Difficoltà
Moderato
Passi
22
Tempo Necessario
30 minuti - 2 ore
- Lower Case 2 passi
- Battery Connection 2 passi
- Optical Drive 11 passi
- Optical Drive 1 passo
- Dual Hard Drive 6 passi
Guida In Evidenza
Questa guida è stata giudicata eccezionalmente ben fatta dallo staff iFixit.
Introduzione
There are many benefits to adding a second hard drive to your laptop such as improved speeds, greater storage space, and less heartache when installing new software. Use this guide to install one using our optical bay hard drive enclosure.
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Remove the following ten screws:
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Three 14.4 mm Phillips #00 screws
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Three 3.5 mm Phillips #00 screws
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Four 3.5 mm shouldered Phillips #00 screws
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Use your fingers to pry the lower case away from the body of the MacBook near the vent.
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Remove the lower case.
Bonjour, alors cela va dépendre du modèle de MacBook Pro Retina concerné. Par exemple, si vous avez un 13 pouces, allez consulter cette page MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Repair et sélectionnez-y votre modèle. Les Retina 15 pouces se trouvent ici MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Repair. Sinon cet outil https://fr.ifixit.com/info/ID-your-Mac (pour l’instant seulement disponible en anglais) vous aide à identifier quel modèle vous avez et vous redirige vers la page de votre appareil, où vous trouverez le tutoriel correspondant à votre Retina. Bonne réparation !
Merhaba, trackpad değişimi ve ayarlaması için tornavidaya ihtiyacım var, bu konuda yardımcı olabilir misiniz acaba? Ne tür bir tornavidaya ihtiyacım var ve nereden bulabilirim acaba?
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Use the edge of a spudger to pry the battery connector upwards from its socket on the logic board.
yes - as with disassembly of any electronic component you have to remove any power source. You don't want to accidentally turn the Mac on
khull -
Sooo the track pad is under the battery...you kind of have to remove it to get to the track pad.
This step is not really required. Apple does not recommend it.
My Battery does not get recognized after i disconnected it, screw this site!
Did you properly ground yourself to the case before putting the spudger to the connector/logic board? Did you use a spudger or something else that is non conductive...or did you use a flat blade metal screw driver instead and compound your error by not grounding yourself before touching the logic board? All kinds of variables here but the bottom line is iFixit provided you a guide to fix your computer. Lots of others have followed this guide without trouble. Your battery issues are not their fault. They did say this guide was moderate difficulty...maybe it's just a little beyond your skill level. We should all know our limits!
Don't know what the deal is with the battery, but this IS a necessary step to keep from frying the logic Board if you accidentally touch something and short it out. I did this step every time during my troubleshooting and The battery was ALWAYS recognized by the system the next time I turned the MBP on. So be safe and don't fry your logic board in the process...
Prying the battery connector off does not take much force. I did exactly what the guide suggested (walked it off back and forth) with the spudger without any problems. Just be very gentle, much like with anything inside laptops, they are very fragile and need to be worked with carefully. A+ instructions, battery replacement was a success.
Installed/upgraded 4gb RAM to the system maximum 16gb and installed a 500 gb SSD today....DID NOT disconnect the battery cable....no issues at all when I powered back up. Then did a clean install of OSX Yosemite....next I used a time machine backup to put all my stuff back on the new HD. From start to finish it took about 4 hours. Macbook boots up right at 16 seconds now.
Easiest to use two spudgers, one on each short end, I found.
Its a lot easier and safer (corner wise) to pry it using the flat side of the black spudger directly in front of the connector (don't go/use the corners) very easily you will be able to pry it further by inserting the spudger into a better and thicker plastic section of the connector
DON'T remove the Battery Cable, you risk the battery NOT being recognised when you start the Mac up again, or breaking it!! More to the point, APPLE DOES NOT RECOMMEND THIS, so don't do it! I Installed 2x 8GB ( 16Gb total) of Crucial Mac RAM at 1333Mhz for my Late 2011 MacBook Pro, and it works beautifully, fully recognised and working well. I followed these instructions, but as Apple didnt recommend disconnecting the battery, I skipped this step, and as well as taking less time, nothing was damaged or broken, and everything works perfectly!!! Just make sure that you DISCHARGE ALL STATIC ELECTRICITY FROM YOUR HANDS, by touching a metal surface in the Mac. Apple recommends the edge of the Optical Disk Drive ( Big silver thing ) before touching any parts. Also, Take care removing the RAM out of its packet, DO NOT touch the Gold connectors, and hold the RAM by the edges. Finally, be PATIENT, GENTLE and it should all go perfectly. I managed it first time, with no technical ability, so follow my advice. Good luck!
Switch off your Mac and continue without disconnecting the battery. Don't know how it will switch on by itself.
This comment made me think that disconnecting the battery was no point at all, because really - how would the computer be able to switch on by it self. So... I had my mac flipped around and was fiddling with the last part of the guide when I all of a sudden hear the start up sound! Don't know how and why it did. I turned it around with it guts open and guts hanging out. Screen was on. I forced it to shut down by keeping the power button down. Turned it back and first thing removed the battery cord.
Luckily the computer started up just like normal. But hearing that sound was just too scary.
BTW I had been cautious to de static myself multiple times.
wassberg -
Definitely do this step. It's an easy disconnect anyway and also easy to reconnect later.
I removed the battery cable for the repair. When I plugged in the MagSafe adapter after the repair, the Mac turned on automatically without pressing the power button and I was a bit worried, but after a restart everything worked fine again. I did have to reset date and time in Preferences. The battery was recognized OK.
Okey, I skipped this battery disconnection part. Did not do anything like this before in my life, changing the cable was super easy!
