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Introduzione

This repair guide was authored by the iFixit staff and hasn’t been endorsed by Google. Learn more about our repair guides here.

Follow this guide to replace the rear-facing camera on a Google Pixel 4a.

The unreinforced display panel on the Pixel 4a is fragile. Pay special attention to the warnings in the opening procedure if you are reusing the screen.

  1. Insert a SIM eject tool, bit, or straightened paper clip into the SIM tray hole. Press directly into the hole to eject the SIM card tray. Remove the SIM card tray.
    • Insert a SIM eject tool, bit, or straightened paper clip into the SIM tray hole.

    • Press directly into the hole to eject the SIM card tray.

    • Remove the SIM card tray.

  2. You will need to pry the screen up to remove it from the phone. Read the following notes carefully before proceeding. Take note of the two seams on the edge of the phone: Screen seam: This seam separates the screen from the rest of the phone. This is where you should pry.
    • You will need to pry the screen up to remove it from the phone. Read the following notes carefully before proceeding.

    • Take note of the two seams on the edge of the phone:

    • Screen seam: This seam separates the screen from the rest of the phone. This is where you should pry.

    • Frame seam: This is where the plastic frame meets the back cover. It is held in place by screws. Do not pry at this seam.

    • Before you begin, note the following areas on the screen:

    • Screen flex cable: Do not insert the opening pick deeper than instructed or you risk damaging this cable.

    • Note the orange ribbon cable under the lower-right corner of the screen, which is susceptible to damage if your opening pick is pressed into it. Only insert your opening pick as little as is necessary to separate the screen adhesive.

    • Adhesive perimeter: Prying beyond this narrow perimeter without angling the pick will damage the OLED panel.

    Coll down guys and gals.

    1) go below the Display and not between the backcover/middle (see the other comments)

    2) just take care about the flex/display cable position (which is iirc about on the middle i.e. 2nd 3rd from the bottom ON THE LEFT side dear OP)

    Everything else is just separting the glued on Display from the Phone.

    See the other comments

    Aleksandar Dejanovic - Replica

    Cool down guys and gals.

    1) go below the Display and not between the backcover/middle (see the other comments)

    2) just take care about the flex/display cable position (which is iirc about on the middle i.e. 2nd 3rd from the bottom ON THE LEFT side dear OP)

    Everything else is just separting the glued on Display from the Phone.

    See the other comments

    Aleksandar Dejanovic - Replica

    I've measured it: The cable starts arround 1.4-1.6 cm from the lower half from the bottom on the left side.

    So You can cut the bottom left corner and of course the upper left one but for safety's sake, watch out for the camera.

    You can go up to 5cm down from the upper left side till You're near the cable.

    Aleksandar Dejanovic - Replica

  3. Apply a heated iOpener to the right edge of the display for one minute to soften the adhesive.
    • Apply a heated iOpener to the right edge of the display for one minute to soften the adhesive.

    • A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the phone—the display and internal battery are both susceptible to heat damage.

  4. If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen. Place a suction cup as close to the right edge of the screen as possible. Lift the suction cup with a strong steady force.
    • If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.

    • Place a suction cup as close to the right edge of the screen as possible.

    • Lift the suction cup with a strong steady force.

    • Insert the tip of an opening pick into the screen seam no more than 1 mm.

    It's pretty easy. Insert it just below the screen between the Display and the Display “holder” or mold.

    Aleksandar Dejanovic - Replica

  5. This step shows how to insert the pick without damaging the OLED panel. Do this before beginning to slice the adhesive. With the pick 1 mm into the gap, pivot the pick upwards to a steep angle. At a steep angle, carefully push the pick into the gap about 1/4 inch (6 mm). The pick should slide in below the OLED panel.
    • This step shows how to insert the pick without damaging the OLED panel. Do this before beginning to slice the adhesive.

    • With the pick 1 mm into the gap, pivot the pick upwards to a steep angle.

    • At a steep angle, carefully push the pick into the gap about 1/4 inch (6 mm). The pick should slide in below the OLED panel.

    • Stop if you feel the point of the pick hitting a ridge. The pick may be pressing against the edge of the OLED panel. Angle the pick and try again.

    This took me a while, I ended up sharpening the tip of the pick with a razor so I could push it through the seam and slicing a few times, heat->sharpen-> slice until I finally got it to move, and once it slid under carefully heated up areas and sliced with ~2mm of the pick.

