1999-2002 Suzuki SV650 Spark Plugs Replacement (1999, 2000, 2001, 2002)

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Passo 1

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Remove the radiator cap security screw with a Phillips #1 screw driver by turning it counter-clockwise.
Remove the radiator cap by pressing down on it and turning it counter-clockwise until it can be lifted off the radiator.
If your engine has been running recently, be very careful. The system may be pressurized and hot which will cause coolant to flow out through the radiator filler hole when the cap is removed.

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Passo 2

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Locate the 10 mm hex coolant drain plug. It is on the right engine cover, just below the coolant outlet.
Turn the coolant drain plug counter-clockwise with a 10 mm socket wrench or box end wrench until it can be turned freely by hand.
Place a container under the drain plug to catch the coolant when it streams out of the coolant drain hole.
Coolant capacity is 1.7L, ensure your container can accommodate this.
If you are not using a pan style container, it is recommended that you use a funnel to help prevent spills.

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Passo 3

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Finish removing the drain plug by hand and allow the coolant to drain into the container.
Once the draining coolant has slowed to a drip, stand the bike up vertically to allow the last of it to drain.

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Passo 4

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Put the coolant drain plug back in its hole and turn it clockwise with a socket wrench or box end wrench until it is snug.
Do not over-tighten the drain plug or you risk stripping the threads. Suzuki rates the drain plug torque at 9.5 lb-ft (13 N-m).
Place the radiator cap back over the filler hole and turn it clockwise until is snug.
Placing the radiator cap back on the radiator will prevent debris from entering the radiator while working on the bike.

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Passo 5 Sella

Se hai delle carene sotto la sella, rimuovile svitando le viti a testa cava esagonale da 4 mm che le reggono. Utilizza una chiave a brugola da 4 mm per ruotare le viti in senso antiorario fino a quando non si staccano.
Una volta tolti i pannelli, rimuovere le viti a brugola da 4 mm su entrambi i lati della sella. Utilizza la chiave a brugola da 4 mm per ruotare le viti in senso antiorario fino a quando non si staccano.
Il bullone nella foto non è quello di serie.
Solleva la parte anteriore del sedile, quindi staccalo dal telaio.

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Passo 6 Serbatoio

Svita le due viti a cava esagonale da 4 mm dei supporti del serbatoio anteriore in senso antiorario con una chiave a brugola fino a quando non escono.
I bulloni mostrati in figura non sono originali.
Svita i due bulloni esagonali da 12 mm alla base della cerniera del serbatoio in senso antiorario con una chiave a bussola o una chiave a cricchetto fino a quando non escono.

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Passo 7

Scollega il connettore del sensore livello carburante posizionato vicino alla base della cerniera del serbatoio. È un connettore a tre fili e un lato del filo è rintracciabile sul lato inferiore del serbatoio.
Solleva con attenzione la parte anteriore del serbatoio per accedere ai tubi flessibili collegati al serbatoio.
Non sollevare troppo il serbatoio, altrimenti rischi di danneggiare le tubazioni del carburante e le linee di aspirazione e rischi anche di spandere il carburante.
Ci sono piccoli inserti metallici che vanno nei supporti anteriori del serbatoio. Assicurati che questi non cadano e non si perdano durante il lavoro al serbatoio.

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Passo 8

Individua il rubinetto sul lato inferiore sinistro del serbatoio. Ha 2 raccordi cilindrici per tubi flessibili attaccati ad esso e si trova accanto al sensore di livello del carburante.
Scollega dal suo raccordo il tubo di aspirazione del rubinetto.
Si consiglia di rimuovere sempre prima questo tubo per ridurre la quantità di carburante fuoriuscita.
Scollega il tubo del carburante dal suo raccordo sul rubinetto.
Scollega il tubo di sfiato del serbatoio dalla base del serbatoio stesso.

