Usa questa guida per sostituire completamente il disco rigido. Per completare il lavoro, è necessario utilizzare il mastice per incollare i vecchi sensori termici al nuovo disco rigido.

  1. Posizionare i pollici negli incavi tagliati nel coperchio inferiore.
    • Posizionare i pollici negli incavi tagliati nel coperchio inferiore.

    • Ruotare il coperchio inferiore in senso antiorario finché il puntino bianco dipinto su di esso non è allineato con il cerchio in rilievo sul case esterno.

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  2. Inclinare il Mac mini abbastanza da sganciare il coperchio inferiore dal case esterno.
    • Inclinare il Mac mini abbastanza da sganciare il coperchio inferiore dal case esterno.

    • Rimuovere coperchio inferiore e conservarlo altrove.

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    • Rimuovere le due viti Torx T6 da 11,3 mm che fissano la ventola alla scheda logica, in prossimità della piastra dell'antenna.

    There are actually 3 T6 screws securing the fan. The third screw is out of the screenshot, just below the RAM.

    inferno10 - Replica

    Nope, that third screw is actually just a post that the rubber grommet attached to the fan body slips over. Step 4 shows how the fan comes off of it. When you go to remove the fan, you simply remove the two screws closest to the antenna plate and then lift the fan off this post. The screw you are talking about is removed in Step 14 and does not need to be removed until this point.

    Andrew Bookholt -

    Successful install completed, but I had some trouble getting the fan reinstalled. When I removed the fan from the "Step 14" post, the rubber piece stayed on the post. When attempting to reinstall the fan, it was impossible to get the loop to go back over that rubber piece. So, I had to remove the post (again), and with the help of the spudger and some patience, worked it through. Then installed the fan using the 2 screws and the post. I think it may have saved some time and trouble if I just removed all 3 in the first place, leaving the post in the fan.

    meag -

    On mine I needed to remove the 26 mm T6 Torx standoff during this step rather than step 12

    philipashlock - Replica

    on my mid-2011 mac mini, that 3rd T6 post/screw had to be removed to get the fan out. It goes right through a hole in the fan housing. No way the grommet is slipping over anything without wreaking major havoc.

    Derek Shaw - Replica

    On my mid-2010 mac mini, also removed the 26 mm T6 Torx standoff during this step instead of step 12. Having completed the steps, it appears my hard drive is from mid 2011, so maybe the production line for mine had changed.

    jstraath - Replica

    • Sollevare la linguetta della ventola più vicina alla memoria RAM più vicina al distanziatore fissato al case esterno.

    Whats a standoff? Is that a screw?

    brzmn - Replica

    A standoff is like a screw extender. It screws into a screw-hole, and its head has a screw hole on it. When you attach something to a standoff, it makes that something stand off the original screw-hole surface.

    cityzen -

    Pulling on the ear didn't do anything, so I removed the whole screw at this step. The screw stayed fixed on the fan and I didn't have to remove it at the step where you remove the logic board screws.

    Probably I didn't want to use too much force .. but it worked

    Alexander Kogler - Replica

    This is the approach I used. no way was the "ear" pulling over the head of the standoff without breaking something. The standoff simply unscrewed from whatever is under the logic board and stayed with the fan assembly. WAY safe

    Derek Shaw -

    Loosen the fan standoff from the motherboard using a T6 driver.

    bobcloninger - Replica

    When I pulled the fan ear off the standoff the rubber grommet stayed on the standoff. That's fine, but it makes it difficult to put the fan ear back on during reassembly. So I just pulled the rubber grommet off the standoff and put it into the hole in the fan ear. Then I was able to push the fan ear onto the standoff with out trouble during reassembly.

    dhein - Replica

    It seems easiest to just remove this screw now. It comes out in Step 12 anyway. This way you don't have to mess with the rubber grommet.

    moecastleton - Replica

    • Sollevare la ventola dal Mac mini affinché sia possibile accedere al connettore.

    • Tirare con attenzione i cavi della ventola verso l'alto, per sollevare il connettore dal connettore femmina sulla scheda logica.

    • Rimuovere la ventola.

    I was a bit too rough in unclipping the fan and broke off the connector on the board?

    Is my only option to replace the board?

    Anthony DeFreitas - Replica

    • Rimuovere la vite T6 da 3,5 mm che fissa la mascherina al dissipatore.

