Introduzione
Solo prerequisito.
Cosa ti serve
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Utilizzare l'estremità piatta di un inseritore per scollegare il connettore del disco rigido dal connettore femmina sulla scheda logica.
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Mediante la punta di un inseritore, scollegare il connettore del cavo del sensore infrarossi dal connettore femmina sulla scheda logica tirandolo verso l'alto.
This board component is very delicate, I screwed up my Mac Mini IR receiver and HDD led light by doing this wrong. PLEASE take your time to do this delicately.
I have the same problem. I damaged the connecter for IR Sensor which is on the Logic Board.
Is there a way to fix it?
macnaf@orange.fr
Michel -
On my 2012 mac mini, the IR sensor was just soldered to the board--no connector that you could snap out. I have never used the remote with it, so I just let it disconnect. But I did have a few moments of panic while I remembered what the IR was for.
AG -
Anche a me e' successa la stessa cosa : si sono staccati i pin saldati alla piastra madre e non ho potuto riattaccare lo spinotto dell' IR sensor....esiste un modo per ripararlo?
This connector can be repaired with the right tools and know how. Using an SMD hot air station or possibly even a professional quality soldering iron with a needle point tip is how you would approach it. I repaired mine—which I busted loose, of course by rushing things and pulling too hard—using a hot air station, but it was very tedious work requiring magnifying head gear and special low temp SMD soldering paste. Not an easy fix even with the right tools.
S. M. -
Yes, this is extremely fragile. A couple of the pins on the logic board broke off. They are very tiny pins that are secured to the board surface with solder. I was very careful with it too, but they broke nevertheless. There is no repairing that when it happens. Thus, I have no IR sensor (which I never used) and no front LED (minor loss - not worth the cost of a new logic board). Works fine otherwise.
Mannn this part is difficult. Tks for my girlfriend that disconected it for me. Hands of fary!
I also just snapped this off by levering at the wrong point. So this is just for the IR sensor and the flashing light? If so, I'll just ignore it and happily carry on with life without these two features that I never used or noticed! I've been searching for someone who can do the delicate welding to reconnect the 5 pins but if what you say is true I'll stop searching.
Recommend emphasizing even more in the instructions, the potential for disaster!
The pins connect into the edge of the connector, not the top or the bottom. So, you should pull it out parallel to the logic board in the direction of the wires, towards the front of the case.
When reassembling, it's easier to connect this before pushing the logic board in all the way.
Also: do not attempt to bend the pins upwards to install, and then bend it back. I broke 3 pins that way.
It easier if you unhook the wires from a couple of tabs on the side attached to the case. That allows more leeway to manipulate the connector. There are two plastic tabs, and the wires are routed between them so that they do not move out of place.
I suggest taking a good close-up photo so you can see how the parts fit together. That's how I was able to figure out what I was doing wrong.
TerribleHacker: "pull it out parallel to the logic board" – no, or at least not on mine. The pins are vertical and the socket has two vertical tongues that fit into grooves on the plug. Vertical is the way to go. In cases like this I use tweezers to pull gently on the wires, and if possible the plug – but the latter is very difficult in this case.
Yep. Like others here I no longer have IR. Be VERY careful removing this!
TAKE YOUR TIME!!! I used the spudger and pushed up from the back on the plastic, NOT the wires. And I had no issues. Pulling on the wires scared me way to much. Pull up vertically.
Before attempting to remove the connector, use 5 minute epoxy to glue the wires together. Do this in several small batches and apply with a toothpick, right up to the plastic connector, but not glued to the connector (to risky and not necessary). Be especially careful not to glue to the motherboard. You basically want all 5 wires glued together as if they were a ribbon cable. After the epoxy is cured, pry up from underneath the wires to remove from the motherboard.
I could remove the HDD and then was able to use the folded spudger from the hdd side of the motherboard to _easily_ pull the connector up from its corners (not via the wires).