The official Apple guide to replacing the RAM says nothing about disconnecting the battery but it does recommend touching metal inside to discharge static. https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT201165
I always do this when working on MacBooks (over ten years) and it never caused an issue. Don’t worry about this step as removal of the battery connector is simple. This particular connector is pretty much goof-proof as it won’t break. I’m fairly aggressive and just pop it off whenever I’m working on the Macbook Pro.
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Bend the battery cable slightly away from its socket on the logic board so it does not accidentally connect itself while you work.
What are the changes of it broke when i bend it?, after i disconect it does not work anymore
The guide worked perfectly, as it has in the past (our family has three Mid-2012 Macbook Pros that have been separately upgraded with RAM and SSD).
The PH00 screwdriver fit perfectly.
One note on getting the screws to seat easily and thread perfectly...always turn them gently a couple turns to the left (CCW or Anti-Clockwise) until you hear a small click. That's where the threads will grab. Works with any screw, but when threads are fine, this will help ensure that the screw is at the correct angle and will grab and seat perfectly.
Great guides. Thanks!
Got RAM in but only one slot is working and now I can't remove! The RAM won't pop up like before and tabs don't seem to do anything. Please advise.
I put some tape between the connector and socket while working on the drive.
That's a good tip
Anrothan -
One other note: The screw heads fit flush with the curvature of the case -- which means that they aren't exactly horizontal. In other words, they aren't perpendicular to the table that the computer is resting on. Don't try to force them straight in vertically, because you'll risk cross-threading them. (nearly ruined one screw hole myself!)
does the battery connection need to be removed? I only ask as other videos etc have not shown this step.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the AirPort/Bluetooth ribbon cable connector up from its socket on the logic board.
N.B! Thank you very much all you here on iFixit! Some IMPORTANT notes. Be very careful BEFORE prying the connectors up and down. They are very fragile and the picture could actually be seen as showing a bending loading in their weakest direction, AROUND its slender axis. The connector is slender and inserted on the logic board, so the gentle "walking" up and down should be done ALONG their slender direction and WITHOUT touching the adjacent connectors. If bending is done around its axis the soldering comes apart and the cable is done and gone. Just happened. These flat cables are one of the weakest design spots in my experience. They are a major time, money and geist consuming reason for malfunction like Wi-Fi connection problems, HDD, SSD not found internally but externally from USB issues et al being found on different forums. Thanks again and again.
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Carefully pull the camera cable out of its socket on the logic board.
"Carefully pull the camera cable out of its socket on the logic board."
I followed these instructions to the letter, heeding the warning to pull vertically.
The camera cable broke at the connector.
The connector was pretty tight in the socket. Had to use a tiny screw-driver to free it. There was no way simply pulling would have worked.
A quick google of "macbook pro camera cable broken" shows that this has happened to many other people, and been reported to ifixit. But no mention in the instructions. Disappointing.
The MBP no longer boots. The cable is soldered to the LCD, which must be replaced. $500?
Someone, PLEASE fix the instructions. It looks like many people have been hit by this.
Actually it says to pull parallel away from the board, so horizontally. It never said vertically and actually warns against pulling verticaly.
I've replaced 4 dvd's with hdd's already, in different macbooks, so wasn't too fussed about #5. However; this time I broke the camera connector cable :(
The connector is stil in it's socket, and I can't get it out no matter what I try. My guess is that some of the glue that connects the socket to the logic board, got into the socket as well. Prying with a small screwdriver, pulling with a pair of tweezers... nothing works. And this mbp belongs to a friend who uses his camera a lot for skyping...
I hope we're still friends after I tell him.
The thing is; I think it might be possible to do the whole operation with that cable still in its sockets; if you pull the rest of the cable free of the fingers, you can probably fold it out of the way when you lift the dvd out.
This is Sooo Unnecessary!! don't do it!
I actually found it necessary to do this step. If not done you can rip chord, if you read the wording carefully and do as it says it should not break.
After having initially skipped this step, I finally followed it. I couldn't find a way to move the airport / bluetooth assembly away otherwise, and in the end it's a pain to put the small screws back in. Didn't have any trouble unplugging the camera cable, but it is indeed scary because it looks pretty fragile.
I only skipped step 8, as it didn't seem necessary.
I also broke my camera cable!!! And I just realized that removing that lovely cable was not necessary for the following steps!!! Thank you!
I dont know how to fix this problem and I asked it in this question: How can I fix broken camera cable
Please, help...
I omitted this step successfully
I skipped this step, but did step 8.
There was no way I was doing this step -- just remember that the cable is still plugged in, and work VERY CAREFULLY.
Technic Mender, he is talking about Step 11. It says upward. Most untouched MBP's have a piece of sticky foam over the right subwoofer connection to the logic board, so you can't see how it is really supposed to come out but that step says pull upward. Ripped my right subwoofer connection straight from the logic board. Thanks iFixit, Step 11 has an unnecessary line that costs me money. You pull it laterally, not up.
I have a blog post on my experience of performing the upgrade with a simple diagram showing how to skip step 6, 7, 8 and 11. (http://www.ocyedwin.com/?p=190)
I skipped this step complete . There is space enough in order to manipulate stuff without unplugging theses cables.
I did this successfully, but I don't remember which way the contacts came out. Does the side with more gold face up or down?
Just did the replacement of Optidrive with my original HDD (which I had earlier replaced with a Samsung EVO 500 GB drive - using ifixit's method). I omitted steps 6,7,8 and 11. The upper left side screw of the OptiDrive is deeply placed - a magnetic screwdriver with a long thin shaft would be essential to remove and especially, to replace it.
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Carefully move the AirPort/Bluetooth ribbon cable out of the way as you peel the camera cable off the adhesive securing it to the subwoofer and the AirPort/Bluetooth bracket.
