Utilizza questa guida per sostituire o aggiornare il disco rigido.

  1. Prima di iniziare, scollegare l'iMac dall'alimentazione e poggiarlo su una superficie morbida come indicato.
    • Prima di iniziare, scollegare l'iMac dall'alimentazione e poggiarlo su una superficie morbida come indicato.

    • Far aderire una ventosa accanto a ciascuno dei due angoli superiori del pannello di vetro.

    • Per far aderire le nostre ventose, per prima cosa posizionarle con la maniglia semovente parallela alla superficie del pannello di vetro. Tenendo delicatamente la ventosa contro il vetro, sollevare la maniglia semovente finché non è parallela all'altra maniglia.

    • Se la ventosa non aderisce, provare a ripulire il pannello di vetro e la ventosa con un solvente delicato.

    imac 2544 2.5 core i5 i touched the motherboard to supply and it spark now it is not powering

    please tell me the directions

    thanks witting for answering .

    tahir - Replica

    Im sorry to say, If it sparked when you touched it your motherboard s now fried. You need a new one.

    Robert Wacker -

    Very easy to lift the glass out. Don't jerk too hard.

    kctipton - Replica

    Success replacing the stock ST31000528AS with a STBD3000100 (Dead 1TB to new 3TB, both Seagate). First try. Using another Mac and a quality Firewire 800 cable, I formatted it using Target Disk mode, 2 partitions (defaults, except I made the first one bigger than the second). To the second, smaller one, I copied a bootable Install OS X Mavericks partition. Tried to boot. It booted, and I installed; nary a glitch. (Running the Installer over Firewire would have been faster, but I didn't want to reboot this machine.)

    See part 2 below...

    Matthew Elvey - Replica

    (Part 2:)

    I SKIPPED steps 6, 7 AND 8! Instead, after doing Step 5, I noticed I then had enough room and cable length to access the screws in Step 11 if I lifted the LCD up an inch or so, rotated it about 20-30 degrees clockwise and moved it a couple inches toward the base, and put it down. After removing them (Step 11), I propped up the LCD (with a spare spudger) and had enough room to do Steps 12, 13, and 14 without much difficulty. Felt safer/less work and risk than not skipping steps 6-8. No risk of the damage Ersan and Michael caused performing Step 7!

    Matthew Elvey -

    I just edited that step to add a note about the shortcut.

    Matthew Elvey -

    What the ???

    Geoff Wacker has REJECTED my edit:

    I wonder why. What's the deal, Geoff? I mean I'd understand if I suggested folks didn't need the suction cups, as that could cut into iFixit's income stream, but what's wrong with suggesting that a few steps aren't needed? It worked for me; the EMC 2389 I fixed is humming along with a new 3TB HD I installed while skipping those steps.

    Matthew Elvey -

    I did not have to remove a single cable! After undoing the torx screws from the sides, I was able to rotate the LCD out of the way enough to reach all the screws holding in the ODD bracket. One of them was a bit challenging to get to, but I never felt that I was risking the cables by leaving them connected. Also, it wasn't totally clear, but you have to actually remove the ODD itself from the ODD bracket - 4 torx screws. The SDD mounts into the hard drive enclosure, then the enclosure is screwed into the bracket. Those holes (enclosure <-> Bracket) did not line up correctly for me, and I had to go with only three of them connected in the end. Seems to work fine.

    cdansmith1 - Replica

    Another comment on DATA & LCD Temp. Sensor cables: I had to remove the vertical sync, and the backlight cable, however, if you have an assistant or/can carefully rotate the screen clockwise/and then have it held up about 5" to 6" at a slight angle, you do not need to remove LCD data cable or LCD thermal cable, however - IMPORTANT: you must have a second pair of hands/or way to securely prop up the LCD. Also, don't rotate too much, since then you will pull out LCD data cable, and it renders the whole exercise moot, or can damage the cable or connector.

    MaximBorzov - Replica

    You don't need suction cups. The screen, held by magnets, can simply be pried off using a very thin blade such as a screw driver and fingers.

    Deepsurvival - Replica

    That's a bad idea. using a metal tool to pry off glass is likely to end with an expensive broken front glass.