I lost my IR sensor and HDD led light as well. Everything was moving along smoothly and I got cocky with the spudger and lifted the connection out of the board. I reassembled with the upgrades and it ran just fine. Like others, I had never used the remote and couldn’t see the HDD light where the mini sat on my desk anyway.
The best way is to first remove the logic board already 0.5 cm out, like discribed in the next steps. Look closely at the wires, they tell you how far you can go! Then take a cotton swab, cut off the cotton ends ending witha plastic stick, bend the end to get it easily under the wires and pull it carefully upwards. The connector then comes off in one piece.
The best way is to first remove the logic board already 0.5 cm out, like discribed in the next steps. Look closely at the wires, they tell you how far you can go! Then take a cotton swab, cut off the cotton ends ending witha plastic stick, bend the end to get it easily under the wires. Take both ends and pull it carefully when it is as close as possible to the connector. The connector then comes off in one piece.
Must really concur with Bas Meijer’s suggestion. Move the logic board slightly first then it is a breeze to get under the wires and lift up.
Does anyone know what is the name of the connector cable side ) I want to buy a new one as mine is damaged and repair it.
I am also wondering if I can purchase the side that was on the mother board?
Unfortunately I bent two of the pins in the process. Moving them back into position broke them, although I was very careful. I felt so stupid. Who the heck at apple thought this is a good design to connect things?? I thought the mini is already lost. Happy to read this cable is not super important, so I will carry on.
You can find the connectors for cheap on AliExpress. I recommend getting at least five of them because they are easy to destroy while trying to install them. Search for "IR board cable connector for Mac Mini A1347" - without the quotation marks. I've not yet been successful installing a new connector. I need a very thin, perhaps angled soldering iron tip to fit in between the connector and that metal post.
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Rimuovere le tre viti seguenti:
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Una vite Torx T8 da 5 mm o vite esagonale da 2 mm (vanno bene entrambi i cacciaviti)
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Una vite Torx T6 da 16,2 mm
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Un distanziatore Torx T6 da 26 mm
Hi, I can't remove the yellow screw, I don't even see it (it look like more like on this picture: http://static.macgeneration.com/img/2012...)
So I don't know what to do, I don't want to damage the tread (if there is actually one..) and I can't move the logic-board..
Do you hav any idea?
The "yellow screw" depicted in this picture doesn't exist in the Mac Mini late 2012, at least in mine. Well, to be more precise, it exists but was already removed when the fan was unscrewed (it was actually in the fan).
I found the same as Jeff.
For reassembly, note that the red T8/2mm hex screw doesn't screw all the way down. It is for the bottom lid to slide-lock onto. Don't look for a hole beneath it on the logic board.
this yellow screw come from fan , on the image in front missing exactly this one screw (yellow circle)
The yellow screw (fan stand off) on my late 2012, was removed with the fan.
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Infilare lo strumento per la rimozione della scheda logica del Mac Mini nei due fori evidenziati in rosso. Verificare che avvenga il contatto con il lato superiore del case esterno sotto la scheda logica prima di procedere con l'operazione.
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Tirare con attenzione l'attrezzo verso la scheda I/O. La scheda logica e il gruppo della scheda I/O dovrebbero scorrere leggermente fuori dal case esterno.
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Rimuovere l'attrezzo per la rimozione della scheda logica per Mac Mini.
If you're in a pinch and don't have time to order the removal tool, you can use two 2mm hex wrenches.
You can also use the probes from a Digital Multi-Meter. Just be very careful not to stab the pointed end into the casing. With a little care, you can get the logic board out.
On re-assembly, when you're putting the HD back in place, before you've pushed the logic board fully back into place, make sure the disk is in the right place for the antenna plate screw holes (step 8/9) or you'll have problems getting the screws back in. I did, and had to back up a few steps to realign the disk drive!