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De-route the camera cable out from under the retaining finger molded into the AirPort/Bluetooth bracket.
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Use the tip of a spudger to pry the antenna connector closest to the logic board up from its socket on the AirPort/Bluetooth board.
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De-route the antenna cable from under the finger molded into the AirPort/Bluetooth bracket.
I omitted this step too. It's not necessary.
Based on the advice above, I tried to skip this step. Unfortunately, the way the wire wraps around the plastic caused it to break underneath when I lifted the optical drive out, and now I have another broken part.
Yu can easily skip the step, just make sure you take care when removing/put away the AirPort/BT assembly in the next step, be gentle.
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Remove the following five screws:
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Two 10.3 mm Phillips screws
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Two 3.1 mm Phillips screws
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One 5 mm Phillips screw
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Note the position of the little grounding rings when removing the red (10mm) screws. You'll have to make sure to re-seat them when reassembling!
You are so right about making sure to put back the two metal rings when you screw back the two (red) 10.3mm screws. I missed putting back one of the rings and read your comment after I had installed the drive and closed the macbook. Everything was working fine, but I went back to open it an leave it just as it was, with both metal (one with a plastic/cloth material around it) plates/rings attached properly. So it is very important to make sure you put those two 10.3 mm screws back with the plates/rings that they hold, exactly as they were before you put it apart.
pachis2 -
No idea how I'm supposed to put back the "grounding rings". Anybody?
As far as the grounding ring goes, it slips back over the screw hole, be patient and gentle. You may have to finagle the airport board under it first and then lay the board flat and reattach the subwoofer. I will see if I can add a pic in the near future. But that the best way to describe it.
Another comment on step nine I have is about the subwoofer. In my case the screw hole that is for the "One 5 mm Phillips screw" (its currently circled in yellow) was broken [Mind you I have never dropped this computer so it came that way from apple. So be carful, it may be fragile and need some repair. Apple really needs to have better quality control on parts like this .(also they won't care that it was that way, they didn't like that I opened the computer, so even though its their fault, I should never have known and therefore they shouldn't be held responsible in their mind.) This may not void warranty as an over all upgrade, but any parts 'broken' or in my case 'found broken' during the fix are not covered any longer. So just be aware of this possible defect. Happy fixing.
i managed to strip two of the 3 #00 Phillips screws on this step, so im going to try and explain how i removed them.
i got a ratchet that is about 5" long, and a 1/4" socket that fit the bits in the 54 bit driver kit
there are all of the parts that you need in that kit to connect it to the ratchet
with this tool of torque i dropped down a size and use the #000 Phillips bit
i pressed good and hard, and watched the head. if it didnt turn i pressed harder
one screw was the worst and the #000 didnt work on it, just stripped it further
so i threw the j000 on the end and gave it a go
the shaper point on the j000 seemed to do the job
i was on the verge of JB Welding bits to them and trying that
but i didnt need to
This is the most difficult step while resembling. Take special care of the 2 10.3 Phillips screws tabs positions in order to resemble as original.
After completing this step during reassembly, it may help to loosen the screw just right of the rightmost red 10.3 mm screw. Then, make sure the metal plate attached to that screw fits inside the small cut-away in the outer body. I tends to run just over it, causing problems later when screwing the lower case back onto the computer.
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Pull the AirPort/Bluetooth assembly and the Subwoofer upward near the center of the side of the optical drive until they clear each other.
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Move the AirPort/Bluetooth assembly and the subwoofer away from the top of the optical drive.
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Pull the right speaker/subwoofer cable out from under the retaining finger near the side of the optical drive.
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Pull the right speaker/subwoofer cable upward to disconnect it from the logic board.
I removed it and after reassemble it looks like the speaker has no bass.
It also happened to me :( Did you solve it out?
I skipped the step about disconnecting the speaker cable. No problem.
Skipped, no problem
My wires all slipped out during removal. This should be fun to fix. Be careful.
I broke the speaker cable from the board
can I fix that ??????
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the hard drive cable connector up from its socket on the logic board.
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Bend the hard drive cable away from the optical drive.
N.B! Thank you very much all you here on iFixit! Some IMPORTANT notes. Be very careful BEFORE prying the connectors up and down. They are very fragile and the picture could actually be seen as showing a bending loading in their weakest direction, AROUND its slender axis. The connector is slender and inserted on the logic board, so the gentle "walking" up and down should be done ALONG their slender direction and WITHOUT touching the adjacent connectors. If bending is done around its axis the soldering comes apart and the cable is done and gone. Just happened. These flat cables are one of the weakest design spots in my experience. They are a major time, money and geist consuming reason for malfunction like Wi-Fi connection problems, HDD, SSD not found internally but externally from USB issues et al being found on different forums. Thanks again and again.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the optical drive connector up from its socket on the logic board.
N.B! Thank you very much all you here on iFixit! Some IMPORTANT notes. Be very careful BEFORE prying the connectors up and down. They are very fragile and the picture could actually be seen as showing a bending loading in their weakest direction, AROUND its slender axis. The connector is slender and inserted on the logic board, so the gentle "walking" up and down should be done ALONG their slender direction and WITHOUT touching the adjacent connectors. If bending is done around its axis the soldering comes apart and the cable is done and gone. Just happened. These flat cables are one of the weakest design spots in my experience. They are a major time, money and geist consuming reason for malfunction like Wi-Fi connection problems, HDD, SSD not found internally but externally from USB issues et al being found on different forums. Thanks again and again.
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Remove the three 2.7 mm Phillips screws securing the optical drive to the upper case.
The two screws at the left are stuck. Anyone having this problem or know how to remove them? I used a Phillips #00 as stated and it doesn't work.