    Suction cups are common. Find a couple and do it the safe way. I use some cheap ones that came with iPhone repair kit.

    max damage -

    Hello, I just need to replace a slightly cracked screen on my iMac. Where is it best to place the suction cups? Thanks in advance

    michelemiller0 - Replica

    No need for suction cups, I just stuck my nails (short like guys usually have) between the top part of the screen and body, and it came off easily. I've never done it before, so it seems to be very easy.

    Nikolas Lintulaakso - Replica

    Nails worked for me too

    Rob Dale - Replica

    Just completed the replacement of the optical drive with an SSD using an OWC Data Doubler kit. Attempted to remove the optical drive without disconnecting any cables but found it a bit fiddly to orient the screen for good access. I bit the bullet and disconnected them and found the process less daunting than I imagined. Reconnecting them was similarly straightforward if you're careful.

    Tip: you can skip the step for removing the optical drive thermal sensor connector from the motherboard. Still need to remove the sensor from the optical drive but you can leave that hanging and reattach it to the SSD later.

    osienna - Replica

    I have an odd question -- I want to remove the polarizer from the LCD. With some monitors this is trivial, others not so much. My question is whether it is bonded to the Liquid crystal, or whether it's loose, or cutting it with a razor blade would remove it. Obviously I'd like to know before I go to the trouble of dismantling the thing... Thanks. Paul

    Paul Kwiat - Replica

    I use Garmin GPS suction cup. Work very well

    jc3Dcx - Replica

    I’ve just successfully installed a 1TB SSD in place of my optical drive thanks to the information here- thank you to everyone who has contributed!

    3 comments- the procedure described here seems to vary between HD replacement and dual HD/optical drive replacement. This can be confusing at times.

    Expect there to be minor differences between the layout described and what you find when you open up your iMac. There are also, surprisingly, differences between the HD enclosure description, and the article provided by ifixit.

    I was able to replace the DVD/HD enclosure single-handedly without fully removing the LCD, or deconnecting any of the cables (steps 5-11). It’s a bit cramped, and fiddly, but I was not happy removing any of the cables despite watching videos, etc., since they all seemed to involve applying more force than I was comfortable with. A more detailed description of how to release them might have helped, but even here, there may be minor variations even within the 2389 model.

    Good luck!

    ivan birks - Replica

  2. Sollevare il pannello di vetro in perpendicolare rispetto alla superficie dello schermo LCD, affinché sia possibile sgombrare i piedini di montaggio in acciaio inseriti lungo il lato sottostante al bordo superiore del pannello di vetro.
    • Sollevare il pannello di vetro in perpendicolare rispetto alla superficie dello schermo LCD, affinché sia possibile sgombrare i piedini di montaggio in acciaio inseriti lungo il lato sottostante al bordo superiore del pannello di vetro.

    • Estrarre il panello di vetro dal bordo inferiore dell'iMac e riporlo da parte con attenzione.

    • Durante la reinstallazione, pulire con attenzione la parte interna del pannello di vetro e la superficie dello schermo LCD, poiché la polvere e le impronte digitali saranno sgradevolmente visibili durante l'utilizzo della macchina.

    What's the best product to clean the face of the LCD?

    Steve Speirs - Replica

    Microfiber Cloth

    Leonardo Fournier -

    • Rimuovere le otto viti Torx T10 da 8 mm che fissano il display al case esterno.

      • Le due ultime immagini mostrano in dettaglio ciascun lato del display.

    Replacing the screws , especially the two uppermost ones , is awkward due to the magnets attracting the screws off the Torx driver

    Anoop Sahal - Replica

    I’ve done an HDD replacement on an A1174 (and I’m about to do this model), which is nightmarish, but by far the best solution I found was to use a bit of Blu Tack or the equivalent on the driver.

    Boris - Replica

    I’ve just replaced the screws by making a little tube from paper and wrapping it round each screw to keep it contained. A cut-down straw would be perfect for job.

    Guy Whittaker - Replica

    • Sollevare leggermente il bordo superiore del display dal case esterno.

    • Non sollevare eccessivamente. Sono presenti numerosi cavi che collegano il display alla scheda logica.

    After sliding the display slightly towards the top edge, enough for the bottom edge to clear the retainers, an alternative is to raise the bottom edge out. Then unplug the LED backlight power cable (this step + 2), unplug the LCD thermal sensor cable (this step + 4), unplug the display data cable (this step + 3), and the display may be rotated over the top edge while leaving the vertical sync cable attached (this step + 1).

