting the 2 inverter cable sets into the right socket DOES MATTER.

    Scorps - Replica

    Re: Scorps comment above - I got the “beeping” too. Does anyone know how to resolve it, i.e. identify which goes with which? Other than trying every combination?

    mchlgrblsk - Replica

    My screen is just Grey? anyone else have this happen?

    Michael McGuire - Replica

    After replacing iMac’s HDD with a new one I’ve got white screen with vertical black and bluish bands on the left side and two horizontal lines dividing the display into three equal parts (see the image). Any idea what that might be?

    Andrey - Replica

    • Se occorre, rimuovere i pezzi di nastro che fissano i cavi del sensore termico dell'unità ottica o del disco rigido all'iMac.

    Aggiungi Commento

    • Scollegare il connettore del sensore termico dell'unità ottica dalla scheda logica, estraendolo verso la parte superiore dell'iMac.

    • Durante la rimozione del connettore, può essere utile premere con i pollici le linguette sui lati del connettore verso la parte superiore dell'iMac.

    Aggiungi Commento

    • Rimuovere le due viti Torx T10 da 7 mm a passo fine che fissano l'unità ottica al case posteriore.

    Aggiungi Commento

    • Sollevare l'estremità libera dell'unità ottica, leggermente fuori dal case posteriore.

    • Rimuovere le due viti Torx T6 da 3,5 mm che fissano il connettore dell'unità ottica a quest'ultima.

    Aggiungi Commento

    • Inserire l'estremità piatta di un inseritore fra il connettore dell'unità ottica e il corpo di quest'ultima.

    • Ruotare l'inseritore per separare il connettore dall'unità ottica.

    • Potrebbe essere necessario lavorare alternativamente sui lati del connettore fino alla sua disconnessione.

    Aggiungi Commento

    • Sollevare l'unità ottica dal case posteriore e tirarla dal lato del case posteriore stesso per liberare la striscia di nastro EMI che aderisce alla superficie.

    • Il sensore termico dell'unità ottica è ancora collegato sul lato inferiore dell'unità stessa.

    Aggiungi Commento

    • Se necessario, rimuovi la porzione di nastro in schiuma che copre il sensore termico dell'unità ottica.

    • Per rimuovere il sensore termico dell'unità ottica, utilizza la punta di uno spudger per sollevare l'aletta centrale della staffa del sensore termico, applicando una leggera tensione al cavo del sensore.

    • Se il sensore termico è incastrato nell'unità ottica, vai al passo successivo.

    Aggiungi Commento

    • Con l'estremità piatta di uno spudger, rimuovi la staffa del sensore termico dell'unità ottica dall'adesivo che la fissa all'unità stessa.

    • Qualora l'adesivo si sporcasse o non aderisse alla nuova unità ottica, posiziona un pezzo di nastro biadesivo sotto le due linguette semicircolari della staffa del sensore termico.

    Aggiungi Commento

    • Usando uno spudger, rimuovi la piccola parte di schiuma EMI dal lato inferiore dell'unità ottica.

    • Non dimenticare che deve essere trasferita alla nuova unità ottica.

    Aggiungi Commento

    • Rimuovere le due viti Torx T10 da 6,5 mm da entrambi i lati dell'unità ottica, per un totale di quattro viti.

    Aggiungi Commento

    • Sollevare la striscia di nastro EMI dall'unità ottica.

    • Non dimenticare che deve essere trasferita alla nuova unità ottica.

    Aggiungi Commento

    • Ruotare leggermente la staffa dell'unità ottica, allontanandola dall'unità stessa.

    • Estrarre la staffa dall'unità ottica dall'estremità aperta di quest'ultima, prestando attenzione a non fare incastrare le linguette.

    • Nel caso in cui sia presente un disco o altri elementi bloccati dentro l'unità ottica, consultare questa guida per risolvere il problema.

    If installing an optical drive that is not identical to the OEM AD-5630A model, two plastic alignment nubs must be removed from the black plastic optical drive bracket. If these nubs are not removed they will interfere with the insert and eject mechanism. If installing the AD-5630A optical drive, these nubs do not need to be removed.

    teachinkids - Replica

    • Rimuovere le tre viti con testa a croce n. 0 da 3 mm dal case dell'alloggiamento ottico.

    Hello, is the sata & power cabla from the mac can directly feet inside the SSD?