    This is a screw into the head of another screw below it that holds the main board. When I took out the fan, the top screw AND the longer 26 mm screw came out together so when I was putting my mini back together I thought for a moment I had lost a screw.

    info - Replica

    Mine is stuck together too, but with a twist. They are not coming off. It starts to "jump" in the end, probably because the cover is pushing inwards the metal case. Any suggestion?

    douglaslondrina - Replica

    In my Mac mini there is no cowling. Maybe a previous owner didn’t put it back?

    Doeke Zanstra - Replica

    • Sollevare la mascherina dall'estremità più vicina alla piastra dell'antenna.

    • Ruotare la mascherina fuori dal case esterno e rimuoverla dal Mac mini.

    This is wrong step. If you need remove this out, it would be better to pull out logic board, and remember to remove cables attached on it before pull out.

    Lin Adison - Replica

    • Rimuovere le viti seguenti, che fissano la piastra dell'antenna al Mac mini:

      • Due viti Torx T8 da 6,6 mm

      • Due viti Torx T8 da 5 mm o viti esagonali da 2 mm (vanno bene entrambi i cacciaviti)

    The red circled screws are T9 in my Mac mini (not T8).

    Sven Harmstorf - Replica

    ditto here - the 6.6 mm screws that anchor to the HD (now SSD) are T9

    Derek Shaw -

    I have tried several times but I have been unable to get all four holes to line up when replacing the antenna plate. I can get the two closer to the center of the mini just fine but no matter how I align the plate, one of the screws closer to the edge of the mini will be so far out of alignment that I cannot get the screw to go in. I had to leave one screw uninstalled. The plate is not distorted in any way. It is installed the same way it was before I removed, as far as I can tell. I am baffled! Has anyone been through this?

    GalvanicMacPro - Replica

    Galvanic, it pops in.

    bkbkbk -

    I had a really hard time with this. I was able to resolve it though: secure the other three screws first. Then I pushed my precision screwdriver into the hole and levered the wayward tab into position: it wedged in with an audible snap sound! Then I was able to fasten the final screw.

    Aaron Vegh -

    I have trouble with this step every time I repair one of these minis. Aaron, your tip worked perfectly for me, thanks. -Anne

    DA IT Department -

    The antenna plate assembly is a tongue and groove type. The plate has a "groove" and the rim of the outer case is the "lip". You have to slide it in and align the parts ant it fits perfectly .

    jvilella -

    To solve this, just pick on the plate on the semi circle side and with the tool "open" just slighter the space where the semicircle have to fit

    Pedro -

    Had the same problem - the reason was the replacement drive I used - it is thinner than the original one. So I could not get the far side of the drive correctly into the holes for the notches mounted on the drive; that is - the drive was always a little bit too far to the center of the mac case. Everything works fine until you try to install all four screws.

    I found a simple solution: I attached some adhesive tape temporarily to the drive cover. By pulling on the tape while pushing the drive in its space the notches slipped into their holes. After this installing the antenna was no problem any more.

    Erwin Sommerauer -

    I had a similar problem with getting the antenna cover to fit back into place. I tried putting 3 screws back in and levering the 4th, but it did not work in my case. Finally, with three screws in place,, I carefully placed a thin pair of forceps into one of the holes in the cover and levered the entire cover upwards. That worked for me.

    Don - Replica

    Pulling up on the cover worked for me too. I found that the best place to pull up on the cover is at about "true north" in the picture ... near the black dot used to indicate lid-is-closed. I did it before installing any screws and all four screws went in fine.

    Fred Cat -

    As others have noted, the hardest part of the whole process is getting the holes lined up in reassembly. I ended up stripping one of the short screws, but it fits well enough to engage the slots in the circular plastic cover. If you leave a short screw out, I don't know how the bottom cover would fit securely. I would carefully note how the antenna cover fits while you remove it. The longer screws go into the actual hard drive, so I think alignment of the hard drive is part of the problem.

    Steve Dollar - Replica

    I had same problem..! U tried EVERTHING, and what worked PERFECT for me, and with very little effort is what "x10target" described here (scroll about half way down): Difficulty in re-installing Antenna Plate

    Mikey Marvel - Replica

    To replace the antenna plate, you need to patiently align the sides of the antenna and slide it in. I had similar problems as described above but, instead of using force, I resorted to patience. The plate's fit is very snug, just a little bit off the straight line and it won't sit properly. And when it sits, it really sits tight, you don't even need to hold it in place while screwing the screws back in.

    Eric Schneider - Replica

    In the “arch” of the plate is sort of a tongue & groove that fits over & under the lip of the body. I used Kelly Forceps to coax everything back together.

    tom - Replica

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    • Sollevare delicatamente la piastra dell'antenna dall'estremità più vicina alla memoria RAM.