I had the same issue. I got to Step 14 with no problems and then stripped the bottom left screw head! I was able to get it out with the help of a rubber band. You lay a section of the rubber band across the stripped screw, place your screwdriver on the screw pinching the rubber band. Then place a decent amount of force to engage the screw as you turn. Worked like a charm for me! Also, if you bought the ifixit optical bay hard drive enclosure they included two of those screws in the bag of screws (at least they did in mine).
I had to drill mine. I cannot for the life of me understand how those got to be so tight or so easily stripped. The is no reason for either. Both mine stripped like a hot knife through butter.
I had to drill mine out. Not that hard with even the crappiest of drill bits. One I had to drill completely out, although honestly I just got the head off and left it. The drive bay replacement I got only had a place for two screws anyways. The other came out as expected, one I got enough into the head I was able to reverse directions and it came out.
I also did this without removing the camera cable and other items, just moved things out of the way. I took one tiny pull on the camera cable and knew better than to bother. You should be able to easily manage the items out of the way without causing any damage. Also, if you can only get one screw in, just make it one of the left screws. The unibody setup and placement of other items make it so that no matter what the drive is secure no matter what.
I'm having the exact same issue here. Left two screws are in there really tight. I got the top one out with the rubber band trick, but no dice with the bottom one.
Same Problem one of the screws wont come out. I think it is stripped . What should I do now ?
I stripped mine as well. Anyone know where I can buy these screws for cheap?
As complained, the left bottom one was also annoying me, stripped out. If it is moderately stripped, then the rubber band would be the best answer as guided by andrewsimpsonx. The screw is tiny and shallow, so all you need is just one very hard pressing the screw, pinching the rubber band.
By the way, I was doing this to lighten my laptop, but note that it is not that affecting :(.
can i reuse this optical drive again
Sure you can. Use it in anything. Stick it in a USB enclosure and carry it.
As complained, I'm stuck at step 14, because of one loisy screw... I've tried the rubber band trick, but it does not work with my screw ( bottom left one). Now the screw is also completely stripped, because of the rubber band trick. Does anyone have any recommendations, how to get the screw out ?
Well, that was a crock. I managed to get all the way to the end, didnt have to remove my camera cable, and the two last screws stripped out easier than a hot knife through butter.
I tried the rubber band trick, nothing on either one. Guess it will go to the drill.
Because I skipped steps 6, 7, 8, and 11 when removing the hard drive enclosure (I had already the dual drive running, but I needed to replace the drive in the optical enclosure) I found it specially difficult to put the top right screw back in place. It kept falling below the enclosure. I needed to remove the enclosure two times, before I was able to put it back.
Basically i had to remove the optical drive by leaving the two left screw's there and snapping the whole thing, it was not the best solution but it worked, the two screws would't come out :)
iFixit has a guide on How to Remove a Stripped Screw: How to Remove a Stripped Screw
I had the upper left screw stuck and a bit stripped. What worked for me was removing the optical bay as much as I could (possible since 2/3 screws were out) and wiggle it around the last screw. The last screw came off really easily after.
I was about to pull and break the optical drive because the two screws were very tight. On a last effort, I pressed down really hard the screwdriver and used pliers to twist it. It worked.
Can’t secure the hard drive holder to those two left screw placements. I was able to get them out without any problem - but the dual hard drive holder piece doesn’t have the right dimensions for me to re-secure the part to the upper part of the case. Basically, the head of the screw is “too wide”, and cannot be forced past the side of the drive enclosure. Will be sending pictures to iFixit, as this needs to be fixed. Right now, I’ve got an empty hard drive enclosure (since the SSDs are out of stock, and I had a stuck CD in the optical drive that was really causing a lot of slow-downs and grinding noises) just sort of sitting in there. Figured it was a bad idea to leave a huge gaping space.
We had the same issue too, but then we choose the Phillips #000 applying pressure downwards. Just then, the screws went easier,
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Pull the optical drive upward from its edge closest to the display and remove it from the upper case.
Because I skipped steps 6, 7, 8, and 11. when removing the hard drive enclosure (I had already the dual drive running, but I needed to replace the drive in the optical enclosure, I found it easier to remove the enclosure by lift the side close to the battery and main HD and pulling it towards myself (towards main HD and battery).
Did the same, also because i skipped those steps. It worked, you just have to remove it gently.
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Pull the optical drive cable away from the optical drive.
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Remove the two black Phillips #0 screws securing the small metal mounting bracket. Transfer this bracket to your new optical drive or hard drive enclosure.
Does anyone have a problem that the cd/DVD won't fit in their SuperDrive once reinstalled? I am unable to fit a cd in, as well as eject any cd as well.
Same problem here. I have to force it and it doesn't spit it back out.
ryanb -
what capacity of hard disk we can use once we remove Optical Drive 500GB, 1TB or 2TB
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Remove the plastic spacer from the optical bay hard drive enclosure by pressing in on one of the clips on either side and lifting it up and out of the enclosure.
The bay and dvd drive cable at iFixit is $40.00 (Unibody Laptop Dual Drive)
But for $10 more you can get an external casing that will protect your super drive form MCE (http://store.mcetech.com/Merchant2/merch...) A total of $50 dollars. It is what I used and works great and looks pretty and is guaranteed to protect your superdrive. MCE also gives you a disk with software to patch the DVD Player to work with external dvd drives. So For an extra $10 dollars you get better software functionality and a case for your super drive. It works great.
Robert, do you by chance also know where to buy an external drive case to make the old hard disk an external portable hard disk ?
Early 2011 MacBook Pro was running slow with its 2TB hard drive running at 5400rpm. The DVD drive was almost never used. The iFixit part allowed me to place the hard drive in the DVD bay and place an SSD drive where the hard drive originally sat. Now the computer fires up almost instantly and runs so much cooler as the 2TB hard drive is only accessed as needed. A stunning transformation for a 7 year old laptop.