Look at all of the images. Initially, I took the text literally. I pulled the tool straight back without letting it pivot, and without success. I suggest the following additions: "The tool acts as a lever. Carefully pull the top of the tool down and toward the I/O board. The logic board and I/O board assembly should slightly slide out of the outer case."
If you don't have the removal tool you can just plug an ethernet cable into the I/O port and pull on it to help ease it out...if it's a bit stiff push on the fan duct at the same time...be gentle and it'll release...
I found that there is one step missing for removing the logic board. Once you have the removal tool in and pulling back check to see if you can push in on the taps that are on the outside of the logic board. On the right side if I had known this I would have tried pushing in on the tap and it might have released a little easier. There is not a good photo of the taps but in photo 17 between the pointer and index finger the tap is located on both right and left hands.
If was able to fashion a removal tool out of part of a metal binding clip. I just removed one of the handles and bend it into the proper shape using a vise. FYI, the holes are about 4.5mm apart.
I did this also. Worked fine.
I just pushed on one of the RAM slots and it slid out easily. No metal rods required!
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Estrarre il gruppo della scheda logica/scheda I/O dal case esterno affinché sia possibile accedere al connettore dell'alimentazione.
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Utilizzare le dita per scollegare il cavo C.C. in ingresso dalla scheda logica.
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Tirare il connettore del cavo di alimentazione verso il lato anteriore del Mac mini.
You can pull the board out about 1cm with the wires intact.
While you can remove this pin with your fingers as shown in the photo, putting back in proved frustrating by hand. I finally got out a forcep which allowed me to grab each side of the plug and push it in at a flat angle.
When reconnect it on the board, make it when the board is in the middle of the mac, or you will be not abble to do it!
I'm not a fan of pulling on cables so I used the flat end of the spudger and pried between logic board and light thicker end of the DC plug. This took some time but worked really well.
I found that slightly lifting the board allowed me to get the connector in a better position to rest on its female counterpart. Then with a smudger just push it into place.
When getting it back on during reassembly, your spudger is your best friend.
Do this when the logic board assembly is not completely inserted back in again.
If you removed the hard drive during disassembly, when reassembling you'll want to put it back before sliding the board back into place.
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Rimuovere con attenzione il gruppo della scheda logica dal Mac mini, facendo attenzione ai cavi che potrebbero incastrarsi.
In April, I purchased a late 2012 mini (MD387LL/A) - 2.5Ghz i5 with 500MB hard drive.
It looks like Apple now secures the drive to the tray with 3 screws. 2 on back side and one on front. This means the entire drive tray has to come out to remove the drive - it no longer just "lifts out" as in step 18. In order to remove the drive tray, you have to remove the power supply (step 22).
During reassembly, watch the power harness and connector from the power supply when reinserting the logic board assembly into the case. When the board is close enough for the connector to reach, re-attach it before inserting the board the rest of the way. I found that if the connector is lined up properly, it almost attaches itself.
Also be careful of the hard drive and IR sensor connectors.
Also, when you're re-assembling (especially with a tight squeeze if you've got dual drives), be sure that the internal AC power connector matches up in profile with the port outline on the rear plate of the main logic board assembly. If the two aren't mated identically, the black port plate won't mate flush with the aluminum case.
Speaker trademark? Is it a sony, or a Bose...
I think it is a bad quality speaker.What do you thick?
Does anyone know if the airport/bt board from a mac mini late 2012 can be retrofitted to the 2011 mini? this would add the airdrop functionality to the older device in theory and I have seen a similar procedure performed on MacBook pro's
When I pull out motherboard, I broke 39 16v capacitor underneath.. I don't understand what's I'm doing wrong. And why this happens? Or maybe I'm to fast. Now I need repair..
I did the same thing, except two caps popped off the board. Perhaps drinking half a fifth of whiskey before starting this project was unwise. Although, if the sucky SATA cable that came with the ifixit kit had worked in the first place, I wouldn't have had to pull the thing apart again to replace it with the OWC cable (which supposedly doesn't suck).