    Jerry - Replica

    • Estrarre il connettore del cavo della sincronizzazione verticale dal connettore femmina sulla scheda di azionamento LED, vicino all'angolo superiore sinistro dell'iMac.

    Do not try to pull the plug off the circuit board as it's soldered. Pull the cable sideways out of the socket.

    Alex Campbell - Replica

    Skipped step 5-10. I used two 5-6" chopsticks to prop up the display, this gave me more than enough room to complete the rest of the steps. I only had to disconnect the 3 cables are directly connected to the hard drive. Replacing the Seagate hard drive with another Seagate hard drive eliminated any cable issues. Now I have 2TB SSDH

    jaime martinez - Replica

    I was also able to skip steps 5 thru 10, which meant no messing with any cables except for the two for the HD (steps 13+14). Used a credit card to start the removal of glass panel (step 2) - much easier than I imagined. After removing display screws (step 3) I simply had a friend hold up the display's bottom edge as far as the cables would allow (careful not to stress at connection to logic board) and this provided enough room to remove the HD bracket screws (step 11), detach the HD cables, and remove the HD. Was replacing a failed 1TB Seagate with a 3TB Seagate so no problems with compatibility when reattaching the HD cables and everything worked fine when I restored the OS and data to the new HD. No fan issues. I did take great care to not get fingerprints on the inside of the glass panel and to blow off any dust specks before reinstalling it. It was a bit tricky to get the new HD back in without letting the magnets get a hold of it, so thanks for the warning posted here about that!

    Chuckles McBunny - Replica

    On my mid 2010 Imac I found it was not necessary to disconnect any cables (except of course those attached to the drive). Simply angle the monitor away from the case to a safe distance without stressing any cables and secure with tape. With a stubby screw driver it was easy to access and remove the drive.

    Michael Husselbee - Replica

    • Ruotare il display dal case esterno affinché sia possibile scollegare il cavo di alimentazione della retroilluminazione LED dall'apposita scheda di azionamento.

    • Scollegare il cavo di alimentazione della retroilluminazione LED premendo il meccanismo di blocco ed estraendo al contempo il connettore dal relativo connettore femmina (verso il bordo inferiore dell'iMac).

    This is real tricky it is fragile and you have to pull it along the logic board.

    John - Replica

    • Prendere la linguetta di plastica fissata al blocco del cavo dati del display e ruotarla verso l'alto.

    • Estrarre il cavo dati del display direttamente dal connettore sulla scheda logica.

    • Non sollevare il cavo dati del display poiché il connettore è molto fragile. Estrarre il cavo in senso parallelo alla superficie della scheda logica.

    This cable is very short, I would remove it before any of the others. First time I did this, I didn't realize this and this cable just popped out of it's socket. Luckily, the board wasn't damaged.

    maccentric - Replica

    i damaged my (step7) cable, and my iMac screen won't work, how to fix this?

    Ersan Rasubala - Replica

    I did the same thing. The pins are VERY easy to bend. I replaced it with a new cable from this company.

    Waiting for it to arrive.

    Michael -

    I wish this step was listed as a warning before lifting the monitor and as the first cable to undo. I broke it as it popped up and out, had to trash my Mac and I am stuck with a new hard drive.

    Frank1701a - Replica

    I followed the directions to a T and everything worked going back together. That cable in step 7 is delicate so one must be very careful.

    dustynnelson -

    Same problem for me. I damaged this cable and am ordering one now.

    This is a tough step so I would also suggest removing this cable first.

    lyleberman - Replica

    Yes, damaged mine too. It is better to take it out of the LCD and install it carefully on the logic board, then install it to the LCD.

    asle -

    Ok finally got the cable and was able to successfully finish the project.

    That video cable is ROUGH to install.

    lyleberman - Replica

    The same thing happened for me. That cable was by far the shortest and a slight pull of the display up caused the connector to come free. Luckily it wasn't damaged by this. It was pretty unclear to me how that connector fit in as well. It slides in and out parallel to the surface of the mother board, up towards the top of the iMac to unplug and down towards the bottom to plug in. I agree, if I were to do this repair again that is the first interior cable I would disconnect. Maybe a closeup of the cable plugged in and unplugged to show exactly how it engages and disengages would be good as well.

    danieljseta - Replica

    It is fine to remove the cable from the logic board when when you remove the screen. But when when assembling back together I found it better to take the LVDS cable out of the LCD and install it carefully on the logic board. Then connect it to the top of the LCD. Also the connector to the LCD is much more solid and not so easy to bend.

    asle - Replica

    This is by far the best way round to do this as trying to refit the cable to the logic board is a complete nightmare.

