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Introduzione

This guide shows you how to replace the all-in-one Display and MagSafe cable of your Apple Thunderbolt Display.

  1. Lay down the display with screen side up. Since the display is able to be tilted up and down, we found it useful to prop up the screen up with a styrofoam block in between the screen and the base. Place the two suction cups on both sides of the top of the screen and make sure to lock them in place.
    • Lay down the display with screen side up.

    • Since the display is able to be tilted up and down, we found it useful to prop up the screen up with a styrofoam block in between the screen and the base.

    • Place the two suction cups on both sides of the top of the screen and make sure to lock them in place.

    • The glass screen to connected to the rest of the display by small magnets. Lift slowly and the screen will come right off.

    Instead of $14 foam block, I used a full roll of paper towel and two pillows. While it worked, if I ever did this again, I would buy the block of foam. Since you’re removing a power cable, you need to be able thread it through and I think the foam block would make that easier.

    Josh Miller - Replica

    You can also use a single handle, double cup floor lifting suction cup. Just place it in the centre of the screen near the camera and lift slowly.

    Steve A - Replica

    I just used a toilet plunger to remove the screen and it worked like a charm!

    Philip Jacob - Replica

    That’s what I call resourceful—made my day. I hope your repair was successful.

    Tobias Isakeit -

    Great idea, thanks a lot!

    Yvan Sandoz -

    The glass lifted off the magnets quite easily after just using my fingernails. No suction cups or toilet accessories needed.

    Adrian Gropper - Replica

  2. Unscrew the 12 screws around the side edges and the top of the LCD with the TR 10 Screwdriver. Unscrew the 12 screws around the side edges and the top of the LCD with the TR 10 Screwdriver.
    • Unscrew the 12 screws around the side edges and the top of the LCD with the TR 10 Screwdriver.

    The screws marked in orange don't need to be removed, all they do is hold the magnets on the LCD.

    Garrett Mace - Replica

    Yes “orange screws” does not need to be removed.

    You do not need a TR10 screwdriver as written in the text a T10 will suffice (more common and also correctly mentioned in the list of tools).

    A TR10 screwdriver is compatible with the T10, but not the other way around

    Per Lohmann Poulsen - Replica

  3. Slowly lift the LCD out from its placement and tilt it upwards. It can be very helpful to have an extra set of hands to hold the LCD up while you work with the cables underneath.
    • Slowly lift the LCD out from its placement and tilt it upwards.

    • It can be very helpful to have an extra set of hands to hold the LCD up while you work with the cables underneath.

    • There are four wires that connect the LCD to the rest of the components. Make sure not to pull hard and break any of the wires.

    Add the note that it should be lifted from the bottom edge. It is also important not to twist the display by levering up from one corner.

    Charlie Nancarrow - Replica

    Before lifting the monitor, you should be prepared to start collecting screws and have your TR 10 ready.

    Josh Miller - Replica

  4. For the first of the four wires (furthest away from the wire that is held in by a screw), grab onto the connector and pull slowly. For the first of the four wires (furthest away from the wire that is held in by a screw), grab onto the connector and pull slowly. For the first of the four wires (furthest away from the wire that is held in by a screw), grab onto the connector and pull slowly.
    • For the first of the four wires (furthest away from the wire that is held in by a screw), grab onto the connector and pull slowly.

    Note: be sure to pull away but not hard. Wiggle and pull slowly. These are delicate especially due to age.

    Overall this is a moderate repair. Follow step by step and you are good.

    Also, use tape and/or labels to mark which cables go where per the MLB and other parts. Resulting in easier reassembly.

    Ted Teske - Replica

  5. For the next connector, which is right next to the previous wire, there is a piece of tape attached to a metal bar. Flip the metal bar over using the tape as a handle. Next, grab onto the connector and slowly pull it from the socket in the logic board.
    • For the next connector, which is right next to the previous wire, there is a piece of tape attached to a metal bar.

    • Flip the metal bar over using the tape as a handle.

    • Next, grab onto the connector and slowly pull it from the socket in the logic board.

    What is this connector for?

    pdspanagel - Replica

    I imagine this connector is going to be for display data (i.e. LCD data).