    • Estrarre con attenzione la piastra dell'antenna direttamente dalla montatura rotonda nel case esterno.

    • Non rimuovere ancora la piastra dell'antenna, poiché è ancora collegata alla scheda AirPort/Bluetooth.

    When I tried to do step 9 and disconnect these connectors, I found that not only the cable/connector but the receptacle tore off the logic board -- momentary panic! This happened to both connectors.

    Left on the logic board were two tiny fragile gold pins (per connector). Fortunately they were pretty straight, and upon re-assembly, I was able to gently slot the receptacles back into the tiny pins. Upon reassembly, everything's working fine (no crazy fan noise) so I guess I got lucky...maybe VERY lucky. :)

    Thanks iFixIt for a fantastic guide. I've got a replacement drive in there and it's definitely going to extend the life of my Mini for another season.

    David Das - Replica

    • Mediante la punta di un inseritore, scollegare con attenzione il connettore dell'antenna dalla scheda AirPort/Bluetooth.

    I broke the connector on the bluetooth board when trying to remove the antenna when I tried to replace the hard drive. Currently, the exact replacement bluetooth board 607-6509A is very hard to find or otherwise, expensive. Instead, I was able to use a cheap replacement that can be found on eBay: Apple Macbook Unibody A1342 Airport Bluetooth Module 607-6771A. There is a black plastic sheath at the back of the 607-6771A. Just cut out the part that cover the 2 holes, you are good to go.

    millicurie77 - Replica

    Good info, thanks

    maccentric -

    Hmmm just broke the port as well; it is tricky and sticky even after the port came off …

    Choat - Replica

    Thanks for the info; my port just broke here as well :( It is sticky and port connector is so fragile!

    Choat - Replica

    it’s so painful ! almost all the time is spend to try to put this ridiculous connector. my last mini mac is a server, and use ethernet not the wifi so i gave up after 1 hour .

    admin - Replica

    It would be nice if there was a close up pic of the different connectors. Then, one would know how the connectors attach. In this case, this connector is kinda like an old “F” plug. Used Kelly Forceps to pull straight up. Came off and went back on. No sweat.

    tom - Replica

    • Rimuovere l'antenna dal Mac mini.

    When you replace the antenna plate, it can be tricky. The curved edge of it actually slots both over and under the edge of the case. If it doesn’t seem to fit properly, the edges of the cut perforations may be slightly squashed. Tweak them with a small screwdriver and it will suddenly seat properly.

    Ben G - Replica

    • Rimuovere le tre viti seguenti:

      • Una vite Torx T8 da 5 mm o vite esagonale da 2 mm (vanno bene entrambi i cacciaviti)

      • Una vite Torx T6 da 16,2 mm

      • Un distanziatore Torx T6 da 26 mm

    On mine I needed to remove the 26 mm T6 Torx standoff during step 3

    philipashlock - Replica

    • Estrarre con attenzione i fili da entrambi i sensori termici del disco rigido verso l'alto, per sollevare i connettori e rimuoverli dai rispettivi connettori femmina sulla scheda logica.

    BEWARE! Gently pulling one thermal sensor wire up from its logic board connector caused wire to rip loose from connector, leaving connector still in logic board socket. Using spudger on other connector caused same result. Even after wires ripped lose, it was impossible to get connector out of logic board socket (using spudger and needle nose pliers the connector came away in pieces). Connectors almost seem glued/fused into sockets and the wires will apparently break lose before the connector will release. What a terrible design. Here's hoping the mini will run without HDD thermal sensors :( I am experienced with repairing laptops and am kind of ticked because I am sure this damage was not due to incorrect/rough handling during attempt to disassemble.

    emcnally - Replica

    Followup Note: Ending up with disconnected HDD thermal sensors due to breakage apparently causes the main system fan to run at full speed all the time. This is extremely loud and pretty much defeats the purpose of the Mini form factor. Going to have to try to rig something up with actual solder or adhesive tape.

    This is just stupid. A computer where logic board connections get broken while replacing a frickin HDD. All in an attempt to do something about the pathetic and feeble hard disk the vendor includes with their crap hardware (50MB/s transfer--what is this 1998?). Last Mac Mini I will ever buy. Slow, yet expensive and fragile.

    emcnally -

    Not sure what emcnally is talking about but mine came off fine. I have a 2010 mac mini and just upgraded to a 500 gig WD drive. Everything worked went great and was easier than I thought. My connectors pulled right off with no damage.

    Dave - Replica

    tell the people to remove the superdrive’s thermal sensor as well! i just broke mine.

    Simon Meisinger - Replica

    WARNING! Remove superdrive thermal sensor as well from the connector, or it will break in step 16.