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Make sure that the hard drive connectors are facing down before placing it into the enclosure.
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Gently place the hard drive into the enclosure's hard drive slot.
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While firmly holding the enclosure in place with one hand, use your other hand to press the hard drive into the enclosure connectors.
It is not a good idea to put fast SSDs into the optibay. System tries to negotiate at 6 Gbit, but it fails; disk is recognized but it couldn't even be formatted. I've waisted a lot of time to find a reason. After swapping SSD with original mac's HD both work properly, one at 6, another at 3 Gbit
Good to know, thanks!
I have to withdraw my comment. It is NOT a good idea to put a SATAIII SSD in the optical bay. It gives random freezes. Swapping it with a HD is indeed better. Better read/writes too. Only downside is that SMS won't work on the optical bay so treat your baby with care. Also Sleep issues might occur when placing a HD in the optical bay (a total freezing system). I already wasted a HD that was in the optical bay.
I've replaced the optibay with a samsung 840 pro but can't format it nor copy files (a few files work) to it. Do you suggest putting the HDD in the optibay instead? Did you clone the HDD to the SSD before swapping them? Will my Mac boot from the HDD the first time I boot even though it's in the optibay? I would really appreciate an answer, I've spent too many hours trying to figure it out!
Also had this same problem. Tried and failed a Samsung firmware upgrade. Ended up send drive back to Amazon.
Andrew -
Okay it seems like some models of MacBook Pro have issues with a fast (6Gbit/s) SSD in the optical bay. Even though my Mac says it offers 6Gbit on both bays it simply didn't work in the optical bay. So I switched places between the two drives and everything seems to work. My Mac booted from the old HDD in optical bay automatically and then I cloned it afterwards and changed the startup disk to the new one. As said before, don't put a fast SSD in the optical bay!
Hello Carl. What have you done after switching places between the two drives? Can you explain it with more details please? I have the HDD in the hard drive place, and an SSD in the optibay, and I have a lot of freeze / beachball. Thanks.
I'm on a Macbook pro 13" Late 2011.
I have the startup set to the SSD in the optibay.
I've already done it. switch the hard drives and reboot, that's all. Working without beachballs XD
I'm experiencing the same issues with the HDDs in the optical bay. I've tried multiple drives (WD caviar blue 3G and a Seagate 6G) with no luck thus far. I replaced the SATA cable and that didn't help with either drive. My SSD still works fine in the main bay but I would like the extra storage.
For those of you who got the HDD in the optical bay working, which HDD (brand and model) did you use?
My MBP is a Late 2011 15" (8.2)
My understanding is that SSD in the optibay for 2011 MBPs will only work on the late-2011 13" model (not the 15" or 17"). I can confirm that it works in my late-2011 13" MBP. I have a Samsung EVO 500GB in my optibay (HGST 1TB in the hard drive bay) with no problems at all: negotiated link speed of 6Gbits for both drives and not beach balls or other slowdowns.
Steve -
I'm not trying to put an SSD in the optical bay. As I said, I've tried multiple HDDs but none of them seem to work. I know that it's possible to put an HDD in the optical bay because I bought the computer with one in it but it seems that none are recognized. I have tried multiple brands and speeds with no luck. I would like to know which specific model of HDD works in the late 2011 15" optical bay.
Thanks
woestmab -
Whats the size of this caddy?
Looks like no one has any clue. I can see following sizes:
12.7mm universal
12.7mm unibody
9.5mm universal
9.5mm unibody
I have a macbook pro mid 2012 non retina
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Once the hard drive is snug, reinsert the plastic spacer while holding the hard drive against the bottom of the enclosure.
Here they picture Crucial as their choice, you can also find some great options at Samsung (it is what I installed and it works just as good if not better than the crucial I installed in my wife's iMac. here is their site http://www.samsung.com/us/computer/solid...
Its just another great option. Also when installing SSDs make sure to enable TRIM support (crashes can and probably will occur if you don't) TRIM enabler is available free and the pro version is $10 http://www.cindori.org/software/trimenab... It is the easiest solution for this issue.
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Use two Phillips #1 screws to secure the drive to its enclosure.
With the particular drive bay adaptor I used, these attachment screws were already fitted to the adaptor but were found at the sides, not underneath. Indeed, the adaptor had no screw holes on the underside.
At first I couldn't get my machine to even turn on - thought it was the battery connector, but in the end I just had to reset the SMC. (http://support.apple.com/kb/ht3964 - see "Resetting the SMC on portables with a battery you should not remove on your own").
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Attach the optical drive bracket to the new enclosure with two Phillips #0 screws.
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Reconnect any cables you have removed from the original optical drive onto the optical bay enclosure.
I have the drive installed with this bay, but the drive does not appear in the Disk Utility. I see a 'Nvidia MCP79 AHCI' in the system information, but no drive listed with it. Is there some special driver needed to get the MCP to see the drive?
Replaced the optical with hdd, as well as replaced the hard drive with an ssd. Now I get the circle with a line through it. But, when I hold the option key down, it gives me both hard drives, PLUS, the thumb drive I have in the USB port with a Mountain Lion installer. It even shows the recovery disks, but gives me the circle with the line when I choose one. Any help is appreciated.
Mate,
My mbp shipped with OS 10.8, and I had upgraded twice to 10.10
I've a 10.7 USB which upgraded my old MBP.
My plan today was to boot with my new ssd, my time machine back up and the Lion usb plugged in.
I would then click on the Lion usb, and tell it to put the OS and time machine back up on the ssd.
