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  1. We'll be working on my old Mercedes today, changing the Oil and Filter Pop the bonnet, or in USA "pop the hood", in RHD cars, the catch is on the left side next to the door It's two-hands to open the actual bonnet as there are 2 ajar catches on this model - one on either side near the sides of the front of the bonnet/hood
    • We'll be working on my old Mercedes today, changing the Oil and Filter

    • Pop the bonnet, or in USA "pop the hood", in RHD cars, the catch is on the left side next to the door

    • It's two-hands to open the actual bonnet as there are 2 ajar catches on this model - one on either side near the sides of the front of the bonnet/hood

  2. I put my hydraulic jack in the centre of the front of the sub-frame I put the jack stands under the frame/unibody box sections I use cardboard instead of a creeper - more leverage, and easy clean up
    • I put my hydraulic jack in the centre of the front of the sub-frame

    • I put the jack stands under the frame/unibody box sections

    • I use cardboard instead of a creeper - more leverage, and easy clean up

  3. I used a 14mm hex or "Allen" key It appears some of the previous oil-changers over the last 40 years did not have the correct tool as there are vise-grip marks on the bolt It appears some of the previous oil-changers over the last 40 years did not have the correct tool as there are vise-grip marks on the bolt
    • I used a 14mm hex or "Allen" key

    • It appears some of the previous oil-changers over the last 40 years did not have the correct tool as there are vise-grip marks on the bolt

    • See the oil flow

  4. Kits di riparazione iPhone X

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    Kits di riparazione iPhone X

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  5. Check your new filter etc, I used Hengst E117H D07, but last time I used Mann H720X, both kits came with new o-rings and copper crush-washers The oil filter is a cartridge-in-housing type located on the left-side of the engine block I only had room for a wrench/spanner and had to work it a bit before loosening it with my fingers
    • Check your new filter etc, I used Hengst E117H D07, but last time I used Mann H720X, both kits came with new o-rings and copper crush-washers

    • The oil filter is a cartridge-in-housing type located on the left-side of the engine block

    • I only had room for a wrench/spanner and had to work it a bit before loosening it with my fingers

  6. Before removing the oil filter housing fully, move your catch pan under the area to catch the mess Clean around the housing mounting plate area with a clean-ish rag, I use 2 grades of rag, the super-oily one first to pick up the bulk of the oil, then a cleaner rag after I used a small pick to pull out the old o-ring - also check you don't misplace the washer on the long bolt
    • Before removing the oil filter housing fully, move your catch pan under the area to catch the mess

    • Clean around the housing mounting plate area with a clean-ish rag, I use 2 grades of rag, the super-oily one first to pick up the bulk of the oil, then a cleaner rag after

    • I used a small pick to pull out the old o-ring - also check you don't misplace the washer on the long bolt

  7. Clean out the filter housing with your rags etc, then install a new o-ring if your kit came with one
    • Clean out the filter housing with your rags etc, then install a new o-ring if your kit came with one

    • Oil the new o-ring for re-installation

    • Place the new filter cartridge in the housing and insert the bolt with washer on it

    • Hold the bolt in and thread your hand down next to the block, lucky these old cars have heaps of space to work/see

    • Tighten the bolt down, but don't over-tighten as it's only a cast-metal housing

  8. Tighten your drain bolt and clean the area around the bolt with a rag Check the area for leaks after filling
    • Tighten your drain bolt and clean the area around the bolt with a rag

    • Check the area for leaks after filling

    • As you can see, my old filter was a Mann H720

  9. Lift the car up from that front sub-frame lifting area and remove your jack-stands Then gently lower the car so it's level for filling
    • Lift the car up from that front sub-frame lifting area and remove your jack-stands

    • Then gently lower the car so it's level for filling

  10. I usually clean around the Oil fill cap with a rag The dip-stick on this engine is next to the spark-plug wires I used a stubby big-mouth funnel
    • I usually clean around the Oil fill cap with a rag

    • The dip-stick on this engine is next to the spark-plug wires

    • I used a stubby big-mouth funnel

    • I used 20W-50 for this old car, it needed about 5.5L or so

Conclusione

Fresh oil and filter installed :)

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Gaspard Leon

Membro da: 24/04/2010

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