    Alan Carlson - Replica

    This sounds also harder than it is. Push it in 1mm and just lift the other end in a wider angle like 70° degree from the horinzontal position. There “shouldn't” be much you can do wrong. Because except for the Data cable (flex) at a certain position, I can't remeber anything important but isolating tapes that I have scratched.

    It's just the Screen glued to the mold. That's it.

    Aleksandar Dejanovic - Replica

    Oh, and I wonder here where do You all get such thins plectrums? I have also the flat plastic version and the thin plastic cards but none of them were thin enough for this!!

    I ended up using the backside i.e. the dull side of a Razorblade. I didn't saw any alternatives to this. Did You hear this OP?

    Any!!

    Aleksandar Dejanovic - Replica

  6. Slide the pick along the right edge of the screen to cut the adhesive. Do not insert the pick more than 1/4 inch (6 mm) or you may damage the screen's flex cable. Leave the pick in the top right corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.
    • Slide the pick along the right edge of the screen to cut the adhesive.

    • Do not insert the pick more than 1/4 inch (6 mm) or you may damage the screen's flex cable.

    • Leave the pick in the top right corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

  7. The screen adhesive is very weak and you should not need to re-apply heat. If the screen does feel hard to slice, apply heat to the difficult area for one minute and try again. Insert another opening pick into the right  edge of the phone at an angle where a gap has already formed to prevent damage to the OLED panel. Slide the opening pick around the bottom of the phone to cut the adhesive.
    • The screen adhesive is very weak and you should not need to re-apply heat. If the screen does feel hard to slice, apply heat to the difficult area for one minute and try again.

    • Insert another opening pick into the right edge of the phone at an angle where a gap has already formed to prevent damage to the OLED panel.

    • Slide the opening pick around the bottom of the phone to cut the adhesive.

    • There is a delicate cable under the bottom-right corner of the screen. If you feel your opening pick snag on anything, pull it out and try again. Make sure your pick is angled downward and only inserted as little as is necessary to separate the adhesive (no more than 3 mm deep).

    • Leave the pick inserted along the bottom edge to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

  8. Insert another opening pick into the bottom edge of the phone at an angle where a gap has already formed to prevent damage to the OLED panel. Use the pick to slice through the left edge of the phone. If the screen feels hard to slice, heat the left edge for one minute and try again.
    • Insert another opening pick into the bottom edge of the phone at an angle where a gap has already formed to prevent damage to the OLED panel.

    • Use the pick to slice through the left edge of the phone.

    • If the screen feels hard to slice, heat the left edge for one minute and try again.

    • Leave the pick inserted along the left edge of the phone to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

  9. There's a mesh covering the earpiece speaker on the top edge of the screen. If you don’t have a replacement mesh, take care not to damage or lose this component. Insert another opening pick into the left edge of the phone at an angle where a gap has already formed to prevent damage to the OLED panel. Slide the pick around the top edge of the phone to cut the adhesive.
    • There's a mesh covering the earpiece speaker on the top edge of the screen. If you don’t have a replacement mesh, take care not to damage or lose this component.

    • Insert another opening pick into the left edge of the phone at an angle where a gap has already formed to prevent damage to the OLED panel.

    • Slide the pick around the top edge of the phone to cut the adhesive.

    • If the screen feels hard to slice, heat the top edge for one minute and try again.

  10. Once you have cut around the perimeter of the phone, carefully lift the right edge of the screen, opening the phone like a book. Do not remove the screen yet.
    • Once you have cut around the perimeter of the phone, carefully lift the right edge of the screen, opening the phone like a book.

    • Do not remove the screen yet.

    • Use an opening pick to carefully cut through any remaining adhesive.

  11. Lift from the top edge and swing the screen over the bottom edge until you can rest it glass-side down. Be careful not to put any stress on the attached ribbon cable. Be careful not to put any stress on the attached ribbon cable.
    • Lift from the top edge and swing the screen over the bottom edge until you can rest it glass-side down.

    • Be careful not to put any stress on the attached ribbon cable.

  12. Use a pair of tweezers to carefully peel up the black tape covering the screen connector bracket.
    • Use a pair of tweezers to carefully peel up the black tape covering the screen connector bracket.

    • If it is in good condition, you can re-use this tape during reassembly. Otherwise, replace it with a piece of electrical tape.

    • Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 2.1 mm screws securing the screen connector bracket.

    • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.

