Introduzione
L'aggiunta di un secondo disco nel computer portatile offre diversi vantaggi, fra cui velocità più elevate, maggiore spazio di archiviazione e la possibilità di installare nuovi software senza problemi. Utilizzare questa guida per eseguire l'installazione mediante il nostro case per hard drive nell'alloggiamento ottico.
Cosa ti serve
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Con il case chiuso, posizionare l'Unibody capovolto su una superficie piatta.
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Premere il lato scanalato della chiusura di sgancio dello sportello di accesso, affinché sia possibile prendere l'estremità libera con le mani. Sollevare la chiusura di sgancio finché non è in posizione verticale.
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Prendere la linguetta di plastica bianca ed estrarre la batteria, rimuovendola dall'Unibody.
Great tutorial ! great step !
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Rimuovere le otto viti seguenti, che fissano il case inferiore al case:
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Una vite con testa a croce da 3 mm.
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Tre viti con testa a croce da 13,5 mm.
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Quattro viti con testa a croce da 3,5 mm.
Make sure you have a good quality Phillips screwdriver. Mine had removable tips and had a small play at the connection. As a result I didn't have a good feel and damaged my screws (those securing the fan and the top left in step 23). Game over for me installing new thermal paste...
Be very carefull with your screws! Especially those on the inside.
You can get away with a Phillips #00 for many of the screws involved but the 4 at the bottom case split are likely to strip if you don’t use a JIS #00 or, in a pinch, a Phillips #000.
I used the Phillips #00 tip from my Pro Tech Toolkit, and it worked well enough. But yes, maybe #000 might have been better on the lower row of screws. Note to myself: Always read the comments first.
When replacing these screws, the order to replace them in is as follows:
1, Top left
2. Top right
3. Top center-left
4. Top center-right
5. Bottom center-right
6. Bottom center-left
7. Bottom right
8. Bottom left
I hope this information is helpful.
I followed my usual process of putting in all the screws loosely, then tightening them gradually in distributed pattern, to help ensure that the panel settles in place evenly. But maybe some orders are better.
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Con entrambe le mani, sollevare il case inferiore da quello superiore.
Thanks for the guide!
It's implicit in the two photos, but worth mentioning because it blocked my progress in this step for a bit: You have to put the release latch back into its horizontal, closed position before you can lift off the lower-case panel.
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Utilizzare l'estremità piatta di un inseritore per rimuovere il connettore del subwoofer estraendolo dalla scheda logica.
Me, too, broke the subwoofer connector from the motherboard. I'd suggest removing the padding first so that you can see what kind of connector it is, then pry it loose (insert spudger where the cables enter the connector).
DO NOT REMOVE THE SUBWOOFER CONNECTION. Step 6 IS NOT NESCESSARY.
You can complete this guide without doing step 6 just BE CAREFUL as you already should be.
Oops, I followed Step-6 and my subwoofer connector came off from the motherboard!!! Please suggest me what needs to be done now?
Happened the same to me ... step 6 is a @%#$$. You should put now a way to repair the damage done. I just have four small tin marks on the board ...
Happened the same problem to me ... step 6 is a @%#$$**%%#. You should put now a way to repair the damage done. I just have four small tin marks on the board ... and looking to sky for help
There are two variants of this connector. In one, there are pins that come up from the motherboard and the connector can be pried directly up without damage.
The other variant of the connector that everyone commenting here has is soldered to the motherboard. To repair this type, first pull off the small square of foam padding on top of the connector. Then gently pull out the four black and red wires, leaving the soldered connector attached to the logic board. After you have installed the new speaker and subwoofer, you will remove the connector on the replacement component and carefully feed the red and black wires into the connector that is still attached to the motherboard (paying careful attention to their correct order). Then replace the square of black foam.
If you have removed the soldered on the connector, your two options are to solder it on yourself or to find a repair shop that can do that for you. There are instructables online for soldering tiny components that can help you.
Reading all of these comments prior to beginning the work, I didn’t even try to investigate the type of connector my laptop had. I just DIDN’T attempt removal of this connector, worked around it, and as others have mentioned, it is truly unnecessary to remove this connector. You can move the subwoofer (after removal of its other screws) out of the way just enough to slip out the old drive and slip in the new drive.