    Scott Havard - Replica

    I pretty much mangled this cable trying to put it back into the slot. Is this something I can order a replacement for?

    Ryan Stryker - Replica

    I also screwed up this wire.

    erybovic - Replica

    I also screwed up this wire. Wondering what the wire name is.

    erybovic - Replica

    Thunderbolt Display 27" LVDS Cable

    Klaus Finke - Replica

    As other’s have said, this cable is super delicate.

    When you replace it, make sure that the small metal handle it firmly reattached to the other side of the port. I thought I’d got it right first time, but had no video signal (thunderbolt detected display, and power was fed to the Macbook Pro).

    I had to reinsert this one again, and one in, firmly press the connector home, then latch the handle over the other side. I also gave it a test pull to ensure it was secure. Then all was well!

    Steve A - Replica

  6. For the connector on the other side of the logic board, grab the connector from underneath and carefully pull it from the board. For the connector on the other side of the logic board, grab the connector from underneath and carefully pull it from the board. For the connector on the other side of the logic board, grab the connector from underneath and carefully pull it from the board.
    • For the connector on the other side of the logic board, grab the connector from underneath and carefully pull it from the board.

    To remove this connector, you squeeze the lower tab to unclasp it, and pull it sideways away from the board

    Brad Bell - Replica

    This cable was also taped for me, so remove the tape first

    danmcfalls - Replica

  7. For the last wire connecting to the LCD, use your TR 10 Screwdriver to remove the screw.
    • For the last wire connecting to the LCD, use your TR 10 Screwdriver to remove the screw.

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  9. The LCD has now been fully disconnected from the casing and can be repaired/replaced! The LCD has now been fully disconnected from the casing and can be repaired/replaced!
    • The LCD has now been fully disconnected from the casing and can be repaired/replaced!

  10. You should now see the EMI filter right in the middle of the device (although held in by a few other components). Follow the wires coming out of the bottom of the Power adapter off to the left.
    • You should now see the EMI filter right in the middle of the device (although held in by a few other components).

    • Follow the wires coming out of the bottom of the Power adapter off to the left.

    • Take the tweezers and remove the piece of tape holding the wires to the casing.

    • There is only one connector that needs to be taken out (even though there are two right next to each other!).

    • Grab the connector from the bottom and pull it carefully from its corresponding socket.

    Note: The Brown/Black pair highlighted in the picture is for the AC connector. For the MagSafe power, you want to disconnect the double-black wire connection. Another way to distinguish if colors differ is that the MagSafe connection has a much larger connector on it.

    Isaac - Replica

  11. Next, remove the piece of electrical tape that is holding wires into the casing connecting to the power adapter. Next, remove the piece of electrical tape that is holding wires into the casing connecting to the power adapter.
    • Next, remove the piece of electrical tape that is holding wires into the casing connecting to the power adapter.

  12. The surrounding speaker component (the black box) around the power inlet needs to be removed. Use the TR 10 screwdriver to remove the four screws. Disconnect the speaker from behind the logic board by carefully pulling at the plastic end of the cable.
    • The surrounding speaker component (the black box) around the power inlet needs to be removed.

    • Use the TR 10 screwdriver to remove the four screws.

    • Disconnect the speaker from behind the logic board by carefully pulling at the plastic end of the cable.

    • Remove the speaker.

  13. Now that the middle speaker is out of the way, the EMI filter is easily accessible. Using tweezers, remove the silver tape that is at the top of the filter.
    • Now that the middle speaker is out of the way, the EMI filter is easily accessible.

    • Using tweezers, remove the silver tape that is at the top of the filter.

    I can’t help but notice that this assembly that is called an EMI (Electromagnetic Interference) Filter is in the exact position that my monitor has been displaying a band of disrupted color bands once it heats up. I am changing the Thunderbolt cable assembly in hopes that is fixes the problem. If it doesn’t then I will make changing the Filter my next quest. It is also noteworthy that the Filter is grounded to the case by the metal tape which must be peeled back for this procedure. Hmmm.

    whiteshephard - Replica

  14. The EMI filter is connected by three screws. Use the T10 screwdriver to remove them. The screw that holds in both the filter and a wire that is connected to it is a different size and should be kept identifiable from the other two screws. The green and yellow wire that was held in by the different screw is tucked behind another component. To get it out, squeeze it behind the black wire and the filter will be able to be removed from the casing.
    • The EMI filter is connected by three screws. Use the T10 screwdriver to remove them.