    Russ -

    I agree with asle, manipulating the display end of the cable would be easier - at least it cannot be any harder then manipulating the motherboard end.

    Jerry -

    well I did all t these steps and now the iMac won't turn on at all. I guess the big cable is not connected to the board as it used to... Mac is out of warranty so it's going out the door. RIP

    Gilbert Palau - Replica

    this thing is super fragile. i had to order a new one. i'd recommend removing the other end at the top of the display.

    m Burm - Replica

    this part is not complicated if you understand at first how the lock works.. remove the lock is easy, reassemble the cable and connect it is very problematic because the space to work is very tiny, but if you are carefully, it should be not a problem . try to see some videos from youtube first!

    Cristian Pizarro - Replica

    This totally blows.. If you want to do this correctly and not destroy your computer over this step, - OWC’s video will show you EXACTLy what to do with the display cable ..

    Luis Garcia - Replica

    • Scollegare il connettore del cavo del sensore termico dell'LCD dal connettore femmina sulla scheda logica.

    • Se la ventola gira sempre alla massima velocità dopo il rimontaggio, controlla questa connessione o il cavo del sensore termico del disco rigido.

    Be very careful - this connector very difficult to disconnect, and you have a high risk of pulling the cable pins out of the connect. If you have disconnected the 3 other cables, you can have a helper rotate the screen out of the way while you remove the hard drive.

    Brian Tsai - Replica

    I found this connector impossible to remove

    Anoop Sahal - Replica

    I also found this extremely difficult to remove. Tiny cable with a death grip. I tried using two spudgers, my fingernails, and walking it out. In the end, I used two spudgers and pried it up, using leverage from the clip to the right.

    Also, i recommend setting the iMac upright for this. I rested the screen on my chest while I dual wielded my spudgers.

    Alex Grayson - Replica

    eer ist zerbrochen! hoffe krieg ihn dann trotzdem wieder rein

    Peter Pawlowicz - Replica

    This was connector was impossible to remove. Like a previous commenter, I did this with the machine upright and with the LCD Panel resting on my upper chest. Ultimately, the pins pulled out of the socket! Once they were out, it was relatively easy to remove the socket. I completed the drive replacement, (installed a 1 TB SSD) and then replaced the pins in the socket and reassembled the machine. One mental error I made was I couldn’t remember the correct orientation for the Black and White wires in the socket. In looking at the photos here on iFixIt, it looks like I reversed their orientation. However, the machine seems to be running fine. I installed macos High Sierra and migrated my data from my old HD and the machine has been running for two days now. I would hate to have to go back in and remove the socket and reverse the wire orientation. Anyone have advise on this?

    jmaher - Replica

    In followup to my previous post, I launched TechTool Pro 9.6.1 and ran the Sensors Test. All Sensors tests were passed. These included:

    LCD Proximity, LCD Thermal Compensation 2, LCD Proximity, Thermal Compensation. Machine seems to be running fine.

    jmaher -

    • Estrarre con cautela il cavo verso il bordo superiore dell'iMac e sollevarlo dal case esterno, facendo attenzione a non tirare altri cavi.

    Aggiungi Commento

    • Estrarre il connettore del sensore temperatura del disco rigido verso il bordo superiore dell'iMac per scollegarlo dal connettore femmina sulla scheda logica.

    I don't think this is necessary, I'd just leave it since you're removing the other end from the drive.

    maccentric - Replica

    Want to add a comment on this w/reference to HDD & thermal sensor. HDD used: WD1002FAEX - 1TB WD Black. Temperature sensor on this model iMac has a little tab/plastic protrusion, Apple HDD actually has specific opening for it. With this HDD/any after market WD HDD you should use small electrical wire cutters, and just cut off the offending piece of plastic from the iMac sensor. Insert it as specified, closest to SATA/PCB board, take a picture first before taking it out, and it works like a champ!