    Laszlo Nyirfa - Replica

    The plastic part broke for me. Barely putting any pressure on the connector and the thin plastic covering the metal connectors broke and the wires came out leaving the plastic connector in place. I was able to get the connector out without any more damage. Can I purchase a new thermal connector for this? I can't find the part listed anywhere.

    In the meantime I'm going to try and get the wires rigged to the board some how. Super glue them to the connector maybe. But I'm not sure if there is a polarity concern. Can the wires go to either pin on the board?

    Darrel Tenter - Replica

    I was able to get the plastic connector back in place, and fit the wires into it. Polarity is needed. First time I got the fan running full. Switched the wires and now I think the fan is running normally.

    But I don't trust this connection over and time would like to find a replacement hard drive thermal sensor wire assembly.

    Darrel Tenter -

    Each of the hard drive temperature cable connectors have tiny little tabs on the sides. I found success using a small needle to carefully push under and pop the tab out.

    Leon Roy - Replica

    Thanks, that's a nice way, works really well for me. Just try to stick a needle on the side and lift it up, if it has come up a little you can gently pull the cable and it will come off with very little force on the cable.

    gertjan -

    These connectors are fairly easy to unplug. You can pull up on the wires GENTLY to remove them. I used a wooden spudger to pry gently and the connectors popped right out. Putting them back in is easy just make sure they are right side up and they snap right back in.

    info - Replica

    This is where I got in trouble too. No problems on the first of my Minis, but this time one of these sockets had poor soldering and just came off the board. Basically no solder connection to the posts that are there to hold the socket in place. I ended up using a pin to pry the rest of them off, in case the others were also poorly connected. The outside of the socket is U shaped, with 2 small tabs at the lower end of the U. I inserted a pin next to these tabs and it let me lever the connectors out easily. Now I get to practice my soldering!

    moecastleton - Replica

    I used a pick (like a fine ice pick - available at Harbor Freight) to pry up the plastic clips while gently pulling at the wires with tweezers. They pull straight up. There are tiny tabs on the sides that kind of lock them in. I would not try just pulling on the wires. Everything is tiny and yrying to fix wires pulled out of the connectors would be very difficult.

    Steve Dollar - Replica

    The pin method is definitely better. I used the pin to slightly spread the "wings" of the connector on the board. Then I levered out the part that is attached to the wires. All done with the aid of a magnifying loop.

    Fred Cat - Replica

    I broke mine as well, did not replace the thermal sensor for the HDD, fan runs at full speed and is noisy. Went ahead and downloaded software fan control to reduce fan speed.

    Harish Ananthakrishnan - Replica

    With all the good comments above, I was extra cautious, my two connectors have solid black covers and I couldn’t find the tabs for the needles. So I read ahead a few steps. I was able to skip this step 13 and steps 15 and 16 and take out the drive without force. Step 14 worked as described. I have a mid-2010 without an optical drive so there was only a hard drive connector.

    jstraath - Replica

    Hi, i just used the flat end of ifixit’s plastic spudger to lift the tiny connectors without any tugging on the wires. First, i was a trained auto mechanic for 10 years then i got my electrical engineering degree! Started fixing macs in 1979 with an oscope, soldering iron and the ic circuit handbook plus chips from apple.

    Apples construction methods have sure gotten more and more fragile over the years. Glad i still have great eyes! Rossmon

    Ross Elkins - Replica

    • Utilizzare l'estremità piatta di un inseritore per scollegare i connettori del disco rigido e dell'unità ottica dai rispettivi connettori femmina sulla scheda logica.

    I skipped this step as well as step 15 and 16.

    What I did, was just wiggle the drive out of the pc. Just pull it a little bit up and towards. Might need a little bit of force. But it should come out. Then, just remove the tape from the sata connector and then remove the sata connector from the hdd. Then you can replace the hdd like mentioned in this tutorial.

    And I removed only the left thermal sensor. The right one can stay on unless you need more room.

    gertjan - Replica

    • Per avere spazio a sufficienza per la rimozione del disco rigido, occorre rimuovere leggermente la scheda logica. A tale scopo, occorre inserire due aste cilindriche nei fori evidenziati in rosso.

    • Inserire gli strumenti in altri fori rispetto a quelli evidenziati in rosso potrebbe danneggiare gravemente la scheda logica.

    • Inserire un attrezzo per la rimozione della scheda logica per Mac mini nei due fori evidenziati in rosso. Verificare che avvenga il contatto con il case esterno sotto la scheda logica prima di procedere con l'operazione.