    • The screw that holds in both the filter and a wire that is connected to it is a different size and should be kept identifiable from the other two screws.

    • The green and yellow wire that was held in by the different screw is tucked behind another component. To get it out, squeeze it behind the black wire and the filter will be able to be removed from the casing.

    Nothing about the power cable itself here. That has to be unplugged first, or when you get to this point, you’ll have to carefully unplug the main power cable from the back of the AC adapter you just removed in Step 13, and feed it through the hole in the back of the case.

    EARL W REYNOLDS JR - Replica

  15. Remove the two T10 screws from the metal plate holding the cable in place. Remove the metal plate.
    • Remove the two T10 screws from the metal plate holding the cable in place.

    • Remove the metal plate.

  16. Carefully remove three cable connectors from the logic board by walking them out while holding them at the plastic end. From top to bottom these are: Fan control cable
    • Carefully remove three cable connectors from the logic board by walking them out while holding them at the plastic end.

    • From top to bottom these are:

    • Fan control cable

    • Temperature sensor cable

    • Fan power cable

    • In some cases there are only the top and bottom cables.

    I dont see any Temp sensor cable, just the top and bottom ones

    asebastianjo - Replica

    Same Here. Could that be why it’s been cutting out all the time?

    Alan McClenaghan - Replica

    I opened up my TB Display because it kept cutting out. I intended to replace the MagSafe/TB cable (as suggested on several threads) but now I see there is no Temperature Sensor Cable (middle) and the Fan Control Cable (Top) just leads to an end that is tapped next to the fan. Could this be an issue in the display intermittently going black and the desktop switching back to the MacBook?

    Alan McClenaghan - Replica

    According to the Fan Replacement page there are only 2 cables.

    Alan McClenaghan - Replica

    No need to undo these cables. Proceed to next step and just flip on edge the logic board to get to the tb cable.

    Jerod Moore - Replica

  17. Remove the seven Torx T10 screws from the logic board.
    • Remove the seven Torx T10 screws from the logic board.

  18. Now you are able to reach behind the logic board to disconnect the cable running to the power board. The connector has a small tab on the back that needs to be pressed for the connector to be pulled out.
    • Now you are able to reach behind the logic board to disconnect the cable running to the power board.

    • The connector has a small tab on the back that needs to be pressed for the connector to be pulled out.

  19. Carefully flip the logic board to the left using the remaining cables as a hinge to get access to the display port. Remove the two Torx T6 screws from the metal plate securing the display port connector. Remove the metal plate.
    • Carefully flip the logic board to the left using the remaining cables as a hinge to get access to the display port.

    • Remove the two Torx T6 screws from the metal plate securing the display port connector.

    • Remove the metal plate.

    i removed both the top and bottom metal plates in order to fit a 3rd party thunderbolt cable

    asebastianjo - Replica

  20. Unplug the Thunderbolt cable from the logic board. Thread the remaining Thunderbolt & MagSafe cable through the cutout in the rear case.
    • Unplug the Thunderbolt cable from the logic board.

    • Thread the remaining Thunderbolt & MagSafe cable through the cutout in the rear case.

    Nothing here about the two pieces of black fabric tape you have to undo to release the Thunderbolt and Magsafe cables; also see Isaac’s comment on Step 9 about having to unplug the Magsafe adapter. You can wait until this step to do that, but it still has to be done to remove the Magsafe cable.

    Also, you have to pull the cable up through, you can’t feed it down through the hole.

    EARL W REYNOLDS JR - Replica

Conclusione

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Altre 43 persone hanno completato questa guida.

Tobias Isakeit

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Unbelievable amount of very detailed and careful work to replace a Thunderbolt cable which is attached on the inside to a standard Thunderbolt socket! Why not just have the socket on the back of the unit?????