    MaximBorzov - Replica

    Sure enough, I had the same problem of the temperature sensor not fitting because of the plastic protrusion on the Apple connector. Instead of using a wire cutter to remove the protrusion, I filed it with a metal file (careful to place a rag cloth underneath, where all the filing dust would drop). It fit wonderfully after that.

    girlscandotoo -

    I am getting ready to swap out my wife's drive for an SSD. Since there are no moving parts do i need to be concerned with the temperature sensor?

    I picked up a 240GB PNY CS1200 Series drive. Its smaller than the original but she doesnt use that much anyways.

    Robert Hancock - Replica

    • Rimuovere le due viti Torx T10 da 9 mm che fissano la staffa superiore del disco rigido al case esterno.

    T8 screw on my Mid-2010.

    rch - Replica

    • Ruotare leggermente il disco rigido dal case esterno e sollevarlo dai piedini di montaggio verso il bordo superiore dell'iMac.

    • Fare attenzione a non entrare in contatto con la scheda AirPort durante il sollevamento del disco rigido dal suo alloggiamento.

    Instead of trying to not hit the Airport card, spend 10 seconds to unscrew the one screw, pull it out of the socket and set it aside.

    maccentric - Replica

    WATCH IT! When pulling out the hard drive or putting in the new one, stay clear of the strong magnets that hold the glass pane in place. I was so focused on following those steps closely, and when I had the HDD clear I kind of relaxed a bit too much and – "CLONK" – the magnet pulled the HDD and ruined it.

    Roberting - Replica

    I have fitted a barracuda tb sata hdd ,i have partitioned the drive in d/utility .I have made a bootable us. stick containing os x and it says mac osx cannot be installed to your computer , even though itis displYed as verified in disk utility .......Plese help me !!!!!!

    therumourcastro - Replica

    • Scollegare i connettori SATA di alimentazione e dati dai rispettivi connettori femmina, estraendo ciascuno di essi dal disco rigido.

    Computer doesn’t see the new hard drive. Mid year 2010 iMac, #2389. Removed Seagate Barracuda 7200 500 gig drive. Installed Toshiba 7200, 1tb drive. Computer starts, screen lights but I get a ?. So I started in recovery mode but it doesn’t see a hard drive to load to. I have an external backup and it dies see that drive. Tried reinstalling the os over the internet but when it looks for a hard drive it doesn’t see one. The fan is running…starts off slowly but as timne goes by it gradyally speeds up.

    Any help is apprecioated

    Paul Theriault - Replica

    • Prima di scollegare il cavo del sensore termico, prendi nota del suo orientamento. È estremamente importante rimontare il connettore con il giusto orientamento, altrimenti le ventole gireranno sempre alla massima velocità. Se il tuo nuovo disco è dotato di piedini multipli, inserisci il connettore vicino alle connessioni SATA e alla scheda PCB.

    • Scollega il cavo del sensore termico del disco rigido da quest'ultimo.

    Aggiungi Commento

    • Rimuovere le due viti Torx T8 che fissano la staffa superiore del disco rigido a quest'ultimo.

    • Rimuovere la staffa superiore dal disco rigido.

    Aggiungi Commento

    • Rimuovere i due piedini Torx T8 dall'altro lato del disco rigido.

    Aggiungi Commento

    • Rimuovere con attenzione il pezzo di schiuma EMI sulla parte anteriore del disco rigido.

    • Non dimenticare di trasferire il componente alla nuova unità.

    Aggiungi Commento


Per riassemblare il dispositivo, segui queste istruzioni in ordine inverso.

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I went through all the steps and now when I attempt to boot, I hear the apple chime, but I get nothing on screen.

I thought this might have to do with a loose cord, but when I reattached the suspect cord (the display data cable) it did not resolve the problem.

Anyone have any ideas as to what could be causing the display to malfunction?

Monty - Replica

I had this problem as well, caused by a small cable coming from the display. It is a Sync Cable with a small 2 Pin Molex connector, and it popped up and got hidden when I removed the display, which caused me to forget to re-attach it during reassembly.

capone99 -

Question for capone99: where did this cable come from? Was it one of the five specified for unplugging in this guide? Or are you saying it came loose by itself during installation?

lewisthegreat -

Did anyone ever solve this? Having the same issue.

rowanevan -

In step 14, the Apple connector for the hard drive has a locking mechanise that doesn't fit most replacement hard drives. I got an identical hard drive that doesn't have a provision for the connector. A little bit of shaving or filing of the plastic connector did the trick.

mercadoamiel - Replica

I want to use a (WD20EARX) 2TB hard drive which does NOT have a socket matching the old hard drive for the thermal sensor plug, but rather 8 jumper pins. Can I use this drive as a replacement, and if so what do I do about the thermal sensor?