    • Se non si dispone dell'apposito attrezzo per la rimozione della scheda logica, è possibile utilizzare due attrezzi dal diametro massimo di 2,5 mm. Inserirne uno in ciascuno dei fori evidenziati.

    • Tirare con attenzione l'attrezzo verso la scheda I/O. La scheda logica e il gruppo della scheda I/O dovrebbero scorrere leggermente fuori dal case esterno.

    • Interrompere l'operazione quando la scheda I/O è visibilmente separata dal case esterno. Rimuovere l'attrezzo per la rimozione della scheda logica per Mac mini.

    One MASSIVE hint to do this step: DON'T pull the tools towards you; rather, lever the top ends of the tools towards you, at and angle (so that the bottom of the tools don't move). Took me a while to figure this out!

    jon jon - Replica

    Didn't have that special tool. Used iPhone repairset screwdriver. Worked fine with sticking it in to the holes verticaly and then push it towards me a bit, then changing holes and repeating that step.

    Alexander Kogler - Replica

    I suggest to pull the wires for the cd drive thermal sensor and and the infrared sensor upward to lift their connectors up and out of their respective sockets on the logic board ((highlighted in red in the third picture of step 16).

    Riccardo Zulian - Replica

    Two 3/32" drill bits work great at replacing the tool. Place the shaft of the bits into the holes.

    iceman - Replica

    I had to watch a youtube video to see how this works. Then I realized you are just using the tools to pull the main board out toward the back of the mini.

    info - Replica

    A couple of small screw drivers will do. Just make sure they go far enough into the hole to be able to lever against the bottom as you pull them towards you. Without this I started to damage the logic board slightly.

    David Jackson - Replica

    How much pressure is necessary? Is it hard? Mine seams stuck.

    douglaslondrina - Replica

    Sliding the motherboard forward is not really needed to remove the hard drive, but it sure makes it a bit smoother. Just need to persuade it to go over the memory bracket.

    Lying Bastard - Replica

    • Premere contemporaneamente le due levette di plastica nei lati all'estrema sinistra e destra della scheda I/O verso la parte centrale di quest'ultima, rimuovendola leggermente dal case esterno.

    • Estrarre il gruppo scheda logica/scheda I/O dal case esterno per un massimo di 5 mm. Estrarlo ulteriormente potrebbe danneggiare il connettore del sensore infrarossi (evidenziato in rosso nella terza immagine).

    I found that when removing the logic board out a bit that the IR sensor was not so much of a problem as was the HDD temperature sensor located next to the IR sensor.

    My logic board accidentally popped out rather quickly and pulled out the sensor for the HDD.

    I don't know why it's not mentioned in the earlier step to just use the spudger to pop this cable off. Since it is mentioned in other guides for removal when replacing other parts.

    This would have been really helpful and most likely I would not have been left with loose cables and now looking for a new sensor cable.

    So fo any others out there replacing/upgrading your HDD and have some what of a hard time getting the logic board to budge just a bit, use the spudger to pop the cable off, it's not hard and pops back on as easily as the others. That's just an FYI and a preventative measure.

    tdowse1 - Replica

    Ifixit note, Mac mini mid-2010 step 16

    @tdowse1 I agree completely. I take issue with this guide because I believe it has an error. With just one of two changes I wouldn't have destroyed my ZIF sensor connectors:

    1) Issue the warning BEFORE or even with the instruction. Following the instructions step by step and not reading a step ahead, you don't realize you can damage your cable irretrievably. Even if you read the entire guide first, you can't be expected to memorize all warnings BEFORE you act on the instructions.

    2) Instruct the user to disconnect ALL of the ZIF cables first. This is truly the only safe thing to do.

    LelandHendrix - Replica

    • Sollevare il disco rigido dal bordo più vicino alla scheda logica e rimuoverlo dal Mac mini, facendo attenzione a non incastrare il connettore della memoria RAM e i cavi.

    • Durante la reinstallazione del disco rigido, verificare che i due terminali Torx T8 sull'altra estremità siano inseriti nei rispettivi anelli di tenuta in gomma evidenziati in rosso nella seconda immagine, prima di far scorrere la scheda logica nuovamente in posizione.

    The new drive, being thinner than the old one, was a bit tricky to get seated into the rubber grommets. I found that temporarily screwing a couple of screws into the top mounting holes on the drive helped with getting a grip on it. This, and standing the unit up on its end so that the drive would "fall" into the rubber grommets, worked OK for me.

    Fred Cat - Replica

    Great tip @ Fred Cat!!