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Scollegare il cavo della fotocamera, estraendo l'estremità maschio direttamente dal connettore femmina.
The lack of warning “Be careful not to pull up on the cable as you remove it from the socket.” here, as is displayed on a similar step on the “MacBook Unibody Model A1278 AirPort Card Replacement” guide, has caused me to break the cable. My WiFi is not working anymore. How can I replace only this cable? Thank you.
Bonjour J’ai eu le malheur de toucher à ce câble et depuis je n’ai plus de retro-éclairage sur mon écran. Est-ce lié ?
Hello I had the misfortune to touch this cable and since then I have no more backlight on my screen. Is it related? (but the computer works fine when I plug in a screen)
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Rimuovere le due viti con testa a croce che fissano la staffa del cavo della fotocamera al case superiore.
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Rimuovere le tre viti con testa a croce da 2,5 mm che fissano l'unità ottica al case superiore.
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Scollega il cavo dell'unità ottica estraendolo direttamente dall'unità stessa.
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Rimuovi le due viti nere a croce Phillips #0 che fissano la piccola staffa metallica di montaggio. Trasferisci questa staffa sul tuo nuovo lettore ottico o sul case dell'hard drive.
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Rimuovi il distanziale di plastica dal case del disco rigido nell'alloggiamento dell'unità ottica premendo una delle clip poste da ciascun lato e sollevandolo dal case.
All Macbooks use 9.5mm Optical Drive Caddy, also, If you’re wondering as well, the Optical Drive runs at SATA II speeds just like with the main hard drive area, so if you’re using a SSD, then it’s going to run at a slightly slower speed.
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Verifica che i connettori del disco rigido siano rivolti verso il basso prima di posizionarlo nel case.
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Posiziona il disco rigido delicatamente nell'apposito slot del case.
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Tenendo saldamente il case in posizione con una mano, premi con l'altra il disco rigido nei connettori del case.
Okay it seems like some models of MacBook Pro have issues with a fast (6Gbit/s) SSD in the optical bay. Even though my Mac says it offers 6Gbit on both bays it simply didn't work in the optical bay. So I switched places between the two drives and everything seems to work. My Mac booted from the old HDD in optical bay automatically and then I cloned it afterwards and changed the startup disk to the new one. As said before, don't put a fast SSD in the optical bay!
This is an extremely late response to an old comment, but… whatev’s. My 2011 MacBook Pro had that issue: the main (HDD bay) SATA operated at 6Gbit, and while the optical bay said it was 6Gbit, the “Negotiated Link Speed” was like 1.5Gbits regardless of what you put in it (I can understand 1.5Gbits for an optical drive, but not for an SSD). Some of the early 2012 models did the same thing, from what I understand, but that was corrected pretty early on; both my 13” and 15” 2012’s run at 6Gb/s on both SATA busses.
AJH -
It’s not wise to swop the optidrive for an HD as there is no physical protection. The caddy is only intended for an SSD. -
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Una volta agganciato il disco rigido, reinserisci il distanziale di plastica tenendo il disco premuto contro la parte inferiore del case.
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Fissa l'unità al case con due viti con testa a croce Phillips #1.
Where are these screws coming from? Were they part of the original optical drive?
The new enclosure should include these two Phillips screws.
Can someone show the step of removal process of hdd/SSD placed in the caddy? I am unable to revert this process. Do we have to apply back greater force to remove back the hard drive/SSD from the caddy?
These screws seems to be located in different places on different enclosures. I had serious trouble getting the SSD that the previous owner of this MacBook installed out of the enclosure until I realized the screws holding the SSD in place were on the side and not on the bottom. In case anyone else has the same issue!
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Collega la staffa dell'unità ottica al nuovo case mediante due viti con testa a croce Phillips #0.
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Ricollega tutti i cavi rimossi dall'unità ottica originale nel case dell'alloggiamento ottico.