    Roman Quenin - Replica

    plug in the back of the ssd

    Roman Quenin -

    I'm trying to find out as well. I read elsewhere you need something like this without the bracket: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0056OB...

    However I have NOT confirmed this.

    Allen Borza -

    If I understand you correctly; the enclosure allows you to use the existing iMac optical cable. Also the enclosure allows for a safe fitting of the optical drive. In my newer machine I had to double side tape the SSD to the back of the iMac and buy a special cable. Note: this was not an optical drive replacement scenario or I would have done exactly as this tutorial suggests.

    EkDor - Replica

    I bought another caddy, not the one from the description. i had to extract the plastic adaptor from the optical drive and put in on the new caddy 12,7mm

    Cristian Pizarro - Replica

    The SDD caddy I purchased was 22 pin SATA both inside and outside so that the optical drive cable (13 pin) would not fit. Does anyone know where I can find a SDD caddy with 13 pin SATA outside for the optical cable and 22 pin SATA inside for the SDD?

    benja.mcg - Replica

    • A partire dal bordo sinistro, aprire delicatamente il case dell'alloggiamento ottico.

    • Continuare ad aprire le due metà del case fino a separarle.

    This is the 12.7mm caddy.. but, the caddy 9.5 mm fit fine as well? or it doesn't fit on imac mid 2010

    Cristian Pizarro - Replica

    • Rimuovere le due viti con testa a croce n. 0 da 3 mm che fissano la mascherina al case dell'alloggiamento ottico.

    Aggiungi Commento

    • Sollevare la mascherina in plastica nera dal case dell'alloggiamento ottico.

      • La mascherina e le due viti con testa a croce che la fissavano non saranno più necessarie. Conservare questi componenti nel caso si intendesse reinserire la mascherina nel case.

    • Riassemblare il case dell'unità ottica senza la mascherina, riutilizzando le tre viti con testa a croce da 3 mm originali per preservarne l'integrità.

    Just curious, why is it necessary to remove this black plastic faceplate from the enclosure? It doesn't appear to serve any function in or out of the enclosure.

    Nic Johnson - Replica

    Maybe because it would interfere with the bracket you have to put back on in step 21?

    Jeff Dickson -

    So I'm confused about the Optical Drive Bracket, the one that originally held the DVD-CD drive. I had an awful time remounting the kit into that bracket as the screws didn't line up correctly. I finally got everything to fit, less one of the four holding screws. Did anyone else experience this problem? I would have expected a much better alignment for this assembly considering the quality of the iFixIt site.

    For the record, the upgrade went fine with a SanDisk Extreme II 480GB SSD, but that one step was next to impossible, and not covered in any detail by the instructions.

    Ron Lockhart - Replica

    Yep, I had exactly the same problem. The alignment was way off.

    olafgoy -

    My kit also did not line up correctly. I had to put all four screws in at an angle cross-threaded to mount the unit.

    Kevo -

    Same here. managed to get two screws in at a decent angle on one side and couldn't get the others in. Felt solid enough once I'd screwed the original ODD casing back onto the iMac.

    Monkeyrebirth -

    I had the same alignment problem, too. I ended up removing the rubber grommets from the plastic enclosure, widening the holes with a small file, then replacing the grommets. All four screws went in, but not in perfect alignment. Should be ok, though.

    nickmalmquist -

    Another possibility is the part has been designed to be used with different types of iMac and some utilise this component. In this case it apparently doesn't.

    EkDor - Replica

    I bought a different enclosure than the one recommended ($18 instead of $39) and it came with new screws because the old screws were too big to fit in the holes for the new enclosure.

    Keith Mewis - Replica

    Hi. Which enclosure did you buy? link please.

    Alex -

    Where did you get the alternative enclosure from?

    Walter Poole -

    I completed this guide last night on my iMac and it all worked great until I got to step 26 and none of the holes on the 12.7 mm PATA Optical Bay SATA Hard Drive Enclosure lined up with the black plastic faceplate. Just like what is being commented on by previous fixers, I could only get 2 screws on one side of the enclosure in, but they were crooked and unable to screw in all the way. It was crude, but it worked.

    The rest of this guide works flawlessly. This is a great site!

    Marc - Replica

    • Rimuovere il posizionatore di plastica dal case del disco rigido dell'alloggiamento ottico, premendo una delle clip poste lateralmente e sollevandolo dal case.