So I help down ALT and when it started it gave me the options of the usual Mac internal or the Lion USB.
I clicked Lion, but instead of taking me to the install options (Disk utility, restore from time machine etc etc) it gave me that grey circle with a diagonal line through it. The no entry sign - grey on grey - that I think you have.
Some googling said that it is because I was trying to usb a 10.7 install on a MBP that shipped 10.8
You can't go back, apparently.
So if any of the OSs are older than the mac you got, you will get this error. The grey in grey no entry.
I just cloned my HDD to my ssd (Carbon copy cloner free 30 day trial) using an external stat-usb3 wire and all is good.
Rory -
simple question, how do I use the removed drive to play a DVD? Why don't I just use digital media...yadayada...I know. I'm currently in the hospital, did this drive swap for busy work. The littles want to watch an old DVD and I can't solve the issue.
This will give you instructions on how to get your DVD player to work in an external enclosure: http://macenstein.com/default/2011/07/ho...
Steve -
I have a 17" Macbook Pro6,1 unibody with an Intel Core i5, 2.53GHz. I was successful installing a 250GB SSD in the DVD bay, and I'm able to boot from it. I did this by first installing OS X 10.9.4 on the SSD mounted into an external HD case, testing the system to see if it would boot up into the SSD, then installing the SSD and carrier in the DVD drive bay. The system now boots up from the SSD with no problems. If you are having installation problems, I recommend trying this method.
This is really for step 23: reassembly
You can not get the orginal screws back in to hold the new optical drive replacement in place because there is a black plastic filler running along the front edge of the part. There is no place for the screw head to go. I had to remove some of the plastic to get the machine reassembled. Whoever tested this overlooked what I think is a major problem. How many macbook pros are out there with only one (maybe two if you're lucky) screw holding this thing in place?
I got extra screws and have no idea why. The bits included in the kit are poor and don't work on most of the screws. I had to use my own tools instead.
Hi,
I'm using a 13' MBP mid 2010 and I just swapped my HDD for a SSD. Al works perfectly fine!
So i bought the unibody laptop dual drive (from iFixit) and replaced the optical drive for the original HDD from my MBP. The installation with this guide went perfectly, however, the HDD is not recognized in disk utility.
I put the old HDD back on the original HDD bay, the HDD boots and works. I placed back the optical drive in the optical bay, also works. But when i put the HDD in the unibody laptop dual drive (iFixit), it is not recognized via the USB-port(however, the HDD starts spinning) or when installed in the optical bay.
So i think there is a software issue where my MBP does not recognize a HDD in the optical bay. Is there a way to force the OS to look for storage/HDD via the optical bay STATA cable?
All help is welcome!
Thanks,
Leon
Leon: did you fix your issue? I'm facing the same problem.
No, afraid not..
Leon -
also having the same problem, not recognizing second hdd
cmaizan -
Same here: installed original hdd in optical bay and it won't mount. Tried it using the sata cable on different computer, and the drive spins, but doesn't mount either. Would love to get a fix (or at least an explanation) for this. The whole point was to add extra storage, but so far, no dice.
Did you ever find a solution?
I installed mine, but the ssd I'm using was a bootable usb running Yosemite, and now that I plugged it in, I'm getting a circle with the slash through it when I try to boot to it, and I can't unmount it or reformat it from the recovery Disk Utility or in Mountain Lion on the stock hdd still inside.
Same issue here unfortunately... new SSD in primary slot is recognized fine and allowed me to install OS X with no issues from USB. However, both during the install when booting from USB and post-install within the full El Capitan OS, I simply do not see any '2nd' hard drive in the system - for the record I just reused the same 500GB HDD that came with my MBP; and I ran the exhaustive System Profiler tests prior to doing any work to ensure I'd have no HW issues/surprises. Sure enough,. I can hear the mechanical drive churning as the power runs to it, so I know it's hooked up okay. For some reason the drive just isn't being recognized by the Mac OS. Hoping someone can help me resolve this so I don't feel bad about spending the [extra] money on the iFixit enclosure system vs. one of the cheaper alternatives I found online, sigh... Any help would be much appreciated, thanks!
Brian M -
Figured I'd reply to my own message just above for those interested or following my situation. The 'churning' I heard was actually the left fan inside the system, which I managed to disassemble so I could lubricate the sleeve bearing with a touch of mineral oil - now it's as quiet as ever and works great. Also, I ordered a replacement optical SATA adapter cable from iFixit and this resolved my issue of accessing the hard drive moved to the optical slot inside the dual drive enclosure. Long story short - all of my issues are resolved thanks to some disassembly/repair work and new parts from iFixit!
Brian M -
Same problem happens, i don’t know how to fix that as well. Anyone has any idea? Thanks
Hi!
I followed the tutorial and everything works fine when I use an HDD 320 go but when I use the new HDD I bought which is an Hitachi 1T 7200T 2.5 P I have some trouble. The disk utily takes a long time to recognize the new hard drive and then starts not responding.
I tought my new HDD might be broken but when I use it with an external portable HDD Enclosure it works fine...
Any ideas?
Thanks!
Julie
I do believe the max size HDD is a 750GB. 1TB might be too big. Though the ONLY place I found this stated was on iFixit. No where else.
I just have finished installing second SSD to my MBP (unibody 15` 2010).
First one was changed like one year ago. Samsung 500GB SSD. It is in my HDD bay and I'm running system from it.
Today I put a new Samsung 1TB 850 Evo 1 SSD in to my optic bay.
I encounter problem with SSD not recognized by Finder.
But It was recognized by Disk Utility.
What I did was I erase new SSD by Disk Utility. Then the new partition was created and now It has been seen by Finder.
So If you see it in Disk Utility just erased it.