Replaced the optical with hdd, as well as replaced the hard drive with an ssd. Now I get the circle with a line through it. But, when I hold the option key down, it gives me both hard drives, PLUS, the thumb drive I have in the USB port with a Mountain Lion installer. It even shows the recovery disks, but gives me the circle with the line when I choose one. Any help is appreciated.
Mate,
My mbp shipped with OS 10.8, and I had upgraded twice to 10.10
I've a 10.7 USB which upgraded my old MBP.
My plan today was to boot with my new ssd, my time machine back up and the Lion usb plugged in.
I would then click on the Lion usb, and tell it to put the OS and time machine back up on the ssd.
So I help down ALT and when it started it gave me the options of the usual Mac internal or the Lion USB.
I clicked Lion, but instead of taking me to the install options (Disk utility, restore from time machine etc etc) it gave me that grey circle with a diagonal line through it. The no entry sign - grey on grey - that I think you have.
Some googling said that it is because I was trying to usb a 10.7 install on a MBP that shipped 10.8
You can't go back, apparently.
So if any of the OSs are older than the mac you got, you will get this error. The grey in grey no entry.
I just cloned my HDD to my ssd (Carbon copy cloner free 30 day trial) using an external stat-usb3 wire and all is good.
Rory -
I have a 17" Macbook Pro6,1 unibody with an Intel Core i5, 2.53GHz. I was successful installing a 250GB SSD in the DVD bay, and I'm able to boot from it. I did this by first installing OS X 10.9.4 on the SSD mounted into an external HD case, testing the system to see if it would boot up into the SSD, then installing the SSD and carrier in the DVD drive bay. The system now boots up from the SSD with no problems. If you are having installation problems, I recommend trying this method.
I just have finished installing second SSD to my MBP (unibody 15` 2010).
First one was changed like one year ago. Samsung 500GB SSD. It is in my HDD bay and I'm running system from it.
Today I put a new Samsung 1TB 850 Evo 1 SSD in to my optic bay.
I encounter problem with SSD not recognized by Finder.
But It was recognized by Disk Utility.
What I did was I erase new SSD by Disk Utility. Then the new partition was created and now It has been seen by Finder.
So If you see it in Disk Utility just erased it.
Some extra info in under this link--> https://discussions.apple.com/docs/DOC-4...
Wish you all luck :)
My installation went great thanks to the guide. I did notice a small thing that might make a good tip, and that is to inspect all the visible screws. I saw one that was slightly raised, and when I poked around with the spudger, I found 2 more that had worked themselves out a bit. Its probably something super rare but at the age of these things, it wouldn't hurt to check.
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Non buttare via questo disco! Puoi ancora usare l'unità ottica esternamente con l'aiuto del nostro cavo USB per Unità Ottica SATA.
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Allinea la spina del cavo SATA con la presa sull'unità e connettila bene.
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Collega il connettore USB al tuo portatile e la tua unità ottica è pronta all'uso.
There is a small metal button in the front of the drive and you can use that to eject the drive if you were wondering.
Maybe that explain the eject button mechanism maybe….
Die neue SSD wurde durch das Laufwerk ersetzt aber leider wird jetzt die alte HDD nicht mehr erkannt. Hatte schon ein anderer das Problem?
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Per riassemblare il dispositivo, seguire queste istruzioni in ordine inverso.
Per riassemblare il dispositivo, seguire queste istruzioni in ordine inverso.
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3 Commenti
Great guide, thank you! Took me 40 minutes to complete. I also cleaned my cooler fan though as i regularly do. I have moderate experience, Took apart my macbook (and other stuff too) several times. Not doing this daily though. Everyone can do this when keeping the basic rules in mind: Take your time and space and use quality tools.
This is not a a1278 unibody MacBook Pro. A1278 MacBooks backs are one solid metal piece not two separate pieces. This guide is for a different MacBook Pro.
Brad Burgeson - Replica
This guide isn’t for a pro; it’s a MacBook unibody.
Nicholas -
So, it turns out that Apple used the model code A1278 for quite a few different Mac models, including both Pro and non-Pro versions! This guide is for the non-Pro Macbooks. There’s also one for the Pro models with the same A1278 identifier.
tempelmann - Replica