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Passo 9

Stacca con cautela il serbatoio dal telaio della moto, assicurandoti che il filo del sensore di livello carburante non rimanga impigliato nel telaio.
Quando metti da parte il serbatoio, fai attenzione ai raccordi dei tubi flessibili del rubinetto, in particolare al raccordo di aspirazione sul fondo. Questi raccordi possono essere facilmente rotti dal peso del serbatoio ed è costoso sostituirli.

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Passo 10

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Remove the 10 mm hex radiator mounting bolts, on the top left side of the radiator, the top right side of the radiator and the bottom right side of the radiator.
The top left and bottom right bolts can be removed with a socket wrench or box end wrench. The top right bolt, however, should be removed with a box end wrench because the radiator cap and neck are in the way.

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Passo 11

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Loosen the hose clamp attached to the right side radiator oulet by turning the bolt counter-clockwise with a Phillips #1 screwdriver, a 6 mm socket wrench or a 6 mm box end wrench.
Slide the hose clamp down the radiator hose, away from the radiator outlet.
Carefully pull the radiator hose off the radiator outlet. Slightly twisting the hose left and right to "walk" the hose off the outlet may help if it is stuck.

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Passo 12

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Loosen the hose clamp attached to the left side radiator inlet by turning the bolt counter-clockwise with a Phillips #1 screwdriver, a 6 mm socket wrench or a 6 mm box end wrench.
Carefully pull the radiator hose off the radiator inlet. Slightly twisting the hose left and right to "walk" the hose off the inlet may help if it is stuck.

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Passo 13

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Unbend the wire holder on the inside of the front right of the frame to get slack in the wires attached to the radiator.
Carefully move the radiator to the right side of the bike, out of the way of the cylinder head.
The radiator is not completely disconnected from the bike, there are still wires connected to the thermo-switch and fan. Be sure that you do not put too much tension on these wires or you risk ripping them out of their sockets.

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Passo 14

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Remove the spark plug cap from cylinder 1 by grabbing the plug cap boot and pulling straight out.
Do not remove the cap by pulling on the wires, you risk ripping the wire out of the cap.
Use a 5/8" spark plug driver, a socket extension and a socket wrench to remove the spark plug. Press the spark plug driver firmly onto the spark plug until you feel it "grab" the plug and turn it counter-clockwise until you can pull it out of the cylinder head.
Be careful not to drop anything down the spark plug hole and into the cylinder! If something falls into the cylinder you will have to do a complete cylinder tear down to remove what ever was dropped!

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Passo 15

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Be sure to check the electrode gap of your spark plug, even if the plug has been advertised as pre-gapped. An improper gap can stress the ignition system and cause misfires. Use a feeler gauge to check that the gap is between .028" and .031" or .7 mm and .8 mm. If the gap is out of spec, carefully bend the ground tab, being sure to not scar the electrode or ground tab.
Insert the new spark plug into the spark plug driver. Press it in firmly so that the rubber insert grips the plug and doesn't allow it to fall out when turned upside down.
Place the spark plug into the spark plug hole and turn it clockwise until you feel the gasket seat. Give the wrench approximately 1/4 to 1/2 a turn clockwise from the seated position to snug up the spark plug.
If you have a torque wrench available, Suzuki's torque spec for the spark plug is 8 lb-ft or 11 N-m.
Place the spark plug cap on the new spark plug. Press the cap on firmly until you feel it fully seat.

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Passo 16

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Move the radiator back to its original position.
Wipe dirt and debris off the radiator inlet and outlet with a clean rag.
Insert the 10 mm hex radiator mounting bolts into the two top mounting points. Screw these bolts in a few turns by hand, but leave them loose enough to allow the radiator to rotate back and forth.

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Passo 17

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Slide the left radiator hose back onto the radiator inlet.
Move the hose clamp back over the hose/radiator inlet and turn the clamp bolt clockwise, with a 6 mm socket, 6 mm box end wrench or Phillips #1 screwdriver, until the hose clamp is snug.

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Passo 18

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Slide the right radiator hose back onto the radiator outlet.
Move the hose clamp back over the hose/radiator outlet and turn the clamp bolt clockwise, with a 6 mm socket, 6 mm box end wrench or Phillips #1 screwdriver, until the hose clamp is snug.