Robert - Replica

I replaced my hard drive Samsung 1TB. I put a Seagate Barracuda 1TB instead.

I had the problem of thermal sensor that was not adapted to Seagate. I cut it in half cutter, I connect and everything works perfectly.

castusfrancois - Replica

And, finally, additional tool which was super awesome: FLASHLIGHT. Small, flashlight is awesome when just examining the internals prior to removal/especially if you have a way to prop up the LCD panel, since it will cover the main board, and you need some idea as to where what is.

MaximBorzov - Replica

Thanx everybody! I`m new hear & need all the help I can get!

vpkc15 - Replica

This was a great guide and worked perfectly for me. Replaced my non-working 500GB for 1TB new drive. After the installing got an error "folder with question mark". Took it to the apple store had them install a new OS X for free and it is working great now......

singhaviation - Replica

Hi Tim , did you resolve the issue .I used internet recovery n it still fails

therumourcastro - Replica

What I did was:

- Substitute the broken internal hdd with a new one (WD to Segate)

- Change the disk bay to an SSD

Problems I haced:

1) thermal sensor between wd and segate. My fix was to open up the plastic piece that connects to the HDD and separate the cables. Then I taped each cable with isolating material and connected the cables to the bins by hand (praying they would not pop out before I was finished). Actually I noticed that the tape was filling the space in the cavity, making the cables stay in place: fans not spinning crazy.

2) The SSD adapter I bought was a little bit weird and would not fit in the black plastic case of the CD drive. My fix: polish irregularities away from the plastic support. In the end it worked and the drive is now attached

3) Screen connection cable. This one was THE WORST. The cable is really, really delicate and by trying to connect it back after I was finished I broke it in three different ways. Here I suggest PATIENCE and delicacy! I still got it to work though :)

Christian Dallago - Replica

Christian, for the thermal sensor, how did you know which bins / cables to put together? what was the number / configuration of pins on your new drive? any insight you might have here would be appreciated

geemac -

Excellent guide. Managed to swop out my hdd for a ssd using this guide. The ribbon cable in step 7 is one of the more difficult steps to deal with. Be careful not to break the socket.

howeikeong - Replica

Excellent guide. Managed to swop out my hdd with a ssd using this guide. The cable in step 7 has to be carefully dealt with though.

howeikeong - Replica


I'll always choose the DIY option as I don't like paying for labour. This time (with virtually zero experience of taking anything apart, never mind my precious iMac) I wondered if I'd bitten off more than I could chew. I spent a good bit of time watching videos and reading walk through guides before attempting a HDD - SSD replacement. This guide was one of the best and I feel I owe an account of my experience to anyone thinking of doing this.

Removing the glass was as easy as I expected it to be. I used 'the straw' method (mentioned in the comments here) to remove the screws, avoiding magnet attacks. When in the straw, you can quickly whip out the screws using the magnetic tip of your screwdriver. 2-3 were claimed when screws or straws slipped although it was easy to get them back with tweezers.

shawfamily53 - Replica


After peeking under the LCD I was alarmed to see how short the vertical sync cable was in mine (4-5 cm from top to bottom). It turned out to be quite a long cable but I had to prize some of it away from some adhesive/adhesive tape towards the bottom.

The LED backlight power cable was very stiff to remove. I had to be careful not to force it even when pressing quite hard to unlock (might have been me?).

Next up, the dreaded display data cable. No problems disconnecting this although it would later give me a big headache.

I found the LCD sensor very fiddly. I have pretty small hands yet, fingers/finger nails seem inadequate for such a small cable and socket. Of all the cables I removed this was the one I expected to have damaged. I pulled on the cable through frustration as I couldn't get a hold of the plastic plug.

shawfamily53 - Replica


Display and HD temp sensor came out without any bother.

My dead HD also came out without too much trouble although the SATA and thermal sensor cables were quite stiff.

I should mention (at this point) that I had decided to replace my old HHD with an SSD.