Lewis Naylor - Replica

You can actually use the socket on the back of the unit as an input if your octopus cable is dying, as long as you are connecting directly to a Thunderbolt 1 or 2 Mac. If you are using the Thunderbolt-3-to-Thunderbolt-2 adapter, you have to use the built-in cable.

Tim -

In reply to Tim - This is not true - I am running a 2018 Mac Mini using the Thunderbolt 3 to Thunderbolt 2 adaptor and a standard Thunderbolt 2 cable connected to the external thunderbolt connector on the Thunderbolt Display - It works fine.

Giles Norton -

Nice one Tim! Saves me opening the screen! Thanks!

Marc Dubresson - Replica

Me too! I was just about to start dismantling my display when I noticed this tip - I’d even bought some suction cups. Thanks Tim!

Nigel Street -

Oh, my, yes! What a useful comment. It makes sense that this would work but I would not have thought of it. @timgostony Thank you very much indeed!!!!!

David Kim -

At the top of this guide for the Apple Thunderbolt Display Thunderbolt & MagSafe Cable Replacement, it says that there are “No Parts Required” I beg to differ. I need this guide because I need to Replace my Apple Thunderbolt Display Thunderbolt & MagSafe Cable because the connector at the computer end is sketchy and if touched causes the image to glitch and go out. I know its the cable because this issue is not present with any other display or projector I plug into the same port on my computer. So, I ask, do you have a reliable source for an Apple Thunderbolt Display Thunderbolt & MagSafe Replacement Cable so I can use this guide and fix my monitor once and for all?

Stephen LeMay - Replica

Answered my own question. http://a.co/d/bOlf4s0

Stephen LeMay -

Hi Stephen, You’re right, the wording is somewhat confusing. Of course you need a replacement part to replace something ;) This has been forwarded and we’ll hopefully change it soon to provide proper information. Thanks for the parts link; i’ll put this into the “parts” section for the time being.

Tobias Isakeit -

Hello, I desperately need help! I have followed the step by step instructions here & everything went perfectly! But now it won't turn on at all??? I have checked that I have plugged in every cable but still no response? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

Nicholas hilton - Replica

Nicholas, any luck with fixing your display? Same problem here. Replaced the all-in-one cable without incident. Reassembled, and now it won’t power on using different:

• macs

• plugged and unplugged

• from on already and starting up

• outlets

• power cords

Help.

About to start the process over, suspecting to find a disconnected cable.

Good luck, and thanks for any input.

 Chris Leeds

Independent Apple Specialist

Well Connected Life

Chris Leeds -

Also experience some hickups with different cables. No picture but charging, not charging but picture, slow recognition of display (~8 sec). There are different cables for the different display (size and year). Some cables may also be used and malfunctioning. Maybe connect to the seller and request a replacement to check.

Tobias Isakeit -

Hi Chris, I never had any luck with my repair. I came back to this forum hoping someone had replied with a solution, did you happen to get yours working at all? I have also tried all of what you stated with no success. Mine was working fine originally but the connection on the thunderbolt cable was intermittent so I decided to replace it but was unsuccessful despite everything being done perfectly. I also switched back to the original cable but still no response at all. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

Nicholas hilton -

I use 2 thunderbolt displays with Mac Mini, daisy chaining the second one from the first display. I have been using these displays since 2011 and last month in a gap of 15 days both the cables started exhibiting unreliable connectivity. I ordered a pair of new cables and eventually after a month of waiting, I finally got them yesterday.

Opened display #1 using this guide (which is a life saver) and that roughly took me over an hour to tear it down. I additionally opened out each of the 3 speakers and brushed off the 8 years of dust accumulated on them. Blow cleaned the fan which had tons of dust caught inside.

This guide is quite well drafted with each step very illustratively put together. Not just my display is back in action, but also the audio volume of the display has doubled up :) I also cleaned off the soot developed behind the front glass and now its like a entire refreshed display.

Kudos to the author for this article!

Will work on the display #2 sometime soon.