Some extra info in under this link--> https://discussions.apple.com/docs/DOC-4...
Wish you all luck :)
Hi all,
I did this and all seemed to be working fine, both drives showed up and all was good then about 20 minutes later i got a message saying that "the drive had been ejected incorrectly" or something like that. The drives have now disappeared from finder and Disk Utility. I took the SSD out of the superdrive caddy and put it in an external USB3 caddy, it's working fine. I even left this connected over night (all OK). This morning i put the SSD back into my Late 2011 MacBook and the same thing happened, 20ish minutes and then the eject message... Have i missed something?
Any help would be very much appreciated.
Dear iFixit
I changed my Hdd with an ssd using this guide. My hdd is now in a caddy where the optical drive used to be.
I can see my original drive ( Toshiba 500GB ) in the disk utility-app, but i can't reach my data on it.
When i take it out of the caddy again and put it in a external Hdd case, i can read it perfectly fine.
So there is nothing wrong with the hdd or the connection.
Is this a problem i can fix with software?
Thx for the help!
Those were Phillips #00 in my case, not #0, on the small metal mounting bracket.
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Align the cable's SATA connector with the drive's port and plug in securely.
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Plug the USB connector into your laptop and your optical drive is ready for use.
There is a small metal button in the front of the drive and you can use that to eject the drive if you were wondering.
my drive’s connector is nothing like that, and I’m wondering is it possible to connect it to another computer?
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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11 Commenti
Hi
Can someone guide me the best and cheap way to recover the data from my macbook pro late 2011 edition. I have tried to recover and reinstall OSX but failed. Now its time to format the drive and reinstall OSX. But i need to save my full data. Suggestions would be highly appreciated
Hi
I've followed this guide twice, step by step, to replace the old HDD with a new SSD, but I just don't see the dual drive appear on my desktop. At first I thought it was because the HDD had needed to be formatted prior; which I did, connecting the optical drive enclosure with the HDD installed in it to another MacBook, then, using Disk Utility to format the drive clean, but no luck either way. I still can't see it on my desktop. Any ideas?
I'll appreciate any help because I was totally into the great idea of the dual hard drive so I went and bought the whole kit from ifixit to perform this swap. I'd really like to see it work.
Thanks in advance
Thank you very much for this guide. The whole process is easier than expected.
Hi,
After performing the above scenario, my Macbook Pro is not turning on. Once I'm plugging in the power adapter I can here the clicking sound (approx. every second) and the light on the front edge starts blinking. I've tried many different scenarios, with holding and release power button etc... I've also tried disconnecting and connecting back different parts of the scheme, but result is still the same...
Any ideas what can be the problem here?
Thanks in advance!
hi, my macbook is not turning on too, what did you do?
man_ind -
That guide just saved my Macbook Pro. The disk, when installed at its regular place, was not working anymore (read-only somehow, or completely invisible) while it was perfectly working when connected through USB. So I'm not using this as a second disk but as my primary disk and it's working nicely. Ok, it may sound as if it is the beginning of the end for my late 2011 Macbook Pro, but this gives me time to be able to afford a replacement. Thanks!
Did you try to replace the hard drive cable? MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Late 2011 Hard Drive Cable Replacement
This was likely the problem of the logic board not recognizing your hard drive in its original location.
The SATA Optical Bay SATA Hard Drive Enclosure details state (on the website) that it can support up to 750GB drive, however this guide's part list includes a 1TB drive. Will the this installation guide (and enclosure) work with a 1TB (or greater) SSD?
I followed the above guide and now have an additional 500Gb disk space. Winning!
FYI - you don't have to remove all those camera cables, you can push them aside carefully and still get to the screw underneath.
Thanks for the guide - it worked flawlessly
I placed old hard drive in “optiBay” enclosure and Samsung 840 EVO 120GB instead of main hard drive.
I had data backup done earlier, so I opted in for complete wipe/format - booted into recovery mode - installed fresh OS, I’m keeping my OS and apps on the SSD and home folder on HDD. It boots up very fast, apps are starting up like crazy
Does void the warranty?
jfondeur - Replica
No, it does not void the warranty. More specifically: http://eshop.macsales.com/Search/display...
oakdragon12 - Replica
How much weight can I save by removing the optical drive?
gunes314 - Replica
You can save a lot of weight if lets say your installing a solid state drive or putting in a second hard drive but if you know that you use the CD/DVD disc drive a lot then you might just want to leave the drive alone.
Marshall WahlstromHelgren -
Also wondering how much weight I'd save by just removing. My drive is broken for ages, but I have not needed it in ages. The HD was already replaced by a cheap SSD (second best thing after upgrading to 8GB), so I'd appreciate losing some weight. I mean, the computer. Although I could lose some too... erm... well, anyway, I guess the lack of the DVD would not interfere with anything, right? Opinions?
Carlos Duarte do Nascimento - Replica
Apple has meticulously balanced the MacBook's weight from left to right, and removing the optical drive may off-balance the Mac.
Seji the veggie -
What so you think that a removing the optical drive which weighs less than a AA battery will unbalance a MBP making it unusable? LOL!
Unless you use the MBP on a high wire (an even then I have my doubts) you'd never notice the weight difference.
pmhparis -
The issue is not one of weight but an issue with the systems cooling and an opening which objects could enter. For a few grams of weight I don’t think its worth it! A better solution would be to swap out the heaver HD for a much lighter SSD, and getting all of the performance benefits of the faster drive as well!
While you might not think it the optical drive also acts as a stiffener so there is less twist in the case. This is because of the size of the hole for the DVD/CD’s so taking it out weakens the case design.
Dan -
I'm thinking you'd probably be OK losing the DVD drive without a problem. Just make sure the optical drive cable is secured or you might hear it rattling in there from time-to-time.