    Vevek Lochub - Replica

    • Rimuovere la striscia di nastro che copre il connettore del disco rigido.

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    • Scollegare il cavo del disco rigido estraendolo direttamente dall'unità stessa.

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    • Rimuovere il pezzetto di nastro che copre il sensore termico facendolo aderire sul bordo del disco rigido.

    The adhesive of the tape and cover after eight years wasn’t very sticky once removed. I reused the cover and kept it all in place with some polyamide tape. Including the sensor.

    tom - Replica

    • Sollevare con attenzione il sensore termico dall'estremità del disco rigido.

    This mini circuit board for the thermal sensor is very delicate and stuck on quite firmly, so be very careful removing it. I ended up cracking mine in half. On re-assembly the system would run but the fans were on 100% until this sensor was replaced with a new part which was not easy to find.

    Steve Booth - Replica

    @Steve Booth

    I am in the exact same situation now.

    My board assembly was snugly stuck (most are) and using only enough force to budge it at all also caused it to slip far enough as to crack apart my ZIF connector shells. ZIFs are not so difficult so I have NO idea why the author wouldn't recommend removing then all for safety. Or noting--INLINE WITH THE INSTRUCTION--that they all be disconnected before sliding the board assembly though not entirely necessary.

    If you know where I can find the temperature sensors, please let me know? I really don't want to have to take this back to the Genius Bar and they see what I've done. It's humiliating. I should have known better. And had I just been exploring on my own instead of mindlessly following this guide step-by-step, I would have removed all my cables first before trying to budge the logic board.

    Very disappointing.

    LelandHendrix - Replica

    Top Tip! Dont bother trying to peal the sensor off. Instead start from the other end of the barcode sticker and peel that off and as you get closer to the sensor you will see that you will be able to safely remove the barcode sticker and thermal sensor at the same time.

    Anthony Christensen - Replica

    Awesome idea, worked great!

    LTBAss01 -

    Do not peel. I think that peeling will lead to breakage.

    I was able to remove the sensor intact by twisting it back and forth rather than peeling it. The sensor is held on by something like rubber cement; you can just rotate the sensor, gently, keeping it flat against the drive, until it becomes free.

    Note: I did try removing the bar code sticker, but it just tore at the sensor as I peeled the bar code sticker away, so no help there.

    dhein - Replica

    Agree with dhein. Grab the sensor at its base by its wires (carefully) and rotate the sensor right/left or clockwise/counterclockwise several times until the glue is loosened and the sensor lifts off the hard drive. Works like a charm.

    When it's time to attach the sensor to the new HD, press it in place fairly firmly and hold it there for 20 seconds or so. Then reapply the tape.

    meklir - Replica

    So, once I peeled the heat sensors, what should I use to stick them back to the new drive? Rubber cement is not available in Europe and I’d rather avoid product that would be hard to remove, would prevent proper reading by the sensors or contain inappropriate solvants for the machine and user.

    Zigzag - Replica

    To make removing the sensor easier apply some alcohol to a cotton ball and wipe around the sensor. It should remove some of the adhesive to make it easier to gently slide off. Save the thermal tape from the hard drive and use a strip to secure the sensor back in place.

    miseryengine - Replica

    Peeling the bar code sticker worked for me. The bar code sticker remained intact with the heat sensor still stuck to it. Be careful to keep the bar code sticker fairly low while peeling it because the heat sensor board is very thin and will flex along with it. I did not remove the heat sensor from the now unstuck bar code sticker. The bar code sticker had plenty of stickiness to it, which allowed me to just stick it to the new drive, heat sensor and all. I first peeled the bar code sticker off the new drive just in case having two layers of bar code stickers messes with the sensor's calibration.

    Fred Cat - Replica

    Great idea, thanks for the tip!

    LTBAss01 -

    I would recommend taking a sharp edge, e.g. the tip of a small flat screwdriver, and get underneath the sensor pad itself, and GENTLY prying it. grabbing the wires and twisting/rotating can cause the wires to pop off, these are thin wires, easy to break off!

    mukund21 - Replica

    • Rimuovere le due viti Torx T8 da 6,2 mm dall'altro lato del disco rigido.

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    • Rimuovere con attenzione la copertura del disco rigido.

    • Resta il disco rigido.

    • Se stai installando un nuovo disco fisso, abbiamo una guida di installazione OS X per aiutarti a tornare rapidamente al lavoro.