  13. Use a pair of tweezers to remove the screen connector bracket.
    • Use a pair of tweezers to remove the screen connector bracket.

    • Make sure to keep this component to reinstall it during reassembly.

  14. Use the tip of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the screen flex cable. To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the screen flex cable.

    • To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

    No, why the tip? Use the other flat side that doesn't concetrate all the power on one point and Youre doing a propper job.

    Aleksandar Dejanovic - Replica

  15. Remove the screen.
    • Remove the screen.

    • Compare your replacement screen with the original. You may need to transfer additional components (such as speaker mesh) to the new part.

    • To install the new screen:

    • Scrape off remaining adhesive from the perimeter of the frame.

    • Follow this guide if you are using custom-cut adhesives.

    • If you are using double-sided tape such as Tesa tape, follow this guide.

    • If you use isopropyl alcohol to clean the adhesive off the display, be sure to not let it splash onto any unintended components, as this can weaken their adhesive bond.

    • During the boot-up process after reassembly, the screen will go through a calibration sequence. Do not touch the screen during this process, as it could result in improper touch calibration and create touch issues.

    This step seems to imply that a screen replacement is necessary when replacing the charging port. Is the charging port replaceable without replacing the screen? I understand great care must be taken not to damage the original screen in the procedure, but can it be reinstalled?

    David-Alexandre Tremblay - Replica

    Yes, it can be reinstalled.

    Sam Omiotek -

  16. Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the eight 4.3 mm screws securing the back cover to the midframe. Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the eight 4.3 mm screws securing the back cover to the midframe.
    • Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the eight 4.3 mm screws securing the back cover to the midframe.

  17. Insert an opening pick into the seam between the midframe and the back cover. Slide the opening pick along the bottom edge of the phone to release the plastic clips securing the back cover to the midframe.
    • Insert an opening pick into the seam between the midframe and the back cover.

    • Slide the opening pick along the bottom edge of the phone to release the plastic clips securing the back cover to the midframe.

  18. Slide the opening pick around the left edge of the phone to release the plastic clips securing the back cover to the midframe. Slide the opening pick around the left edge of the phone to release the plastic clips securing the back cover to the midframe.
    • Slide the opening pick around the left edge of the phone to release the plastic clips securing the back cover to the midframe.

  19. Slide the opening pick around the top and right edges of the phone to release the rest of the clips. Slide the opening pick around the top and right edges of the phone to release the rest of the clips. Slide the opening pick around the top and right edges of the phone to release the rest of the clips.
    • Slide the opening pick around the top and right edges of the phone to release the rest of the clips.

  20. Carefully swing the back cover from the bottom of the phone over the top and around the back. Lay the back cover on the work surface and lightly rest the midframe on the back cover, being careful not to put any stress on the attached ribbon cables. Lay the back cover on the work surface and lightly rest the midframe on the back cover, being careful not to put any stress on the attached ribbon cables.
    • Carefully swing the back cover from the bottom of the phone over the top and around the back.

    • Lay the back cover on the work surface and lightly rest the midframe on the back cover, being careful not to put any stress on the attached ribbon cables.

  21. Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the seven screws securing the motherboard bracket: Three 2.9 mm-long black screws
    • Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the seven screws securing the motherboard bracket:

    • Three 2.9 mm-long black screws

    • Three 2 mm-long screws

    • One 4.1 mm-long screw

  22. Use the tip of a spudger to unclip the motherboard bracket from the upper-right and lower-right corners of the motherboard. Use the tip of a spudger to unclip the motherboard bracket from the upper-right and lower-right corners of the motherboard. Use the tip of a spudger to unclip the motherboard bracket from the upper-right and lower-right corners of the motherboard.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to unclip the motherboard bracket from the upper-right and lower-right corners of the motherboard.

  23. Use a pair of tweezers to remove the motherboard bracket. Use a pair of tweezers to remove the motherboard bracket. Use a pair of tweezers to remove the motherboard bracket.
    • Use a pair of tweezers to remove the motherboard bracket.

  24. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the battery cable. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the battery cable.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the battery cable.

  25. Use the tip of a spudger to disconnect the two  flex cables connecting the fingerprint sensor and buttons to the motherboard. Use the tip of a spudger to disconnect the two  flex cables connecting the fingerprint sensor and buttons to the motherboard. Use the tip of a spudger to disconnect the two  flex cables connecting the fingerprint sensor and buttons to the motherboard.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to disconnect the two flex cables connecting the fingerprint sensor and buttons to the motherboard.