John Adam Wickliffe - Replica
Hey guys,
this website is amazing. I read it to guide me on fixing my mac book pro, but on the video, the girl gives a wrong information.. She says that is not possible replace just the keyboard... But I managed to replace only my keyboard. It is boring because I have to remove approximately 70 screws but it is possible. Thanks a lot! You guys helped me save about US$300 thats because in Brazil some technicians would charge me with that amount!
I posted some pictures on your facebook page..
renatumb - Replica
Tip: Use one of those weekday pill holders to have a cheep way to store screws you remove and each day of the week can be for different sizes or parts. It has been handy to have (much less expensive than the magnetic mat.
Robert Wacker - Replica
Great tutorial. I found that using a Phillips #0 in lieu of the #00 worked much better.
kschmesk - Replica
I tried the PH #00 for the 10 screws that hold the bottom case and it's too big, instead PH #000 works perfectly. Are you sure this screws are #00?
Alex - Replica
The likely problem with your wifi is not the card but the antenna leads that go into the plastic clutch
. Ifixit don't have a guide to change this as it it includes the isight camera so the screen has to be disassembled which is fairly hard
I got round it by using the camera cable from the old set and cutting off the new one
brian whittle - Replica
Hello MacWorld,
Just want to say that this site is a great resource for repairing or upgrading your Mac. I had a bad SATA cable in my MacBook Pro and after ordering a new one from the "IFIXIT" site I received the cable within two days, replaced it and was up and running again in no time. Thanks IFIXIT for you help!
wer 10/5/15
tayseer999 - Replica
I have found that my MacBook Pro 13 Late 2011 has five shouldered screws and not four. I am not sure exactly where it goes but I have put it in the top left corner of the picture as it is the odd one out.
GotMac - Replica
Hello, where can I buy the screws I need in case I lose one of them?
taylornya - Replica
iFixit sells a kit: Macbook Pro Unibody Lower Case Screw Set
Darrell Johnson -
on my device the #00 screwdriver was a bit too small. a #0 was the perfect one
Maximilian Klotz - Replica
I found with mine that the shouldered and un-shouldered screws were reversed (the three un-shouldered screws going where the orange colour indicates). Also, I found that the front four screws went in at an angle.
gilded yak - Replica
Are you sure the short screws are different? The set sold here just says “Seven 3 mm Phillips #00 screws.”
Jack - Replica
I have the same question. What is the difference between shouldered and not? So hard to see any difference…
Michael Wilkens -
I’ll second that. I could never find them being different.
otetz -
I have one stripped screw... How opening without drill it?! Any suggestions please?
rodrigosady - Replica
I also stripped a couple screws. I wasn’t able to open it up without drilling. After drilling the heads and removing the cover it was easy to hacksaw the tip and unscrew with a standard driver.
Michael Wilkens -
I used 3 eggcups to hold the screws ;>) They are very fiddly and easy to drop on floor so keep the MacBook away from the edge of the surface you are using to avoid accidentally dropping a screw off the edge of a table, etc.
Stephen Smith - Replica
A screw does not come out, how can I get it out? Many thanks in advance for your help
Wilder Torres - Replica
Since you’ll be removing many screws it’s best to plan ahead. I found it especially helpful to have a small plastic tray with about a dozen separate compartments to hold screws. As I removed screws I kept them in one compartment for each item removed. For example: The lower case removal involves the removal of ten screws. I kept them all in the first tray compartment and set the lid aside. Also, I put a post-it note identifying this compartment as “Lower case” and noted that the top right-most screws were the long ones. I continued with this methodology as a removed the next item, and the next, etc. Disassembly notes included for each compartment. This helped SIGNIFICANTLY as I was able to reassemble the Macbook easily by simply going from one compartment to the next (in reverse order). This guide is rated “Difficult” which it really isn’t when you plan ahead in this way. It saves time in the long run.
airshack - Replica
when putting the macbook pro back together, the middle screw on the right side (if the computer is upside down and you have the hinge furthest away from you) requires a bracket that was not included with my new upper case. i had to remove it from my old case and transfer it over - if you don’t do this, that screw will have nothing to attach to.
this was one of the many additional parts i needed to transfer from my old case to the new one that aren’t mentioned in this guide…i’m adding comments on each step to try to help others…i wish i had thought to take pictures.
Matt - Replica
It seems to me the yellow and orange screws are the same
Luca Giancarli - Replica
If you look closely, the four front screws (with the yellow circles) have a short unthreaded section under the head. The orange keyed screws are threaded all the way up.
Raymond Ives -
The screws used on all Retina models, as well as about everything Apple has made since the iPhone 4, uses “PENTALOBULAR” not Phillips screws. These look like a TORX driver, but it has 5 concave sides. I believe the size you want is a P4 or T4. (1.2mm).
Don Cely - Replica
Two screw types:
______________________________
Shouldered Unshouldered
xxxxxxx……….xxxxxxx
..xxxxx……..….…….x…….
…..x……..…...……….x…….
…..x…………....……..x…….
______________________________
El Crashitan - Replica
If you are following this guide to upgrade to a better drive and want to keep your system and data intact I highly recommend first following the guide to Clone an Existing Drive using the recommended free SuperDuper!. That process was a breeze and gives you confidence that the new drive will come up looking exactly the way it did when you started.
Patrick Langvardt - Replica
My top tip - make sure you buy good quality Phillips screwdrivers and a magnetic holder. Cheap screwdrivers won’t get the screws undone safely. Without a magnetic holder you have no chance of getting the tiny crews in and out safely.
jeremyyoung - Replica
I did this last weekend, and definitely, a Phillips #000 screwdriver is required (not a Phillips #00!)
Javier Campos Delgado - Replica