    Carefully note the orientation of the hard drive cover before you remove it. I was putting in an SSD with no label and no clearly identifiable "bottom" so I made note of the SATA connector position relative to the cover.

    info - Replica

    Replacing the upper drive in a Mac Mini Server:

    1) disconnect the heat sensor from the motherboard as shown for the lower drive in step 13. This is the 2-wire socket adjacent to the fan socket disconnected in step 5

    2) remove motherboard (see the iFixit guide)

    3) remove power supply (see the iFixit guide)

    4) remove T6 screw holding the plastic retaining bracket to the aluminum shell. With the screw removed, slide the plastic bracket out the back. The lower drive will come along with the bracket

    5) remove the 4 T8 retaining screws in the sides of the drive unit.

    6) remove the black tape and carefully remove the heat sensor unit just like steps 18-21

    7) remove the SATA connecter

    8) if you're installing a thinner profile drive, like an SSD, you don't need to use a spacer because the 4 T8 retaining screws "suspend" the drive in the right position relative to the lower drive.

    9) reassemble everything in reverse order.

    If you're slow and careful, this isn't any harder than the lower drive procedure.

    mbleyle - Replica

    correction to step #4: should say "upper" drive, not lower

    mbleyle -


Per riassemblare il dispositivo, segui queste istruzioni in ordine inverso.

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These instructions and a little common sense can also be used to replace the lower hard drive in the server version of the Mac Mini. Luckily that was the drive that had failed in my case. Replacing the upper drive looks like a tougher proposition.

Bozo Z Clown - Replica

Fantastic guide, thank you very much Mr. Bookholt!

As with the above commenter, I accidentally mistook the fan's standoff for a screw and removed it while removing the fan. Also the top right fan screw's standoff came out along with it. I edited the guide with a note on this.

While replacing the antenna, it wasn't immediately clear why the screws weren't lining up, until I realized that two of the screws were in the (otherwise free-floating but for the back grommets) hard drive, I also added a note on that.

Jon Bailey - Replica

STEP 15: If you don't have the time to purchase the Mac Mini Logic Board Removal Tool, the round stock on a large binder clip is PERFECT for the job. It requires a little bending and cutting but it worked perfectly!!

And as jon jon stated, it works like a lever - not a pull. You can feel it kind of click in to the lever points below.

Bravo to for the easy to follow instruction!!

blavin - Replica

Hey, what about the 2nd harddrive? how does that come out?

This was a superb guide. Thank you very, very much.

Tyrone Steele - Replica

Ok, just did here. 1 tera HD working fine. Thanks iFixit, for repacking my tools because the Brazilian mail lost them. So, for those who want to do the same, just have in mind that not ALL things happen just like the how-to. I have to figure out What to do with the logic board removal tool... And, no, I did not fuss with those initial thermal stuff, because they are impossible to unplug. I only fuss with the HD thermal.

giorio - Replica

Excellent guide -- worked exactly as defined. I ordered the replacement kit (drive + tools) and its working great. Thank you!

DBHERTEL - Replica

Followed the guide and it worked perfectly. One thing to note: when replacing the hard drive which is 9.5mm thick with a newer SSD that is only 7mm thick, it's useful to use a cushion of some double sided foam tape on the top of the SSD. This prevents the SSD from angling down towards the rear of the mini (assuming you have the lugs placed back in the grommets in Step 17), which makes replacing the 2 6.6 mm T8 Torx screws in Step 8 easier since they screw into the bottom of the hard drive or SSD.

brad - Replica

Thank you for this guide - it was very helpful and well written. I highly recommend buying the mac mini logic board tool - it made a huge difference in the ease of that step. Now I have a 1TB HDD in my trusty mini and it took less than one hour to do - thank you.

boss302beav - Replica

Excellent guide. Much less scary than it might look. Just take your time and read each steps comment before executing the step.

meklir - Replica

I followed these instructions diligently. After re-assembly and booting the system, I am experiencing intermittent video, mostly black screen with flashing grey and brief appearance of the Apple logo. While I cannot say for sure, the boot process makes it as far as the filevault login screen. I have tried multiple boot drives with no change. It seems like the system has been bricked.

Has anyone seen this before? It does not matter if I tap into the HDMI or mini-display port.

Thanks in advance.

jyana - Replica

It is extremely irritating to take the whole thing apart and replace the upper drive, only to find that it was the other drive I needed to replace. As far as I know there is know way of telling which drive was faulty!

Don - Replica

I removed the drive without doing steps 15 and 16. I was able to pry it out with a little bit of force and then I installed an SSD. There is enough room for the hard to come out if you just nudge it out. Someone suggested using foam to make up for the 2.5mm difference in thickness. I used a piece of paper that I folded 3 or 4 times and then taped it to the SSD. The SSD slid in with no problem.

metope - Replica

Thank you so much, this worked perfectly and helped me bring a mid-2010 mac mini back to life with a brand new Crucial MX200 500 GB SSD!

