Introduzione
This repair guide was authored by the iFixit staff and hasn’t been endorsed by Google. Learn more about our repair guides here.
Follow this guide to replace the rear-facing camera on a Google Pixel 4a.
The unreinforced display panel on the Pixel 4a is fragile. Pay special attention to the warnings in the opening procedure if you are reusing the screen.
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Insert a SIM eject tool, bit, or straightened paper clip into the SIM tray hole.
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Press directly into the hole to eject the SIM card tray.
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Remove the SIM card tray.
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Take note of the two seams on the edge of the phone:
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Screen seam: This seam separates the screen from the rest of the phone. This is where you should pry.
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Frame seam: This is where the plastic frame meets the back cover. It is held in place by screws. Do not pry at this seam.
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Before you begin, note the following areas on the screen:
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Screen flex cable: Do not insert the opening pick deeper than instructed or you risk damaging this cable.
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Adhesive perimeter: Prying beyond this narrow perimeter without angling the pick will damage the OLED panel.
Coll down guys and gals.
1) go below the Display and not between the backcover/middle (see the other comments)
2) just take care about the flex/display cable position (which is iirc about on the middle i.e. 2nd 3rd from the bottom ON THE LEFT side dear OP)
Everything else is just separting the glued on Display from the Phone.
See the other comments
Cool down guys and gals.
1) go below the Display and not between the backcover/middle (see the other comments)
2) just take care about the flex/display cable position (which is iirc about on the middle i.e. 2nd 3rd from the bottom ON THE LEFT side dear OP)
Everything else is just separting the glued on Display from the Phone.
See the other comments
I've measured it: The cable starts arround 1.4-1.6 cm from the lower half from the bottom on the left side.
So You can cut the bottom left corner and of course the upper left one but for safety's sake, watch out for the camera.
You can go up to 5cm down from the upper left side till You're near the cable.
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Apply a heated iOpener to the right edge of the display for one minute to soften the adhesive.
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Place a suction cup as close to the right edge of the screen as possible.
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Lift the suction cup with a strong steady force.
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Insert the tip of an opening pick into the screen seam no more than 1 mm.
It's pretty easy. Insert it just below the screen between the Display and the Display “holder” or mold.
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With the pick 1 mm into the gap, pivot the pick upwards to a steep angle.
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At a steep angle, carefully push the pick into the gap about 1/4 inch (6 mm). The pick should slide in below the OLED panel.
This took me a while, I ended up sharpening the tip of the pick with a razor so I could push it through the seam and slicing a few times, heat->sharpen-> slice until I finally got it to move, and once it slid under carefully heated up areas and sliced with ~2mm of the pick.
This sounds also harder than it is. Push it in 1mm and just lift the other end in a wider angle like 70° degree from the horinzontal position. There “shouldn't” be much you can do wrong. Because except for the Data cable (flex) at a certain position, I can't remeber anything important but isolating tapes that I have scratched.
It's just the Screen glued to the mold. That's it.
Oh, and I wonder here where do You all get such thins plectrums? I have also the flat plastic version and the thin plastic cards but none of them were thin enough for this!!
I ended up using the backside i.e. the dull side of a Razorblade. I didn't saw any alternatives to this. Did You hear this OP?
Any!!
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Slide the pick along the right edge of the screen to cut the adhesive.
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Leave the pick in the top right corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.
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Insert another opening pick into the right edge of the phone at an angle where a gap has already formed to prevent damage to the OLED panel.
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Slide the opening pick around the bottom of the phone to cut the adhesive.
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Leave the pick inserted along the bottom edge to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
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Insert another opening pick into the bottom edge of the phone at an angle where a gap has already formed to prevent damage to the OLED panel.
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Use the pick to slice through the left edge of the phone.
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Leave the pick inserted along the left edge of the phone to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.
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Lift from the top edge and swing the screen over the bottom edge until you can rest it glass-side down.
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Use a pair of tweezers to carefully peel up the black tape covering the screen connector bracket.
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Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 2.1 mm screws securing the screen connector bracket.
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Use the tip of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the screen flex cable.
No, why the tip? Use the other flat side that doesn't concetrate all the power on one point and Youre doing a propper job.
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Remove the screen.
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Compare your replacement screen with the original. You may need to transfer additional components (such as speaker mesh) to the new part.
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Scrape off remaining adhesive from the perimeter of the frame.
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Follow this guide if you are using custom-cut adhesives.
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If you are using double-sided tape such as Tesa tape, follow this guide.
This step seems to imply that a screen replacement is necessary when replacing the charging port. Is the charging port replaceable without replacing the screen? I understand great care must be taken not to damage the original screen in the procedure, but can it be reinstalled?
Yes, it can be reinstalled.
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Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the eight 4.3 mm screws securing the back cover to the midframe.
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Insert an opening pick into the seam between the midframe and the back cover.
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Slide the opening pick along the bottom edge of the phone to release the plastic clips securing the back cover to the midframe.
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Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the seven screws securing the motherboard bracket:
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Three 2.9 mm-long black screws
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Three 2 mm-long screws
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One 4.1 mm-long screw
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the battery cable.
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Use the tip of a spudger to disconnect the two flex cables connecting the fingerprint sensor and buttons to the motherboard.
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Use the tip of a spudger to disconnect the headphone jack cable from the motherboard.
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Pry up with the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the front-facing camera from the motherboard.
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Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 4.1 mm screws securing the loudspeaker assembly.
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Use the tip of a spudger to disconnect the loudspeaker cable from the motherboard.
Be careful on this step. I ended up popping out part of the clip housing (I may be able to repair once I look at it with a magnifying glass). Maybe the flat side of the spudger would be better.
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Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the three screws securing the motherboard:
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Two 2.9 mm-long black screws
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One 2.1 mm-long screw
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Use the corner of an opening pick to peel up the tape covering the earpiece speaker.
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Insert the tup of a spudger underneath the bottom edge of the motherboard and pry it up enough to grip it with your fingers.
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Use the tip of a spudger to disconnect the rear-facing camera from the motherboard.
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Remove the rear-facing camera.
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To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Answers community for help.
To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Answers community for help.
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