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Passo 19

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Insert the bottom right radiator mounting bolt and turn it clockwise by hand a few turns.
Tighten the three radiator mounting bolts by turning them clockwise with a 10mm socket wrench or box end wrench until they are snug.
Re-wrap the wires in the wire holder to prevent them from shifting while riding.

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Passo 20

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Remove the spark plug cap from cylinder 2. Remember to not pull it by its wire!
Use a 5/8" spark plug driver, a socket extension and a socket wrench to remove the spark plug. Press the spark plug driver firmly onto the spark plug until you feel it "grab" the plug and turn it counter-clockwise until you can pull it out of the cylinder head.
Don't forget to be cautious about not dropping things down the cylinder hole!

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Passo 21

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Check and adjust the new spark plug's gap as described in step 15.
Put the new spark plug in the spark plug driver and insert it into the spark plug hole.
Turn the spark plug clockwise until the spark plug gasket seats. Turn the spark plug 1/4 to 1/2 a turn clockwise from the seated position.
See step 15 for torque specs if you are using a torque wrench.
Firmly press the spark plug cap onto the new spark plug until you feel it fully seat.

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Passo 22

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Gently set the tank back into place.
Rotate the tank forward and re-attach the tank breather hose.
Route the fuel level sensor wire between the frame and underneath the tank hinge, being sure that it is not tangling or interfering with any other wires or hoses. Reconnect the fuel level sensor.

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Passo 23

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Lift the front of the tank slightly.
Re-attach the fuel hose.
Re-attach the vacuum hose.
Gently lower the tank until it rests on the frame.
Watch the fuel and vacuum hoses as you lower the tank and make sure they do not pinch or kink. If flow is obstructed in either of the hoses, the engine will not run properly.

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Passo 24

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Align the bolt holes of the tank hinge base.
Place the hinge base bolts into their holes and turn them clockwise by hand a few turns. Do not tighten them yet.
Align the the front mounting bolt holes and place the front mounting bolts into their respective holes. Turn the bolts clockwise by hand a few turns.
Don't forget to put the small metal inserts back into the front mounting holes if you removed them earlier.
Tighten the four tank mounting bolts with a 10mm socket wrench or box end wrench until snug.

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Passo 25

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Slide the seat into place, back end first. Make sure the plastic hooks on the back of the seat slide under the metal bar in the sub-frame.
Insert the seat bolts and turn them clockwise until they are snug.
If you have frame covers, reposition them into their appropriate spots, insert their bolts and turn the bolts clockwise until they are snug.

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Passo 26

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Remove the radiator cap again and insert a funnel into the radiator filler hole.
Pour approximately 1.7 quarts of coolant into the radiator or fill until you can see coolant near the filler neck. Use one hand to stabilize the funnel to prevent spills.
Towards the end of refilling the cooling system, take short breaks in filling to allow air bubbles to work their way out of the system. You can turn the engine on for a couple seconds to help pull coolant through the system.

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Passo 27

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Remove the funnel and place the radiator cap back over the radiator filler hole. Press down on the cap and turn it clockwise until it is snug.
Insert and turn the radiator cap security screw clockwise until it is snug.
Start the bike, look for excessive vibration and listen for any irregular noises such as ticking or knocking that were not previously present. If something is not right, shut the bike off quickly to prevent potential damage.
Loud ticking indicates that a spark plug may be too loose or that its threads are damaged. Try tightening the plug a little more. If that does not fix the ticking, inspect the engine's and spark plug's threads for damage.
Knocking and/or excessive vibration likely indicates that a cylinder is not firing properly. Identify the cylinder that is not firing and first double check that the spark plug cap is properly installed and not damaged. If the cap is ok, check the spark plug. Recheck the gap of the spark plug and adjust as necessary. If the engine still knocks, you will want to double check that you have the correct heat spark plugs or that you did not get a defective spark plug.