Akash Khairate - Replica

Great guide, thanks for thorough step by step teardown. I replaced both the cable assembly and the glass. I didn’t have the nice foam block to prop up the display from the work surface and provide space between the stand and the housing, but found that a rolled up hand towel worked well. If you’re doing the job yourself, find something to hold open the panel while you disconnect cables. There’s plenty of safe areas to do this without crushing or damaging internals. Similar to a automobile hood. Propping it open close to center provides the best balance. I used a large plastic bottle, it’s what I had available?!? You’re gonna need both hands for the job. And, though suction cups would have been nice, the magnets are weak enough that, working from the bottom, I found the glass separates easily without stressing the glass.

anonymous 8275 - Replica

Garmin or other GPS suction mounts work great for lifting the face.

Thanks for the information. Mine died today and I have the cable so I get to have some mechanical fun.

rashby2 - Replica

Hi Tim, can you give me a few more details on this?

“You can actually use the socket on the back of the unit as an input if your octopus cable is dying, as long as you are connecting directly to a Thunderbolt 1 or 2 Mac. If you are using the Thunderbolt-3-to-Thunderbolt-2 adapter, you have to use the built-in cable.”

How and in which cases can I replace the cable without opening the screen?

v_roy - Replica

What more do you need to know @v_roy? Just buy a Thunderbolt to Thunderbolt cable (Apple sell them in 0.5m or 2.0m lengths). Then plug one into the rear of the display (there’s just one TB socket). Then plug the other end into your Mac, and voila! No need to dismantle the display at all.

Nigel Street -

Hi Tim, are you sure about using “Thunderbolt-3-to-Thunderbolt-2 adapter” with an external thunderbolt cable?

andremacola - Replica

Hi andremacola! I was thinking the same and wondering if you had made any progress with this? I don’t understand why it would be different to use a “Thunderbolt-3-to-Thunderbolt-2 adapter”? I’m hoping I can use an external thunderbolt cable to connect to my adapter and MacMini. My display keeps blacking out randomly and it’s driving me crazy! And I can no way afford that new Apple display!

Paul Thomas -

Thanks for steps, detailed and made me realize this is a job for an experienced tech or someone who has some hands on knowledge. I may try a few of the steps and see where it leads me. Where would someone buy the parts for this project.

louis - Replica

Any recommended brand for the replacement cable?

And tips on checking if it’s the cable or the port on my 2013 Macbook Air?

James Bowkett - Replica

I’m currently using my 27inch Apple Thunderbolt Display with a 2014 MBP which is obviously how it was meant to be. I expect to upgrade my laptop to a new model in the next year and dreading having to deal with tons of dongles. Has anyone provided, looked at possibly modifying this model so that it has a USB-C connector?

Carlos Pacheco - Replica

Hi, thx fot the manual!

The resolution of the display is no longer scalable. only a 1200* resolution is possible. With the new and old cable this is now. Everything is plugged in like in the manual.

Marvin Bätzel - Replica

I have been having problems after plugging in a cheap LED light to one of the USB ports in the back of my Thunderbolt Display. I just tried connecting the thunderbolt port to a thunderbolt 2 to 3 converter and then my 2019 MacBook Pro. The Thunderbolt Display screen came on fine but the brightness controls and built in camera were unavailable. Therefore I need to do this work or get a new display or find a tech to do it because I want to keep using the camera and brightness adjustments.

David Fligor - Replica

Overall, these instructions were great! I appreciated the comments, as I did have to disconnect the OTHER connector rather than the one highlighted in step 9. I would have never done this job on my own, but these instructions made it quite do-able. thank you!

Harry Dennis - Replica

Hi ifixit.com,

I just fixed my Apple Thunderbolt Display Monitor, today! Thank you so much for the steps to changing my thunderbolt cable! I also purchased the tool kit from your website.

Thank you so much!

MoNique H.

Monique Holland - Replica

Replaced the cable meticulously thanks to these great instructions. Still no power to mag safe, no power to USB and other ports. Connecting directly via Thunderbolt did not work. Tried multiple Mac computers. AC power cable does have power. What troubleshooting steps are next? Should I replace the power supply board? The logic board? I have a lot of good years in this investment, would like to get a few more. Thank you.

Marty Bird - Replica

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