  26. Remove the back cover. Remove the back cover.
    • Remove the back cover.

  27. Use the tip of a spudger to disconnect the headphone jack cable from the motherboard. Use the tip of a spudger to disconnect the headphone jack cable from the motherboard.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to disconnect the headphone jack cable from the motherboard.

  28. Insert an opening pick under the headphone jack and twist to release it from the adhesive securing it to the midframe. Remove the headphone jack. Remove the headphone jack.
    • Insert an opening pick under the headphone jack and twist to release it from the adhesive securing it to the midframe.

    • Remove the headphone jack.

  29. Pry up with the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the front-facing camera from the motherboard. Pry up with the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the front-facing camera from the motherboard.
    • Pry up with the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the front-facing camera from the motherboard.

  30. Use a pair of tweezers to remove the front-facing camera. Use a pair of tweezers to remove the front-facing camera.
    • Use a pair of tweezers to remove the front-facing camera.

  31. Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 4.1 mm screws securing the loudspeaker assembly. Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 4.1 mm screws securing the loudspeaker assembly.
    • Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 4.1 mm screws securing the loudspeaker assembly.

  32. Insert the tip of a spudger underneath the loudspeaker assembly. Be careful not to puncture the white membrane on either side of the speaker if you are intending to reuse it. Flip the loudspeaker assembly over so it lightly rests on top of the battery.
    • Insert the tip of a spudger underneath the loudspeaker assembly.

    • Be careful not to puncture the white membrane on either side of the speaker if you are intending to reuse it.

    • Flip the loudspeaker assembly over so it lightly rests on top of the battery.

  33. Use the tip of a spudger to disconnect the antenna flex cable from the loudspeaker assembly. Use the tip of a spudger to disconnect the antenna flex cable from the loudspeaker assembly. Use the tip of a spudger to disconnect the antenna flex cable from the loudspeaker assembly.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to disconnect the antenna flex cable from the loudspeaker assembly.

  34. Carefully peel the loudspeaker assembly up off of the tape underneath it. Be careful not to puncture the white membrane on either side of the speaker if you are intending to reuse it. Remove the loudspeaker assembly.
    • Carefully peel the loudspeaker assembly up off of the tape underneath it.

    • Be careful not to puncture the white membrane on either side of the speaker if you are intending to reuse it.

    • Remove the loudspeaker assembly.

  35. Use the tip of a spudger to disconnect the loudspeaker cable from the motherboard. Use the tip of a spudger to disconnect the loudspeaker cable from the motherboard.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to disconnect the loudspeaker cable from the motherboard.

    Be careful on this step. I ended up popping out part of the clip housing (I may be able to repair once I look at it with a magnifying glass). Maybe the flat side of the spudger would be better.

    Alan Carlson - Replica

  36. Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the three screws securing the motherboard:
    • Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the three screws securing the motherboard:

    • Two 2.9 mm-long black screws

    • One 2.1 mm-long screw

  37. Use the corner of an opening pick to peel up the tape covering the earpiece speaker.
    • Use the corner of an opening pick to peel up the tape covering the earpiece speaker.

  38. Use a pair of tweezers to completely remove the tape covering the earpiece speaker. It is not required to reinstall this tape during reassembly. It is not required to reinstall this tape during reassembly.
    • Use a pair of tweezers to completely remove the tape covering the earpiece speaker.

    • It is not required to reinstall this tape during reassembly.

  39. Insert the tup of a spudger underneath the bottom edge of the motherboard and pry it up enough to grip it with your fingers. Insert the tup of a spudger underneath the bottom edge of the motherboard and pry it up enough to grip it with your fingers.
    • Insert the tup of a spudger underneath the bottom edge of the motherboard and pry it up enough to grip it with your fingers.

  40. Remove the motherboard. Remove the motherboard.
    • Remove the motherboard.

  41. Use the tip of a spudger to disconnect the rear-facing camera from the motherboard. Remove the rear-facing camera.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to disconnect the rear-facing camera from the motherboard.

    • Remove the rear-facing camera.

    • If your replacement camera module has a plastic spacer, be sure to remove it before you install the module.

    • Make sure the lens surface is smudge and dust free before you install the camera assembly.

Conclusione

To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Answers community for help.

Un'altra persona ha completato questa guida.

Sam Omiotek

Membro da: 25/02/2019

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Un commento

T3 driver is too small. T4 driver fits all screws perfectly.

leehall - Replica

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