During reassembly, the SD Card reader end of the I/O Bezel will not go back in flat like the AC power connector end, thus the SD Card reader end protrudes about 0.5mm from the edge of the back of the MacMini, I tried took it out and put it back in many times but could not manage to push it all the way in. The truth is it is hard to notice and everything else works fine but it is annoying to see that tiny bit protrusion. Anyone else had this problem? or it was like this already before I took it out? i can't remember what was it like now.....
During this process, I took advantage of having the logic board out, checked the BR2032 battery, which tested nearly dead, and I replaced it with an ECR2032 battery. If you choose to do this, be careful with the moving and replacing of this button battery. There is a wee-little directional arrow on the ( - ) side of the battery holder, which means move the battery without prying towards the positive ( + ) side. One end of the battery then pops up to grab. I also tested the new replacement battery before putting it in. I used an AMPROBE BAT-200 Battery Tester.
So near and yet so far. Got as far as this stage only to fail.
If you look closely at the photo for this stage, just up and to the left of where you unplug the power cable, you will see a white wire going into a grey sleeve attached to a grey plastic plug of some description. That’s not what I have. What I have is five wires, two of which (one black, one brown) have tiny copper clips which suggests that they were attached to the logic board. The other three wires (two black, one grey) look like they were torn off and damaged during the removal. I’d post a photo but there doesn’t appear to be the facility for it.
C’est la vie.
I found that cloning the new SSD drive before installation sidesteps 'hybrid' drive issues.
I didn't disconnect the antenna cable since it's very tricky to reconnect that tiny connector.
The original drive in my unit is positioned at the bottom and I couldn't get that out without dissembling everything so I just left it in place and disconnected the cable.
I moved the logic board back about 2" to give me some wiggle room inserting the new drive.
I couldn't get the new drive to fit into place with the rubber washers inserted on the posts so I just used the posts instead which gave me some more room to push the new drive back far enough to fit into the positioning holes.
Even then the cable for the new drive took a lot of effort to connect to the board since I think the new drive still didn't fit perfectly above the older drive.
I used scotch tape to help position the new SSD.
Overall a huge speed improvement from the old spinner.
For me this was a more than moderately difficult project.
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It may just be my own experience, but the hard drive connectors appear to be "sensitive" to ANY pressure, even when (re)connected properly. I found that I had to repeatedly re-seat them when re-installing the drive, AirPort antenna, and cowling. I would recommend holding off on putting the screws back for the AirPort antenna and cowling until both are in place, and re-checking the hard drive connectors before installing/tightening those screws.
UNSC Jon 117 - Replica
Note the hard drive connector attaches to the outermost connector on the logic board. On my Mini it attached to the inner connector.
The cable I got in the Dual Drive kit was exactly the same as the one installed in my Mini. I had to fold it to shift it over to snap on the outer connector.
And, no, my hard drive wasn't where the picture shows it to be.
jpmist - Replica
As UNSC Jon 117 says, these connectors are worryingly prone to pop off if there's any movement of the drives. Fortunately they're accessible even after refitting the antenna plate, so I would wait until then for a last-minute check. I've done this job three times now on the same Mac and everything has been fine.
Charles Butcher - Replica
The server version of the MacMini 2011 has three extra two wire cables for temperature sensors: two on the drive directly under the antenna plate, one on the other drive.
The small connectors have to lifted up from the logic board just like the fan connector and the IR sensor connector.
Take care when transferring the sensors to a new drive because two of those three extremely tiny PC board need to be removed of the old drive and are glued in place.
ernstcline - Replica
The "pop off" seems only to happen during reassembly if you press on the harddisk body. The harddisk at this time can be pressed in the direction of the underlying drive (in my case a SSD Drive) . Once the grid with the antenna has been attached (two red screws in step 8) this cannot happen any more.
John Doe 9th - Replica