Jeff Olson - Replica

Step 8 - The antenna has a lip on it (the half crescent side). After the other side is lined up and in the groove, use a pair of tweezers or two mini screw drivers and stick them in two holes near the side that won't fit. Gently lift the antenna grill into place as you push it towards the edge of the Mac mini.

Noel Pardo - Replica

I was nervous about trying this, but making sure to read all comments, it worked! Reinstalling the antenna cover plate was the most difficult part as the tolerances are very tight.

Steve Dollar - Replica

Brilliant! Took me longer than 55 minutes (90?) but no big problems thanks to the guide and the other user comments. I was able to reattach the thermal sensors with tape I had removed from the drive. My Mac mini is now twice as fast to start up (5 minutes to 2.20), cooler, totally silent (no fan in use because it's cooler) and much more productive. It had fallen into disuse due to the time it took to do ANYTHING, but now it's fine again. Many thanks.

Graham Crewe - Replica

Many thanks for not only documenting the steps but also for encouraging not to afraid to go for it... It took about half-an-hour to replace my HDD with SDD (i had to carefully use plyers twice instead of missing torx). My Mini 2010's performance was strongly impacted by going to Mavericks and later OS, but the new SSD has compensated some of this loss :)

vitalyrychkov - Replica

HI What odd is there is only 3 connectors on motherboard and no 4th one for cable piece that just stuck on top of hard drive for thermal sensor cable.

Jennifer Henry - Replica

I've started the disassembly for this repair before realizing that I had the dual-hard drive/no optical drive 2010 Mac Server. I don't see any instructions for removing the dual hard drive assembly (the factory dual-hard drive, not the aftermarket optical drive/hard drive swap out. I don't see any instructions for my model, or did I miss them somewhere? I've got everything out of the mini shell except for the power supply. I've got both hard drives on the table - one in the protective plastic sheath (with glued sensors, cables, etc.) and the other in a plastic frame that slides out of the mini shell from its deepest parts. Incredibly, both hard drives are failing at the same time. Everything's backed up and I'm ready to replace with two 1TB drives that I've removed from MacBook Pros.

subscriptions - Replica

Does anyone know what the max height for a 2.5" SATA hard drive is when replacing either of the hard drives in the dual-hard drive systems?

subscriptions - Replica

I swapped out the 320 gig disk in my 2010 mini not long ago, I replaced it with a 1 TB to hold audio imported into iTunes with the Apple lossless codec. I managed to do the swap without disconnecting anything other than the SATA cable. I tried disconnecting the thermal sensor wires, but due to the age of the hardware, I figured it would turn out badly trying to get those tiny brittle plastic connectors apart. So with some careful work I got the sensors unstuck from the old disk and placed on the new one, got it into place, tightened all fasteners, and reassembled. Now this box, which is dedicated to CD importing and streaming audio via iTunes, can hold all the CDs I have on hand to import and then some.

Randy - Replica

On my Mini, the 26mm T6 screw and stand-off removed in step 12 goes through the fan and has to be removed in step 3. Not sure if that was a design change mid production.

eric - Replica

When Disk Utility refers to the “upper” drive, is that the bottom drive when repairing because it’s upside down?

Ark - Replica

Mid 2010 mac mini

I cocked mine up, one of the heat sensor connectors broke whilst trying to lift out with pry tool,

i got the new hard drive in and got it all back together but there is no sign of life, the light doesn’t even come on the front,

My external hard drive lights up so there is power going though, and the hdmi changes on my tv, but nothing else happens,

i should have just stuck to the memory upgrade as changing it from the 2x 1gb to 2x 8gb made it a lot smoother than it ever has been!!

alas I didn’t leave it there and I now have no working Mac mini :(


paulpenfold74 - Replica

Worked perfectly. The photos make it incredibly easy. I opted for a Samsung 860EVO 500GB SSD ( had on sale for $99 + free next day shipping with Prime). Prying the logic board to move was a little sticky … and the other comment about the thickness of the SSD vs the old HDD is correct. I saw that some kits come with a rubber grommet, which would be helpful, but not required. It probably took more time to get the OS back on compare to swapping the drive out. Thank again.

Will Casserly - Replica

Excellent guide, thank you iFix it. It is the second time I follow this , the first one I upgraded to a larger drive (1Tb) and now I switched to a SSD.

I still need the now “legacy” DVD for some old movies :). At some point I may replace it with a second HDD (storage) .

crus - Replica

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