I therefore decided to completely remove the thermal sensor cable with a view to using 'fan control' software after replacement. At first, I assumed that the drive would be facing upwards and consequently put the sponge from my old HD on the outside of the 2.5 - 3.5 mounting bracket I'd bought. This also lead to me putting the upper mounting bracket on the wrong side when in actual fact, the mounting bracket would fix back in with the new SSD hanging upside down and sponge on the drive itself (not that this matters. It will ultimately be on it's side when fitted anyway).

With new bracket in place, the SATA cables were a little bit short of where the plugs were. The plugs needed forcing in to line with the sockets. Some slight manipulation required here.

shawfamily53 - Replica


Complications arose when connecting back up (the part that isn't in any guides).

Once again, the LCD sensor cable was tricky fuelling concern of possible damage.

The display data cable cost me a good chunk of afternoon. Without the iMac being upright on it's stand (OWC method of process) it's so difficult to see where this wafer thin cable should connect. I tried moving various props to hold the LCD at a different height and angle as well as moving an LED spotlight about (red hot). The Airport card also obstructs any clear view of both plug and socket. On top of that there's the locking tab to get back in place without touching the logic board.

Some time later, I was fairly (but not 100%) sure that it was locked in place.

After plugging in the other cables, keeping the screen and glass dust free was also quite challenging.

shawfamily53 - Replica


So to the moment of truth. Booting up in recovery mode.

I heard the start up chime but the screen remained black. Back on the Internet to check diagnostics (noticing comments at the top of this thread). On further inspection after taking my Mac apart a 2nd time (in a fraction of time it took originally) I noticed that my nemesis (the display data cable) had either come out on reassembly, disassembly or had not been plugged in correctly in the first place. Several slow mo web videos later I finally nailed it.

I'm currently running a 'Time Machine' backup (6 hours with the fan running at full tilt) but am hopefully on track.

Will report back if there are issues. No news will be good news.

shawfamily53 - Replica

I found when replacing hard drive the most difficult task is to replug the Display data cable back into the logic board. There is just so little room to work, I damaged the data cable plug contacts and the display would not work. For me work around was to order replacement data cable and install first on logic board before trying to mount and connect other display cables. And installing data cable to Display socket last. This end is larger and more robust up near the top edge of the Display giving one much more room to work.

jackshrawder - Replica

I successfully completed this repair. Went from 500GB Seagate to 1TB WD Blue.

Problems I had are limited to the thermal connector would not fit the hard drive I bought. I'm pretty sure the pins on my new drive are for an 8-pin thermal instead of a 4-pin, and I just left it unplugged. The fans spin at full speed now, but that's hardly a deal-breaker.

Corvallis Computer - Replica

I am about to replace my original HD with 4TB Seagate SHDD. My goal was to clone my SHDD before installing. When connecting my SHDD to USB port, my SHDD cannot be found via DiskUtility. The cabling is correct since alternative HD (low density) can be found. Any suggestions? I am using Yosemite (10.10.5).

kvanwinckel - Replica

I ran into the cable temp sensor issue when I replaced a Western Digital (8-pin connector) with a Seagate SSHD (4-pin connector). To resolve it I purchased the OWC temp sensor kit for 2009-2010 iMacs. Unfortunately it did not work with the sensor installed on top of the spindle. The problem is that there is not of clearance and it ends up touching the back on the display and when the screws are reinstalled the computer will not turn on.

OWC's product almost works as described, but is not the best solution. I recommend opening your iMac up to see what type of drive you have and getting the official temp sensor adapter cable from and Apple part supplier (on eBay too). They are around $20 and there is one for each drive manufacturer. The easiest solution is to buy a drive from the same manufacturer and it most likely will have the same sensor plug. I know that some mods can be made to the cable end to get it to fit, but I don't see how the 8-pin plug could be modified to be put into a 4-pin jack.

jehayes68 - Replica

Replaced the 500GB hard drive to a 2TB hard drive, was gonna put a SSD in optical bay as well but ordered a mSATA drive instead of SATA by accident. Overall was pretty easy but very painful trying to reconnect the Display cord. All in all... I've worked on my now 4th apple computer... and 4th computer of all time... and if I can do it you can do it, Make sure your new HARD Drive is the same brand as the one that comes with macbook. I just had to sand down the connection for thermal sensor a little but otherwise it fits without hassle.

scottmcintyre - Replica

A year after 'war and peace' (above) and all is well. SSD works a dream. Have been using 'Fan Control' from day 1 with no issues to date.

shawfamily53 - Replica

I did this around 3 years ago. There's a problem when connecting the new hard drive with the hard drive cable. I'm using a 500GB WD Blue and there seems to be a "tooth" on the iMac connector that won't fit the WD Blue. The only solution was to file off that small plastic tooth. I also didn't need suction cups to remove the glass panel. I accidentally discovered another way, when I was running my finger nail around the seams, it popped up. I wouldn't suggest it though.

mercadoamiel - Replica

As much as I appreciate IFixIt guides this one falls short of their usual high standard.