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    • Verificare che i connettori del disco rigido siano rivolti verso il basso prima di posizionarlo nel case.

    • Posizionare il disco rigido delicatamente nell'apposito slot del case.

    • Tenendo saldamente il case in posizione con una mano, premere il disco rigido nei connettori del case con l'altra.

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    • Una volta agganciato il disco rigido, reinserire il posizionatore di plastica tenendo il disco premuto contro la parte inferiore del case.

    • Ricollegare tutti i cavi rimossi dall'unità ottica originale nel case dell'alloggiamento ottico.

    Why no mention of attaching the new hard drive to the Optical Drive Enclosure using the enclosed phillips screws?

    Once you have securely inserted the new hard drive into the Optical Drive Enclosure and replaced the plastic positioner you should attach the drive to the enclosure using two of the provided phillips screws. Two holes on the underside of the enclosure should align with two attachment holes on the underside of the drive.

    nickmalmquist - Replica

    Do you need a sata cable to connect the new drive to the board or does it connect via the optical drive cable that we disconnected earlier?

    Erik Sawaya - Replica

    It does connect to the optical drive cable but if you don't use the optical bay enclosure you'll need a 13 pins to 22 pins sata adaptor (and some tape!)

    The sata cable for the optical drive has 6 + 7 pins while ssd and hhd have 15 + 7 pins

    Graziano Nora - Replica

    Can someone please explain why you need to remove the black plastic faceplate  from the optical bay enclosure. It is designed to receive the standard SSD. What is gained from removing a part of it?

    Peter Bull - Replica

Conclusione

Per riassemblare il dispositivo, seguire le istruzioni in ordine inverso a partire dal passaggio 23

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my iMac2008early dvdrom is ***PATA***!!!!!!

plz fix you page!!!

Pak Ho Leung - Replica

I'd sound a caution before replacing the optical drive with anything else if it's on PATA. It'll be slow... Better using an external enclosure and FW800.

markstoter - Replica

I have an iMac early 2008. Do you recommended to replace the optical super drive super with an SSD?

Fabio ABATAR - Replica

Cool. It worked nicely. I replaced the superdrive with an SSD. As expected, due to the slow PATA connection, speed increase is not as dramatic as one would expect with a SATA.

arthurgruber - Replica

i followed this guide but i replaced original 3,5 hard drive with ssd and i replace optical drive (PATA) with a 2,5 hard drive 500gb 7200 rpm sata with an adapter bay

and made fusion drive, now iMac start in 15 seconds and it come back to life

MacAlle - Replica

I've removed a faulty DVD drive, with temp sensor cable, pending replacement with an HDD/SDD... now the fan is running at full speed. I guess because it can't detect the drive. Should I disconnect the fan? Great guide by the way... !

graemeosborn - Replica

ciao, come hai risolto?

mezarecchia -

I discovered the hard way that the optical drive was IDE. So now require a different caddy to proceed any further. Fortunately noticed this as I disconnected the optical drive. So back together again until the new caddy arrives…

Neil Moriarty - Replica

There seems to be some confusion about whether this is worth doing. I have a mid-2007 iMac7,1 (20” 2.0) and I already swapped in a 1TB SSHD into the main drive, but still quite slow so was thinking of adding a small (120GB) SSD as the boot drive in the DVD bay. But this is the second comment about the PATA interface being slow. Is this the same as IDE? Can’t imagine the mid-2007 has a faster DVD than the early 2008? Help appreciated. Andy

Andy - Replica

Hi there,

Just wanted to state a few things for anyone who’s about to follow this guide. The optical drive for the 2133 iMac is a PATA (IDE) optical drive which has two disadvantages:

1. The HDD caddy you may have order may be SATA instead of PATA, meaning it has a different connector and won’t fit. Ordering a PATA drive shouldn’t be expensive, I ordered mine from China and it worked great.

2. Any SSD you put in the optical drive bay will be massively slowed down by the limitation of IDE/PATA speeds. Speed-wise, it’s much better to put a 2.5” regular hard drive in the optical drive and put an SSD in a 2.5” to 3.5” bracket in the original hard drive’s spot. The original HDD is connected through a SATA cable, and therefore has a faster connection to the motherboard.

Jasper Cardol - Replica

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