There are several omissions that can lead to a failed repair.

I wanted to say much more but it would not fit on this page, so briefly:

Failed to mention importance of opening system to determine original brand of drive installed (Seagate, Western Digital, Samsung).

Failed to mention need to get same brand so that thermal sensor could be attached to new drive.

Failed to mention without thermal sensor attached fan will continuously run at full speed very loudly.

Failed to mention need to trim off polarization tab from thermal sensor connector on Western Digital drives.

Failed to mention need to trim 8 pin thermal sensor block on Western Digital drives down to 6 pins so that sensor can be flipped yet keep thermal sensor wires connected to the second set of pins closest to the SATA connector.

Failed to mention that lifting the LCD slowly as cables can be glued in place and need to be freed up or risk damaging.

And more...

X Gempler - Replica

I replaced my 2011 iMac WD HD with a WD, it might be a different model…..I used OWC for the process, they didn't say anything about the thermal sensor except to use their harness, which I could not fit.

And when I took the old HD out, I did not see the cable above they are showing at all? any ideas? Fans seem to be running a bit more……also I did not have the little foam for the back-side, will that hurt anything?

My TechTool Pro says all is well.

BTW-if you get the blinking folder, go online and get the tools to format disc and install your OS. (Disk Repair)

the guys at apple couldn't tell tell me that and I spent several hours looking at a blinking folder!

jaa - Replica

My iMac …mid year 2010, 2389. I had a failed Seagate Barracuda, 7200.12 , 500 Gbyte. I installed a Toshiba 1TB 7200 drive. Now the computer starts (chime sounds) and I get a ? . I plugged in my backup Seagate and the computer see it but restoring with time machine fails. I started the computer in Internet recovery mode and it attempts to load the OS but when I get to the window where it asks what drive to load it to, it doesn’t see a hard drive. Regarding the fan, it seems to work correctly as far as I can tell. It starts off running slowly and as the machine runs longer the fan speeds up.

So can someone tell me what to do to get the computer to “see” the new drive? ( I selected this drive from the iFixit suggested list of drives.)



Paul Theriault - Replica

Okay, so I got it running. The trick in my case was to start it with the “Option” key method. Put the external drive with the backup, or a thumb drive with the image into the USB port and start the machine while holding the option key and proceed from there. Walked through the steps to partition and mount the drive and then load it with the operating system. Takes a while but worked a treat. Then after the operating system was happy I used Time Machine to get everything from the old drive transferred to the new drive. Also down loaded “Macs Fan Control” to calm the furious fan.

Hope this helps someone


Paul Theriault

Paul Theriault - Replica

How will I install a new OS X SYSTEM on a new HD ? on my iMac

Henery - Replica

As the computer restarts, hold down the Command (⌘) – Option (⌥) – R combination immediately upon hearing the startup chime.

Hold the keys until the animated globe appears on the screen. “Starting Internet Recovery,” the message reads. ”This may take a while.”

A Wi-Fi menu appears. Internet Recovery needs an Internet connection to load the recovery tools from Apple’s servers. Click the menu to display the available Wi-Fi networks, and then select one to connect to.

Tip: If you’re connected to the Internet using Ethernet, you don’t have to connect to a Wi-Fi network during Internet Recovery.

If this isn’t an open Wi-Fi network, you’ll be asked to type in your password. Press Enter on the keyboard or click the checkmark symbol to continue.

After your Mac has connected to the Wi-Fi network, it’ll download a recovery system image from Apple’s servers and start from it, giving you access to the recovery tools.

This may take anywhere from a couple of minutes to up to an hour, or longer.

Choose the option Install OS X

sternbergbob -

How will I restore my OS X system on the new HD of my iMac 21”

Henery - Replica

I have replaced the HD , now Have to install OS X, What I do ?

Henery - Replica

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